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2001 Chevrolet/Geo Blazer - 2WD
Tail Lamp Replacement (Utility)
Removal Procedure
Open the endgate or liftgate.
Remove the screws that retain the tail lamp assembly to the vehicle.
Rotate the bulb sockets 1/4 turn counter-clockwise in order to remove the bulb sockets from the tail lamp assembly.
Installation Procedure
Install the bulb sockets to the tail lamp assembly by rotating the sockets 1/4 turn clockwise.
Install the tail lamp assembly to the vehicle.
Install the screws that retain the tail lamp assembly to the vehicle.
Tighten the screws to 1.9 N·m (17 lb in).
I have also switched my truck over from the dex-crap to green prestone. Don't let anyone fool you into saying you couldn't/can't. I'm going on a year and 7 months with no problems. You just have to make sure you completely flush it. I had a good amount of that "mud" come out when I did mine. I also found that my water pump was bad when I did it but that was an easy fix.easiest water pump I've ever replaced on a vehicle. Granted I feel like I got one of the shining stars but I swear by my Blazer. I just can't wait to trade in my old car for a newer grand am so I can give it to the wife and get my truck back.
My question to you is, can still be the solenoid? I thought that if it was bad, then you could not move the shifter altogether
Also, I replaced my transfer case three months ago, but when I press the button for 4Low the light flashes, but it does not engage in 4Low (light does not become steady. Do you guys think is a problem with the new transfer case? The other settings (2, 4High, 4Auto) work just fine.
Thanks,
R
1999 Chevrolet Blazer, 4-wheel drive, 2-door, 82k miles
While braking I experienced a “grinding” brake noise at the front of the Blazer along with the red brake warning light on the instrument panel. The Blazer was taken to Procare where they installed new rotors and replaced the front disc brake pads ($225). Amazingly this was the first time for any kind of brake service.
When I received the Blazer the brake warning light would still illuminate under heavier and faster braking. No warning light for slow, steady, gradual braking. The pedal feel was also softer than before the brake service. There was also some high pitched braking noise. The Blazer was returned to Procare where they replaced the master cylinder and completely flushed the brake lines ($325).
The brake pedal feel improved, but still the brake warning light would illuminate under heavier and faster braking. The high-pitched braking noise was also present. The Blazer was returned to Procare but they were unable to diagnose the problem. Procare sent the vehicle to a GMC dealership for diagnostic work. The GMC dealership indicated that the “Brake Pressure Modulation Valve” (BPMV) is the problem and that parts and labor would be $722. The Blazer is roughly worth $4500 as a trade-in so I am hesitant to put that much money into the vehicle.
To Procare’s credit, they are refunding $325 because they misdiagnosed the master cylinder as the problem. Procare also paid for the GMC dealership diagnostic work.
My questions:
Should the BPMV really need replacement at 82k miles?
Could something else be the problem, like wheel speed sensor, etc.?
Is there a recall or tech service bulletin for such a problem?
What should I do: Have a non-dealership mechanic assess the situation? Have a used BPMV installed? Put electrical tape over the light and keep smiling?
Thank you, I look forward to your responses!
-Thad
http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/brkfld.shtml
The Fuel filter is simple, easy, and inexpensive, cost less that $10 for a fuel fiter.
The Distributor Cap can't cost too much.
The Injector Unit is where the money is at. I havn't had to replace mine in my 99', but I do know that they eventually do go bad.
Good Luck.
Mine is a 1997 4X4 with 100K miles. I bought it used, but I imagine the u-joints are original equipment. I've recently replaced both LBJs, pitman arm, and idler arm. While the truck is definitely born again, there's one more vibration I'm trying to locate without further troubleshooting damage to my wallet.
A slight vibration in the steering wheel and seat occurs at ~35 MPH during acceleration, and by 45-50 MPH is sending a low frequency noise (LFN) into the cab that makes my ear drums reverberate. It's not as bad on the highway, but the LFN will return to a lesser degree when accelerating to overtake. Coming off of the gas eliminates it completely and coasting downhill in neutral is vibration free, ruling out a misbalanced wheel/tire.
I also have the classic "clank" when going into D or R, but know gears can make this sound too.
Sound like a u-joint or something else?
Thanks...Dave
Good Luck with this one. Let us know what you find.
E.D.
Despite my good words, I initially thought it might be the engine/engine mounts, but there's no vibration at all when I push the RPMs in Park. Having said this, and realizing I'm not a mechanical engineer, would the engine produce vibrations under load while producing none at similar RPMs at idle?
Guess it might not be as simple as the universal joints after all.
I searched this forum and seems as there is some form of gelling occuring. I don't see this in my coolant tank as well as I have no problem with heat.
One thing I noticed after driving for a while, and coming to the stop, I think I smell coolant. It seems as it is a slow leak on the outside on the engine block which is burning off. I hoped that die would help me find it but this was not the case.
Any ideas ? Thanks
2000 blazer here. I have a new twist on the wiper problem. My problem is that the washers / misters don't always work. Press the lever on the stalk and it is hit or miss (mostly miss). No fluid comes out and the wipers don't cycle on. Sometimes if I hold the lever down for a while (minute or longer) they suddenly spring to life and work. Could this be the familiar circuit board problem or is it more likely a short in the stalk itself? I'm thinking it might be the circuit board because I've noticed that the problem is worse if the truck is warm (any bad solder joints could have expanded causing failure) and recently I've noticed that if I put the wipers in intermittant and then try the washers while they are cycled on I can get them to work. Thanks in advance for any help or advice. Oh, and the battery light came on this morning and the guage indicates it is only charging around 10 volts... I've had most of the other problems listed on here. Why not the alternator too. Maybe it is just the belt tensioner.
My 1995 4x4 blazer shows that the front transfer case is engaged even after I shift out of 4x4 mode. It is a manual engage 4x4 system, and the light is on the diagram in front of the transfer case lever. My wife was teaching our 16 yr. old son how to drive in the snow with the blazer last week and put it into 4 wheel mode for a while. They cycled from 4 high to 4 low. She then shifted out of 4x4 into 2 high and the light is still on. I took it for a test drive to see if it is still locked and it is not. I then went through 4 high to 4 low and back to 2 hi and had no problem. I turned the car on and off several times but it's still on. Is the light staying on a cause for concern or damaging to the vehicle?
Thanks.
Good Luck,
E.D.
Has anyone had any similar problems to this?
please help if you can any advice is welcome
4WD Vehicles
Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely using jackstands.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
Remove the cotter pin from the ball joint, then loosen the retaining nut.
After separating the steering knuckle from the upper ball joint, be sure to support the steering knuckle/hub assembly to prevent damaging the brake hose.
Position a suitable ball joint separator tool such as J-36607 or equivalent, then carefully loosen the joint in the steering knuckle. Disengage the tool and the retaining nut, then remove the joint from the knuckle.
The 4WD vehicles covered by this information do not use shims to adjust the front wheel alignment. Instead, the upper control arm bolts are equipped with cams, which are rotated to achieve caster and camber adjustments. In order to preserve adjustment and ease installation, matchmark the cams to the control arm before removal. If the control arm is being replaced, transfer the alignment marks to the new component before installation.
Unfasten the front and rear nuts retaining the control arm retaining bolts to the frame, then remove the outer cams from the bolts.
Remove the bolts and inner cams, then remove the control arm from the vehicle.
If necessary, remove the retaining nut and the bumper from the control arm.
If the bushings are being replaced, use a suitable bushing service set to remove the bushings from the arm.
To install:
If removed, use the bushing service set to drive the new bushings into the control arm.
If removed, install the bumper and retaining nut to the control arm. Tighten the bumper retaining nut to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
Position the control arm to the vehicle, then install the retaining bolts (from the inside of the frame brackets facing outward) and the inner cams. The inner cams must be positioned on the bolts before they are inserted through the control arm and frame brackets.
Position the outer cams over the retaining bolts, then install the nuts to the ends of the bolts at the front and rear of the control arm.
Align the cams to the reference marks made earlier, then tighten the end nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm) on 1994 models. On 1995-99 models tighten the nuts to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
Remove the support from the steering knuckle, then install the ball joint to the knuckle. Make sure the joint is seated, then install the stud nut and tighten to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm) on 1994 models and 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm) on 1995-99 models. Install a new cotter pin.
When installing the cotter pin, never loosen the castle nut to expose the cotter pin hole, but DO NOT tighten more than an additional 1/6 turn.
Install the tire and wheel assembly.
Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.
Check and adjust the front end alignment, as necessary.
Has anyone have a problem like this, can someone give me an idea what causes the problem. I don't have problem with the tranny or pull/power of the vehicle.