Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair



  • prouxproux Posts: 4
    Did you check the level and condition of the fluids? When was the last time the fuel filter was changed? Also check out the spark plugs.
  • fkvbabfkvbab Posts: 1
    Help please
    Can anyone tell me where the interior lamp control module is located on this
    vehicle. I went to the dealer and they said it was under the lower center of
    instrument panel but there is nothing there but the flashers. I did find one box
    on the left side of lower panel but it has an FCC ID number on it so I don't think
    that's it.
    thanks for any help I get..
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    GM Blazer/Jimmy/Typhoon/Bravada 1983-1993 Repair Guide

    When necessary for access from underneath the truck, raise and support the vehicle safely using jackstands.

    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

    On some vehicles access to the wiring may be easier from above. Before raising and supporting the vehicle, check to see if the solenoid wiring is accessible. If so, tag and disconnect it at this time.

    2. On 2.5L engines, remove the brush end mounting bracket from the starter motor.
    3. Tag and disconnect the solenoid wiring.

    If the wiring is difficult to access with the starter installed, remove the bolts and partially lower the starter for access to the wiring. If this is done, be careful not to stretch or damage the wiring.

    4. If not done already, raise and support the front of the truck safely using jackstands.
    5. If equipped, loosen the retaining bolts and remove the skid plate.
    6. Remove the retainers and the brackets holding the brake line to the crossmember located just behind the oil pan. Reposition the brake line slightly in order to clear the crossmember.
    7. Remove the crossmember retaining bolts, there are usually 3 on each side, then carefully lower the crossmember and remove it from the vehicle for access.
    8. As applicable and necessary, remove the bracket holding the transmission fluid cooler lines to the flywheel housing, brace rod to the flywheel housing and/or the lower flywheel housing.
    9. Remove the starter-to-engine block bolts. When removing the last bolt, be sure to support the starter to keep it from falling and possibly injuring you.

    On some vehicles, even with the crossmember removed, clearance for starter removal is tight. As the starter is lowered, it may be necessary to rotate it upside down in order for the end to clear the motor mount, then lower the nose behind the bell housing and rotate it back so the solenoid is on top and the starter may be removed.

    10. Carefully lower the starter and shims (if equipped) from the vehicle.

    To install:

    11. Position the starter in the vehicle (along with any shims which were removed) and support while threading the starter mounting bolts. Tighten the starter mounting bolts to 30-33 ft. lbs. (40-45 Nm).
    12. If removed, install the lower flywheel housing.
    13. If equipped, install the transmission cooler line bracket and/or the brace rod to the housing.
    14. Install the crossmember to the frame and secure using the retaining bolts.
    15. Carefully reposition the brake line and secure to the crossmember using the retaining brackets.
    16. If equipped, install and secure the skid plate.
    17. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the truck.
    18. For the 2.5L engine, install the brush end mounting bracket.
    19. Connect the solenoid wiring as noted during removal.
    20. Connect the negative battery cable.
  • I just recently replaced the starter on my blazer, after getting the two mounting bolts off i had to pull start away a bit to get to two wires, after disconnecting the wires to get it out of the tiny space i had to turn it and twist it in the area that it is in when installed correctly. I think i got it out with the selenoid on top and to the back, with the cone end coming out first while twisting and pulling, is difficult but with determination it will come out, much easier to get back in but hard to reconnect the two wires, and then after all that i found out that it wasnt even the starter that was the problem
  • I saw the problems about the rear windshield wiper arm not going back completely into its place and not letting the rear window open, but my rear windshield wiper will not come loose from its little holder thingy to clean the window it sits there and makes a clicking noise. the only way to release it is to jump out of the truck and run back there and lift it up towards you and let it sit on the window and then it works but then afterwards it goes back into its little holder and wont come back out again any ideas on how to fix it??
  • kurbsterkurbster Posts: 1
    I have a 1986 Jimmy 2-door Auto 2.8/3.4 conversion and I need to replace the wiring harness. It has nothing to do with the motor swap. My truck was stolen and the bad guys messed up the harness in several places and now it smokes and
    melts all over the place. I'd just like to find a "new" wiring harness and install a new wiring harness on my Jimmy. Does anyone know the best place to purchase a wiring harness for my truck? Thanks for any and all help!

    Kirby Martin
    Dallas, Texas
  • phreakingphreaking Posts: 1
    When thieves tried to steal my '96 GMC Jimmy they left a mess. I found the top cowling torn off. A file broken off in the ignition switch and two wires pulled out and their ends stripped. One of the wires hung free while the other was stuck in the ignition switch. I've replaced the damaged ignition/tumblers and put a new cowling on, but I don't know where the two wires go. The vehicle starts fine but I've noticed that my new battery runs down if the truck sits for a week. Is that natural or could those two wires be draining the battery down? I don't see anything else (dome light,etc.) on.
  • asclepeusasclepeus Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 97 jimmy when I looked at it at the dealership the check engine light was on I was told this was due to a O2 sensor which they replaced. I was doing some Hiway driving today and I noticed my RPM's would randomly drop 200-300 rpm. I stoppped to get gas and as I left the station the Check engine light came on and the rpm drop stopped (ran better after light came on)At this point my sister informed me she had run out of gas earlier today (coasted into the station) could any of this explain the engine light, and the rpm drop? and what would I need to do to fix it?
  • eli98eli98 Posts: 3
    I have a 95s-10 Blazer that idles at 3000rpms in park. How can I adjust the idle. I also have a problem with the brakes. The brake pedal get's really hard and I have to stand on the pedal to stop. If anyone can give me some feed back it would be greatly appreciated. The check engine light is also on. Could that be causing all my other problems
  • dereckdereck Posts: 3
    I see a issue like this has been posted before but I never got to see the answers. I have a 2000 Chevy 4x4 Blazer and I hoping someone can tell me what I need to do and what the cost will be to fix. Yesterday when turning left or right, after the turn the signal flasher on the dash turned off but the tick, tick, tick continued. I hear the noise coming from (relay for signal) switch in the glove compartment. When I use the brakes the ticking stops and then when release breaks, the ticking starts again! Without spending a lot of time and money does anyone know what I need to do?
  • phs39phs39 Posts: 1
    I have a '96 4x4 jimmy that no matter which direction of air delivery I choose, it only comes out of the floor and windshield vents. It does this at the same time. Nothing comes out of the panel vents. The air conditioner and heater work as far as providing cold or hot air as well as the fan speed If anyone knows what might be causing this problem I would appreciate a reply.
  • doorwaydoorway Posts: 1
    I have exactly the same problem with the A/C and the 4WD. when i turn on the A/C it sometimes works and sometime the A/C led is blinking and the A/C will not turn On. I have 1998 Jimmy SLT.

    I just replaced the A/C Controller but the same problem returned back two days after.

    help will be appricated
  • hdmech1hdmech1 Posts: 2
    I own a 97 blazer with a vortec 4.3 i am having problems with it bogging down under load pulling hills, towing etc. the check engine light will come on well climbing a hill and the engine will throttle down, after you have got up the hill the light goes out and everything is fine. The ecm won't log the code so i can scan it the condition does not occur well using cruise. any ideas??

    thanks :confuse:
  • h00chh00ch Posts: 1
    :confuse: I took my '99 Jimmy (with 65,000kms) in to get new rotors and pads on all 4 wheels and after getting this done I get a VERY bad vibration that shakes my whole vehicle. This only happens after reaching about 90km/h and just gets gradually worse from there. I took Jimmy back to the garage and they were very accomidating (Speedy Muffler) and took it out for a test drive, rotated the tires to see if the vibration moved, balanced all the wheels, out for another test drive, but nothing worked.

    They said it must be a coincidence that something went wrong with at least one of my tires within the past week and has nothing to do with the brake work they did. There was about 3 or 4 days before and after getting the brake work done where I didn't go above 90km/h so I don't know for sure if it happened on the day they fixed the brakes. Anyways, they think that the steel belt in one of the tires must have slipped a little and all I could do is buy a new set of tires.

    Can anyone tell me of anything else that may be causing this vibration and specifically if there's something that may have happened by putting on new rotors or pads?
  • hdmech1hdmech1 Posts: 2
    have your wheel bearings checked
  • amanda3amanda3 Posts: 1
    I have the same year blazer and everything... I am having the same problem with it.... Have you figured out what it is yet.... Because I replace both rear calipers, rotors, pads, and hardware.... the only thing that I didnt replace was the emergency brake pad shoes....I think that they are the problem... :lemon:
  • rodrrodr Posts: 2
    I had a similar problem with my 99 blazer. I added AC Delco fuel injector treatment purchased from the GM dealer. The gauge seems to be working fine now.
  • rodrrodr Posts: 2
    ACDelco fuel injector gasoline detergent purchase from the GM dealer fixed the problem on my 99 Blazer
  • Hope this reply does not come too late. Save your money honey. I am also a single mom and have been doing my own brakes for years. I went from Camaros, to a Jimmy and have had no problems doing them myself. If you have past experience and feel confident with doing it, then I have to say definately the way to go. So many other things you could spend the money on. I would even offer to do them for you at n/c if you lived in my area? It's great to hear of another independent woman, I don't think there is enough of us willing to get into the coveralls. ;)
  • gm4life1gm4life1 Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Jimmy 4x4 with Auto-Trac.

    2Hi, 4Hi and 4 Lo all work. However, when in Auto 4WD, there is a shudder from underneath when starting from a dead stop, turning left or right from a dead stop, and when coming to a stop. I have know idea why 4hi works perfect, and Auto 4WD does not. I just changed the fluid in the front and rear diff so the levels are fine. it normal for the transfer case to seem to slip when operating in 4 Lo when starting off. Today was the first time in 6 years i tried 4-lo, so i don't really know how it feels in comparison to other 4WD's. My 1981 Jimmy never did that in 4-lo, but its ancient compare to this one.
  • kevin53kevin53 Posts: 2
    It sounds as if it is the same problem. I have had the same issue with the wipers also. Even though I finally got the clicking to stop, the wipers still won't function from time to time. This happened both before and after I cleaned the circuits in the control arm. Since the wiper function on the control arm is limited to a plastic rotating sprocket that then turns something else further under the steering wheel column, I wasn't able to reach it and try to fix it. There are a ton of posts on this subject, but I short of replacing the control arm completely (~$300), I haven't seen any definitive fix-all.
  • fixmyownfixmyown Posts: 1
    I own a 1999 Blazer 4X4. In 3 years I have replaced the left hub-bearing assembly 2x and am getting ready to replace the right side. Don't let a mechanic order the part for you. I made that mistake the first time and paid almost $500.00 for the part and labor. If you order the part from a parts store on the internet it will cost you between $125.00 & $175.00. Meineke will install the part for about $50.00. I ordered mine from and it was 159.99 plus 8.00 for shipping. The part I ordered online is warrantied for twice as long as the other part was. Good Luck - I hope this helps.
  • jimmy97jimmy97 Posts: 2
    You need to replace the wiper motor..I have a 97 Jimmy and mine went last winter had to replace it..You can get one for about $75.00 from a parts store..
  • donc3donc3 Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 91 Jimmy with the control for the 4 wheel drive on the floor. It was set in nuetral. I placed it in 4 wheel drive and now it won't return to the nuetral position. I set the parking brake and had the transmission in nuetral. Is there a trick to this or something wrong with the transmission? Any suggestions is appreciated.
  • jlv2jlv2 Posts: 1
    I bought a 2000 4X4 Blazer about 6 months ago. The car has been great, but about 2 weeks ago, the exact same problem you describe started. Did you ever receive a solution to this problem?
  • kevin_leekevin_lee Posts: 1
    I had a 91 s10 blazer that had problems like that. I can't remember exactly how to do it (a hanes manual will tell) try adjusting your 4wd shift linkage it stretches when you get some miles on it.
  • well , heres my story used to own a 95 sls s-10 with a four cyl. and got 268,000 miles out of it , now a bought a 98 blazer from my boss 4 door beutiful truck and it had 213,000 miles on it and i paid 2500.00 bucks for it . Truck is just nice interior and body, runs really good it has alot of power for a vehicle with 213000 miles on it , have put it up to 10.000 miles on it allready in 3 monthes so that should tell you how reliable it is.
  • Helping my son replace the shocks on his 98 Jimmy 4WD. Rear shocks were easy, but I can't seem to find sockets/wrenches to fit the bolts/nuts holding the front shocks. Anyone know what sizes I need?
  • fueltankfueltank Posts: 1
    I am trying to open the 6 inch diameter fuel tank opening in the top of the tank. I can see some slots (3) and what appear to to locking tangs (2). How do I get it open to replace fuel pump???? How does it unlock? Does it rotate CCW to release? 1987 S-10 Blazer.
Sign In or Register to comment.