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Assuming the air you just received was your allotment from Summer 2004, you are a little behind in your seasonal air update...I recommend that you skip fall and winter, and just jump right into Spring 2005...that way your air will be current, as the thought of stale air in tires is something that would keep me awake at night... :confuse: :confuse:
96 Escort: altho it might cost $40-50, it might pay to take in your car to the tire shop and have them install long 2-2.5 inch valve stems...I did that on my truck, and putting air in is a snap...also, remember this forever...whenever you buy new tires, ALWAYS ask them for long valve stems...you would think they would do this automatically, but they will often use what the factory used, and that is the problem...why the factory doesn't change over to long stems is beyond me, but it makes life so much easier...I never liked the valve extenders, altho it is a cheap way to solve the problem, but I would rather spend the $10 per wheel and be done with it...
Actually, no, unless there is a "bottom" (hard pack or rock underneath). You can get the wheels so deep the chassis drags. In fact, you can get the wheels in deep enough that you don't have the torque to turn them! You want to float on top, with traction. A tricky combination to achieve. You have to drive like you have an egg between your foot and the accelerator pedal. The trick is to "air down" the tires to get as big a footprint as possible, or, use the cool (and expensive) track convertion "wheels" which give you a huge foot print as they are rubber tracks.
They've got Opportunity stuck in a sand (perhaps more accurately, dust) dune presently on Mars. "Up to the axles". He he. They've got their work cut out to get it out now! I hope they get it out, otherwise it will be a "fixed camera platform" from now on. ;-)
I recently decided it was time to buy new tires as my 205/60/16 Contisports wore out at 30K miles. I had the car aligned with the old tires and wheels and then went off to purchase my tires. As will often happen to a boy in spring, I came home with a new set of wheels mounted with 235/40/17 Michelin Pilot PS tires.
Although I had an alignment done immediately before I purchased the new wheels and tires, my friend insists that the wider tires on the larger wheels requires a new alignment because the chamber (and possibly the toe-in) will be off.
I say that the difference in width is negligible enough (approximately an inch, in English) that the fresh alignment done before installation will be fine.
At this point, I've decided to stick with my steelies which came on the car. The Turanza LS-T's make the car ride so much better than the original Poortenzas so why should I mess around. I did see some beautiful rims at Sears though...Z Racing brand. But since I'm so particular about a nice smooth vibration free ride, why spend money on something I probaly will be unhappy with. A shame too, 'cause I've seen the wheels on other small imports and they do look sweet. But I don't want to open a can of worms as I'm very happy with the way the car rides now.
I am not sure what Potenza's came with your car, but I understand the Turanza T's are very good and are actually on one of my vehicle's "next tire lists" ! Please let us know how the Bridgestone Turanza LS-T's fare for you!
They make my car drive like a much larger car...like driving on rails. I wanted to go with the Firestone Affinity brand, but my old high school friend, now the store manager, told me I'd be happier with the Bridgestones and even gave them to me at his cost. Within 5 minutes I knew he was right. The car drove much smoother and surefooted. It rained 2 days later and wow...they really performed oustandingly! Had great traction with a steady heavy rain. Go for 'em...I'm so happy I did. The Sentra came with the R92's I think...horrible tire but Nissan probaly got a great deal on 'em. I've seen them on alot of other makes also.
Thanks for the data point. My size would be the 185/70/14 for a Honda Civic 4 door automatic. The other tires on the list are:
2. GY Comfort Tread
3. GY Triple Tread
4. BFG Traction T/A
5. Toyo Ultra 800
These tires are all T rated (vs a S rating for the oem fitment).
I have had other Bridgestone and GY tires. I was very underwhelmed till recently! I think both companies are successfully reversing the southern trend and delivering best of breed products.
I'd appreciate other data points or even recommendations not on the list!
This is the size that came on the '03 Sentra. I really wanted to go to 195/65/15 so as to have a higher sidewall for more comfort, but was convinced to keep the same size. On our '01 Altima, I went from 205/60/15 to 205/65/15 and felt that the car drove so much better. The car normally comes with the 195/65/15, but we got the GXE Ltd. Edition model and had the upgrade from the factory. On the sales slip from the tire store, they even wrote down that the customer wanted a different size tire so as to cover their as-es if something happened later on down the road. Couldn't blame them for that though with people sueing (?) left and right in the U S.
I have a 99 Yukon with Bridgestone Lt245/75/16 - Load range C tires - I am going to replace them but my question is this - it is hard to find that same load range, most tires seem to have a load range E - Some guys have told me I should just go with P tires - but I do tow a 6x10 trailer sometimes and a small boat - My question is - Should I stay with the LT tires and if so - will the ride from E load tires be rougher? I like the ride of my truck now and don't really want it to be alot different, some guys told me the E tires would be really bouncy compared to the Cs I have now. Anyway - any help from anyone who has experience with this would be great!
That won't be bad for the tires - if I under inflate them? Also, on my Bridgestone duellers is says to inflate to 35psi - but I have read where most people say that load C tires should be higher?
But load E tires at a lower inflation range would be alright for everything?
Basically using an inflation pressure that is well below the maximum is a non-issue, provided the pressure is the correct one and tire size is correct. It's when you try to use a pressure that is too high, that there will be a problem.
You will not be underinflating them - you're using the pressure that's appropriate for the load.
If I've read the chart right, your placard should say 45 psi. If I remember right, the placard on a GM truck is on the driver's door (maybe the driver's doorpost). Check this as there may be a problem here!
I say that because I think your B/S's should say 50 psi max. If they say 35 max, then you have P metric tires (starts with the letter P) instead of LT metrics (starts with the letter LT). And, yes, LT's need to be inflated to higher pressures than the dimensionally similar P metrics (and Euro metrics, too!)
You are right - the BSs say 50psi - while on my door is says P tires inflated to 35psi - So I have been under inflating the tires I have now to 35?? Guess it has been working??? Didn't know they had to be up to 50 - or is that just if you want to be able to do a bigger load?
Thanks for your help - but due to my confusion I am more confused than ever ehehehehe -
I'm going to take an educated guess that your placard says P245/75R16 inflated to 35 psi. This means the GAWR should say 4129 pounds front and rear. (2064 # per tire)
In order to carry the same load an LT245/75R16 needs 47 psi. GM probably included some round off procedure in their calculation, so for practical purposes they used 45 psi for LT245/75R16's - which is what would appear on the placard if the vehicle had come with the LT tires.
Certainly using 50 psi in an LT245/75R16 would be acceptable.
And, yes, 35 psi would be too low for an LT245/75R16. But if you didn't load the truck very often, you might not experience any problems. However, it certainly isn't the best practice.
Just for those who are following this thread: What is written on the sidewall of a tire is NOT a pressure recommendation by the tire manufacturer. It is a limiting factor based on standard tables for the particular size and load range involved.
Own a 2000 Ford Ranger 2WD XLT and am in market for replacement tires. Firestone Destination LEs seem to rate highly but they look wimpy. OTOH, BFGoodrich seem to rate only middling, especially regarding traction, but they look bold.
Other interesting thing is the Firestones cost over $10 less than BFGoodrichs. Go figure.
I have a 2002 impala ls and I just bought new tires and my tire dealer put nitrogen in instead of compressed air,they put 35 psi in and it rode like a brick so I reduced the pressure too 31.5 (owners manual calls for 30 psi)my question is since nitrogen does not increase pressure as it heats up like air does (3lbs. roughly) should I have left 33 lbs. of nitrogen in instead? I mean does chevy figure the tires are going to heat up 3lbs.which would take them too 33lbs.? and thats why they only inflate to 30lbs.? I just don't wanna waste all the money I put into tires hope some one has experienced something similar and can help me out cause the tire shop wants to fill the tires to 35 and they handle like sh*t that high thank-you.
The difference between air and nitrogen is minimal. After all, air is 78% nitrogen. So the difference in pressure build up is barely measureable (fractions of a psi)
It's not so important what pressure you wind up with. What's important is what you start off with. That's because the tire load standards are based on deflection, which is a function of the cold (starting) inflation pressure.
I'm not sure why the tire shop insists on putting 35 psi in - perhaps it's because this will always be enough pressure - but you can always reset the pressure after you leave the shop and avoid the discussion altogether!.
Just a word of caution: My experience is that the guys at the shop level have many misconceptions, so you should take what they say with a grain of salt (maybe the whole shaker!).
You didn't say what tire you have on your Impala and the size profile ratio makes a difference in the ride.
I have a LeSabre with recommended pressure of 30 pounds also. I usually ran the 98's General tires at 33-35. BUT those were a very soft-riding tire and they roll easily for good mileage on the standard LeSabre. When I put Michelin X-Ones on, I find that 32-31 is generally better riding.
On the newer LeSabre with 60 profile Michelin Symmetry tires, I run at 33-34 but it rides much rougher. I like that for trips and higher speed driving, but around town it's better to use 31. But that wears the edges faster.
Be sure your own gauge is close to 'right' pressure, +/- 1 pounds. I have three gauges, a metal round gauge from KMart $10, a plastic round gauge $6 KMart, and a pencil gauge $1. They read one pound different so I use the average. Set your tires how you like the feel for your driving.
In hot weather the tires heat up more at higher speed and the increased pressure then lowers the heat buildup. If you drive more at lower speeds, or colder climate, you can decide if it's worth the tire wear to use lower pressure.
The most important care item is to rotate them every 6-7 thousand miles and rebalance regularly. They wear unevenly on the rear especially. So getting them rotated around using the modified X method keeps the tires from getting uneven wear (like my two X-Ones have). I hope you got a lifetime rotation and balance as part of the purchase price.
Nitrogen--forget it. Nice sales gimmick. In our area the nastiest tire chain out of Cincinnati started that months ago. I would rather just have had integrity in handling my alignment problems with the 98 LeSabre. I nitrogen after they started. If you are a semi truck driver and buy tires that you keep for 500,000 miles with retreading, it might make a difference in longevity of your rubber. Myself I don't run my Michelins that long. X-Ones have 85 K and 25% of tread left on two. They'll go by end of summer for new Harmony tires like the other two.
The best air to use if "free" air at the service station.
About the only thing this will do is ensure there is minimal water vapour with the tire air. I don't know how they think nitrogen will not increase pressure with temp. - it's a gas just like oxygen, argon, helium, etc. They all increase pressure with temp. - it's a law dude! ;-)
Ensuring there is little water vapour in the tires will reduce corrosion (if that was ever a problem), and may affect the pressure vs. temp. function a little - but only if some of the water condenses. Then you have the additional effect of the water evaporating and condensing dependant on temp. If there is only a little water vapour (stays in vapour form), then it acts just like any other gas. If you think the water vapour has a large effect, let me remind you that here in Edmonton, almost all of it freezes in the winter. If it had a large effect the tire pressure should drop dramatically. It doesn't. It still follows Boyles law.
After checking around and reading tirerack reviews, I recommended the same Firestones for my uncle's '99 Ford Ranger 2WD... It was basically used as a "grocery getter", and he wanted a nice ride...
Bottom line.. He hated them.. said they rode like rocks..
Just one person's opinion, but on the same vehicle you have..
the tires in question are Michelin harmonys 225/60/16 and I been running them at 31 psi and it rides a lot better thanks for all the input and i did check them after running hot and sure enough the pressure rose to 35 psi the tire shop lied I guess huh well thanks for the help it was informative
Got these new tires (500 miles on them now) in replacement of some noisy Goodyear RSX tires in 195/60-15. My initial impression is that Consumer Report's recommendation is well-founded - they are very smooth, grippy in the dry, and have quieted down considerably after the first few hundred miles. I would say dry handling is comparable to Bridgestone 950's. 950's are well known for their rain performance, but do poorly (according to CR - I have no personal experience) in the snow. The Ziex's are supposed to be good in snow, so that plus their better price is what you are getting by shopping an off-brand.
Falken are made by Sumitomo Tire of Japan; Sumitomo's tires are sold at Sear's, Falken's are sold by smaller tire shops (for the tuner crowd, mostly, and a few CR readers) and by at least one big chain (America's Tire Store).
If I notice anything better or worse than ordinary, I will report back.
Past tires I have known:
Goodyear LS on VW Golfs - much better tire than the tire rack ratings would indicate.
Dunlop Sport A2's - not nearly as good as the tire rack ratings would indicate, less grip than Goodyear LS and squealed on curves.
Bridgestone 950's - the standard for high performance all season, not as smooth as the Falken's or a quite as Kumho Ecsta HP 716's.
Kumho 716's - quietest tires I have had, but more of a touring than high performance tire - grip well enough, but turn in response isn't as good as 950's. Replaced by Solus KH-16 in early 2005.
BF Goodrich T/A - rated as touring, but felt high performance on a Neon.
BF Goodrich Traction T/A V-rated - one of the worst tires I have had. The V rated version was a close size replacement (Plus 0) for the stock, slightly larger tires on a later Neon. They had the best turn in and grip of any tires I have had, but the worst noise and ride; their big flaw, though, was a severe tire pull to the right that couldn't be cured by any number of tire swaps and rotations. I have heard that the H rated version doesn't suffer these problems (or have this degree of handling performance.)
Micweb, why did you change the size of your tires? I went from a 205/60/15 to a 205/65/15 on my wife's Altima and the tire shop put it on the invoice that I, the customer, asked for the size change. Probaly to cover their butt's for any future liability on their part I suspected. On my car, I wanted to go from a 195/60/15 to a 195/65/15, as I prefer a taller side wall for a smoother ride. My friend who's the manager there told me to keep the original size for my Sentra and I did follow his advice eventhough I still wanted the 65 series. He said it was better to stay with the 60 series and stated that the car was engineered for that particular size. But on the wife's car, the change makes her car drive smoother than when it was new with the oem tires. Can anyone give me an easy to understand answer to this sizing question? I figured even my car would ride smoother with the 65 series also? Am very confused here?
When you increase your sidewall height, and keep the same wheels, you are changing the overall height and circumfrence of your tires... This throws off your speedometer and odometer, and probably worsens the handling of your car..
More sidewall height might help the ride, but it also increases the flex in the sidewall during cornering...
Those aren't huge increases, but they are significant..
..."Goodyear LS on VW Golfs - much better tire than the tire rack ratings would indicate." ...
Just as another data point, I have reluctantly, albeit slowly come to this conclusion also. When I got my 2003 Jetta TDI, I was disappointed to have gotten last place oem GY LS-H over Michelin MVX (?) and/or Continental .
But at 54,000 miles or between 3/4 /32in consumed or 6/7/32 in left, (starts with 10/32 in new) I get between 13,500-18,000 miles per 1/32 in of wear. So assuming I change out the tires at 2/32 in, projected is between 135,000 -180,000 miles. From my perspective, I'd be tickled pink if I hit 100,000 miles. These 195 65-15 in tires have 44 psi max sidewall pressure. I run them between 38/36 psi fronts and 36/34 psi rears. MPG can be all over the map, from a low of 44 mpg to 62 mpg. Normal 50 mile RT commute with 80/20 highway/town and country= 48-51 mpg.
I am also weighing the pros and cons between staying with the (130 mph) H rated or switching to the (118 mph) T rated tires.
Reasons for the consideration are:
1. two categories, H and T will have more tires and brands to chose from
2. in some instances, T rated tires are less expensive
3. T rated tires seem to carry a longer mileage warranty also.
4. So assuming the H and T tires last ONLY the warranty periods, the T tires are also cheaper per mile driven also.
My highest cruising speeds are below BOTH ratings of H (130 mph) and T (118 mph) Total weight carried will be MAX 4 passengers (150#s each) 600-700#s and 300#s in the trunk or total weight of app 800-1000#'s
I currently drive a 2001 Ford Taurus SES with tire size 215/60/16. My question is what tires do you all recommend for this car? I am currently riding on DOUGLAS TOURING tires that are at 5/32 and SUCK. These are the qualities in a tire I am looking for:
- Fantastic handling (I drive mostly curvy roads) - Smooth ride - Good in rain/snow
I have a budget of $400.00 and am considering going anywhere (i.e. Sears, Tire Discounters, Firestone, Pep Boys) to get the tires.
Why did I change sizes? To get a little - very little - extra tread width. The extra 10mm is only slightly more than 1/3 of an inch wider.
BTW, changing the first number doesn't have as much effect on overall diameter as changing the second number. There are tire and wheel size calculators that show you the percentage difference when you change tire sizing parameters. Surprisingly, changing the width (195=>205) without changing the aspect (height expressed as a percentage of width (60=60) didn't throw the speedometer out of kilter by much.
I have also been told that there are normal variations, from manufacturer to manufacturer, on tires with the same stated specs. Certainly the Kumho 195's I once had looked awfully skinny compared to the Goodyear 195's....
On a VW I wouldn't personally downgrade from H to T; unlike some other cars that put H rated tires on cars with speed limiters that would be suitable to T rating, VW has a generous (in excess of 118 mph, the T rating) governor. Although it might take an inning or two to exceed 118 mph....
Also there is lurking liability issue when you sell or trade in the car. It's a non-spec part with safety issues.
Finally, H rated tires are sexy and expensive anymore. When I search tire rack, there are T rated tires that cost more than H rated....about the only T rated tire that ever interested me was the old Goodyear "rain" tire (now replaced by the H rated, but only B temperature rated, Triple Tread).
I am more sympathetic to V and W rated tire owners who are looking for cheaper tires - in that category the price difference is different.
Best tire in my book. My Sentra drives like it's on rails and now with 11k miles on 'em...they look brand spankin' new. I do rotate them every 4k miles when I get my oil changes though. Just part of the tire store's service.
I think I will go with the Turanza LS-T - my local Firestone dealer says they are very smooth, crisp in turning, and offer 80,000 mile warranty. Not to mention, they are doing buy 3, get 4th FREE sale. Sounds like a winner on my Taurus!
I am looking for a good set of tires for my Chevy 2wd pickup. Consumer Reports said good things about the Dayton Timberline H/T. Anyone know anything about this tire? The tread looks good for on-road driving, which is all I do.
I was at my dealer this AM and checked out their tire specials. You can save up to $100 on Michelin and $50 on all the other tire brands GM sells.
As many have seen, Michelin is running a $50 Visa gift card promotion with the purchase of 4 new tires. GM dealers are promoting this as well.
GM dealers are also offering a $50 Kroger gift card with the purchase of 4 new tires. Brands included are Michelin, Goodyear, Bridgestone, etc. I don't know the extent of this promotion so call or stop at your local dealer's service dept and ask.
I priced a set of Michelin LTX M/S for my truck and their per tire cost was within 25 cents of Tire Rack's pricing when shipping is factored in. Their price on Goodyear Fortera's was a little higher than TR but the dealer was a bit lower on Michelin Cross Terrain's.
So if you're in the market for tires, don't forget your GM dealer. A $100 rebate via gift cards is one of the better promos this spring. Check it out!
I need to find some quieter tires for my 2004 Nissan Altima 3.5SE. Tires on now are turanza el42. Very noisy. Tire size is 215/55HR17. Would appreciate anyones' recommendation.
"Ford Motor Co. has become the first U.S. automaker to warn customers that they should replace older tires, even if their treads are not worn out.
Ford officials said the move comes in response to a growing body of research that suggests that tires deteriorate as they age and can experience tread separations and other failures, even if they look robust."
We're just about to replace the tires on my wife's Saab. They have a coupleof years of tread left at the low mileage she drives but they are 7 ys/o and I think they're due to be replaced anyway.
I had a set of these on my old 2000 Chevy Silverado. Please, if you have these tires check them out. The left rear lost tread and tire pressure about 6 months ago and cause the truck to roll @ 40 mph. Total loss on the truck, caused wife and kid injuries. Look especially for cracking inside the tread. Goodyear has claimed they are not responsible for the tire. The report stated something was hit with the tire and caused the separation. Believe me, this is not the case. The tires were 305/75/R16.
Tirerack says that upgrading to 235/50-17s will fit without a problem. In that size, I'd recommend the Bridgestone Turanza LS-Z. They are highly rated in their category of touring tires, and will probably be as quiet as you need them.
If you stick with the stock size (which is an odd size, with few to choose from), I'd recommend the Avon Tech M550 A/S. They are also highly rated, but they MIGHT be quieter than the EL42s, not too sure about that one...
I have a 2001 Ford Taurus SES and I wrote earlier about tire recommendations. I initially thought of the Bridgestone Turanza LS-T. Well, I have another tire in mind:
MASTERCRAFT Sensys-01 (T-rated, 70K)
The auto shop that sells these say there very smooth and handle well. They also run only $67 per tire, thus giving an OTD of $290 mounted, balanced, disposal, and valve stem.
Has anyone had an experience with this tire? Not just Taurus owners, but anyone?
Be real careful about tires for your car, they are a critical component of driving. Don't scrimp on a unknown tire brand just for the sake of $. I bought the Turanza's for my car, but I plan on keeping it for at least another 5 years hopefully. I had to buy a tire for the wife's car this week and since she really wants to get a new car within the next 3 to 4 months, so she says, I got her a private label tire. It's a Dayton tire, made by Firestone, if memory serves me well. I bought a set for my old Corolla knowing the car would be sold within a 5 to 6 month period...and it was. Had I decided to keep the Corolla for a much longer period of time, I would've bought the Turanza's for it also. My point really is to find out who makes the tire and if it's a reputable company, buy the tires. If you are unsure or don't trust the company and plan on keeping your ride for an extended period of time, spend the extra $ for a better tire and for the peace of mind...at least for me, my peace of mind is worth the extra expense..
"Responding to new research that suggests tires can degrade rapidly as they age, Ford and Chrysler will advise U.S. customers to replace vehicle tires after six years — even if there is no sign of wear — beginning with 2006 models."
Comments
96 Escort: altho it might cost $40-50, it might pay to take in your car to the tire shop and have them install long 2-2.5 inch valve stems...I did that on my truck, and putting air in is a snap...also, remember this forever...whenever you buy new tires, ALWAYS ask them for long valve stems...you would think they would do this automatically, but they will often use what the factory used, and that is the problem...why the factory doesn't change over to long stems is beyond me, but it makes life so much easier...I never liked the valve extenders, altho it is a cheap way to solve the problem, but I would rather spend the $10 per wheel and be done with it...
Actually, no, unless there is a "bottom" (hard pack or rock underneath). You can get the wheels so deep the chassis drags. In fact, you can get the wheels in deep enough that you don't have the torque to turn them! You want to float on top, with traction. A tricky combination to achieve. You have to drive like you have an egg between your foot and the accelerator pedal. The trick is to "air down" the tires to get as big a footprint as possible, or, use the cool (and expensive) track convertion "wheels" which give you a huge foot print as they are rubber tracks.
They've got Opportunity stuck in a sand (perhaps more accurately, dust) dune presently on Mars. "Up to the axles". He he. They've got their work cut out to get it out now! I hope they get it out, otherwise it will be a "fixed camera platform" from now on. ;-)
Although I had an alignment done immediately before I purchased the new wheels and tires, my friend insists that the wider tires on the larger wheels requires a new alignment because the chamber (and possibly the toe-in) will be off.
I say that the difference in width is negligible enough (approximately an inch, in English) that the fresh alignment done before installation will be fine.
Experts? Help! :confuse:
I think you're agreeing you do want wider tires for sand. Your reply to the quote you selected made it look like you were saying the opposite.
tidester, host
A shame too, 'cause I've seen the wheels on other small imports and they do look sweet. But I don't want to open a can of worms as I'm very happy with the way the car rides now.
The Sandman
Go for 'em...I'm so happy I did. The Sentra came with the R92's I think...horrible tire but Nissan probaly got a great deal on 'em. I've seen them on alot of other makes also.
The Sandman
2. GY Comfort Tread
3. GY Triple Tread
4. BFG Traction T/A
5. Toyo Ultra 800
These tires are all T rated (vs a S rating for the oem fitment).
I have had other Bridgestone and GY tires. I was very underwhelmed till recently! I think both companies are successfully reversing the southern trend and delivering best of breed products.
I'd appreciate other data points or even recommendations not on the list!
On our '01 Altima, I went from 205/60/15 to 205/65/15 and felt that the car drove so much better. The car normally comes with the 195/65/15, but we got the GXE Ltd. Edition model and had the upgrade from the factory. On the sales slip from the tire store, they even wrote down that the customer wanted a different size tire so as to cover their as-es if something happened later on down the road. Couldn't blame them for that though with people sueing (?) left and right in the U S.
The Sandman
I have a 99 Yukon with Bridgestone Lt245/75/16 - Load range C tires - I am going to replace them but my question is this - it is hard to find that same load range, most tires seem to have a load range E - Some guys have told me I should just go with P tires - but I do tow a 6x10 trailer sometimes and a small boat - My question is - Should I stay with the LT tires and if so - will the ride from E load tires be rougher? I like the ride of my truck now and don't really want it to be alot different, some guys told me the E tires would be really bouncy compared to the Cs I have now. Anyway - any help from anyone who has experience with this would be great!
red
Put in a more scientific way - Tire stiffness is more a function of inflation pressure than the tire itself.
Hope this helps.
That won't be bad for the tires - if I under inflate them? Also, on my Bridgestone duellers is says to inflate to 35psi - but I have read where most people say that load C tires should be higher?
But load E tires at a lower inflation range would be alright for everything?
red
You will not be underinflating them - you're using the pressure that's appropriate for the load.
If I've read the chart right, your placard should say 45 psi. If I remember right, the placard on a GM truck is on the driver's door (maybe the driver's doorpost). Check this as there may be a problem here!
I say that because I think your B/S's should say 50 psi max. If they say 35 max, then you have P metric tires (starts with the letter P) instead of LT metrics (starts with the letter LT). And, yes, LT's need to be inflated to higher pressures than the dimensionally similar P metrics (and Euro metrics, too!)
Hope this helps.
You are right - the BSs say 50psi - while on my door is says P tires inflated to 35psi - So I have been under inflating the tires I have now to 35?? Guess it has been working??? Didn't know they had to be up to 50 - or is that just if you want to be able to do a bigger load?
Thanks for your help - but due to my confusion I am more confused than ever ehehehehe -
red
In order to carry the same load an LT245/75R16 needs 47 psi. GM probably included some round off procedure in their calculation, so for practical purposes they used 45 psi for LT245/75R16's - which is what would appear on the placard if the vehicle had come with the LT tires.
Certainly using 50 psi in an LT245/75R16 would be acceptable.
And, yes, 35 psi would be too low for an LT245/75R16. But if you didn't load the truck very often, you might not experience any problems. However, it certainly isn't the best practice.
Just for those who are following this thread: What is written on the sidewall of a tire is NOT a pressure recommendation by the tire manufacturer. It is a limiting factor based on standard tables for the particular size and load range involved.
Hope this helps.
Other interesting thing is the Firestones cost over $10 less than BFGoodrichs. Go figure.
Anyway, any suggestions or comments?
Thanks in advance.
It's not so important what pressure you wind up with. What's important is what you start off with. That's because the tire load standards are based on deflection, which is a function of the cold (starting) inflation pressure.
I'm not sure why the tire shop insists on putting 35 psi in - perhaps it's because this will always be enough pressure - but you can always reset the pressure after you leave the shop and avoid the discussion altogether!.
Just a word of caution: My experience is that the guys at the shop level have many misconceptions, so you should take what they say with a grain of salt (maybe the whole shaker!).
Hope this helps.
I have a LeSabre with recommended pressure of 30 pounds also. I usually ran the 98's General tires at 33-35. BUT those were a very soft-riding tire and they roll easily for good mileage on the standard LeSabre. When I put Michelin X-Ones on, I find that 32-31 is generally better riding.
On the newer LeSabre with 60 profile Michelin Symmetry tires, I run at 33-34 but it rides much rougher. I like that for trips and higher speed driving, but around town it's better to use 31. But that wears the edges faster.
Be sure your own gauge is close to 'right' pressure, +/- 1 pounds. I have three gauges, a metal round gauge from KMart $10, a plastic round gauge $6 KMart, and a pencil gauge $1. They read one pound different so I use the average.
Set your tires how you like the feel for your driving.
In hot weather the tires heat up more at higher speed and the increased pressure then lowers the heat buildup. If you drive more at lower speeds, or colder climate, you can decide if it's worth the tire wear to use lower pressure.
The most important care item is to rotate them every 6-7 thousand miles and rebalance regularly. They wear unevenly on the rear especially. So getting them rotated around using the modified X method keeps the tires from getting uneven wear (like my two X-Ones have). I hope you got a lifetime rotation and balance as part of the purchase price.
Nitrogen--forget it. Nice sales gimmick. In our area the nastiest tire chain out of Cincinnati started that months ago. I would rather just have had integrity in handling my alignment problems with the 98 LeSabre. I nitrogen after they started. If you are a semi truck driver and buy tires that you keep for 500,000 miles with retreading, it might make a difference in longevity of your rubber. Myself I don't run my Michelins that long. X-Ones have 85 K and 25% of tread left on two. They'll go by end of summer for new Harmony tires like the other two.
The best air to use if "free" air at the service station.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Ensuring there is little water vapour in the tires will reduce corrosion (if that was ever a problem), and may affect the pressure vs. temp. function a little - but only if some of the water condenses. Then you have the additional effect of the water evaporating and condensing dependant on temp. If there is only a little water vapour (stays in vapour form), then it acts just like any other gas. If you think the water vapour has a large effect, let me remind you that here in Edmonton, almost all of it freezes in the winter. If it had a large effect the tire pressure should drop dramatically. It doesn't. It still follows Boyles law.
After checking around and reading tirerack reviews, I recommended the same Firestones for my uncle's '99 Ford Ranger 2WD... It was basically used as a "grocery getter", and he wanted a nice ride...
Bottom line.. He hated them.. said they rode like rocks..
Just one person's opinion, but on the same vehicle you have..
regards,
kyfdx
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Falken are made by Sumitomo Tire of Japan; Sumitomo's tires are sold at Sear's, Falken's are sold by smaller tire shops (for the tuner crowd, mostly, and a few CR readers) and by at least one big chain (America's Tire Store).
If I notice anything better or worse than ordinary, I will report back.
Past tires I have known:
Goodyear LS on VW Golfs - much better tire than the tire rack ratings would indicate.
Dunlop Sport A2's - not nearly as good as the tire rack ratings would indicate, less grip than Goodyear LS and squealed on curves.
Bridgestone 950's - the standard for high performance all season, not as smooth as the Falken's or a quite as Kumho Ecsta HP 716's.
Kumho 716's - quietest tires I have had, but more of a touring than high performance tire - grip well enough, but turn in response isn't as good as 950's. Replaced by Solus KH-16 in early 2005.
BF Goodrich T/A - rated as touring, but felt high performance on a Neon.
BF Goodrich Traction T/A V-rated - one of the worst tires I have had. The V rated version was a close size replacement (Plus 0) for the stock, slightly larger tires on a later Neon. They had the best turn in and grip of any tires I have had, but the worst noise and ride; their big flaw, though, was a severe tire pull to the right that couldn't be cured by any number of tire swaps and rotations. I have heard that the H rated version doesn't suffer these problems (or have this degree of handling performance.)
On my car, I wanted to go from a 195/60/15 to a 195/65/15, as I prefer a taller side wall for a smoother ride. My friend who's the manager there told me to keep the original size for my Sentra and I did follow his advice eventhough I still wanted the 65 series. He said it was better to stay with the 60 series and stated that the car was engineered for that particular size. But on the wife's car, the change makes her car drive smoother than when it was new with the oem tires.
Can anyone give me an easy to understand answer to this sizing question? I figured even my car would ride smoother with the 65 series also? Am very confused here?
The Sandman :confuse:
More sidewall height might help the ride, but it also increases the flex in the sidewall during cornering...
Those aren't huge increases, but they are significant..
regards,
kyfdx
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Just as another data point, I have reluctantly, albeit slowly come to this conclusion also. When I got my 2003 Jetta TDI, I was disappointed to have gotten last place oem GY LS-H over Michelin MVX (?) and/or Continental .
But at 54,000 miles or between 3/4 /32in consumed or 6/7/32 in left, (starts with 10/32 in new) I get between 13,500-18,000 miles per 1/32 in of wear. So assuming I change out the tires at 2/32 in, projected is between 135,000 -180,000 miles. From my perspective, I'd be tickled pink if I hit 100,000 miles. These 195 65-15 in tires have 44 psi max sidewall pressure. I run them between 38/36 psi fronts and 36/34 psi rears. MPG can be all over the map, from a low of 44 mpg to 62 mpg. Normal 50 mile RT commute with 80/20 highway/town and country= 48-51 mpg.
I am also weighing the pros and cons between staying with the (130 mph) H rated or switching to the (118 mph) T rated tires.
Reasons for the consideration are:
1. two categories, H and T will have more tires and brands to chose from
2. in some instances, T rated tires are less expensive
3. T rated tires seem to carry a longer mileage warranty also.
4. So assuming the H and T tires last ONLY the warranty periods, the T tires are also cheaper per mile driven also.
My highest cruising speeds are below BOTH ratings of H (130 mph) and T (118 mph) Total weight carried will be MAX 4 passengers (150#s each) 600-700#s and 300#s in the trunk or total weight of app 800-1000#'s
Questions, Criticisms ,Comments, Information?
I currently drive a 2001 Ford Taurus SES with tire size 215/60/16. My question is what tires do you all recommend for this car? I am currently riding on DOUGLAS TOURING tires that are at 5/32 and SUCK. These are the qualities in a tire I am looking for:
- Fantastic handling (I drive mostly curvy roads)
- Smooth ride
- Good in rain/snow
I have a budget of $400.00 and am considering going anywhere (i.e. Sears, Tire Discounters, Firestone, Pep Boys) to get the tires.
Any recommendations please help!
THANKS!
- Alex
BTW, changing the first number doesn't have as much effect on overall diameter as changing the second number. There are tire and wheel size calculators that show you the percentage difference when you change tire sizing parameters. Surprisingly, changing the width (195=>205) without changing the aspect (height expressed as a percentage of width (60=60) didn't throw the speedometer out of kilter by much.
I have also been told that there are normal variations, from manufacturer to manufacturer, on tires with the same stated specs. Certainly the Kumho 195's I once had looked awfully skinny compared to the Goodyear 195's....
Also there is lurking liability issue when you sell or trade in the car. It's a non-spec part with safety issues.
Finally, H rated tires are sexy and expensive anymore. When I search tire rack, there are T rated tires that cost more than H rated....about the only T rated tire that ever interested me was the old Goodyear "rain" tire (now replaced by the H rated, but only B temperature rated, Triple Tread).
I am more sympathetic to V and W rated tire owners who are looking for cheaper tires - in that category the price difference is different.
I seriously doubt they will fit in your budget... Probably closer to $525 for a set on the car..
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The Sandman
Thanks!
- Alex
I suggest tirerack.com. They've got a lot to choose from in that size, in many different performance levels as well...
The Sandman
And they, the wheels/tires, seem so small next to my vw touareg. Can I put larger wheels/tires on this vehicle? What is involved, here?? Thanks
deb
As many have seen, Michelin is running a $50 Visa gift card promotion with the purchase of 4 new tires. GM dealers are promoting this as well.
GM dealers are also offering a $50 Kroger gift card with the purchase of 4 new tires. Brands included are Michelin, Goodyear, Bridgestone, etc. I don't know the extent of this promotion so call or stop at your local dealer's service dept and ask.
I priced a set of Michelin LTX M/S for my truck and their per tire cost was within 25 cents of Tire Rack's pricing when shipping is factored in. Their price on Goodyear Fortera's was a little higher than TR but the dealer was a bit lower on Michelin Cross Terrain's.
So if you're in the market for tires, don't forget your GM dealer. A $100 rebate via gift cards is one of the better promos this spring. Check it out!
Tires on now are turanza el42. Very noisy. Tire size is 215/55HR17.
Would appreciate anyones' recommendation.
Ford officials said the move comes in response to a growing body of research that suggests that tires deteriorate as they age and can experience tread separations and other failures, even if they look robust."
Replace tires every 6 years, Ford warns (Chicago Sun-Times)
Steve, Host
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Avon M550 A/S
Toyo Proxes TPT
Thanks,
btenvy
Tirerack says that upgrading to 235/50-17s will fit without a problem. In that size, I'd recommend the Bridgestone Turanza LS-Z. They are highly rated in their category of touring tires, and will probably be as quiet as you need them.
If you stick with the stock size (which is an odd size, with few to choose from), I'd recommend the Avon Tech M550 A/S. They are also highly rated, but they MIGHT be quieter than the EL42s, not too sure about that one...
Again, it's only my suggestion... Good luck!
I have a 2001 Ford Taurus SES and I wrote earlier about tire recommendations. I initially thought of the Bridgestone Turanza LS-T. Well, I have another tire in mind:
MASTERCRAFT Sensys-01 (T-rated, 70K)
The auto shop that sells these say there very smooth and handle well. They also run only $67 per tire, thus giving an OTD of $290 mounted, balanced, disposal, and valve stem.
Has anyone had an experience with this tire? Not just Taurus owners, but anyone?
Thanks!
- Alex
My point really is to find out who makes the tire and if it's a reputable company, buy the tires. If you are unsure or don't trust the company and plan on keeping your ride for an extended period of time, spend the extra $ for a better tire and for the peace of mind...at least for me, my peace of mind is worth the extra expense..
The Sandman
link
Steve, Host
"Responding to new research that suggests tires can degrade rapidly as they age, Ford and Chrysler will advise U.S. customers to replace vehicle tires after six years — even if there is no sign of wear — beginning with 2006 models."
Old Tires Are Risky, Automakers Will Tell Consumers (Inside Line)
Steve, Host