OK, I just don't want anyone to burn any bridges with a dealer, if they offer a bad price ask for a lower price or walk away, don't get mad, nobody wins when people get mad.
You're right. I'm only suggesting that people develop sufficient working knowledge of their own vehicles in order to be able to challenge a dealer when they go over the line on service suggestions. For example, my dealer wanted $79 for a serpentine belt replacement. I bought one on line from St Charles Isuzu for $17 and put it on myself in five minutes.
I've done a search, but I wanted to make sure I have this right. I have a 1998 Trooper S, 4wd SOTF variety. I am about to buy Old Man Emu SHocks, and my mechanic tells me that the N15/N65 part number designations are for either 1997 and prior Troopers and/or a generic shock number, so...What I want to know is, which goes where, N15 = front? N65 = rear? and they do in fact work on a 1998, right? And these "expedition" springs...they can't find them. Are they the heavy duty ones? Stiff?
You can search this discussion, I have posted this before. I am fairly sure, N65 front, n15 rear. Great set of shocks. The fronts are different than the rear due to spring rates and vehicle weight (i.e. engine). I added them to my 1999. The 1999/1998's were fairly identical. I would think these shocks would work on anything from 1992 on.
These are fantastic shocks...at least I have found them to be. Far better than stock.
rocky-road.com and 4x4connection.com will match prices (at least they were willing to a few years back, so call around.
Please I would like to know the location of the ALDL diagnostics connector location on my Isuzu Trooper '94 V6. Also where is the Rr ABS and Air Bag diagnostics connectors located?
Siphen it out into approved fuel containers. Ask a local gas station or auto repair shop to help you dispose of the waste fuel, maybe this mix of petrol and diesel can be used in a simple engine like a lawn mower. .. Ask a Trooper mechanic and this discussion how much petrol can be tollerated in with diesel fuel. If might be OK to have a little petrol in there.
Finally put some new wheels on the 2001 Trooper. I went with these: http://www.nitrotruckwheels.com/sfImages.large/78.jpg Stock offset is about +40mm. I did find some that were +20mm. The Nitro's are 0mm. I went with 16/8 and 255/70-16 and Toyo Open Country ATs. Good treadwear rating of 500/a/b, so we'll see. The rims and tires come right to the edge of the fender flares when looking from the top.
I was concerned that the lack of offset would push the tires out too far, but it looks and handles fine.
I almost went for 17's as I can get 245/65-17 in a traction / off-road type tread. The 255/70-16 and the 245/65-17 are right at stock diameter. I went with stock height for gearing.
Rims . . . I like 'em. Good job! I just put 255/70/16's on my '01 LS's stock mesh alloys about 2 weeks ago, and really like the look / feel. Small differences from OEM 245's, but still a noticeable improvement.
New Yokohama G051 are as quiet as new Revos. You can hear the wind over the tread a little and that's all. I can hear other nearby cars tires now. .. I've had 265/70R16's on there since last week. I like them more and more. I have noticed that from ten feet away the G051's look like they have a sporty tread with noticeable lugs, compared to the LTX M/S that look like highway only rib tires from ten feet away. .. I have become used the the feel of the new tires and I like it well enough. I still think the Revos offer better road feel and tighter handling, but I wonder if that was because my Revos were down to the wear bars and therefore had better handling because of no tread flex. .. I bumped a curb while parking with the right front tire, I expected a sidewall scub, but it climbed right up the curb and rested on top. The tire tread stayed flat even though only about an inch of the tread was supporting that corner of my Trooper. I backed it off the curb just in case leaving it that way would put damaging stress on it. .. The difference bewteen the Yokohama G051 255/70R16 and 265/70R16 is more than I expected. The 255 has a 41 psi rating and a higher load capacity than the 265. The extra tread width of the 265 is all in the middle section, the shoulders are the same. The 265 has a much more open lug pattern and larger lugs, which I was pleased to see since I do want to be able to go off road from time to time. .. I think the G051 would work well off road except in the deep loose mud or similar. Revos would be much better off road. .. I hate to say it, but I might just keep the Yokohama G051 for the distance. I had them installed out of curiosity to try them out at low risk with the 30 day buy back. To swap to Revos would cost me $40 a tire (because the Revos cost $40 more than G051s) x 5 tires and mounting fees and government tax differences etc... So nearly $300 to swap to Revos. Revos are the best tire I have ever used, but they got noisy at the end of their tread. The G051 are great too, and at much lower cost. .. Next, I will see about getting a picture taken with a LT245/75R16 Revo tire next to a P265/70R16 G051. On paper the LT245/75 Revo is the same hight and 0.3 inches narrower in tread than the P265/70 G051. The LT Revo has more tread depth and runs 50 psi which would be great for off road and towing respectively.
I ran a search through this board on your behalf, and I only found references to '98 and newer models. I would think that a thorough Internet search might turn up something.
And, just so there's no misunderstanding, I have no affiliation with the web site whose URL I posted. I will, however, accept a donut as gratitude for my effort. :-)
I am debating, Taking the stereo and CB out, putting the old tires and bumper back on the Trooper and trading it in for a replacement truck...or sinking the $1000-1500 to fix the transfer case issues I am having on my 1999. I really want a solid offroader, so if I got anything it would be a used Toyota LC most likely. I like the Isuzu, but have no confidence in it getting fixed correctly or what the next problem will be.
Sort, of. I looked on ebay. I also read rebuilt transmission sites. Everything I have read recommends rebuilding your existing drivetrain than purchasing a rebuilt or different one. So I am assuming cost of rebuilding mine will be over $1000. I don't have estimates at this point. With 38,000 miles on my truck and a spent transfer case, I am concerned about the transmission going next. Replacing both...let's say at most $3000 is still less than car payments over 3 years. But having a rock solid truck that doesn't brake down someplace is worth something too.
Interesting . . . not only have I seen no donuts, I have received no "thank you" from vcaceres either. I'll think twice before expending a lot of effort again on behalf of a new poster on this board.
He hasn't logged in today to see your earlier post, but thanks on behalf of the other early Trooper owners who may find your post searching for the same problem in the months to come.
It's a tough choice. The problem with the Trooper is resale value. If you put $3K into it, you'll never get it back if you sell it - or even part of it. I think Rodeos have a better resale percentage! With a Land Cruiser, at least the resale value is a far higher percentage. Of course, ANY repair on a modern vehicle is expensive. So, if something goes on the LC, you're out pretty big bucks too. Rebuild a Honda/Acura 5sp-automatic is something-like $4K at the dealer.
I'm on my third Trooper. No one I know personally has had any troubles. Right now, I'm thinking of keeping the Trooper until it disintegrates. "Hopefully" I'll have no major troubles with it. Of course, I only have 25K on a 2001.
Personally, I'm in a dilemma as well. Not a big Mercedes fan but I really like a used G-wagon. Three locking differentials....
Silverghost, great find on that 94 keyfob programming. Don't even own a 94, but I copied it for my file.
Just returned from a Houston / Dallas roundtrip. Pulled an empty 1250-pound U-Haul trailer up there, then drove back with about 300 pounds of furniture in it. My '01 LS 2WD got 14.8 MPG overall driving a constant 70 mph. I was duly impressed!
I have a 99 Trooper with just over 100,000 miles. It's been great (a few little sensor/computer glitches). It has always used exactly 1 quart of oil every 4,000 miles. Recently the light came on and stayed, oil usage went way up and it began idling rough, and shifting pecularily. Diagnoses was leaking intake manifold gaskets - repair cost $600. If I get the gaskets replaced, will that correct the shifting problem or have I skunked up my tranny?
I think this could also be the PCV valve sticking- a much cheaper and easier fix. It's a very common problem. It acts a lot like an intake manifold gasket leak - check engine light, rough idle, stalling engine, hard starting, etc. Mine started sticking when it reached higher mileage. You just need to clean it out a bit. This procedure has been documented on this forum. It's very easy to do. Once the valve moves freely, it'll run like new. I'd definitely check this out before you allow anybody to replace the intake manifold gasket.
My Trooper now makes me outrageous. It developed the following problems: (1) the engine stalls when I shift it from P to R or when my foot is off gas pedal. (2) when the engine speed reach 3000 rpm, CEL shows up, (3) after that, the engine idle speed stays at 2000 rpm level and the stall problem disappears. (4) when I disconnect battery cable and reinstall it, CEL become off and the idle speed comes back to normal. But the problem (1) happens again and new cycle begins.
I sent the car to the Bill Stillwell Isuzu in Downers Grove, IL and they told me I need a new fuel pump. Before I send the car back there again, they went out of business. So I have drive 20 miles to a Isuzu dealer at Orland Park, IL. This time, they gave me a even longer list: (1) Fuel pressure regulator (2) Distributor (3) EGR service (4) tune up (5) throttle service (6) Injector service The total quote is $1290 plus tax. Ironically, I just had the 90K service and got new spark plugs and fuel injector serviced 3 months ago. I think maybe I should seek second (or third) opinion.
My fellow Trooper fans, do you guys have any idea what is the real cause of the problem?
Sounds like there digging into your bank account, big time! And, yes, I would get a second opinion. But, please be specific, Peter . . .
First of all, what year is your Trooper? For what it's worth, I've never heard of a fuel pressure regulator going bad, except in an old BMW I once owned. But, assuming your Trooper even has one, it may well be a possibility.
Second, what "distributor" are they talking about? As most vehicles, Troopers haven't had an ignition distributor in years. If your dealer is referring to a fuel distributor, I seriously doubt that is the cause of your problem, assuming your Trooper even has one.
EGR service? That definitely could be your problem. Plugged EGR valves/lines (and dirty PCV valves) can create a host of problems, as documented all over this board.
Tune up? What are they including in that? Spark plugs and F/I service pretty much does it. You didn't mention who performed your tune up, or what type of spark plugs they installed, or what else they might have done. Improper plugs on many Troopers create another host of problems.
Throttle service?? I've seen other people mention that. What the H... does that mean?
Injector service?? Why?? You said you just had that done!
Get a third and fourth opinion if necessary. Sounds like they're rippin' you off. Get informed, man, and ask questions!
BTW, don't cry about having to drive 20 miles to a dealer. 20 miles doesn't even get you into town in Houston!!
In my previous post, I alluded to cleaning the PCV valve. While this may be an issue, in my post, I meant to refer to the EGR valve, not the PCV valve.
Throttle service may mean cleaning the throttle body which gets dirty from the closed circuit breathing. When I pulled the intake hose to the throttle body on my '00, a ridge of deposits had built-up around the butterfly / throttle plate preventing it from opening fully. I was out of sensor safe carb cleaner so I repeated actuated the throttle to scrape off the deposits. If there would have been a throttle cable, I probably would have noticed the throttle sticking. The side benefit is that my slight engine ping disappeared completely over the past 6 months - which makes sense.
Hi, silverghost and troop2shos, thanks for your comments. It is a 99 year model S. It keeps bugging me for a while. The problem began last spring, it was the CEL. At that time nothing else was wrong. I visited my local ISUZU deal for 3 or 4 times. First they changed Intake Manifest gasket. But the CEL came out the next day, later they asked me to dry better gas, so I tried any brand I can find in Chicago, later drive to Indiana to buy gas. But the problem was still there. The last time I visited them, they asked me to change fuel filter and fuel pump. I changed fuel filter. When I made my decision to change the fuel pump (they asked for $900), they went out of business. So I have to find another dealer 20 miles away. This time the sticker shock is even bigger.
So far, the intake manifest gasket was changed twice (at 20K and 80K). I also had 90K service at my local mechanic. they also changed spark plugs (they claim they are platinum) and serviced fuel injector).
According to Edmunds.com, the trade in value of my car is about $4000. Yeah, I am considering get rid of this car. I don’t think it is wise to through in $1000 for the repair that cannot guaranty solving the problem. But my wife had a bumper scratch accident with the Trooper last winter, I believe, the trade-in value I get should be less than that. We just got a Toyota Sienna in December. Now my wife tries to persuade to get a Camry. As you know, Trooper owners are the people who don't want to be mainstream. But after all these troubles with this Trooper, I have to think it twice before I get a new car.
The Trooper is sensitive to using specific spark plugs regardless if they're platinum. Some use Denso but I've run NGK for over a year with no problems. Since you report a high idle condition, I would pull the intake hose from the throttle body (or if you can check the throttle linkage outside the body) & make sure the throttle plate isn't sticking (not closing properly could cause a stall at idle) & it's a simple fix if it is. The other items mentioned in your list don't make sense / don't apply / NA with the conditions you report...don't trust this dealer as previously mentioned - find another shop (even an independent) if you need another opinion. I'm not one to be mainstream by owning a '70 Rover 3500s, '75 99 Saab EMS, 2 SHO's, my current Trooper & '04 Subaru Forester XT, to name a few...
I was expecting a bigger MPG loss going with these 41 lb. tires. I seem to be getting 1/2 MPG less around town (certainly no worse than that) and no measureable difference on the back country 55MPH highway driving. I haven't had it on the interstate long enough yet to check MPG difference at 70+ MPH, but I expect that at 70+ MPH, the lower engine RPMs might give better MPG than the smaller tires at least for steady long range trips. .. Two more weeks or so left in the 30 day "free" test drive to decide to swap these for Revos. So far, without any big plans for off-roading, I still thik I'll keep the G051's
Follow the intake hose from the air filter housing to the throttle body under the appearance cover which just lifts off its studs. Once you remove the hose clamp & move it out of the way, you'll see the brass throttle plate inside the throttle body (throttle lever rod enters through the left (driver's side) of the housing & opens / closes the butterfly valve / throttle plate. You can manually rotate the spring loaded rod to check for any extreme binding prior to removing the intake hose for a visual inspection if you choose.
Have the dealership check the "Mode Switch". It controls the pressure in the transfer case. When it fails, it thinks the car should be in "Low" gear. Had mine replaced a few months ago.
Also, don't be surprised if your Transfer Case is toast. Mine went out a 28000k miles. Had it teplaced under warranty and it went out again at 72000K miles. As usual, Isuzu Customer Care won't help out.
It's a shame. I thought I got a good truck for a great price.
It's time for new tires for my 1998 Trooper. I don't get offroad much, looking for a good all around tire. I did a search in the archives, but not much on brands etc. What do you all recommend for a good all around tire for the Trooper, preferably quiet on the highway.
Ah, the great tire debate... Just a quick search on tires revealed a lot of brand, model, load range & size info. You can also search TireRack & read their reviews & road tests. There are a lot of good all around tires - some designed more for highway use, some more weighted for all-terrain, mud, or ice/snow conditions. If you're looking for an all-season street or A/T type tires, you won't go wrong considering any of the following: B-stone Revo's or HL-D683's, Michelin LTX series or Cross Terrains, BFG A/T T/A KO's, Pirelli Scorpion's, Yoko Geo H/T or A/T, Kumho's, etc. The street patterns will generally have the lowest noise but there are several A/T brands that are also quiet with no whine (except for those with LT ratings). You just need to decide which tire fits the parameters of your definition / needs. Personally, another set of Revo A/T's will be mounted to my Trooper again once my current Revo's wear out (mostly highway use with some off-road duty - outstanding in dry, wet & snow conditions)...it's extremely rare that I ever go back with the same model tire.
And don't overlook the Firestone Destination LE tires. I'm not a Firestone fan, but I really like the look and feel of the 255/70/16's on my '01 LS 2WD. Tire rack has a ton of good feeback on them. Go back a few posts on this board for a little more info . . . $516, full boat, out the door!
Thanks for the input. After a bit of research, I became aware of the Kumho 798. It's supposed to be a decent tire for the bucks. (I always try to save a buck when I can). I noticed you mentioned Kumho's. Do you or anyone know why a person wouldn't want to go with these?
I think the Kumho 798's are an OEM tire for the Kia Sportage & Sorrento. Generally, but not always, a vehicle manufacturer skimps on the tire performance level to save a few $$$'s. Kumho makes very good tires but they have their lower line tires like the other tire manufacturers. For example, Subaru took the cheap route by putting the Yoko Geo G900's on the Forester XT which are marginal at best for the performance capability of this wagon. I will replace them soon. Kumho is best known for their ECSTA & VictoRacer 700 series tires. You get what you pay for (unless a brand name gets too big for itself) & the tire is the only thing between you & the road...I never skimp on the performance level I need but I do negotiate for the best value. The 798's may or may not meet your needs but I don't have any 1st hand experience with them.
Like the ol' saying goes, "no one ever got fired for buying IBM," no one really has been unhappy in buying Revos. I ended up buying the Toyo Open Country A/T tires and am very pleased. Where I bought my new rims, they didn't carry Bridgestone, but I had reviewed all the specs and reviews on the Toyos. I think there are a lot of happy buyers with these tires too.
They are very quiet and excellent traction on the street. Can't really break them loose in the wet. I'm confident for the type of off-road I do - down a dirt road for camping and fishing - they'll be great. Not planning any real rock crawling or mud bogging, getting too old for that. These tires replaced some Yokohama Geolander AT+IIs that I wore out in 28,000 miles. The only real downside to those tires was a tendency to wander on uneven roads. I would also say that the traction on wet roads is superior with the Toyos.
Only have 1,000 miles on them. The treadwear rating is pretty good, 500/A/B - the same as the Revos. 255/70-16, $117 per tire. Toyo offers a 500 mile/45 day tryout, so you can't really go wrong. http://www.toyo.com/tires/tire_lines/images/opat_sm.jpg
Your shifting problem may be unrelated to the engine problems. When the transmission range sensor gets gunked up, the trnasmission indicator on the dashboard may indicate inconsistently and the 2-3 shift can be harsh. The range sensor is a little module to which the shift linkage is connected. It is located on the driver's side of the transmission and is held on with two small bolts and one large bolt that goes through the center of the module. If you remove the sensor, remove all of the torx bolts holding it together, and clean it out with contact cleaner. I performed this service and it fixed the shifting problems. You can also just buy a new one and replace it.
If you want some pictures of the affected part, let me know.
hi dave and steve. my apologies, i just read right now your poster, i have sent in different forums and i got the solution of others, also is the same solution that your poster.
again my apologies and thank very much for answer my poster.
Comments
I've done a search, but I wanted to make sure I have this right. I have a 1998 Trooper S, 4wd SOTF variety. I am about to buy Old Man Emu SHocks, and my mechanic tells me that the N15/N65 part number designations are for either 1997 and prior Troopers and/or a generic shock number, so...What I want to know is, which goes where, N15 = front? N65 = rear? and they do in fact work on a 1998, right? And these "expedition" springs...they can't find them. Are they the heavy duty ones? Stiff?
Thanks in advance,
Jim
http://www.arbusa.com/old_man_emu_suspension.htm
More:
http://www.rocky-road.com/trooper.html
http://www.drivetrain.com/EMU/emutrooper/emutrooper92_02.html
http://www.expeditionswest.com/vehicles/ewvehicles/Isuzu_Trooper/
http://www.4by4connection.com/omesuspensions.html
..
I hope none of these is considered to be a competing discussion, cause if they are I'll get a note that my message didn't post, and you all won't get to check out these web pages. Do a search in your favorite search engine for "Isuzu suspension OME" or since OME is Australian "Jackaroo suspension OME" becasue down under the Trooper is really a Jackaroo.
..
Do not fear the medium stiff shocks are quite mild when going down the road, read about low pressure nitrochargers on the web pages above.
These are fantastic shocks...at least I have found them to be. Far better than stock.
rocky-road.com and 4x4connection.com will match prices (at least they were willing to a few years back, so call around.
..
Ask a Trooper mechanic and this discussion how much petrol can be tollerated in with diesel fuel. If might be OK to have a little petrol in there.
http://www.nitrotruckwheels.com/sfImages.large/78.jpg
Stock offset is about +40mm. I did find some that were +20mm. The Nitro's are 0mm. I went with 16/8 and 255/70-16 and Toyo Open Country ATs. Good treadwear rating of 500/a/b, so we'll see. The rims and tires come right to the edge of the fender flares when looking from the top.
I was concerned that the lack of offset would push the tires out too far, but it looks and handles fine.
I almost went for 17's as I can get 245/65-17 in a traction / off-road type tread. The 255/70-16 and the 245/65-17 are right at stock diameter. I went with stock height for gearing.
..
I've had 265/70R16's on there since last week. I like them more and more. I have noticed that from ten feet away the G051's look like they have a sporty tread with noticeable lugs, compared to the LTX M/S that look like highway only rib tires from ten feet away.
..
I have become used the the feel of the new tires and I like it well enough. I still think the Revos offer better road feel and tighter handling, but I wonder if that was because my Revos were down to the wear bars and therefore had better handling because of no tread flex.
..
I bumped a curb while parking with the right front tire, I expected a sidewall scub, but it climbed right up the curb and rested on top. The tire tread stayed flat even though only about an inch of the tread was supporting that corner of my Trooper. I backed it off the curb just in case leaving it that way would put damaging stress on it.
..
The difference bewteen the Yokohama G051 255/70R16 and 265/70R16 is more than I expected. The 255 has a 41 psi rating and a higher load capacity than the 265. The extra tread width of the 265 is all in the middle section, the shoulders are the same. The 265 has a much more open lug pattern and larger lugs, which I was pleased to see since I do want to be able to go off road from time to time.
..
I think the G051 would work well off road except in the deep loose mud or similar. Revos would be much better off road.
..
I hate to say it, but I might just keep the Yokohama G051 for the distance. I had them installed out of curiosity to try them out at low risk with the 30 day buy back. To swap to Revos would cost me $40 a tire (because the Revos cost $40 more than G051s) x 5 tires and mounting fees and government tax differences etc... So nearly $300 to swap to Revos. Revos are the best tire I have ever used, but they got noisy at the end of their tread. The G051 are great too, and at much lower cost.
..
Next, I will see about getting a picture taken with a LT245/75R16 Revo tire next to a P265/70R16 G051. On paper the LT245/75 Revo is the same hight and 0.3 inches narrower in tread than the P265/70 G051. The LT Revo has more tread depth and runs 50 psi which would be great for off road and towing respectively.
You could also ask an eBay seller if they will share the instructions with you.
Steve, Host
For instance:
http://www.keylessride.com/order/programming.asp
Unfortunately, that's a commercial site and you'll have to pay to get the instructions. I searched a few other forums, but came up dry.
You're welcome!
Steve, Host
Dave
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/picktoo/album?.dir=3a6f&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a- //pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/picktoo/my_photos
Internet research is a wondrous thing, indeed. With full credit to jlemond1 on another forum.
BTW, my price just went up to a DOZEN donuts!
Dave
Steve, Host
Thoughts? opinions?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7960310746&category=337- 27&sspagename=WDVW
Common courtesy, ya' know?
Dave
Steve, Host
My apologies,
Dave
I'm on my third Trooper. No one I know personally has had any troubles. Right now, I'm thinking of keeping the Trooper until it disintegrates. "Hopefully" I'll have no major troubles with it. Of course, I only have 25K on a 2001.
Personally, I'm in a dilemma as well. Not a big Mercedes fan but I really like a used G-wagon. Three locking differentials....
Silverghost, great find on that 94 keyfob programming. Don't even own a 94, but I copied it for my file.
de nada. I got lucky . . ..
My Trooper now makes me outrageous. It developed the following problems: (1) the engine stalls when I shift it from P to R or when my foot is off gas pedal. (2) when the engine speed reach 3000 rpm, CEL shows up, (3) after that, the engine idle speed stays at 2000 rpm level and the stall problem disappears. (4) when I disconnect battery cable and reinstall it, CEL become off and the idle speed comes back to normal. But the problem (1) happens again and new cycle begins.
I sent the car to the Bill Stillwell Isuzu in Downers Grove, IL and they told me I need a new fuel pump. Before I send the car back there again, they went out of business. So I have drive 20 miles to a Isuzu dealer at Orland Park, IL. This time, they gave me a even longer list:
(1) Fuel pressure regulator
(2) Distributor
(3) EGR service
(4) tune up
(5) throttle service
(6) Injector service
The total quote is $1290 plus tax. Ironically, I just had the 90K service and got new spark plugs and fuel injector serviced 3 months ago. I think maybe I should seek second (or third) opinion.
My fellow Trooper fans, do you guys have any idea what is the real cause of the problem?
Thanks!
First of all, what year is your Trooper? For what it's worth, I've never heard of a fuel pressure regulator going bad, except in an old BMW I once owned. But, assuming your Trooper even has one, it may well be a possibility.
Second, what "distributor" are they talking about? As most vehicles, Troopers haven't had an ignition distributor in years. If your dealer is referring to a fuel distributor, I seriously doubt that is the cause of your problem, assuming your Trooper even has one.
EGR service? That definitely could be your problem. Plugged EGR valves/lines (and dirty PCV valves) can create a host of problems, as documented all over this board.
Tune up? What are they including in that? Spark plugs and F/I service pretty much does it. You didn't mention who performed your tune up, or what type of spark plugs they installed, or what else they might have done. Improper plugs on many Troopers create another host of problems.
Throttle service?? I've seen other people mention that. What the H... does that mean?
Injector service?? Why?? You said you just had that done!
Get a third and fourth opinion if necessary. Sounds like they're rippin' you off. Get informed, man, and ask questions!
BTW, don't cry about having to drive 20 miles to a dealer. 20 miles doesn't even get you into town in Houston!!
When I pulled the intake hose to the throttle body on my '00, a ridge of deposits had built-up around the butterfly / throttle plate preventing it from opening fully. I was out of sensor safe carb cleaner so I repeated actuated the throttle to scrape off the deposits. If there would have been a throttle cable, I probably would have noticed the throttle sticking. The side benefit is that my slight engine ping disappeared completely over the past 6 months - which makes sense.
So far, the intake manifest gasket was changed twice (at 20K and 80K). I also had 90K service at my local mechanic. they also changed spark plugs (they claim they are platinum) and serviced fuel injector).
According to Edmunds.com, the trade in value of my car is about $4000. Yeah, I am considering get rid of this car. I don’t think it is wise to through in $1000 for the repair that cannot guaranty solving the problem. But my wife had a bumper scratch accident with the Trooper last winter, I believe, the trade-in value I get should be less than that. We just got a Toyota Sienna in December. Now my wife tries to persuade to get a Camry. As you know, Trooper owners are the people who don't want to be mainstream. But after all these troubles with this Trooper, I have to think it twice before I get a new car.
I'm not one to be mainstream by owning a '70 Rover 3500s, '75 99 Saab EMS, 2 SHO's, my current Trooper & '04 Subaru Forester XT, to name a few...
..
Two more weeks or so left in the 30 day "free" test drive to decide to swap these for Revos. So far, without any big plans for off-roading, I still thik I'll keep the G051's
Peter
Have the dealership check the "Mode Switch". It controls the pressure in the transfer case. When it fails, it thinks the car should be in "Low" gear. Had mine replaced a few months ago.
Also, don't be surprised if your Transfer Case is toast. Mine went out a 28000k miles. Had it teplaced under warranty and it went out again at 72000K miles. As usual, Isuzu Customer Care won't help out.
It's a shame. I thought I got a good truck for a great price.
It's time for new tires for my 1998 Trooper. I don't get offroad much, looking for a good all around tire. I did a search in the archives, but not much on brands etc. What do you all recommend for a good all around tire for the Trooper, preferably quiet on the highway.
Just a quick search on tires revealed a lot of brand, model, load range & size info. You can also search TireRack & read their reviews & road tests. There are a lot of good all around tires - some designed more for highway use, some more weighted for all-terrain, mud, or ice/snow conditions.
If you're looking for an all-season street or A/T type tires, you won't go wrong considering any of the following: B-stone Revo's or HL-D683's, Michelin LTX series or Cross Terrains, BFG A/T T/A KO's, Pirelli Scorpion's, Yoko Geo H/T or A/T, Kumho's, etc. The street patterns will generally have the lowest noise but there are several A/T brands that are also quiet with no whine (except for those with LT ratings).
You just need to decide which tire fits the parameters of your definition / needs.
Personally, another set of Revo A/T's will be mounted to my Trooper again once my current Revo's wear out (mostly highway use with some off-road duty - outstanding in dry, wet & snow conditions)...it's extremely rare that I ever go back with the same model tire.
Thanks again!
Kumho is best known for their ECSTA & VictoRacer 700 series tires. You get what you pay for (unless a brand name gets too big for itself) & the tire is the only thing between you & the road...I never skimp on the performance level I need but I do negotiate for the best value. The 798's may or may not meet your needs but I don't have any 1st hand experience with them.
They are very quiet and excellent traction on the street. Can't really break them loose in the wet. I'm confident for the type of off-road I do - down a dirt road for camping and fishing - they'll be great. Not planning any real rock crawling or mud bogging, getting too old for that. These tires replaced some Yokohama Geolander AT+IIs that I wore out in 28,000 miles. The only real downside to those tires was a tendency to wander on uneven roads. I would also say that the traction on wet roads is superior with the Toyos.
Only have 1,000 miles on them. The treadwear rating is pretty good, 500/A/B - the same as the Revos. 255/70-16, $117 per tire. Toyo offers a 500 mile/45 day tryout, so you can't really go wrong.
http://www.toyo.com/tires/tire_lines/images/opat_sm.jpg
If you want some pictures of the affected part, let me know.
Regards,
Tom
my apologies, i just read right now your poster, i have sent in different forums and i got the solution of others, also is the same solution that your poster.
again my apologies and thank very much for answer my poster.
post data: you will get your donuts, good job..