400-600 dollars extra buys many more miles of stock rubber 90,000- 136,000 miles worth!!! At todays gas prices of 2.25 per gal you can buy up to 9,300 miles of fuel at 35 mpg.
Just to give you a comparison; Corvette Z06 tires 1000-1400 per set (if you are easy on tires 56,000 miles) 4.55x-6.36x more. 195/65/15 Falken Ziex 512 220 per set.
I'm looking for tires for my daughter's '02 RSX. We live in the snow belt and I want to use these 12 months a year. The Kumho HP4 716 look attractive spec and price wise, but my dealer says he has had problems with Kumho in the past. I don't have any experience with this brand. They supposedly have a new model out called the ECSTA ASX for $20 more, each. Any comments would be appreciated.
Other brands being considered: Goodyear Assurance TripleTred Bridgestone Turanza LS-H Nokian WR
I went to 17" wheels on my 2003 Accord Coupe because I wanted better handling and because I couldn't stand the plastic wheel covers. It was much cheaper (not counting the money I got for selling my old wheels and tires) to get new wheels AND tires shipped to my doorstep than to get the upgraded 15" alloy wheels that Honda offered with the same crummy tires.
You would be shocked at how many compliments I have received on my wheels (even the guys at the Honda service department).
Driftracer was extremely helpful in showing me good wheels for what my preferences demanded. I took the money I saved by not getting leather, automatic transmission, a sunroof, and a 6 cylinder engine and pumped it into wheels and a serious sound system. Best move I ever made!
, which is probably one reason why there is an OVERLOADED plethora of choices!!! Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder, i.e., one who is paying the freight. I would not pass a judgement on one's taste in wheels. So I am happy that you are happy!
On the tire side however, the drill more or less intersects at 205/50/17 or 225/40/17. H, V,W Y, Z rated tires.
I've owned my Accord (LX 4cyl) for about 5yrs now, and the OEM tires are getting close to needing a replacement. Also, I was thinking of instead of looking for new car, invest much less money into my Accord to basically improve performance.
For that, tires come first to mind followed by shocks, then a turbo (already decided against the turbo; not much value from performance/price ratio). So, I'm left w/ tires and shocks.
Now, since my car isn't new, ebaying four steel wheels isn't likely (any ideas what I can do w/ 4 steel rims for an Accord?) So, it boils down to having to spend extra money for 17" wheels & tires (than 15" tries only). In my estimate, that's an extra 400-600 $$ ontop what I would have to pay for a set of 4 15" tires.
And the question is: For those who went from 15" to 17" wheels on an accord, who much better the car handling got (for moderate to slightly agressive driving)?
"any ideas what I can do w/ 4 steel rims for an Accord?"
Do you not realize the gillions of people who look to ebay for steel or aluminum wheels to mount snow tires on? Getting $100-150 for your steels is NOT a problem.
Today, from ebay, I just sold a 5 year old set of Kelly Chargers (205/60-15) with 5/32" tread remaining for $80...just for info...
I quoted $600 for tires AND wheels, not $600 over the cost of 15s - check several major tire/wheel retailers for specials and I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.
You are right in thinking that a tire upgrade will present probably the best bang for the buck for handling improvement. Outside of ride considerations (your ride will suffer, but many will suck that up as the price of "performance"), do you plan on doing any lowering? (new springs, old springs?) Even if you do not, the next item on the agenda might be struts and shocks; adjustables, Tokico Illuminas, KYB AGX's, Koni Yellows come to mind (400-600 dollars) There are many others of course.
I suggest a more simple approach - KYB GR2s are better than stock, and very inexpensive - adding thse with Eibach Pro-kit springs (progressive rate) can be done for under $400 if you do it yourself.
As an aside, I build SCCA competition cars - I don't see ANY need for $200 apiece adjustable struts on a car where the owner just wants it to handle a little better.
The utility of an adjustable is really that. If someone does not like the characteristics of say a KYB GR2 after putting them on, then: yup: T.S. The adjustables give you up to eight dial in's before TS. Also I am not sure where you buy your stuff but KYB AGX's go for 365 set of 4 and not the 800 that you have mentioned.
So if you both know that you like the KYB GR2 over say any one of a dozen (actually more) then for sure cut to the chase and go for it. That only makes sense. You also save the money NOT having this variable valve option. But I didn't really hear that the selection was culled to say top 1/2/3/4/5/ and/or which is the best out of the five.
Besides an SCCA competitve car will probably not be very adaptable for the LA freeway system. Or perhaps the roll cage is more applicable than it would first seem!
only the most radical SCCA classes require a roll cage - none of the 4 cars we have has one, and we have one car in modified, two in street prepared, and one in stock.
If someone hasn't bought into the whole "car modification" thing and is freaking out about paying an extra $300-400 for aftermarket wheels and tires, I doubt they'll self-justify an extra $200 on shocks/struts.
GR2s ride great, and so do Sports or AGXs if they're set at 3 or below.
I need to replace the tires on my 2002 F150 4*4. I am thinking of the BFG KO tires. They are winter rated, but I understand that BFG approves them for use all year round. Could anyone please share their experiences with this tire. Snow traction is important for accessing unplowed laneways, but my company does not want to supply both summer and winter tires.
for more spirited driving - most autocross guys, save for the techno-geeks, don't run adjustables on the rear simply because bound and rebound aren;t nearly as noticeable back there, except for how stiffer settings tend to bring the rear end around easily (bad thing, no matter where you are).
I've run GR2s on a GTI and a Jetta with a great feeling, but I was running Eibach Sportline springs on the GTI and Suspension Techniques springs on the Jetta, so they helped the struts quite a bit.
On the VW Jetta TDI, I have already pre bought Bilstein TC's, Neuspeed Sofsport springs and Autotech rear sway bar, 28mm.
On the Honda, the thing has like 2600 miles and am getting the feeling either the Tokico's or the KYB's are probably better for the Civic (over the Bilsteins TC's or even HD's) when the stock/struts and shocks give out.
On the tires for the Civic, I have it down to (commuter car, boring application I know) in no particular order:
I put a set of Kuhmo 716s on my wife's friend's car (92 Eagle Talon ES) and my daughter's Malibu and they seem to be doing great - no noise, good wear, etc - the Eagle is at 10k and the Malibu is at 8k on these tires - and they're CHEAP!
A good % of folks who use the Kumho's seem to like them and of course the price blows them away. One vendor that I use (for Corvettes) owns a dyno shop and is a custom tuner is a champion SCCA racer who runs an almost BONE stock Corvette and he personally uses the Kumho MX's!!! Now I hesitate to even remotely suggest that a line is good, but it seems for the tire products that I have interest, the Kumho products are earning its "stripes".
We live in New England; Two of our vehicles, a 2004 Audi A6 Avant (awd) and a 2004 Honda Civic, have snow tires from Thanksgiving until mid April. The Audi uses the new Michelin X-Ice, the Honda: Blizzak WS-50's. I mention this only because I am a bit fanatical about winter tires and safety. However....
There are a few tires that are designed to be very capable year round and in snow/ice. The Nokian is the only one, of those you mentioned that, to the best of my knowledge, has the mountain/snowflake designation. It is also "guaranteed" for 50,000 miles.
Any tire is a compromise; the more it is designed to perform in ice and snow conditions, the greater the compromise of wear and dry handling (e.g. the Blizzak WS-50). It all depends upon one's priorities. If you must have the tires on year round, choose one that is rated for severe winter conditions, not merely an "all season" designation.
Thanks for the two replies and the support of the Nokian WR. I've bought 3 sets of the NRW's over the years. I used them as strictly winter tires for a Lexus and BMW and thought they were (are) excellent snow tires. I feel no disadvantage driving in snow with RWD using these. I put them on our Odyssey as 12 month tires and the only problem we notice is that they slip off the line if the street is merely wet (40 degree weather). Consumer Reports noted the same thing. The dealer tells me the WR corrects this. Have either of you noticed this?
You're right when you say no one tire does everything perfect, but these may be the best compromise. They aren't the cheapest either.
If aftermarket wheels and the stock spare in the trunk, it is a good idea to keep a set of the lug nuts in the trunk for use with the spare tire, if an emergency arises.
Chances are, the lug nuts of the aftermarket wheels may have a different seating geometry than OE wheels. Using the incorrect nuts can be dangerous
I have just put these on my 2001 Pathfinder LE. They are great in rain and in snow/ice. I haven't driven them very much in rainy conditions but haven't noticed slippage off the line so far. Previous tires on my vehicle could be induced to slip when in 2WD mode, so I would notice if they had a problem.
I can get my WR's to spin from a stop on wet surfaces (steady to heavy rain, for instance). This is without tons of accelerator applied. My FWD vehicle has no traction control, so that is part of the reason why.
The previous tires would spin even worse than the WR's do, however.
I have the WR's on a '02 FWD Highlander,and have no complaints. I drove 150 miles in a terrantial rainfall and the tires performed admirably. I can force the tires to break loose from a stop on a wet road, by stomping on the gas, but the tires hook up and go, a lot faster than the Goodyears they replaced. Wet performance is a extremely good.
Well - it sounds like everyone likes their WR's. Though I wish there was one tire that could handle like a slot car and then climb Mt. Everest - it hasn't been invented yet. I agree that if you want one tire for 12 months/year and live where there is snow - the snow performance should be the first consideration and everything else second. Guess I'll splurge and get a new set installed between Xmas and New Years. The dealer wants $520 for 205/55R16.
I'm very happy with the snow/ice performance of my WR's, and as an added benefit, the tires generate less road noise than either of my previous sets of tires did.
I noticed no reduction in summer performance either, though it is a minivan after all. Even so, summer performance is as good or better than the previous sets of tires I had.
I have to agree with you. These tires are at least equal or quieter than the OE Goodyears. They also corner better. I am hopping for a BIG early snow so I can go out and play in it. I paid $515 for a set. I had to order from the Tire Factory in Michigan. Then there were mounting charges. I had them HUNTER ROAD FORCE balanced. Not a hint of vibration, at least up to 85 mph, so far.
The store that sells Nokian in Chicagoland is Suburban Tire. They've treated me well over the years. The price includes mounting and balancing and free rotation and balancing for life. Since this set of WR's are going on my daughter's car, it's more important to consider bad weather then her trying to race Vettes. I was thinking of up-sizing them to 17" with new wheels, but I'll leave well enough alone for now. If she wants bigger wheels one of these days, we'll put summer tires on them.
to keep track of the lug nuts, it's really easy to either use a zip tie to secure them all through a lug nut hole on the spare wheel, or you can use wire or a coat hanger...
If you use a zip tie, make sure you have something to cut it with!! Fingers don't tear zip ties very well...
I think it has already begun/ been around awhile in the USA. OEM tires on my 2003 VW Jetta, 2001 Corvette Z06, 2004 Honda Civic, respectively Jetta, (Continentals, Goodyears, Michelins) Vette, (Goodyear Eagle F1 SC's) Honda (Dunlops). All, do not have mileage warranties and specifically say it has to fail due to a MANUFACTURING defect. This in practical terms requires/needs expert forensic evidence if the OEM turns adverserial. In my opinion unscientific "WORD of mouth" becomes all the more important, when considering a new brand model of tire. YOU really don't want to be the pejorative experimental pig.
in the US that allows for tire road hazards or mileage, save for a few high line places (dealers, not mfrs) that would help a consumer out to keep them a happy customer.
The only thing covered in the manufacturer's warranty is manufacturer defects, and even those aren't handled through the dealer directly (although they may run interference) - the tire manufacturer covers those claims.
OEM tires are junk, and I don't expect much, anyway.
I've bought Michelin tires from Walmart and Goodyear from Sams Club with "Road Hazard" coverage of $10 or less per tire. A few years ago, probably 2000, I was able to purchase Road Hazard coverage on the tires that came on a Jeep Grand Cherokee at Sears... A year later I tried that again after trading the Jeep but they had quit that practice.
Just a quick report on these new (to me) tires. Found myself driving like it was summer yesterday (-20 C with ice and snow on road). VERY confidence inspiring! - 2001 Pathfinder LE
This vehicle was never like that even when the OEM tires were new. Guess that means I don't care if they warrenty the OEM tires - they're junk anyway!
It is too bad that Nissan has seen fit to put "junk" tires on your Pathfinder.
For the suvs, I have this is an example of the best of times, the worst of times. The Michelin LTX while a perpetual "oldie" is really not beaten over all by too many other tires and or manufacturers. I am excited about eventually changing them, but two of three tires I have my eyes on are actually cheaper than the LTX ! Bridgestone AT Revo's, Yokohama Geolander HT/S.
I have read a lot of good things about the Nokian, but not many dealers that sell or service them around here.
I have a 2000 AWD Lexus RX 300 and the current tires are Goodyear Integrity's. I live in Florida so winter traction is not a problem but we do have frequent rain and occasional flooding.
Are Goodyear Integrity's the best replacement tire or would another tire be better?
The car has 55K miles on it and we replaced the factory Goodyear Integrity's at 20K miles (there was still some tread but with a 39K mile lease we figured that it made sense to replace the tires halfway through the lease - little did I know then that we would buy the car at the end of the lease!).
I had the same tires on my Highlander and I didn't like them. I thought they were bad on wet pavement and dangerous on snow (not a problem for you!) Then I had one blow out on me while driving at 80 Mph. That's when I decided to replace them.
I replaced them with Michelin Cross Terrains and they completely transformed the car. The Michelins were quieter, provided a better ride, much better handling, better steering response, and much improved wet performance. They are also decent on snow, if you ever decide to travel up north!
I also had Goodyear Integrity's on my 02 Highlander, and I also replaced them at 20K. Not because of a lease, but because at this point they lost whatever wet traction they had. They had become dangerous on wet roads and lousy in snow. I switched to Nokian Wr, a great winter and all season tire.
Just bought a used Volvo C70 Coupe(luv it!!!), looking to replace the tires, and do it in the very near future because obviously the last owner has a blow out pretty close to when he traded it in and there is one mis-matched tire.
Car has some sweet looking stock rims, sized 225/45/17. Have been doing some research and have narrowed it down to a couple of tires. Keep in mind that i'm not looking to spend a fortune, and am looking for a place that offers road hazzard insurance, i'm in NY and potholes are everywhere, and i don't trust myself to look out for all of them.
Here are my choices
1) Bridgestone Potenza G009(have been rated decently on tirerack)
2) Continental ContiExtremeContact(have been rated very well on tirerack)
3) Falken Ziex ZE-512(#1 on consumer reports and pretty damn cheap, dunno if i can bring myself to buy a tire that hasn't been around to long)
would luv some feedback and advice from owners of the above tires.
Comments
Just to give you a comparison; Corvette Z06 tires 1000-1400 per set (if you are easy on tires 56,000 miles) 4.55x-6.36x more. 195/65/15 Falken Ziex 512 220 per set.
Then, I sell my stock 15s on ebay, recoup $200-300, and new wheels and tires aren't that big of a deal.
17s will handle FAR better than simply changing sizes on the 15" wheels (which had several bad sides to it), as well as enhance appearance.
Aftermarket and up-sized wheels and tires aren't for everyone - commuters, boring people, and appliance car drivers see few benefits.
I am SO glad I don't fit one of those categories.
Other brands being considered:
Goodyear Assurance TripleTred
Bridgestone Turanza LS-H
Nokian WR
You would be shocked at how many compliments I have received on my wheels (even the guys at the Honda service department).
Driftracer was extremely helpful in showing me good wheels for what my preferences demanded. I took the money I saved by not getting leather, automatic transmission, a sunroof, and a 6 cylinder engine and pumped it into wheels and a serious sound system. Best move I ever made!
Why don't you post a digital picture of how they look.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
On the tire side however, the drill more or less intersects at 205/50/17 or 225/40/17. H, V,W Y, Z rated tires.
I've owned my Accord (LX 4cyl) for about 5yrs now, and the OEM tires are getting close to needing a replacement. Also, I was thinking of instead of looking for new car, invest much less money into my Accord to basically improve performance.
For that, tires come first to mind followed by shocks, then a turbo (already decided against the turbo; not much value from performance/price ratio). So, I'm left w/ tires and shocks.
Now, since my car isn't new, ebaying four steel wheels isn't likely (any ideas what I can do w/ 4 steel rims for an Accord?) So, it boils down to having to spend extra money for 17" wheels & tires (than 15" tries only). In my estimate, that's an extra 400-600 $$ ontop what I would have to pay for a set of 4 15" tires.
And the question is: For those who went from 15" to 17" wheels on an accord, who much better the car handling got (for moderate to slightly agressive driving)?
You can probably get 95% of the advantages at only 70% of the cost by moving up to 16", rather than 17".
And.. if you like, you can go with a used set of factory wheels.. lots of selection in that size.
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Do you not realize the gillions of people who look to ebay for steel or aluminum wheels to mount snow tires on? Getting $100-150 for your steels is NOT a problem.
Today, from ebay, I just sold a 5 year old set of Kelly Chargers (205/60-15) with 5/32" tread remaining for $80...just for info...
I quoted $600 for tires AND wheels, not $600 over the cost of 15s - check several major tire/wheel retailers for specials and I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.
As an aside, I build SCCA competition cars - I don't see ANY need for $200 apiece adjustable struts on a car where the owner just wants it to handle a little better.
So if you both know that you like the KYB GR2 over say any one of a dozen (actually more) then for sure cut to the chase and go for it. That only makes sense. You also save the money NOT having this variable valve option. But I didn't really hear that the selection was culled to say top 1/2/3/4/5/ and/or which is the best out of the five.
Besides an SCCA competitve car will probably not be very adaptable for the LA freeway system.
If someone hasn't bought into the whole "car modification" thing and is freaking out about paying an extra $300-400 for aftermarket wheels and tires, I doubt they'll self-justify an extra $200 on shocks/struts.
GR2s ride great, and so do Sports or AGXs if they're set at 3 or below.
I sense that might be one issue!
Also what is your take on the GR's and AGX's for both a VW Jetta TDI 4 door 5 speed, and Honda Civic 4 door automatic?
I've run GR2s on a GTI and a Jetta with a great feeling, but I was running Eibach Sportline springs on the GTI and Suspension Techniques springs on the Jetta, so they helped the struts quite a bit.
On the VW Jetta TDI, I have already pre bought Bilstein TC's, Neuspeed Sofsport springs and Autotech rear sway bar, 28mm.
On the Honda, the thing has like 2600 miles and am getting the feeling either the Tokico's or the KYB's are probably better for the Civic (over the Bilsteins TC's or even HD's) when the stock/struts and shocks give out.
On the tires for the Civic, I have it down to (commuter car, boring application I know) in no particular order:
1. BFG Traction TA/HR
2. Falken Ziex ZE 512
3. Goodyear Assurance Comfort Tread
4. Goodyear Assurance Triple Tread
5. Kumho Ecsta HP4 716's
6. Yokohama Avid H4S
7. Bridgestone Turanza LS-T
Can either one of you recommend/point me to best places for tires/wheels on the internet???? I need help w/ picking the best tire.
After searching the internet, the prices I got for tire/wheel combo are about $160 for 16" to $215 for 18" w/ 17" somewhere inbetween.
There are a few tires that are designed to be very capable year round and in snow/ice. The Nokian is the only one, of those you mentioned that, to the best of my knowledge, has the mountain/snowflake designation. It is also "guaranteed" for 50,000 miles.
Any tire is a compromise; the more it is designed to perform in ice and snow conditions, the greater the compromise of wear and dry handling (e.g. the Blizzak WS-50). It all depends upon one's priorities. If you must have the tires on year round, choose one that is rated for severe winter conditions, not merely an "all season" designation.
You're right when you say no one tire does everything perfect, but these may be the best compromise. They aren't the cheapest either.
Chances are, the lug nuts of the aftermarket wheels may have a different seating geometry than OE wheels. Using the incorrect nuts can be dangerous
The previous tires would spin even worse than the WR's do, however.
I noticed no reduction in summer performance either, though it is a minivan after all. Even so, summer performance is as good or better than the previous sets of tires I had.
If you use a zip tie, make sure you have something to cut it with!! Fingers don't tear zip ties very well...
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I suppose the US will be next.
Steve, Host
The only thing covered in the manufacturer's warranty is manufacturer defects, and even those aren't handled through the dealer directly (although they may run interference) - the tire manufacturer covers those claims.
OEM tires are junk, and I don't expect much, anyway.
Bill
This vehicle was never like that even when the OEM tires were new. Guess that means I don't care if they warrenty the OEM tires - they're junk anyway!
For the suvs, I have this is an example of the best of times, the worst of times. The Michelin LTX while a perpetual "oldie" is really not beaten over all by too many other tires and or manufacturers. I am excited about eventually changing them, but two of three tires I have my eyes on are actually cheaper than the LTX ! Bridgestone AT Revo's, Yokohama Geolander HT/S.
I have read a lot of good things about the Nokian, but not many dealers that sell or service them around here.
Are Goodyear Integrity's the best replacement tire or would another tire be better?
The car has 55K miles on it and we replaced the factory Goodyear Integrity's at 20K miles (there was still some tread but with a 39K mile lease we figured that it made sense to replace the tires halfway through the lease - little did I know then that we would buy the car at the end of the lease!).
I replaced them with Michelin Cross Terrains and they completely transformed the car. The Michelins were quieter, provided a better ride, much better handling, better steering response, and much improved wet performance. They are also decent on snow, if you ever decide to travel up north!
Highly recommended.
Sly
Car has some sweet looking stock rims, sized 225/45/17. Have been doing some research and have narrowed it down to a couple of tires. Keep in mind that i'm not looking to spend a fortune, and am looking for a place that offers road hazzard insurance, i'm in NY and potholes are everywhere, and i don't trust myself to look out for all of them.
Here are my choices
1) Bridgestone Potenza G009(have been rated decently on tirerack)
2) Continental ContiExtremeContact(have been rated very well on tirerack)
3) Falken Ziex ZE-512(#1 on consumer reports and pretty damn cheap, dunno if i can bring myself to buy a tire that hasn't been around to long)
would luv some feedback and advice from owners of the above tires.
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Of the ones you mentioned, I'd go with the Continentals..
regards,
kyfdx
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