Isuzu Trooper

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Comments

  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Should I open this opportunity ...

    No, you should not. That would violate the Forum's Terms of Use.

    tidester, host
  • silverghostsilverghost Member Posts: 154
    Guess I'm a bit confused about your reference to the "Terms of Service." I presume you mean the Membership Agreement, specifically the section that deals with Promotions and Solicitations. I'm not taking issue with your statement, just curious how what boxtrooper suggests violates that provision.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Click on the "Member Agreement" link near the top of the left column on this page to get the full text. The relevant portion is under "Promotions and Solicitations."

    "You agree that, except with Edmunds.com's prior consent, you will not (either in your Postings or in your profile) solicit or promote any products or services, self-promote, or implore readers to take actions that are intended to further a personal purpose."

    If you have any further questions feel free to contact me by email.

    tidester, host
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    "implore readers to take actions that are intended to further a personal purpose"

    I guess most of the folks who love their cars are violating this part of it as I know more than one person who feels their car is their personal purpose! hah ahahahahaha

    j/k

    -mike
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    You're imploring me to laugh - now cut it out! ;)

    tidester, host
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    I specifically did not ask anyone if they would be interested in anything, I just wondered what their opinion was about "should I ask". It must have been assumed that I would use this discussion for solicitation, but I did not.
    ..
    It did get some responses. The discussion has been very dead lately, and I miss it being active.
    Thank You
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I specifically did not ask anyone if they would be interested in anything...

    And that is precisely why your post is still there! :)

    tidester, host
  • makayemakaye Member Posts: 81
    ...everyone is in shock that Paisan sold his Trooper?
  • pshewardpsheward Member Posts: 11
    CHECK light flashing under TOD - 02 LS 4WD - 74K. Is this low fluid or something more to worry about. Granted still under Warranty but need some assurance. Going to Nationwide in Timonium, MD only one left in the area that I trust.

    Replacing original tires this week will probably go with BStones again. 74K of all highway driving is the best thing in the world. Other then minor issue with TOD sensor, replaced under warranty, and the overhead light switch on driverside broke. I have had no problems.
  • silverghostsilverghost Member Posts: 154
    Email me.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    email? I did not know there was a way to specify an email here. That must have been added back when the login bacame my email address. Mine is there to see now too.
  • kbuchanankbuchanan Member Posts: 1
    The brake light on the drivers side was not working and changing the bulb failed to correct. I found a taillight assembly from a junkyard and replaced the entire unit. The brake light now works, but when you turn on the headlights the taillight does not come on. Any suggestions.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    My dad owns it but I still drive it on occassion. It's still in the family, so I haven't technically left the Isuzu fold!!!!! :) One of these days maybe I'll pickup a 97 rodeo used, used to love that truck.

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Pulled over 60 hours last week. First time I logged in over all week.

    Interesting on my ongoing TOD issue...the other night when it was raining my 4wd kicked in. I the transfer case was binding, I was in a parking lot. I had to stop and turn off the engine and turn it back on? I guess the short is underneath the truck. I am 1/2 way there.
  • makayemakaye Member Posts: 81
    Anyone trace the EGR passage into the intake plenum?
    I've seen where some engines split the EGR passage to each individual cylinder while others just dump the single passage around the throttle body.

    Has anyone removed the upper intake plenum or traced the EGR passages?
  • makayemakaye Member Posts: 81
    Hey makaye, I traced...oh wait...nevermind, answering my own question.

    Oh well, I found the end of the EGR tube is behind the throttle body. So, it's just a single tube. Should be able to open the throttle body, stick a long brush down the tube and clean the carbon gunk w/o pulling the top intake plenum off.
  • 95trooper95trooper Member Posts: 4
    2 weeks ago my 95 Trooper S with 134,000 miles began to feel like it was 'missing'. It does not idle rough, however when I try to accelerate, it does it very roughly. I can feel the Trooper kind of lurching as the engine accelerates, then pauses, then accelerates, etc. I have no idea how to describe this correctly. But something is not right. Any suggestions? Is that a spark plug problem perhaps? :sick:
  • makayemakaye Member Posts: 81
    What have you checked?
    Could certainly be a bad or dirty spark plug(s). When was the last time they were changed?
    With the symptoms you describe and having 134,000miles could also be fuel delivery; fuel filter, fuel pump, plugged or bad fuel injectors, or crud in the fuel tank.
    Dirty intake plenum, plugged air filter, PCV valve, EGR - many things. If the 95 has a TPS or throttle-position sensor, these are often the cause of drivability problems.
    Because it idles fine, I would less suspect electrical.
    If you have plug wires (don't know if the 95 had wires or has the coil packs directly over the plug) - check them, can certainly cause the symptoms you describe. If you have the coil packs, it could be bad coil packs. If you have a distributor - check the coil, distributor cap, rotor, etc...
    Could even be bad gas, if this is on the same tank of fuel.
    1995 was the changeover year for OBD1 to OBD2. Maybe there is a fault but it may not throw the check engine light. You may try going to an autoparts store like Autozone and see if they can pull a trouble code for you.
  • 95trooper95trooper Member Posts: 4
    Thanks Makeye. I haven't checked anything, I don't have a clue what I'm doing when it comes to it and I wouldn't know how or what to look for. One detail I left out was it doesn't do this until it warms up or after about 5-8 miles of driving. The plugs were changed about 70,000 miles ago. Also, the engine has been making a lot of noise from the lifters or so I'm told by the oil change guys. Its basically a rapid clicking noise that gets worse as the oil level drops. It drips out about a quart every three months. Not that its related or maybe it is, I really don't know. It's not bad gas, I've filled up and used about 4 tanks full since this started. Living up to it's name, the Trooper still gets me from A to B, but merging and taking off from stops, in particular if its going uphill, are a big problem right now. I wasn't even aware Autozone could pull a trouble code, maybe I will give that a try although I'm not sure what I would do with the code once I had it. Perhaps they Autozone dudes can offer advice if there is a code.
  • makayemakaye Member Posts: 81
    Fuel Injection vehicles typically have a "cold enrichment" circuit or injector that pumps extra fuel into the intake manifold - kind of like a choke on a carburetor. Since your vehicle runs fine when cold, it is possible that fuel delivery is an issue. What type of fuel delivery is the question. Dirty injectors is quite possible.

    I believe the lifter clicking issue may be fixed (helped) by using 0-30w Synthetic oil for several oil changes. Cleans the lifter passages. If you search this forum or one of the Isuzu Owner Club forums on the issue of lifters you should find quite a few hits on the subject. You may also ask in the main forums under maintenance or the like on your hesitation question.

    With the oil "leak" you may check to see if it is actually leaking anywhere. There is also an issue with Troopers of plugged PCV valves contributing to oil burning. EGR is also an issue. You can also search in these forums for this issue too.
  • stepmanstepman Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever find out what was the problem with your 99 Trooper ?
    On Nov 08, 2004 you said your Trooper had the following codes:P0137, P0157,and P1171. I have a 99 Trooper with the same three codes Lets see... the dealer has replace the 2 rear O2 sensors (twice), fuel filters, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump,PCM, and EGR service has been performed all within the last 6 months. Vehicle currently has 118,000 miles and runs very well especially after the fuel pump change. Please Respond! :confuse:
  • kobokokoboko Member Posts: 34
    Hello everyone,
    I have a check engine light issue. I have a "01 Trooper & bought it brand new in 2001. So far it has been flawless, 28000miles & no problems whatsoever. The "check engine" light came on like 2 1/2 weeks ago, i took it to the dealer who recommended cleaning out the intakes (carbon deposit crap), cleaning the injectors, new fuel filter & adjusting the throttle. after almost $400 i thought my prob was fixed, didn't consider it that bad considering all i had spent money wise last 4yrs was cost of fluid changes. Well, the CE light came back on like 5 days ago, after which my wife filled up the gas tank & it want away afetr a few hours. So i thought it might be a loose fuel cap. The light is back on again today. Any suggestions as to what might be the cause, i hate to have to take it back to the dealer only to get ripped again. do you think it might be a faulty gas cap, or fuel line issue? any help on this would be appreciated. thanks!
  • df2000df2000 Member Posts: 60
    Go to Autozone or Advance Auto, they will pull a code for you free, report code here, I will tell you what a factory manual recomend to check.
  • chadechade Member Posts: 14
    Hi,

    I own a 1993 Trooper LS 4wd with 170,000 km (100,000 miles). About a year ago my truck started to bog out when I accelerated. I did a major tune up. I changed: EGR valve, IAC motor, throttle sensor, O2 sensor, cat convertor, plugs and wires. This did not help my problem. My truck eventually came to the point where it was flooding itself. Last week I paid a GM dealer $2300 CDN to change my 6 fuel injectors because they were leaking. I got in my truck and when I started it, it was running rough. After it warmed up it was running not bad. Today I was on the highway and my check engine light came on. I came to a stop light and the check engine light went off and then back on again when I accelerated. When I put it to the floor the truck bogs and putters and I have black smoke coming out the exhaust. Ive been having that problem since the truck started acting up last year. I am so frustrated and im sick of paying people to tell me they have no clue whats wrong with it. I need help! Thank you for your responses.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    chade,
    Your black smoke means the engine is getting fuel, but not enough air. Is your air cleaner clean? Are the air passages clean? Is the intake to the air cleaner box clear? Is the intake staying in cold engine mode and resticting the air? Do you have the snorkel kit and a bird nest in it?
    ..
    Maybe too much fuel? Are you getting terrible MPG even when it is running OK?
    ..
    Maybe air intake valves sticking and not opening up enough? Has this engine been overheated or run out of oil?
    ..
    Does it bog evenly on all cylinders? Just one side? Just one cylinder?
    ..
    Is your radiator fluid level changing too?
    ..
    It could be a lack of spark so that the cylinders don't all fire. Is your battery fully charged? Are the ignition coils in good shape providing lively sparks at all cylinders?
    ..
    Once you find your problem and fix it, especially if it is ignition trouble, and you are buying wires and plugs again anyway, have a look at this web page: http://www.directhits.com. I had a set of directhits on my 1995 Trooper, they were a very big help for towing and the engine was more peppy and maybe a slight improvement in MPG in normal driving. The directhits are worth their cost (about $20/cyl) just for the quicker engine response. I am not selling anything, just telling a tale of my pleasant experience with a good money back guaranteed product. I had directhits in for 75000 miles. Towing a 4000# trailer went from 9.9mpg to 11.2mpg and after directhits it ran smoothly on cruise control while towing vs. hunting for gears before.
  • chadechade Member Posts: 14
    Boxtrooper:

    All of my air passages are clean as far as a I know. I will double check all of them tomorrow morning. How would I know if the intake was staying in cold engine mode and do you think that would cause the check engine light to come on? I do not have a snorkel kit or a bird nest, I dont even know what those are! When I drive the vehicle there is a strong smell of fuel all the time and my mpg is crap. The engine has never overheated or ran out of oil, although when the check engine light first came on i added oil and it went off for a few months. Id have to find out about the cylinders bogging evenly tomorrow so I cant answer that right now. Rad fluid is fine, battery is ok, I have a large stereo system but a good interstate battery. Im thinking if it was the ignition coils then it would drive like that all the time not just when I step on the gas.

    I really appreciate you helping me, I like the directhits but I cannot afford them. Thank you for your help!
  • bjd1020bjd1020 Member Posts: 2
    Nothing blows out when I turn the control switch on in my trooper its an 86 can anyone give adice?
  • streetlockersstreetlockers Member Posts: 1
    You've probably gotten your answer to this now; but for what it's worth, I have a 94 with almost exactly the same mileage; and I'm having EXACTLY the same problem. I couldn't have described it better myself. I really love the old truck and it is otherwise very clean and flawless. Took it to a mechanic I trust who is giving it a complete tune-up including plugs and wires, a new timing belt & accompanying kit with water pump, hydrolic tensioners, 3 power belts, coolant flush, fuel filter, differential service, transmission service,et al. The total price tag for all this? 1G! As I read your thread, I was reminded of a recall on a throttle cable??? Does that ring a bell with anyone? I've never gotten that recall done. Might not relate at all. Anyhow, hope this helps. Also, anyone have any suggestions for me while the mechanic is in there (right now 5/17/05)? Thanks!!!
  • chadechade Member Posts: 14
    I just had that recall completed, it is for a dust cover on your acelerator cable. If you dont get it fixed there is a chance that your gas pedal can stick in certain spots.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    Smell the fuel? Hmmm... I don't know how the fuel injection system works exactly, but, if it is a pressurized fuel manifold (a single large fuel pump that keeps a lot of fuel pressure on a large pipe and the injectors each turm on and off that fuel source maybe with an extra pressure boost at the injector), maybe the fuel manifold pressure is too high. Does the excess fuel recirculate back to the fuel tank well enough when the fuel demnd is low, but pressure builds up fast and causes too much fuel when you step on the gas and that eventually destroyed your previous set of fuel injectors?
    ..
    Check engine light could be from the oxygen sensor(s) telling you the engine is not burning all the fuel so the amount of oxygen is not correct.
    ..
    Can you take it someplace like an autoparts store and have them read the check engine code for you? I think the 1993 Trooper would have a standard ODB1 computer interface (1996 and later are required to have ODB2). There is an adapter available to connect your personal computer or PDA to an ODB1 or 2 interface, don't know the cost or source.
  • peterismepeterisme Member Posts: 68
    Hi, stepman:

    I cleaned the EGR and the stalling problem is gone! People in this forum saved me $1200 :)

    Sometimes, the CEL is still on and off. But the stalling problem never happened. The gas mileage is still poor (as usual) about 15MPG or less. The idle speed is kind of high recently. Maybe I need to get a new EGR.

    I may change my job next month and the new commute is about 35 miles one-way. This will kill me given the gas price here. My gas bill will be $250 a month. Getting a new car? New car payment + gas will surely > $250/month. Plus Trooper really gives me a great view in traffic.

    Now I need to get new brake pads for the rear brakes. The car is 87K miles and it is still the original. Do you guys have any suggestion? Tirerack.com sell brake pads. Is it worth to get hand dirty to install them by oneself?
  • peterismepeterisme Member Posts: 68
    Try cleaning EGR. I had the same experience before and spent hundreds at dealers. Finally, a $3 carbonate cleaner solved the problem. You can search the old post in this forum about how to clean it.
  • chadechade Member Posts: 14
    I can take it only to the GM dealership here in town, its the only place that has the software to scan my computer. The problem is that the check engine light only comes on when im driving the vehicle and goes off when I a m stopped. Is it possible to read the code while the vehicle is in motion? The explanation behind why I ruined my injectors is very understandable and I will bring that to the mecahnics attention at the dealership. I better not have to pay a single frinkin cent ill be so mad. I really appreciate your info. Im going to the dealership on Friday so if you could let me know about reading the codes before then it would be great! Thanks so much again, you have no idea how much easier you are making this ordeal for me.

    Chad
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    "Is it possible to read the code while the vehicle is in motion?" I don't see why not, the adapter to read the Trooper's computer should be small enough to hold in your hand, and it may be self sufficient or require to be plugged into a laptop computer to get the readings.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    You don't have to have the CEL on to read the codes. The computer will store the codes and keep them until it is reset by a loss of power. I think the problem is the O2 sensors as well. I had the same symptoms with my 1988 Trooper, and it proved to be the O2 sensor was unplugged. Plugged it back in after reading the codes and everything was FINE!!!.It could be the EGR as well, I've had similar issues with the EGR on my 1999 Trooper, and when it was replaced, the CEL was gone and performance was back.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    When I first read the parent message, I guess I assumed that the CEL was coming on while driving but no codes were being stored after turning the Trooper off. But you're right, the codes shouldn't be clearing themselves unless there is some kind of electrical problem that's wiping them out.

    Steve, Host
  • themthem Member Posts: 3
    Greetings all, and thanks in advance for your help. We have a '91 Trooper with the V6 (5-speed, 4x4) that has been, well, a real trooper for us since we bought it used seven or eight years ago.

    Our questions:
    A) How much does this vehicle weigh?
    B) Any idea how much the engine and other ICE equipment weigh?

    ...and a more subjective question:
    C) If you didn't care about the engine or 4 wheel drive, and the priorities were light weight (assuming a "glider" w/no engine), a manual tranny, general robustness/quality, and affordability/value, what years/models of Trooper would you be looking at?

    ...and one more question that we hope won't be taken as heretical (we LOVE our Trooper, honest!):
    D) How much does the 4-wheel drive system weigh, and is it integral to the drive train or removable?

    Once more, thanks in advance!
    - P&C
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    Well, those are some interesting questions. I won't try to answer all of them, but the one about which Trooper I'd be trying to go for, would be one past the 1998 model but not a 2002. The 2002 models appeared to be pieced together from left over parts and they didn't stay true to the color or interior materials, accessories schemes from previous years. I would go with a non-4X4 if you don't plan to do offroading, or live in a icy/snowy climate. I have a 4X4 and a 4X2, and the latter gets about 2 mpg better mileage. It is also quite a bit quicker off the line and feels stronger than the 4X4 model.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    was just done by my mechanic at 76,500 miles. He said the belt looked fine, with no evidence of excessive wear, or impending failure. He acted surprised that it had that many miles on it. Cost was $187 parts and labor.
  • 95trooper95trooper Member Posts: 4
    Over the weekend I changed my spark plugs and ignition wires and it seems to have completely fixed the problem. I noticed that 3 of the cylinders had very oily plugs so I'm not sure exactly what that means. Anway, changing the plugs was not so bad except for cylinder 6. My big problem came in when I put the wrong wire in one of the cylinders, went to pull it out and when I did that the rubber end broke off down inside the cylinder stuck around the spark plug! At that time I was about ready to set fire to it, put it in neutral and roll it down a hill. A day later, the folks at Firestone told me the thing to do is get a 90 degree pick and fish it out. Amazingly it worked. One shop I called said they would have to tear apart the engine. I spent $2 on the pick and managed to do it myself which was a miracle. Its been running like normal and problem free since I changed the plugs and wires which is the good news. Now the question is how long will I hang onto it before I sell it or trade it.
  • peterismepeterisme Member Posts: 68
    I think the timing belt is supposed to last 100K. But the price you got is not bad.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,248
    A reporter with a national newspaper would like to speak with current SUV owners who previously owned a more fuel efficient car. Did they buy the SUV several years ago when SUV gas mileage wasn’t a big concern? With the high gas prices now, are they rethinking their SUV ownership? Are they considering trading in or selling their SUV for a more fuel efficient vehicle? If you fit what the reporter is looking for, please email Kirsten Holguin at kholguin@edmunds.com by May 27, 2005.

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
    Review your vehicle

  • chadechade Member Posts: 14
    OK,

    I went back to the dealership where I got my injectors replaced and the mechanic that did the operation went over a few things. He tested the EGR and it was fine. He then hooked up a reader to the O2 sensor and the pressure seemed to be OK, it wasnt great but it was adequate. Becasue the truck was flooding itself he determined it may be build up in the cat convertor thats casuing the bogging. I have yet to remove it but I will if I dont figure this out in the next 7 days. As far as the CEL is concerned I found out how read the flash codes. I have located the white 3 pin connector under the dash. I was told to jump A to C and read the codes from the panel where the CEL is located. DOES ANYBODY KNOW THE EXACT PROCEDURE TO JUMP THE CONNECTOR? What do I use to jump it?

    And is it possible to manually check if the coolant temp sensor is working, and if so where is it located and what do I do????? Thank you to whomever wants to share some inside information to a hurting trooper owner!!!

    Signed,

    Desperate.
  • chadechade Member Posts: 14
    I read the flash codes and I got a 12 which I am sure means that everything is A OK which is a lie. I havent been this mad in ever. My CEL comes on when im on the highway and i pull over to read the code and I get a 12, sooooooo...........???
  • chadechade Member Posts: 14
    disregard that last message it was written with great impatience and frustration.

    I realized that you have to let the 12 code flash 3 times before you get the juicy codes!

    I got a 32 and a 44.

    Can anyone tell me what these codes mean for a 1993 Isuzu Trooper LS ?
  • sharktroopersharktrooper Member Posts: 7
    Just bought my second Trooper-a 98 with 68K miles. I was forwarned about the oil consumption problem, and MAN does it ever consume the oil--about 1 qt/500m without any telltale smoke. I'm wondering what the most recent "fix" is for this problem. I have changed oil with Mobil 1 5-30, added SeaFoam, and am now prepared to clean the EGR, replace PCV, and possibly have a cylinder soak performed to unclog rings. Is there anything else I should have checked out? Other than the oil consumin', I love this car and want to get it back to good health.

    Also, I have an option to buy an extended warranty on this car from Guardian Warranty Corporation. Any feedback pro or con (pardon the pun) on this outfit?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Also check out the Extended Warranties discussion.

    Steve, Host
  • themthem Member Posts: 3
    bsmart1: Thanks for the information. What is it, specifically, that makes you prefer the 99-01 models to the earlier ones? Again, I'm looking for the lowest weight as a "glider" (sans engine & other ICE components), and a good ratio of quality/value.

    Since my original post, I've discovered that our '91 SE weighs about 3700 lbs. Anyone care to hazard a ballpark idea how much the 2.8L V6 weighs? Also, just as a reality check - how does the Trooper compare to other SUV's in terms of weight - is it comparable? Heavier? Lighter?

    I'm also still trying to find out if it's feasible to convert a 4WD - and if so, how much weight might be saved by doing so.

    Thanks again to bsmart1 or anyone else who can help me out!
  • aperture79aperture79 Member Posts: 2
    Hey everyone,
    I just landed myself a 2000 Trooper, love it so far. That being said, I'm not the most tech savvy gal on the block. My keyless entry was working fine until I locked the doors from the inside lock/unlock switch on my out of the car. When I returned, I tried to unlock the doors with keyless remote thing and the horn beeped a couple of times and wouldn't unlock unless I did it manually. Now I can't get the unlock or lock to work from the remote and I have to do it all manually (the horror). How can I get it back to normal? There aren't any answers in the owner's manual. Thanks for any help!
    Rachel
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    My 1984 Trooper 1.9L (about 80Hp) 4speed manual (at 4200rpm all day did 1400 miles in 20 hours) two door (there were no four door Troopers in 1984) weighed 2900 lbs. or something close to that. 1984 provided 201K trouble free miles then I sold it to get a 1995 Trooper with air conditioning.
    ..
    What do you mean "glider" will your lightweight Trooper project go airborne?
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