Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair



  • jteckblazerjteckblazer Member Posts: 9
    there are 2 things that I would be checking!

    1) check the oil pressure... it should be no less then 275kpa at idel 600 - 800 rpm.

    2) check the belt tentener. if its sitting on a angle or if you can move it with your hand then its bad. also try poping the hood when its running and rev the engine up and then let go while looking at the belt tentener see if there is any thing hitting (the inner to outer housing hitting each other).

    if you the first to things dont show anything up... then while the engine is running check and making the clicking noices use a long screw drive as a prob and touch different areas of the motor all over and listen through the screw driver to try to pin point the soure of the noise.
  • jteckblazerjteckblazer Member Posts: 9
    sorry to say you can not access the computer through the stereo. you need to get a OBD II hand held scanner cost about $150... its worth the money
  • jteckblazerjteckblazer Member Posts: 9
    hello, I am having the same problem with my 98 blazer.... when yours is clicking play with the turn signal leaver... put a little bit of pressure on it up or down from and back or flick your high beams on and then off... 90% chance its the switch under the stearing wheel.
  • jteckblazerjteckblazer Member Posts: 9
    hello, most likly a blowing ideler arm... have it checked out A.S.A.P if it snaps you lose your steering!
  • jteckblazerjteckblazer Member Posts: 9
    check the ball joints out really good... most likely you have a bad ball joint. Also just for the record... I had a simular problem with my truck jumping around and shacking... I replaces all my tires and it problem fixed... I checked for split belts and had them balanced 4 - 6 times a year as I sometimes kick the weights off when I am 4x4...

    as for the clicking blinker... mostlily the switch! mine dose the same way.. will be fixing that soon!
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    I'm in FL too.
    As for your rebuild, don't forget to look at the oil cooler lines (crimps leak)and then the secondary air injection system (on exhaust manifolds are 2 check valves and hoses, then under the radiator is the electric air pump and vac switch) cause these pick up water and DTC P0410 code shows - if you get an exhaust noise feel the 2 hoses for burn thru - extend the air pickup hose on the pass side of radiator 2' and put it in the area between the battery and coolant reservior so it won't suck water in. Both my 99 and 01 have had problems. Also change that transfer case fluid and if Autotrac (4 button) use the GM only syn fluid thats blue (2qts)- will help the life of it.
  • jteckblazerjteckblazer Member Posts: 9
    hello, your ac needs to be services. I suggest taking it to a good shop. Your compressor is making noise due to low oil level and low gas.
  • jteckblazerjteckblazer Member Posts: 9
    Here is a very qick fix for all those who have problems with their 97 and up blazer / jimmy wipers.

    1) disconnect the wires from the wiper motor.
    2) remove the black cover off the motor ( 2 or 3 screws)
    3) remove the circit board from the wiper motor

    Now look at the circit board for any signs of a circit pealing off or burnt out.

    Look at the connection block where the wire harnass plugs into. Usall the soider joints go bad there as well as a 1cm or 1/4" of a very small circuit not far from the connector block on the bottom...

    now to fix the circit problem:
    1) use your finger nail to peal or scrap off the bad area of the circuit.
    2) get a small peice of spaker wire and jumper the bad area of the ciruit and soider it.
    3) re-soider the connection block even if it looks good and check all other soider joints.

    Re-install the board, replace the cover and plug the wire connection back in. Now try your wipers.

    I had done this to mine, now the wipers stop where they should, they work at all speeds and not problems for over 60,000kms I live in canada and get lots of rain and snow so the wipers are well used!

    save your self money and fix the board that you have or have a friend fix it for you and it will alast forever! well almost but longer then a stock replacment will!
  • mongo1mongo1 Member Posts: 49
    Once again, thank you for the excellent advice. Actually though, I'm a bit past "doing it myself" anymore. I still change oil, diagnose when necessary and make "emergency repairs" when needed. But I have a philosophy, I build bridges. You want a bridge built, come see me. I need an engine rebuilt, I come see you! I am very fortunate to have several excellent mechanics very close by here in Longwood. Seminole Car Care (Cheap Plug!) is the one taking care of my Jimmy. What part of FL are you in? I've lived just about everywhere except the panhandle. Thanks again Repairdog, I will print this out and give it to Bill over at S.C.C. :D
  • metfankarmetfankar Member Posts: 1
    I have shattered the sunroof on my 96 Jimmy and I took it to the dealer and they wanted $400 bucks so I got on a mission to find a used sunroof from used part stores and junkyards... i found one from a 97 for $120 as I was told it was the same but apparently is smalller... is it possible or was I given the wrong glass?? does anyone know if they are different because as far as I understood, from 95 to like 98 Jimmmy's barely changed and I doubt they would only change the sunroof....i would appreciate some advice..or where I could find a used sunroof for a 96 jimmy. thankyou
  • gonzo10gonzo10 Member Posts: 1
    on a 92 chevy s10 blazer "w" engine, there's no power at the fuel pump relay wire coming from the ecm but if i jump the relay i can hear the pump working, can somebody help with this problem?
  • james3189wjames3189w Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 blazer and the transmision went around 80000 miles. I have just had it fixed a couple weeks ago and I am starting to have the same problems with it. First gear will go until i let off the gas and it shifts rough into 2nd gear, if i dont it will redline the engine. What is the problem with it?
  • jseagerjseager Member Posts: 2
    1987 GMC Jimmy 4x4... pressure guage is pegged past max, dip stick it being pushed out during idle and when I remove the filler cap during idle there is a hissing sound like I just opened a carbonated soda. Any ideas on where I should start troubleshooting? If you suggest the oil pump how can I test it before replacing it?

  • james3189wjames3189w Member Posts: 2
    My fuel gauge stoped working just before my trans. went. It will sway back and forth. when it is low on fuel it will stay at the full mark and drop down to the empty mark and then the fuel light will go on. I got an estimate from a shop ad they wanted $1000 to fix it. Does anyone know what the porblem is? I think a loose wire or something because it works sometimes and sometimes not. What do you think?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Change the PCV valve and check the vent tube to the air cleaner. Oil pumps have gears and as the clearances increase pressue drops - not suddenly increase. Is the filter new and oil - do that too.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    The crash book only shows 1 sunroof but no years listed so I too assume its the same. Get the dealer to look it up and confirm. Also should have a # somewhere on it to match.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    4L60-E have known problems with 1-2 hard shifts and is from the TCC regulator and isolator valves. GM issued bulletins on this and #99-07-30-005 and code DTC P1870. Valve was updated in 99 so you should have the newer model but the trans shop better know all this or they aren't too sharp! All accessed with the pan dropped in the valve body so this is not hard to get to. Sometimes even alittle dirt or junk from a rebuild can cause so have them check/change the filter. GM says every 30k good conditions and 15k harsh.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    98up have an integrated pump and sender and the unit costs $350 at the dealer plus install of a few hours - Not over $600 at a shop normally - ask how many hours to drop the tank and replace plus the part. That sender is a float on an arm that goes up and down and the resistor contacts get worn and loose - bad design and GM has changed the older ones now.
  • jseagerjseager Member Posts: 2
    I did a major tune up 2 months ago and changed the pcv, egr, fuel filter, all fluids, air filter, and my valve cover gaskets and oil filter. It ran great for the past 2 months. I do not know about the air cleaner unless you are speaking of the air filter above the carb. I will look it up I guess.

  • rgejgrgejg Member Posts: 1
    My heated exterior power mirrors only operate in two directions instead of four (up,down,in,out). This applies to both exterior side mirrors.
    Does anyone have a solution or have experienced this problem.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Common - push the switches a few times (5-10) hard in each direction to clean the contacts and they usually start to work again,
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Yes, air filter - sounds like pressure buildup due to the PCV and/or breather tube clogged - so see if the PCV still is fairy clean inside and rattles or shakes freely inside.
  • stoman82stoman82 Member Posts: 1
    I have cleaned/ replaced EGR valve. Replaced all 6 plugs in the vortex 6 cylinder engine (must admit one of them on the drivers side middle was quite the chore!@) Stills backfires, runs like !@$)#, :mad: and gets about 8 miles to the gallon when I can keep it running! I am at the end of my frustration level. last backfire blew out the rearend of my new muffler. anyone wants to email help [email protected] Need this thing to work so I can work. :cry:
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Very common is a leaking CPI regulator and hoses (called a nut kit) under the upper intake manifold. Removal is required to fix/replace the parts and check the oil for a gas smell - if its there stop driving it now till fixed.

    Here's info I pulled for you on how to check:
    You can remove the IMTV (Intake Manifold Tuning Valve) from intake manifold. Once the IMTV unit is removed, visually inspect the inside of intake manifold. The manifold and injector unit should be very carboned up and dirty. Any clean areas indicate a fuel leak internal to the manifold plenum. Most times this is caused by the fuel pressure regulator leaking fuel from vent hole in the regulator body. Other factors may be present (such as a cracked inlet fuel line) but usually the regulator unit has failed. If no leak is detected through the IMTV hole, but a faulty unit is still suspected then you must pull the upper plenum to get a full view of the inside of the intake.

    If the assembly is bad then it must be replaced. A bad leak will dump so much fuel that it will get into the oil and cause engine damage. It is recommended that the CPI and Nut kit be replaced at the same time.
  • doc_john_13doc_john_13 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1998 Chevy Blazer. The Idle is fine, the acceleration is fine.
    But when you get it up to a steady speed it Misfires.
    I have changed spark plugs, and plug wires. Replaced the fuel filter.
    Ran injector cleaner time and time again.

    I don't know what else to do. Can you PLEASE help me?
  • marks97blazermarks97blazer Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 blazer and mine is doing the same thing and i took mine to the dealer and they put a new computer in it.... it did nothin... did you get yours fixed? and if you did how?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Assume high mileage so did you change the cap and rotor? If they get any moisture or crap in them that could be the cause so you need a torx driver (screw driver type) but sorry don't remember the size (think 15 or 20)to remove the 2 cap screws. They will be tight so be careful and you must have the correct torx size end or you could crack the cap or distributor base. Remove and inspect for tracks inside (arcing) or on the rotor see if its burned 180 out the wrong side (arcing again). If that dosen't fix it are there any codes (SES light on)?
  • dbrothertondbrotherton Member Posts: 3
    Have a 2000 Chevy Blazer LS 4.3L with 70k miles. SES light came on. Bought the code reader and found that it was P1404 code. Replaced the EGR valve. Came home tonight and the SES light came back on now with code P0404. Anyone have any suggestions?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    After alittle searching found that once the EGR is replaced the computer needs to relearn the position of the valve and the dealer uses a scan tool, but here is a fix that should work as reported by several:
    "It appears that the secret to getting the EGR valve to relearn the closed position is to reset the trouble codes with the valve disconnected and immediately turn the key off so it doesn't have time to set the "EGR Circuit" code. Then connect the valve and turn the key back on and PRESTO!"
    That P0404 is related to EGR position and the relearn should fix that also. Post how it goes.
  • samantha2samantha2 Member Posts: 1
    My chevy blazer is not starting - sometimes it starts and other times it simply will not crank. I thought maybe it was the fuel pump, but i am not sure. All other functions are working, lights, radio, and interior lights. it turns and sounds like it wants to start but it just won't actuall turn all the way over. What could be the problem?
  • fast72ssfast72ss Member Posts: 2
    It goes into 4 wheel high no problem and works great but when i HIT THE BUTTON FOR 4 wheel low nothing it stays in 2 wheel.
  • fast72ssfast72ss Member Posts: 2
    1996 gmc jimmy thanks
  • dbrothertondbrotherton Member Posts: 3
    Had already reset the code before I read this. Will give it a whirl as soon as it comes on. Thank you for the response. Will let you know if it works.
  • auto9999auto9999 Member Posts: 86
    To engage 4LO you need to bring the vehicle to a full stop. It is written in the manual.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Check the fuel pressure at the fusl rail (metal lines rear of compartment) at the test port and to start requires 60 psi and to run 54 psi. Low means replace pump - do the filter first located under drivers side frame rail about where the front door is. Do you have a good spark/coil/wires/cap/rotor/plugs? Any codes read out? Mileage on this 98? Could be several things.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    As stated must be not moving more than 3 mph and in neutral and you should hear the encoder motor in the transfer case engage the lower gear with a clunk. 96 have a vac assembly on top of the transfer case that leaks and won't allow 4Lo - sensor sends signal to control module that low is engaged and dash light goes on solid. Check all vac lines as first step front the intake down and GM uses 5/32 and 7/32 size. There is a reservior believe in drivers side front fender on 96 so check to that too.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    99 up were first years with factory alarms I believe so unless its a GM remote (FOB) you need to determine the aftermarket brand and search for their instructions. Check the remote battery first and most also have a valet switch under the dash installers mounted that deactivates alarm if you let someone park it - reactivate sequence also specific to brand.
  • mstafformstaffor Member Posts: 4
    Did you get this resolved? I have a 93 PU and it idles rough, misses once in a while. I have changed everything and this is a new GM engine (less than 2000 miles) my old engine did the same thing. I have a new distributor, coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, O2 sensor, TPS, MAP, and throttle body. No codes, and it runs fine except at idle.
  • dbrothertondbrotherton Member Posts: 3
    Well. I tried the fix for the P0404 code and it didn't seem to work. Works after the reset for about 2 starts, then after about 1/2 mile on the road, SES light come on again. Code is still the same. Know of any other fixes or is it dealer time?
  • aallen2aallen2 Member Posts: 5
    I am having a similar issue where my check gages light comes on and my oil gage falls to '0' when the car is idle - when I am moving it moves up fine...what could this possibly be because the shop I had it in this morning told me the only option is to replace the motor mind you it was not an issue until they did an oil change.

    Also my ABS light is continually on - could you provide insight as to why?

    I will like to know possible issues and solutions so I sort of know what I am talking about when I take it in -- any advice is very much appreciated.

  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    If the oil is at the correct level and the filter is new and the correct one (if this just happened I would change both again somewhere else) then I would change the oil pressure sending unit first to make sure thats not the bad item - you did not state the year but all 98 up are loacetd behind the distributor on the stand pipe back there and they are fairly cheap. At idle common is 20 psi then up to 50-60 at full throttle.

    As to ABS light you have a sensor in each front hub (98up) and one on the trans (2wd) or transfer case (4wd) that are required to work - so if the light is on get the ABS codes read out (special scanner) and that should tell you why.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Only other item I have is that if the cat converter is clogged then the readings can cause this but the vehicle would also be a dog and bog down. Sorry all I got.
  • blu99blzrblu99blzr Member Posts: 14
    left front makes popping noise when going over speed bumps, railroad tracks... can't afford to take to a shop, so I want to ask all of you what you think.

    unrelated - had rear end rebuilt about 3 months ago due to a failed pinion bearing. (It in turn munched the whole diff.) $1640 - a rip off? new gears, carrier, shafts, bearings, seals but old axle housing... now rear brakes surge. Could they have failed to clean the rotors after working near them?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    If 4wd check the lower ball joints as they are the #1 Blazer failure and noise area - give all fittings up front a good greasing - upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends and the id;e arm under the skid plate, and all steering linkage (4 places - that makes 10 zerks to find).
    Also if you look back up and search the posts GM has small hood cone washers because the hood shifts and clunks. Try those first then I have many others to look at.

    Rear brakes surge - assume you mean pulse/grab when the brakes are applied. Are you sure its the rears and not the fronts, and if so the rear calipers are single piston lightweight with a special plastic piston and on geting new pads should be replaced with rebuilts due to sticking internally often occurs after the piston is pushed back in. Rotors can only be turned once on most and are the main cause of the pulsing as they get hot - the calipers slides need to be greased too a thing lots forget and they bind and can eat the rotors and cause this too. Bottom line is the rears need to be taken apart and examined and repairs made accordingly to correct. To do it yourself is loaded calipers with pads $55 eacd x 2 and rotors $35 each x 2 so under $200. If you destroyed the rear end you could have effected those brakes.

    Rear ends are expensive to rebuild totally as yours was. I would have gotten a used at the junk yard and put in for under $400 - but I do most of my own and have tools and jacks. You can look up the parts prices online and see.
  • blu99blzrblu99blzr Member Posts: 14
    had I known it'd be a $1600+ charge, I'd have had the tow truck take it to my home and done exactly as you said - replace the whole mess from a yard. Too late now I guess. I just did the front brakes - pads and had the rotors turned - about a month ago. Hadn't thought to replace the calipers since they looked good and seemed fairly easy to compress. Haven't done anything with the back brakes yet - will have to tomorrow and let you know. Will hit those zerks while I'm at it. Chilton's says those lower ball joints can have up to .125" (about 3 mm) play before needing replacement. Is this true? I remember something about them not being pre-loaded.
  • redblazerredblazer Member Posts: 2
    I have a 93 s-10 blazer 4.3 with 82,000 miles on it, over the past year every time I let it sit for more then a day or two it runs fine at first but about 5 miles it begins idling extremely rough, backfiring, extreme hesitation and smelling like rotten eggs. If i let it set for several hours it is fine again and can be driven anywhere until i let it set for a few days. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Front calipers are fine they are dual piston cast units that can be reused many times - only the rears are cheapos.
    You never said 2wd or 4wd and mileage, but the 2wd zerk tells if ball joint bad and the 4wd requires loading to see (old pull top and bottom of wheel only works in extremely bad joints) - many posts on 4wd lowers being bad and high speed vibration and the clunk are tell tale signs.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Read post #2208 on CPI and then look up fuel pressures for this and that should help. If you smell gas or on dipstick then the cat converter may be getting loaded with it and very hot so be careful. They are also known for clogged EGR problems. Hope you have turned this one up too with cap/rotor/plugs/wires/filters etc due to the year too.
  • blu99blzrblu99blzr Member Posts: 14
    Push button "Auto" 4wd, 4L60E tranny. 154,000 miles - still riveted upper ball joints, so I'm thinking nothing has been done out front since it left the factory. Noticed high speed vibration today - 60-65 mph. Can't (legally) go any faster around here. I go to work pretty early - 5 AM, so I'm gonna catch a nap before tackling the Blazer. Thank you for your help.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    I crank my 99 like yours up to 80 all the time in flat FL. Did they put new u-joints in yet, another vibration area at that mileage. Hope you have done the trans filter a few times and the transfer case requires Autotrak II blue fluid from the dealer (manual was published befor GM had the clutch pack problem causing chatter in transfer). Look at the CV boots cause both mine went by 120k and rebuilts put in and if you have the knuckle and hubs off for lower ball joints its easy. That inside CV has an internal snap ring so with a block of wood hit it to the out direction a few times and it unsnaps. My idle arm was also so loose that had alot of steering play. Good luck.
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