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Comments
Charles
Also, has anyone had any problems with their 2004 Yukon's.
I look forward to reading the responses from fellow Yukon owners.
I previously owned a 2001 Chevy Blazer with onstar and then bought a Mercedes E320 (2003) which came with Mercedes TeleAid system. Its supposed to be a competitor of onstar. Yesterday I bought a 2004 Suburban again with onstar. Let me tell you, comparing the systems Onstar is hands down a superior system. I will never buy another Mercedes, mostly because I hate their TeleAid system. First, it takes forever to speak with someone, second, they charge you per minute while you are on hold!!! I think the onstar system is great, and I never have to wait to talk to an advisor. Just my opinion...
Plus Stabilitrak gives you a little bit of an extra safety margin as far as traction control is concerned while driving on wet pavement (e.g. when it's raining) vs. that when enabling Auto 4WD on the Autotrac-enabled GM 4wd vehicles.
If you do a lot of driving in very low traction situations, then a vehicle equipped with Autotrac and the locking rear axle would probably be the best choice. Especially, if the terrain causes one wheel on each axle to have little or no traction.
If all your driving is on the highway a Stabilitrak equipped vehicle is probably the best choice.
I have found that it is virtually impossible to place the front passenger mat in a position that will prevent passengers from pulling them off of their carpet anchors. Even worse, the second row mat interferes with that seat row's sliding mechanism. The result is that when anyone enters the third row of seats, the second row floor mat is torn away from it's mount on the right side.
Any suggestions?
At that time (before the spin), I had 2 wheel drive switch selected. I wonder if it would have been different had I selected Autotrac or 4-hi on that slick pavement.
The damage was minimum, just the plactic center piece on the rear bumber came off. No other scratch. After the spin, I selected 4x4 switch and drove carefully to the destination.
I am sure stabilitrac would have corrected the skid, but I opted for Z71 for it's agressive looks and bigger wheels. However, I am very happy with the truck and will be more careful on the icy conditions from now on. I perhaps overestimated the ability of Z71 burb to handle slippery conditions.
Any recommendations on where to get that center plastic cover on the rear bumber for a '03 Z71? A dealer is the last resort.
Jim
http://www.foxweatherboots.com/
sandra
I have a neighbor with a 2001 3/4 ton purchased new and it has been back to the dealer 13 times with 33k miles on it. He has had LOTS of little issues: window motor, autoride sensor, didn't start...... I have also read of oil consumption issues with the 8.1L engine and vibration with the Allison transmission.
I also have a another neighbor with a 2001 1/2 ton LT from the Janesville plant. He has 44k miles and has NOT had "one" issue. He doesn't even do maintanance.
I am not trying to start a debate........just looking for some good first hand experience from owners who can comment on their Suburban. Can anyone shed some first hand experience on any differences in quality or reliability between these production facilities if you own one? If your truck's VIN# starts with a "1" it is American and on your driver door there will be a sticker of either the state of Wisconsin or Texas differentiating the two plants. If your VIN# starts with "3" it is Mexican.
sandra
As far as Suburban vs. Denali XL--think of the Denali as a small step below the Escalade but a bit above the 'burb (and Yukon XL--more or less the spitting image of the 'burb) as far as luxury refinements and minor body appearance are concerned. Given all this...if you're willing to spend the extra $5K or so that the DXL costs vs. the 'burb, then by all means go for the DXL.
The primary differences between the 'burb/Yukon XL and the DXL can be summed up like so--some of the stuff that can only be added as factory-installed options on the 'burb come standard on the DXL (Autoride and Stabilitrak/AWD are standard on the DXL, but add-ons on the 'burb/YXL); also, DXL has the 6-liter engine, whereas the 1500 'burb/YXL doesn't offer it even as an option. There are some cosmetic differences between the two but that's your call if you wish to consider it as a purchasing factor.
As far as the ride--you can't go wrong with the Stabilitrak/Autoride combo, especially in the conditions you describe.
2nd-row captain's chairs are a $490 MSRP option but nice since they are heated (seats only--front seats have warmers in both seat and seatback); you may want to consider the rear-seat DVD entertainment option, although if you need the TV/VCR capability you'll need to do that aftermarket.
For many people, the 'burb/YXL is the better buy since just about almost everything (notwithstanding exterior/interior cosmetic differences) that comes standard/optional on the DXL can also be had on the 'burb/YXL except (at least for now) the navigation system; OTOH--if you want to impress fellow GM full-size (and/or other) SUV owners as to which one is the best, period, but can't afford an Escalade...the DXL is the way to go.
FWIW--I currently own an '03 Yukon XL; although it does the job, I regret not going all out (short of getting an Escalade--I'm not that rich) and getting the Denali XL last year. With the SUV tax break at my disposal, I was able to make up for my previous lack of judgment and bought an '04 DXL--black exterior/gray interior, with every available factory-installed option (2nd-row captain's chairs, moonroof, rear-seat DVD, navigation) except for the engine block heater (I don't need it where I live).
HTH in whatever purchase decision you make; if it were up to me, I'd go for the Denali XL!
I wonder if the Fox mats are available for the rear cargo area, too. I didn't notice any mention of that in that web site's pricing lists.
I also wonder how well they work with the Suburban's sliding second seat mechanism (alluding to my earlier note regarding my Catch All's). Or will I still need to do something similar to lobsenza's innovative sheet metal fix for that issue!
sandra
I have had two Subs, one 1500 and one 2500 that both came from Mexico. They are just as good as the ones built in US. Really would not give it a second thought.
Mine does have 'piston slap' when cold. I can not blame it on Mexico because the engines are assembled in NY.
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Please comment on ease of driving a C2500 4X4 with the 8100 engine for daily driving in the city if you have one. I know mileage is about 10mpg vs. maybe 14mpg for the C1500 with the 5.3. For us it equates to about $400 more per year to drive the C2500. No biggy.
I do not think that Fox makes a floor mat for the rear cargo area. However, there are several other companies that do make a mat for the rear area. This website has a pretty good selection of mats. http://www.cabelas.com
*Front inner axle seal replaced - Leaking oil.
*Wiper/turn signal switch replaced - Wiper delay not working correctly.
*Oxygen sensor replaced - Failed
*Fuel tank module replaced - Leaking gasoline.
*Rear axle shaft seal replaced - Leaking oil.
*Outside rear view mirror replaced. Heating element failed.
I do not think that the failure of these parts had anything to do with where my vehicle was assembled.
The parts that failed were parts of components that were built elsewhere and placed on the vehicle at the assembly plant.
The parts would have failed regardless of which assembly plant used the components. Unfortunately, for me, they were shipped to Janesville and used on my vehicle.
As far as accommodating the Suburban sliding second row seat, he will have to cut an area out of the rear passenger floor mat lip to allow the sliding mechanism to clear it. However, this is standard operating procedure apparently, so he wasn't phased a bit by my request! At any rate, he was very responsive and helpful.
Anyway, I have ordered a complete set for the '00 Suburban, and look forward to trying them out! If I like them well enough, I might order another set for my '02 Tahoe as well!
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Clunking Noise Under Hood and can be felt in the Steering Wheel (Lubricate Intermediate Steering Shaft Assembly)
2002-2004 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT
2003-2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV
1999-2004 Chevrolet Silverado
2000-2004 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe
2002-2004 Chevrolet Avalanche
1999-2004 GMC Sierra
2000-2004 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL
2003-2004 HUMMER H2
With Recirculating Ball-Type Steering
This bulletin is being revised to add additional procedures and time for vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals and to add additional models and years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-02-35-003B (Section 02 -- Steering).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk-type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.
Correction
Important
DO NOT REPLACE THE FOLLOWING INTERMEDIATE STEERING SHAFT P/Ns:
26085548
26049343
26083324
26088325
15772436
26078079
Remove the intermediate shaft from the vehicle and lubricate the intermediate shaft with a Steering Column Intermediate Shaft Lubrication Kit, P/N 26098419. Follow the service procedure below.
Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead position.
Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position.
Install the J 42640 in the steering column lower access hole.
For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, do the following steps.
Reposition the carpet away from the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor.
Remove the two nuts retaining the accelerator pedal to the bulkhead.
Reposition the accelerator pedal out of the way so that the intermediate shaft can be removed.
From inside the vehicle, remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection.
From under the hood, remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft.
Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly.
From inside the vehicle, slide the shaft down and off the steering column shaft.
From under the hood, slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft.
From inside the vehicle, slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft from the vehicle.
Remove the spacer clip from the end of the intermediate shaft with a pair of needle nose pliers.
Fully extend the shaft by pulling the two shafts apart.
Apply the syringe of grease supplied in the Steering Column Intermediate Shaft Lubrication Kit, P/N 26098419, into the open end of the shaft. Direct the syringe tip as deep as possible into the shaft and dispense the full content of the syringe.
Insert the plug supplied in the Steering Column Intermediate Shaft Lubrication Kit into the open end of the shaft and finger tighten the wing nut.
Place the plugged end of the shaft on a hard surface and apply pressure to collapse the shaft and dissipate the grease through the shaft.
Remove the plug from the shaft and fully extend the shaft.
Inspect the shaft for a minimum of 13 mm (1/2 in) of grease on the shaft splines.
Repeat steps 11-14 if less than 13 mm (1/2 in) of grease is on shaft splines.
Clean the excess grease off of the shaft splines and around the shaft opening.
Carefully spread apart the spacer clip with a pair of pliers.
Reinstall the spacer clip into the open end of the shaft.
Align the spacer clip with the stakes in the shaft.
Reinstall the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft.
Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft.
Install the upper bolt and nut. Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 47 N·m(35 lb ft).
Install the lower bolt and nut. Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 50 N·m(37 lb ft).
For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, do the following steps.
Reposition the accelerator pedals into position on the bulkhead.
Install the two retaining nuts. Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).
Reposition the carpet back into place.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty
26098419
Lubrication Kit, Steering Column Intermediate Shaft
1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
I agree with aa555zzz. Stabilitrak might not have made a difference. If it is really really slippery stuff nothing would help - other than attitude control thrusters! But there is a chance the spin could have been prevented, depending on how slippery it was.
I disagree that running in 4WD-HI wouldn't have helped. In 2WD, even small movements of the accelerator pedal can send the back end out, but in 4WD-HI (unlike AUTO-4WD) the torque is continously balanced between the front and back axles and reduces this tendency.
Around here in Virginia we get lots of black ice and compressed snow that is as slippery as anything anywhere. Studded tires are about the only solution!
So far, we are surviving just fine in the snow with the stock Firestone Wilderness LEs, even though they have a street-tire tread. But I haven't been out in more than 6 inches of snow yet!
I have noticed that 4WD-HI is noticeably better than AUTO-4WD in the snow.
glsable
Are you saying that you can get heated seats in the middle row buckets on the Denali? They are not available on the Suburban.
glsable
And on a related note--the idiot light next to the headlamp switch that indicates whether or not the auto-headlight-on/DRL is enabled apparently isn't offered on the '04 Denali/DXL, either...is this also true on the rest of GM's '04 full-sized SUV line?
If you have a problem with your engine knocking call GM & complain & insist on an extended warranty. Also, as worthless as it is, file a complaint with the Better Business Bureau. Auto manufacturers are rated on how many complaints they receive. The more we complain the more pressure we put on them to build better cars & fix those that are already sold.
If something seems like a safety concern file a complaint with the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, that's how recalls get started.
The only reason I would get the 2500 is because of quadrasteer. I drove one and was very impressed by the advantage - it seems like the type of thing you would appreciate every day. I also tow a boat and figure it would help there.
Though, I'm not thrilled by the stiffer feel of the 2500. At the price I'm looking at, I could get a Denali XL w/ bigger engine & less weight and more luxury.
Has anyone else had to weigh this decision? I'd appreciate your feedback.
I have never drive quadrasteer. How much is the option now? I think GM missed the boat not putting it on the 1500 series SUVs. But the reason is that the design has to be different for a coil spring rear end than it does for a leaf spring rear end. So, it is available on vehicles with leaf rear springs, but not coil rear springs.
Minivans do have more room. Why? They have smaller gas tanks, no rear-wheel drive and much less ground clearance. This allows for a much lower floor. I'll guess well over a foot lower.
I currently own a Tahoe and traded a Grand Voyager for it. When I removed the third row the van had tons of space! So given nearly same width and length, but more height the van wins.
Note the seating in the vans can be poor! many vans only can have 2 people in the second row. (new toyota can have 3) then you must have the 3rd row seat in/up. Then your Burban and even my Tahoe win. I got three kids....
--jay