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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • franklimfranklim Posts: 11
    Thanks again for the info! What are your thoughts on the possibility of any of the following items wearing out to the point of making a racket by 100k: cam, rocker arm, push rods, rocker arm studs, valve seals, valves, oil pump? Oil pressure seems fine, so it is at the bottom of the list. Rocker arms and pushrods have no bending or abnormal wear patterns so they are not at the top of the list either. It would be nice if it was as simple as replacing a loose rocker arm stud. I believe they are pressed in on the 4.3L and it would not take much slop in them to make a racket. What do you think about trying the following trick. One cylinder at a time, back the rocker arm nuts off on both intake and exhaust valves, start the engine and listen for the knocking sound to disappear. That would narrow it down to what cylinder it is happening on (given that the problem is in the valve train). If not valve train, this method would rule out the valve train and point to the lower section of the engine. The vehicle has had this issues pretty much the entire short time I have owned it so I am not certain how much power I should expect from it. My gut tells me that it should be making more power than it does when you put your foot in it. It is smooth when you do so (not what I would expect if the problem were piston-connecting rod related), just seems to take more time that it should to build up a head of steam when getting on the highway, etc. What gear ratio did they used on the 96 2wd models? No factory hitch, so I don't think it has towing gears in it.

    God Bless,
    Michael
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    While you're waiting for a reply here, you may want to check out Idle or Stalling Problems - All Vehicles.

    tidester, host
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Does the security theft light flash before it dies? Did you add a remote starter system? Passlock II systems have had a few problems so see post #2281 in this forum. Did they check your fuel pressure at the test port yet cause requires min 54psi running. How about any codes (SES light on). Look for knicked wires to O2 sensors or crushed fuel lines (run behind the trans)due to trans job. Did they check the coil output for spark. Any loose wires at the battery or below it to the junction underneath? Last, clean the MAFS sensor in the air intake housing (honeycomb structure) and carefully spray it with MAFS/brake/electronics cleaner (not carb cleaner). Let us know. Tough problem to resolve as you know when random.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Per that Anderson article:
    "Rebuilding these engines is pretty straightforward. The blocks seldom crack, except some of the 10227196 castings, and the heads are usually good. The cranks are another story, though, with about 30 percent down on at least one rod journal, usually toward the front of the crank. Cam mortality can be a problem, too, with up to 20 percent of the roller cams needing replacement."

    On the rear end I'd guess 3.42 but look in the glove box for the code:
    GU4 = 3.08
    GU6 = 3.42
    GT4 = 3.73
    GT5 = 4.10
    G80 = positraction also
  • momof7momof7 Posts: 8
    I am new to this forum, but noticed that this vehicle was having the same problems as my 93 Chevy S10 Blazer. It has the Vortec V6. Just stopped and acted like it wasn't getting fuel. Replaced both fuel relays, inline fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. Fuel pump cranking, but still won't work. Husband in Iraq, 6 kids and the only car, I need help. What am I missing?
  • divrdowndivrdown Posts: 3
    I do have a remote starter so I will check and see if it is off (I never use it). the wires by the O2 sensor have been checked, and I will check with the mechanic to see if he checked the fuel pressure at the test port and I will also have him check your other suggestions. I forgot to put in my first posting that the engine backfires and makes a popping noise when it stalls...I don't know if that will help...me and my mechanic are at a complete loss for words. They've had my truck for over a month now and all I wanted was my tranny to be done.

    Thanks
  • divrdowndivrdown Posts: 3
    Thanks for the link.
  • momof7momof7 Posts: 8
    Hey guys - I have a very similar problem with my 93 S10 Blazer with the Vortec V5 (4X4). Doesn't seem to be getting fuel, fire is good, fuel pump just cranking away. Replaced fuel relays, inline filter, and fuel pressure regulator, but still won't start. Ready to push it off a cliff. What am I missing here. Don't have much experience with these newer fuel injected jobs.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    OK, did you read the response #2208 about the CPI, it tells what it probably is. Its a V6. Running requires 54psi and start requires 60 psi. Search the posts. Let us know.
  • boba246boba246 Posts: 4
    Thank you very much repair dog for your help!!! Really appreciate it :)
  • dolphin1dolphin1 Posts: 11
    Hi,

    Since my last posting, I've had to replace both front wheel bearing assemblies. Thanks to Repairdog offering some guidence, I was able to replace them myself at a cost of $115 each through Autozone. Autozone also provides the bearing puller *free of charge* with a deposit! My woes continue though as my other front seat recliner lever has broken off, my battery keeps going dead, the intermittant wiper settings intermittantly doesn't work and I still deal with the erratic fuel gauge! I recently had my charging system checked out and it concluded that my alternator is OK. I am going to troubleshoot the "possible" short that I may have which is killing my battery. Other than that, Life Is Good!! :lemon:
  • momof7momof7 Posts: 8
    I did read the posting, however, it appears that I have done all but check the pressure. How is that done. Would I check it from the Schraeder valve on the back of the intake? If so, with what? A tire gauge?

    Thanks for the reply, it is appreciated. At least I know I am on the right track.

    Momof7
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Seat: Remove the 4 bolts holding the seat in, lift seat out, unclip the seat cover, replace handle, reinstall. Cheap and 1 hour to do. Under $10. DIY
    Wipers: known circuit card problem - Call dealer and run your VIN may be covered - or remove the 3 torx screws holding the cover on the wiper motor drivers side in engine compartment, remove card, check for burned or broken solder tracks then fix or replace card, clean if old card, reinstall with some silicon to keep water out on seal, do not overtighten as card will bend and crack again, good to go (card $50 most stores).
    Gauge: another wonderful GM piece is that integrated pump/sender and the new one has an enhanced (fixed) sender but have to drop the tank and the pump is $300 cost at Delco (best one to use)so look up your year at rockauto online and with the Delco # order it or call local auto store for their price on the Delco - they can order. Dealer about $450 plus $200-400 to install.
    Battery: Added a stereo youself that is always on (the amp part)? If not are the interior lights shutting off. Check the battery cable to the connector UNDER the battery tray then it leads to the starter - see if broken insulation and short - also the starter connection is really tight (4wd really bad) so look up there - remember to disconnect the positive cable when you do this all!! If fact use an ohm meter on the positive disconnected cable end to the frame or neg and see if any reading showing a short - should be open or infinite.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Not a tire pressure gauge - have to borrow one at the auto store for fuel pressure (should be free use).
    Do you smell any gas or see/smell on oil dip stick - if so stop driving until fixed!

    I pulled the info for you so heres how to check:
    Leaking CPI regulator and hoses (called a nut kit) under the upper intake manifold. You can remove the IMTV (Intake Manifold Tuning Valve) from intake manifold. Once the IMTV unit is removed, visually inspect the inside of intake manifold. The manifold and injector unit should be very carboned up and dirty. Any clean areas indicate a fuel leak internal to the manifold plenum. Most times this is caused by the fuel pressure regulator leaking fuel from vent hole in the regulator body. Other factors may be present (such as a cracked inlet fuel line) but usually the regulator unit has failed. If no leak is detected through the IMTV hole, but a faulty unit is still suspected then you must pull the upper plenum to get a full view of the inside of the intake.

    CPI was used until 96 when the newer spider type injection was introduced that has its own problems. Good luck.
  • freddi19freddi19 Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply. My first instinct was that it was my lifters, so I'm glad to hear I was thinking along the right lines!! You mention to try some lifter quite treatment and high mileage oil. Is there a specific brand?

    Thanks again!
  • momof7momof7 Posts: 8
    I did remove the plenum and replaced the pressure regulator. The inside was carboned up so it appears that there was no leak. I also replaced the fuel relays and the inline filter that lays alongside the frame. Do you feel that it is probably the fuel pump not sending enough pressure? I don't know what else to look at. I am not sure what you mean by a CPI regulator and hoses, is that the assembly under the upper plenum, or down farther under the lower plenum? Again, keep in mind I am a female and know only a little bit about these things. Sorry to sound so dumb, but am desperate to get this vehicle running. On the fuel pressure assembly, there is the regulator and then 6 lines that spider off of that appear to be the injectors, they look fine, but is it possible that one of those is damaged in some way? Thanks so much for your replies they are very helpful.

    momof7
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    I've used ValveMedic by Gunk before but they should all work. Oil is by choice again also but I use Valvoline MaxLife 5w-30 in my Blazers. Don't use the cheapest oil filters either go for an upgraded one ($5 vs $3 range)due to internal construction. My opinion only. Many posts online on these subjects and many differing opinions.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Maybe I'm confused but I thought you had a 95 with the CPI (central port injector) like a crab shape under the tall type intake and its got an internal set of 2 fuel lines called a nut kit (why,who knows)and not a 96up with the CSFI (central sequencial fuel injection)under a low black plastic cover and the 4" oval electrical connector with the 2 fuel rails (metal) that bolt to the top of it? Or is this an Extreme model? These are all good questions so keep asking cause I am only a Blazer owner like you but have 4 of them (kids too).
    Fuel pressure for both types is supposed to be 60-64 psi with the key on engine off per the articles on GM injection. Perhaps taking the Blazer to the dealer for an analysis would be the cheapest way cause they should know in an hour ($60-80)and give a written estimate to fit.
  • momof7momof7 Posts: 8
    Sorry for the confusion, mine is a 93 4.3 liter Vortec V6. The upper planem kind of looks like an octopus with 6 legs bubbling up. It is a multi-port system. That's all I know. I would take it to the dealer, but can't get it to start to get it there :) Thanks for all your help.
  • dolphin1dolphin1 Posts: 11
    Thanks again Repairdog! I was contemplating pulling the driver's seat, just wtg 4 a dry day out here in the Northeast! As far as the fuel gauge, I thought that I read a thread which talked about a possible bad ground? Like the other comment mentioned, thank God for the trip counter which I now rely on.

    As for the electrical issues, I will inspect the battery cables, put my multimeter on the cables and check for any connections from frame to positive and check for any unusual current draw.

    Not for nothing, but this vehicle has made me a very unhappy GM owner and the thought of spending hundreds of dollars to repair/replaced a pump/sender unit which obviously contains poor workmanship and high failure rates is not going to happen! *I just need to vent.* :lemon:
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    OK, so I looked back and you said when you turn the key on but don't start it can you hear the pump running. Those CPI units under the upper intake have a regulator and 2 hoses (nut kit) and both should be changed together or they leak and let down the pressure. Borrow that fuel pressure tester or get a friend to do it for you. You need 60 psi to start. This all assumes you have a spark top the plugs and the distributor is installed correctly and timing set. Sorry, I was reading the post title 95 and not the 93 inside the text.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Yep, have to do one on 2001 for the sender before daughter heads off. Done lots of seat handles - be glad they aren't electric as one of mine had a short in the seat and took out the switches and remote unit at $400. Come on, we have to keep the economy going don't we!
  • momof7momof7 Posts: 8
    Thanks. I am getting spark to the plugs, it lit me up too. I will borrow that pressure tester from AutoZone and check it. Maybe the pump is working but isn't pushing enough pressure?
  • The problem with my A/C was the ambient temperature sensor. I took it in to my mechanic and he read the fault code from the computer. Just wanted to report the fix in case someone else has the same problem.
  • smokey13smokey13 Posts: 3
    i have a 89 2.8 t.b.i with a wiring/fuel problem im only getting 8.00 volts with key on. new fuel pump exc. tested seperate on 12v work great just need to know why im only getting 8v it does not run the fuel pump.2 differet cumputers changed t.b.i. checked all fuses. i also need to know where fuel pump relay is and how to check it. :mad: ps i wish they never made this p.o.s.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    I do not have a book that old but only 3 locations to look at and are glove box, kick panel, or the firewall by the brake booster. Also seen info on the ECM fuse also in the pump circuit so check that too. Should be a single red wire by the brake booster for 12v test of fuel pump also. Let us know.
  • smokey13smokey13 Posts: 3
    hi i ran the red wire that runns the fuel pump all the way down near the fuse box and it goes behind the dash. i need a factory manual to find out where it goes after the dash unless someone can tell me. there is also a brown wire does that run the fuel gauge. there is no power to it what so ever? where is the pump circut i checked the ecm fuse in the fuse box. i dont now what else to look for. i found three relays by the break boster witch one is it. thanks for the help paul
  • jmac6jmac6 Posts: 2
    I own a 2001 Chevy Blazer with approximately 65K miles. Vehicle seems to be running fine. However, mechanic informed me that vehicle needs upper and lower ball joints and an idler arm. He also informed me that this repair is common on S10s and Chevy SUVs. There is no shaking or other unusual noises when driving. Is this repair necessary ? Would the vehicle have handling problems if this problem existed ? Any thoughts on the matter would be appreciated.

    Later
    JM
  • smokey13smokey13 Posts: 3
    YES I WOULD SAY THAT YOU SHOULD HAVE THE WORK DONE. IT MIGHT NOT HAVE A PROBLEM NOW BUT WILL CREATE ONE.BETTER SAFE THAN SORRY.GOOD LUCK :D
  • momof7momof7 Posts: 8
    I also replaced the ECM and it still won't start. Checked the pressure and is only slightly low 53 psi. Is it possible that the fuel pump is working fine, but the short hose coming off the pump has a pinhole and pumping fuel back into the tank? What are your thoughts?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    If it has been inspected and you trust the mechanic then do them. Assume this is 4wd cause they are the ones with weak ball joints. But, I've done 3 of my 4wds and the 01 at 85k is next - you get the classic clunk noise up front usually from the lower joint (never have put an upper on yet), tires start to have a slight high speed shake (after balancing) and wear is uneven, you can feel the steering wheel shake side to side - but again often the shakes/tire wear are a sign that a front end aligment is needed. As for the idler arm that is passenger side and on 4wd seldom greased (they miss it) and thats more of a steering slop/wander kind of thing and a new one tightens that up some. On 2wd the ball joints are heavier and not usually required until 150k or so - they have more steering system or greaseable joint problems (center link).
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Again, if you tested at the fuel rail don't see how its leaking back in the tank, but 60psi is the min for start (test with key on engine off) and the 53 psi running is OK. You are throwing alot of $$ at this so really a tow is pretty cheap to get a real analysis and avoid this headache. If you are by a military base most have an auto/hobby shop that would gladly help you out.
  • jmac6jmac6 Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply. Here's the thing. I'm not sure the repair shop is trustworthy. I've scheduled an appointment. My question is this: If the ball joints were in need of immediate repair, would there be steering or handling problems ? There does not appear to be any problems with handling, nor any unusual noises when driving. By the way it is 4WD. Your insight would be appreciated.

    Later.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Normally yes you start with a small clunk noise and tire wear and/or shake at higher speeds. If the tires are balanced and the above 60 slight to mod shake starts thats the reason most get them changed because its annoying then. But these are a known weak point in the design of 4wd Blazers due to the CV shaft having to pass above them into the hub. 2wds have a larger lower ball joint. Your call.
  • kcolekcole Posts: 2
    I had the transmission replaced on my 2000 blazer and the mechanic broke the oil pan. How do I replace it? It is a 4x4. Should he be responsible? What else do I need? Gasket? PLEASE HELP.

    kcole
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Yes, the trans guy has to fix it or sue his [non-permissible content removed] - this requires the engine be lifted up on a 4wd so it will not be cheap - hold your ground or most small claims courts are up to $5k now - check online and also make sure he did not bust the engine mounts too - probably did if the oil pan is broken (aluminum). In small claims you can get a sheriff to serve him and he and all workers you name will have to be in court so no work that day - maintain your cool and state facts. If the 4wd is 4 button with Autotrac hope he put blue syn fluid in the transfer case or he probably wreaked that too!
  • jimmy94jimmy94 Posts: 6
    As it turns out i ended up rebuilding the engine. the main and connecting bearings were about to go. also the timing chain was sloppy, several spark plug wires were bad, and there was something wrong with the intake valves on one of the heads. They were seating in the wrong position so they were never closing all the way. After rebuilding the engine, new pistons rings, and getting a new head and rebuilding all valves the jimmy has never ran better.
  • momof7momof7 Posts: 8
    Help!! I have replaced EVERYTHING. Fuel relays, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Fuel Pump, Inline Fuel Filter and ECM. Tested pressure and is pulling 60 psi, definitely has fire, but won't stay running more than a couple of seconds. What am I missing? Desperate
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    While you're waiting for a reply here you may also want to try Idle or Stalling Problems - All Vehicles.

    tidester, host
  • When I set the Cruise Control nothing happens.
    I checked the fuse in the fuse box.
    I put the radio to AM, and I can hear it click on and off.
    I do not hear anything when I push the set button.
    Don't know what to check next, or what to do.

    Help

    Thank's
    John
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Switch mounted above the brake pedal that shuts cruise off when you apply the brakes may be bad and they are cheap but a pain to bend yourself to reach up in there - may have to take the plastic piece off to reach it but only 3-5 small screws hold it up there - somewhere around 6-8 mm heads.
  • ckk4ckk4 Posts: 13
    Sorry for the late response. Same happened with my Blazer. I ended up taking the motor unit out and found out the plastic cover didn't seal properly so there was dirt inside of the motor. I cleaned all of the dirt out and regreased as necessary, works fine now.
  • ckk4ckk4 Posts: 13
    Hello All. I recently replaced the power steering fluid "coolant line" (sits in front of the radiator) and was just double checking that I connected the lines correctly from the pump to the coolant tube. Does the flexible PS line (which is connected to the PS pump) connect with the end of the PS coolant line which runs along the bottom of the coolant line before making it's way through the "S" turns, which ultimatley connects to the return line? Or the other way around. Thanks.
  • jlj1978jlj1978 Posts: 1
    Hi. I have a 95 Chevy Blazer. Here's a lil bit of background. The trans was slipping at highway speeds a little. Recently I changed transmission filter and fluid...made a world of difference. It drove like a brand new truck. This whole time, my A/C didn't work, just blew luke warm air. 3 weeks after changing trans filter, I discovered that the connection to the A/C system where the relay is wasn't making good connection. So I wiggled it around and bingo, the A/C started working. Here in lies the problem. That very same day, after shutting the blazer off, I started it back up again to drive home. On the way, the transmission went to neutral after 2nd gear (around 20-30 mph). It engages perfect into reverse and drive and I can make it thru 1st and 2nd gear, then nothing. I pulled the pan off under the vehicle and checked all the plugs and wires going into the transmission and everything is in place. Could someone please help me with this issue? Did connecting the A/C do something to the computer? Causing it to kick out after 2nd gear?
  • kennedbkennedb Posts: 3
    Vehicle stopped running while moving down highway. Attempted to restart and will not. Battery is working. When attempting to start the engine vibrates/shimmys like crazy. Thought it was the timing chain...checked it and it looks good.
  • jnlautojnlauto Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I have a 1997 blazer 2 door 4x4. It has 125,000 miles on it and has been a very good vehicle. I was driving it down the highway and loud clicking noise started coming from the passeneger side front. It ssounding like a gear clicking, it was a very fast click. It started all at once with no warning. I had it towed home and drove it down the street and the noise would start as soon as I started moving and all the guages went out. I checked and the fuse for the guages blew, I replaced it and it blew again with in about 5 minutes. I checked the front drive shaft and it is in 4 wheel drive, you can not spin it by hand. I jacked the front up and put it on jackstands and had someone hold the front axle why I tried to spin the front tires and the front rear is locked in. I have not had this truck in 4x4 since January so I assume somehow it locked in 4 wheel drive on its own. I also noticed that the guages switch also works the 4x4 switch on the dash and that is the fuse that blows now. I don't know if the problem is in the front rear or the transfer case and I don't know if the blowing fuse has anything to do with the 4x4 system. Is there a computer somewhere for the 4x4 that could have engaged it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  • chevguy1chevguy1 Posts: 6
    My "99 Blazer has not been in 4 wheel but twice in two years and on Saturday I put it in just to make sure it worked. Well it went into 4-High , would not go into 4-low and will not go back to 2-high. I replaced the dash switch and it is still no workie. Any body got any thoughts?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Search the forum there are many posts in the last few months on this but first check the vac hoses that come off the intake manifold by the PCV (small size is 5/32 and larger 7/32. They often rot out and run to the vac reservior can in drivers fender, then T off to a solenoid on the firewall, then down to the vac actuactor under the battery. After this it gets more detailed so fit these and try it. Often disconnecting the battery for 30 min will reset the 4wd computer.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    The 4L60E trans has solenoids and many parts that can stick/fail etc due to wear so take it to a trans shop for a free diagnostic and they can tell you before they work on it - many are simple drop the pan repairs before the full rebuild at $1500 or so. Bear to find the problem without a trans scanner for the codes. Doubt the AC effected anything in the trans unless you disconnected some wiring on the intake to sensors but doubt it.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Check the fuel pressure - sounds like the pump is about shot. Key on engine off 60psi (and running 54psi). Possible fuel filter clog, dist cap/rotor cracked, sensors, etc.
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