Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali



  • Anyone know what the next set of incentives will be after the current ones expire the 12th of this month? I'm going to be getting a Suburban, but I don't know if I should wait and see if Chevrolet will give better incentives. Thanks for the help.
  • lobsenzalobsenza Posts: 619
    I havent had a problem with the mats coming loose. I did have the second row problem. I cut out 2 pieces of sheet metal and mounted it under the seat. The mat slides under the sheet metal and I eliminated the catching problem.
  • Last Tuesday, while driving on a rural snow/ice covered road, my '03 Z71 suburban lost control and spun around. It came close to ending up in a roadside ditch. But, luckily the rear bumber hit a roadside post and the vehicle came to a stop. Just before the spin, I tried to slow down and realized I had no traction. The ABS kicked in, but did not help the skid. I was doing about 40 MPH or little under it.

    At that time (before the spin), I had 2 wheel drive switch selected. I wonder if it would have been different had I selected Autotrac or 4-hi on that slick pavement.

    The damage was minimum, just the plactic center piece on the rear bumber came off. No other scratch. After the spin, I selected 4x4 switch and drove carefully to the destination.

    I am sure stabilitrac would have corrected the skid, but I opted for Z71 for it's agressive looks and bigger wheels. However, I am very happy with the truck and will be more careful on the icy conditions from now on. I perhaps overestimated the ability of Z71 burb to handle slippery conditions.

    Any recommendations on where to get that center plastic cover on the rear bumber for a '03 Z71? A dealer is the last resort.
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Posts: 640
    but I have no advice on where to find the piece. :)

  • lobsenzalobsenza Posts: 619
    Only helps in acceleration, not braking. Stabilitrac and ABS help with braking/steering situations
  • mkarpmkarp Posts: 22
    Am interested in a 99 suburban diesel. Can anyone advise on what the real world mpg would be? should I be concerned with any maintenance issues (approx 75-85k)?
  • Check this website for floor mats. I have these in my vehicle and they work great. However, they are expensive.
  • first timer here - be gentle! i am looking at buying a suburban or denali xl with second row captains chairs and third row seat options. currently i drive a venture mini-van, and it's getting time to look for a newer vehicle. i'm expecting # 4, so i'm looking for something with lots of room. these have tons of room behind the third row! anyway, i was wondering if anyone could give me some information on what they're like to drive, how they handle, and what kind of gas mileage i can expect. i do a lot of highway driving, and quite a few gravel roads, too. this will be the family vehicle, so any suggestions on putting a tv vcr/dvd in there would be most welcome. thanks for any information you can give me.
  • It is hard to know if StabiliTrak would have prevented your skid. StabiliTrak will prevent some skids, however, the laws of physics still apply.
  • After some initial research I now know that Suburbans are made in 1 of 3 plants. Janesville, WI: Arlington, TX: or Silao, Mexico. I do not own one yet but am seriously considering a 2001 or 2002 1/2 ton and maybe even a 3/4 ton. I have seen no less that 30+ 2001 3/4 tons on the web and everyone is from Mexico.

    I have a neighbor with a 2001 3/4 ton purchased new and it has been back to the dealer 13 times with 33k miles on it. He has had LOTS of little issues: window motor, autoride sensor, didn't start...... I have also read of oil consumption issues with the 8.1L engine and vibration with the Allison transmission.

    I also have a another neighbor with a 2001 1/2 ton LT from the Janesville plant. He has 44k miles and has NOT had "one" issue. He doesn't even do maintanance.

    I am not trying to start a debate........just looking for some good first hand experience from owners who can comment on their Suburban. Can anyone shed some first hand experience on any differences in quality or reliability between these production facilities if you own one? If your truck's VIN# starts with a "1" it is American and on your driver door there will be a sticker of either the state of Wisconsin or Texas differentiating the two plants. If your VIN# starts with "3" it is Mexican.
  • first timer here - be gentle! i am looking at buying a suburban or denali xl with second row captains chairs and third row seat options. currently i drive a venture mini-van, and it's getting time to look for a newer vehicle. i'm expecting # 4, so i'm looking for something with lots of room. these have tons of room behind the third row! anyway, i was wondering if anyone could give me some information on what they're like to drive, how they handle, and what kind of gas mileage i can expect. i do a lot of highway driving, and quite a few gravel roads, too. this will be the family vehicle, so any suggestions on putting a tv vcr/dvd in there would be most welcome. thanks for any information you can give me.
  • tdohtdoh Posts: 298
    Welcome to the forum; I'm a relative newbie in here too, but I'll try to address your issues as best I can...especially since I just recently bought an '04 Denali XL!

    As far as Suburban vs. Denali XL--think of the Denali as a small step below the Escalade but a bit above the 'burb (and Yukon XL--more or less the spitting image of the 'burb) as far as luxury refinements and minor body appearance are concerned. Given all this...if you're willing to spend the extra $5K or so that the DXL costs vs. the 'burb, then by all means go for the DXL.

    The primary differences between the 'burb/Yukon XL and the DXL can be summed up like so--some of the stuff that can only be added as factory-installed options on the 'burb come standard on the DXL (Autoride and Stabilitrak/AWD are standard on the DXL, but add-ons on the 'burb/YXL); also, DXL has the 6-liter engine, whereas the 1500 'burb/YXL doesn't offer it even as an option. There are some cosmetic differences between the two but that's your call if you wish to consider it as a purchasing factor.

    As far as the ride--you can't go wrong with the Stabilitrak/Autoride combo, especially in the conditions you describe.

    2nd-row captain's chairs are a $490 MSRP option but nice since they are heated (seats only--front seats have warmers in both seat and seatback); you may want to consider the rear-seat DVD entertainment option, although if you need the TV/VCR capability you'll need to do that aftermarket.

    For many people, the 'burb/YXL is the better buy since just about almost everything (notwithstanding exterior/interior cosmetic differences) that comes standard/optional on the DXL can also be had on the 'burb/YXL except (at least for now) the navigation system; OTOH--if you want to impress fellow GM full-size (and/or other) SUV owners as to which one is the best, period, but can't afford an Escalade...the DXL is the way to go.

    FWIW--I currently own an '03 Yukon XL; although it does the job, I regret not going all out (short of getting an Escalade--I'm not that rich) and getting the Denali XL last year. With the SUV tax break at my disposal, I was able to make up for my previous lack of judgment and bought an '04 DXL--black exterior/gray interior, with every available factory-installed option (2nd-row captain's chairs, moonroof, rear-seat DVD, navigation) except for the engine block heater (I don't need it where I live).

    HTH in whatever purchase decision you make; if it were up to me, I'd go for the Denali XL! ;)
  • tdohtdoh Posts: 298
    I forgot to mention about the gas mileage--with the larger engine in the DXL (6.0l vs. 5.3l in the 'burb/YXL), fuel economy will probably suffer a bit--how much is more or less dependent on how heavy your foot is. EPA on the DXL is rated at 13/17, and 14/18 on the 'burb; I average around 16 overall (majority of it highway driving) on the Yukon XL--can't say about the DXL since I haven't driven it that much yet.
  • kiilewkiilew Posts: 17
    Those Fox floor mats look awesome! All I have ever wanted is a floor mat that completely covers the door sill plate-to-carpet edge area, and I see from your attached link that those Fox mats do just that.

    I wonder if the Fox mats are available for the rear cargo area, too. I didn't notice any mention of that in that web site's pricing lists.

    I also wonder how well they work with the Suburban's sliding second seat mechanism (alluding to my earlier note regarding my Catch All's). Or will I still need to do something similar to lobsenza's innovative sheet metal fix for that issue!
  • thanks so much for the information - i really appreciate it.

  • *************************************************

    I have had two Subs, one 1500 and one 2500 that both came from Mexico. They are just as good as the ones built in US. Really would not give it a second thought.
    Mine does have 'piston slap' when cold. I can not blame it on Mexico because the engines are assembled in NY.

  • I am still looking at used low mileage 2001 Burbs. I like the idea of owning 3/4 Ton due to its heavy duty attributes. My wife and I drove both the Z71 and C2500 4X4 versions. Definite "FEEL" difference. The C2500 is 1400lbs heavier and it feels it. The Z looks sportier but feels softer.

    Please comment on ease of driving a C2500 4X4 with the 8100 engine for daily driving in the city if you have one. I know mileage is about 10mpg vs. maybe 14mpg for the C1500 with the 5.3. For us it equates to about $400 more per year to drive the C2500. No biggy.
  • I've been feeling a banging sensation that feels as if something is loose telegraphing into the steering wheel mostly when making a right turn (like on an enter or exit ramp). Anyone have any idea what it might be? Thanks. 2003 suburban LS
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    I have found that auto recycle centers are a good place to start.
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    Wife's '01 K2500HD has had zero problems (100K mileage warranty on the cold engine knock)
  • aa555zzaa555zz Posts: 55
    My vehicle is a 2002 Tahoe. My second row seat does not slide forward. I do not know how the Fox floor mats will work with the Suburban's sliding second row seats. Sorry.

    I do not think that Fox makes a floor mat for the rear cargo area. However, there are several other companies that do make a mat for the rear area. This website has a pretty good selection of mats.
  • aa555zzaa555zz Posts: 55
    My 2002 Tahoe was assembled at the Janesville plant and it has had its share of problems:

    *Front inner axle seal replaced - Leaking oil.
    *Wiper/turn signal switch replaced - Wiper delay not working correctly.
    *Oxygen sensor replaced - Failed
    *Fuel tank module replaced - Leaking gasoline.
    *Rear axle shaft seal replaced - Leaking oil.
    *Outside rear view mirror replaced. Heating element failed.

    I do not think that the failure of these parts had anything to do with where my vehicle was assembled.

    The parts that failed were parts of components that were built elsewhere and placed on the vehicle at the assembly plant.

    The parts would have failed regardless of which assembly plant used the components. Unfortunately, for me, they were shipped to Janesville and used on my vehicle.
  • jenvwjenvw Posts: 4
    I am wondering if there is any aftermarket option for adding shoulder belts to the middle seats of the back 2 rows in the Suburban. We use 3 of the 4 shoulder belts for our kids and would like to carpool to school next year, but are limited to only one other child due to lack of enough shoulder belts. I just don't feel comfortable driving my own, or others kids with only a lap belt. does anyone know if this is something that can be done. I called my local Chevy dealership and they were clueless.
  • kiilewkiilew Posts: 17
    Thank you for your response! Actually I called Fox Enterprises a few days ago and actually spoke to Jeff Fox who owns the company. You are correct that he does not manufacture mats for the either the cargo area or the 3rd seat floor space. Instead, he recommends Weather Tech pieces for those areas; he apparently has a close relationship with that company.

    As far as accommodating the Suburban sliding second row seat, he will have to cut an area out of the rear passenger floor mat lip to allow the sliding mechanism to clear it. However, this is standard operating procedure apparently, so he wasn't phased a bit by my request! At any rate, he was very responsive and helpful.

    Anyway, I have ordered a complete set for the '00 Suburban, and look forward to trying them out! If I like them well enough, I might order another set for my '02 Tahoe as well!
  • Three out of four power window motors failed and had to be replaced by my local dealership. GM agreed to pick up 1/2 the cost. My cost was about $250. Has any one else had a similar problem. I understand that the motor design has been changed for later models..FHS
  • My 2002 c2500 has a clunking sound when turning at low speed over bumps. This may be addressed by a Technical Service Bulletin that describes servicing the 'intermediate shaft on the steering column'. I've been told that GM has a 'kit' to remedy the problem. I have the text of the TSB if you need it.
  • It would be geatly appreciated if you could help me with locating the TSB pertaining to the steering column. Thank you very much. 2003 suburban LS
  • lobsenzalobsenza Posts: 619
    I would love an answer to this also. I looked at retrofitting the seat back from the 03 and it was cost prohibitive...
  • Got a problem with my 4x4. It does not seem to engage when I shift into 4x4. It is a model that has the shift lever on the floor, not the new push button variety. The light on floor shift console will not illuminate and the 4x4 does not seem to engage at all when it is manually shifted. I checked the linkage at transfer case and found all levers to have no play. I also checked the 4x4 fuse and it was ok as well. Could this problem be associated with the shift actuator located on the transfer case, or is there something else that could cause the unit to fail?? The 4x4 has never made any crazy noises since I have owned the truck. The 4x4 just quit working all of the sudden with no prior warning. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks tbone
  • here is the text of the TSB for lubricating the Intermediate Steering Column. The TSB number got lost somehow. Local Chevy/GMC shop should be able to find it.

    Clunking Noise Under Hood and can be felt in the Steering Wheel (Lubricate Intermediate Steering Shaft Assembly)
    2002-2004 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT

    2003-2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV

    1999-2004 Chevrolet Silverado

    2000-2004 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe

    2002-2004 Chevrolet Avalanche

    1999-2004 GMC Sierra

    2000-2004 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL

    2003-2004 HUMMER H2

    With Recirculating Ball-Type Steering

    This bulletin is being revised to add additional procedures and time for vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals and to add additional models and years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-02-35-003B (Section 02 -- Steering).

    Some customers may comment on a clunk-type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.




    Remove the intermediate shaft from the vehicle and lubricate the intermediate shaft with a Steering Column Intermediate Shaft Lubrication Kit, P/N 26098419. Follow the service procedure below.

    Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead position.
    Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position.
    Install the J 42640 in the steering column lower access hole.
    For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, do the following steps.
    Reposition the carpet away from the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor.
    Remove the two nuts retaining the accelerator pedal to the bulkhead.
    Reposition the accelerator pedal out of the way so that the intermediate shaft can be removed.

    From inside the vehicle, remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection.

    From under the hood, remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft.
    Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly.
    From inside the vehicle, slide the shaft down and off the steering column shaft.
    From under the hood, slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft.
    From inside the vehicle, slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft from the vehicle.

    Remove the spacer clip from the end of the intermediate shaft with a pair of needle nose pliers.
    Fully extend the shaft by pulling the two shafts apart.

    Apply the syringe of grease supplied in the Steering Column Intermediate Shaft Lubrication Kit, P/N 26098419, into the open end of the shaft. Direct the syringe tip as deep as possible into the shaft and dispense the full content of the syringe.

    Insert the plug supplied in the Steering Column Intermediate Shaft Lubrication Kit into the open end of the shaft and finger tighten the wing nut.

    Place the plugged end of the shaft on a hard surface and apply pressure to collapse the shaft and dissipate the grease through the shaft.
    Remove the plug from the shaft and fully extend the shaft.

    Inspect the shaft for a minimum of 13 mm (1/2 in) of grease on the shaft splines.
    Repeat steps 11-14 if less than 13 mm (1/2 in) of grease is on shaft splines.
    Clean the excess grease off of the shaft splines and around the shaft opening.

    Carefully spread apart the spacer clip with a pair of pliers.

    Reinstall the spacer clip into the open end of the shaft.

    Align the spacer clip with the stakes in the shaft.
    Reinstall the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft.
    Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft.
    Install the upper bolt and nut. Tighten
    Tighten the bolt to 47 N·m(35 lb ft).

    Install the lower bolt and nut. Tighten
    Tighten the bolt to 50 N·m(37 lb ft).

    For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, do the following steps.
    Reposition the accelerator pedals into position on the bulkhead.
    Install the two retaining nuts. Tighten
    Tighten the nuts to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).

    Reposition the carpet back into place.
    Parts Information
    Part Number

    Lubrication Kit, Steering Column Intermediate Shaft

    Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Sign In or Register to comment.