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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • I am trying to drop my gas tank to replace the fuel pump. 1st i am having problems draining tank by siphon from gas fill tube. There is a stopper of some sort blocking my hose. Next I am wondering how to get to gas lines to disconnect. I assume thay are on the top of the tank. Do I drop tank and then disconnect?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Yes they have an anti siphon or overfill ball in there so you can disconnect the inlet fill hose at the tank top and put hose in or remove the filter and pump thru there. If you remove your spare tire you can access all the hose connections on tank top and they are snap type either squeeze together or the electrical with retainer snap/pull connector. Be careful the hoses get brittle and are expensive. Mark them for install so you don't mix up (sometimes I get confused under there).
    Easier if you have the rear high enough up as on ramps cause just jack stands is kind of low. Enjoy.
  • Thanks for the good advice. I have a 2dr with the spare on the back. I checked to see if there was a way to get at an access panel and there doesn't appear to be any, is there a way to access on a 2dr. Other wise how do I disconnect lines?
  • I have a 1998 GMC Jimmy with 148K miles. It start clicking from under the dash. It sound like the turn signals are always on. I have replaced the multifunction unit thinking it was bad but no luck. I have noticed that when I step on the brakes the clicking does stop. Do I have a bad sensor in my brakes? How do I find out what is causing the problem? I went to the auto store and I had no error codes in the computer.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Never done a 2dr before - all mine are 4dr.
    Haynes is outdated as always on 98up but says to disconnect the filler and drop till access to top. See if there are disconnects from the metal lines on the frame to the tank while the tank is installed (where changes from metal to flex).
    Anyone done a 2 Door gas tank out there???
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    So, is it under the dash or the front brakes? Listen as someone else drives it by you and determine. Brakes could be many things such as rotors (any pulsing), caliper slides needing grease or frozen, the metal disc pad slide shims that clip between the ends of the pads and the mounting brakets contacting the rotors, even worn hubs but these usually start to grate or grind. The hubs each have an ABS sensor in them but if bad the yellow ABS light will come on and not noise source usually. If not brakes , is the sound under dash or in engine compartment - open the hood and listen. Got more to check after you determine.
  • auto9999auto9999 Posts: 86
    Here is my 2000 Blazer's (Trailblazer trim, 4WD) troubles so far since it was bought new:

    1. all four (upper, lower, right and left) ball joints replaced (2002-2003), fixed by new car and extended warranty
    2. idler arm replaced (2002), fixed by new car warranty
    3. multi function switch replaced (2004), fixed by extended warranty
    4. lower intake manifold gasket replaced (2006), fixed by extended warranty
    5. heater core replaced (2006), fixed by extended warranty
    6. serpentine belt replaced twice (2004 and 2005), own expense
    7. driver-side front door hinge being loose (not fixed yet)

    Since the replacement parts were supposedly of the identical quality of the original parts, I expect that the same problems will recur in the similar intervals in the next several years. As my extended warranty expires in October, 2006, the recurring problems above alone would cost me about $2500.

    Blazer's many common problems seem to have happened already and were fixed in my vehicle by now. When the next cycle of troubles begins, I would have to trade in this Blazer for something more reliable. I wish Blazers had more reliability, as I like my Blazer very much and wish to keep it longer.
  • It is coming from under the dash behind the glove box. It is the multifunction flasher unit that has a three prong connector into circuit board behind the glove box. It sounds just like the turn signal is always on. I removed the multifunction flasher and the clicking stopped. It is my understanding that this switch has many purposes besides just the turn signals.

    The brakes and rotors have been replaced. and the clicking sound it under the dash when the GMC is moving or parked. While moving it is clicking but when you apply the brakes the clicking under the dash stops. Could this be that my ABS control module is having a problem?

    Thanks for the help
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    There are 2 relays back behind the glove box - 1 for the turn signals and 1 for the flashers (they are on the brake circuit). The multifunction switch is in the steering column and includes the harzard switch (or flashers) and thats the bad part of it. Until that is replaced the noise will continue. Search this forum for "multifunction switch" and you will see that many have had the same experience (or pain).
  • dju91001dju91001 Posts: 1
    Im new here but im stomped on this diagnostic. Maybe i can get some help. I have a 96 gmc jimmy with the 4.3L H.O. I had a code for the mass flow sensor, camshaft sensor, and the abs light stays on. I replaced the mass flow sensor. The jimmy has a really rough idle, and it cuts out when climbing hills on the highway. I was told that the camshaft sensor and the crankshaft sensor are out of sink with eachother. If i were to advance the timing which way would i need to turn the distributor? Would the fuel pump be going bad? It has 170,000 miles on it. As far as the abs light, what would i need to check to solve that? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Have to test the pressure at the fuel rail to tell and they are 60psi key on engine off (for start pressure)and 54 up running. The 96up has the spider injection and your system (poppets) may be dirty so run some good cleaner thru them. A regulator under the upper intake too. GM has a new system (called MFI) out to replace 96up and reviews look great - about $200-300 and it replaces the whole assembly under the upper intake. Cheaper than buying 2 injectors (of 6 and then the spider). Use a timing light and disconnect the single wire behind the dist to time (not the dual oil pressure leads).

    Assume this has new plugs/cap/rotor/wires/fuel and air filters/pcv and then you replaced the MAF sensor already (can spray clean with electronic/brake/MAF cleaner - not carb cleaner due to residue).

    Has the lower intake gasket been done - always leak so if the coolant reservior is dropping thats probably why - if water pump isn't leaking out the small holes but thats also probably new by now.

    ABS sensor in each front wheel hub and on 4wd in transfer case and 2wd in transmission. Get it scanned for codes (special scanner) and then you will know why. If you are spinning the rear wheels alot miscompares can occur but should clear on restart of engine and PCM (computer).
  • blu99blzrblu99blzr Posts: 14
    Thank you for all your help. After a little leak fix - Left banjo had issues with an obviously second - or third - generation rebuilt caliper - all is good once again in Blazer land.

    WARNING TO ALL BLAZER OWNERS:

    AVOID THE CHEAPO BALL JOINTS LIKE THE PLAGUE!! The seals on these are worthless. Trust me on this - learned the hard way to buy the good ones - "Lifetime Warranty" means they might last long enough to get on your ride. Also, try not to get too much grease in those Urethane aftermarket Tie-rod end dust boots - they tend to burst.

    Thanks again - you guys (and gals) are life savers!
  • franklimfranklim Posts: 11
    Got a 1996 GMC Jimmy with 98k miles a few weeks ago. It started making an engine noise this weekend. It started out faint, then got louder the further I drove up the street. It sounded very similar to a serpentine belt that is comming apart and slapping around under the hood. Back home, I took the belt off and started the engine. Unfortunately, it still made the same noise. Using a stehoscope, I narrowed it down to either the driver's side or the front of the engine. Pulling the driver's side valve cover and again with the stethoscope, the metal-to-metal knocking noise is loudest around cylinder #1 (front driver's side). Even louder when I put the stehoscope into the lifter valley through the oil passages next to the pushrod hole for cylinder #1. Everyone I talk to says it is highly unlikely that it would be a connecting rod. Any suggestion on how to narrow it down to one part to replace? Any common problems with 4.3L's when they reach this vintage?

    God Bless,
    Michael
  • franklimfranklim Posts: 11
    Also, no engine light (no codes set), sound varies with RPM, does not go away as the engine warms up, sound seems to be at least approximately in sync with 1st cylinder exhaust valve.
  • abeckabeck Posts: 1
    Have a 2001 Blazer, just changed oil/filter. On startup Oil pressure if 40. After driving a while when idling at stop sign/light pressure drops to 20-25. No leaks noticed, but do smell a light "Hot" smell when turning engine off. On prior oil change this was not a problem (other than Hot smell last few weeks) NO LEAKS detected. Any suggestions? :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    wonder if it's a wrist pin. If you pull the plug wire off for that cylinder and the sound immediately doubles in frequency (not loudness, but the number of knocks per revolution) then it's a wrist pin. A rod knock is pretty fierce and obvious. You wouldn't need a stethoscope that's for sure.
  • dwhyte99dwhyte99 Posts: 4
    Hi everyone.

    I have a 97 Jimmy which is in pretty good shape. Don't have many problems until recently. I cannot turn the key in the ignition. Sometimes it will not turn and I will have to flip the key around and try it several times before it finally budges. When it finally gets "unstuck" it starts right up. Could this be a problem with my key or something more? :confuse:
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    My #1 guess is the secondary air injection system 99-01 4.3L have them. A pump under the radiator that blows air into the exhaust for about 1 minute on start up to lower emissions cause you have heated oxygen sensors, ain't you lucky. Really, there is a check valve that always fails in the front on the exhaust manifold and a short L shaped hose that connects it to a pipe and when the valve goes the rubber hose burns thru and thats the noise so feel around the bottom side of that hose and a dealer only piece at about $7. Have a whole page on how to fix that system so look there first and let me know. One of these on both sides.

    Second, the lower intake manifold gaskets on 96up (lucky you again) always leak around 80-100k miles and if the coolant is dropping slowly (watch the reservior) water leaks into the valley on the lifters and often the noise is the first sign - you will not see any water in the oil cause it evaporates or burns off but does effect the lifters and later cam bearings, then the mains so look at that too.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Thats normal pressure for Blazer 4.3L, but on accel I would expect 50. As to hot smell is it dex cool like a bad maple syrup burning smell? See the reply above on the noise and lower intake internal leaks. Upper radiator hose leak or water pumps leak out 1 of 2 small holes and the bypasss hoses, then 2 heater hoses so look there too. Also, if that smell is inside could be a heater core leak.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    97 have a common defective ignition switch (search the posts) or the key/tumbler and lock (does the steering wheel lock and not want to unlock so have to wiggle it to turn the key?). If you mess in the sterring column pull the air bag fuse first!!!!!
  • franklimfranklim Posts: 11
    Thanks for the info guys!! I will check all three suggested possible causes and will let you know how it turns out. I am thinking that it would be worthwhile to go ahead and swap out the lower intake manifold gasket while the vehicle is out of service whether it is my root cause today or not. If not now, it sounds like it will come back to bite me latter anyway. Thanks!

    God Bless
  • dwhyte99dwhyte99 Posts: 4
    Well I feel dumb. I ended up finding my other key and it was the key all along. I guess it must be chipped or something for it not to work. But the steering wheel never locked or anything. Thanks though.
  • redblazerredblazer Posts: 2
    My window will only go dow a few inches and then it just makes a clicking noise, i didnt think that the motor or switch is bad or it wouldn't move at all any ideas. Thanks for the previous advise i believe its either a bad line to the spider or a bad spider injector leaking.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    When it starts to click can you push the window down alittle and will it start again? Is this happening with the vehicle running - asking cause low voltage could cause this when the vehicle is off with an old failing battery. The motor has a small drive gear on it and the window mechcanism has a large 5" cam gear that moves the window up and down on a track. You will have to take the door panel off (2 small bolts under the arm rest and 1 screw on the plastic cup behind the opening handle then pull the panel and the plastic push pins pull out) and see if the rollers are greased and the track is not binding, but often the motors do fail starting by intermittant operation. Motors are rivited on and you have to drill them out (4 rivets) and all stores carry replacements with instructions.
  • auto9999auto9999 Posts: 86
    I have a 2000 Blazer, Trailblazer trim, 4 door, 4WD, 54,000 original miles. Water comes in from the sunroof after rain, stays at the rear half in the roof, and makes splashing noise when the vehicle turns at corners.

    In the past when the water stayed in the front half of the ceiling, the mechanic put the air pump for inflating tires from the sunroof, and tried to blow the draining holes at the front corners above A-pillars. How would the rear draining holes be cleaned? The rear draining holes seems to be too far away from the sunroof. Do they have to remove the inside roof panel to reach the rear draining holes?
  • franklimfranklim Posts: 11
    Tried pulling the spark plug. No change in the frequency of the clanking noise. At idle, it clanks about 4-5 times a second and speeds up only when RPM is increased. Sounds like it's not the wrist pin (whew).

    No pump under the radiator on mine. There is an air hose that enters the driver's side exahaust manifold at the back of the engine. The hose goes from there to a flange the front of the the intake manifold (near the water neck). No leaks on it. Also, the sound continues well after a minute of starting the vehicle. Actually seems to slowly get louder the longer it runs.

    Next up, the lower intake manifold gaskets. I am going to go ahead and replace it. If it's not a problem already it sounds like it soon will be. Might at as well swap it out while I have things apart. Water level has been slowly going down so this one has some potential.
    QUESTION:
    Should I go ahead and replace the lifters, pushrods, other, while in there? Also, what wear/damage should I look for as an indication of what's causing the noise?

    God Bless,
    Michael
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Yes, if blowing the drains out did not work from the bottom at the pillars did not work try vacuuming from the top otherwise its take out the head liner. I'm picturing maybe a funnel with a small end and the shop vac taped to the larger end for a good suction at the hole, but I have never had to do this - my 2 with sunroofs have never clogged (yet). The risk with blowing is that the hose may break or detach and stain the head liner.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Sorry you did say 96 so you have no pump.
    As for the damage, when you pull the lower intake the valley will probably be a dark orange from the dex cool and that will be the proof of the internal leaking. As for lifters and damage, on my 4 Blazers that I had this leak on and replaced the gaskets, I cleaned the valley out and poured oil over the lifters and cam area, then put new oil (high milegae type with the additives) and filter in, ran it and changed after 500 miles, replaced agiain and no noises. On one it took about 1000 miles before the lifters were totally noise free at startup. Your idea to change the lifters is the best way to avoid another intake removal and I looked at rockauto online and they were $9 each (x12). Beware of many posts on the correct torque because for 96 up with the spider type injection its 11 ft lbs final torque - NOT 35 as some post (thats for the older manifold style).
  • misscaldmisscald Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Blazer i just recently replaced the battery,starter, fuel pump,fuel filter and distributor. The truck had been cranking funny even after all was replaced but it would start. Now it wont turn over at all. I hear a funny cranking and the truck shakes a bit but no fire. The volt gauge is low when i try to turn the ignition over. It seems that when i get to around a half tank of gas the truck wants to stall out, mainly when i slow down or come to a stop. Im just wondering if anyone can help! I have no idea if its something electrical or mechanical. :cry:
  • franklimfranklim Posts: 11
    I pulled the intake manifold. Definite signs on the gasket and head areas that the water passages were leaking, especially on the driver's side rear of the engine. Quite a bit of the orange-tan chalky residue outside of the water port. Also visible distorion on the gaskets at all four water ports. Pretty lackluster job at applying RTV on the fore and aft "lip" betwen the lower intake manifold gaskets. Only subtle hints of orange down in the lifter valley, below the river's side rear water port being the most significant sign of leakage down into the valley. I am going to swap out the lifters and do as you and give everthing in the valley an oil bath, put it all back together and change the oil. May take some extra time to clean up the intake ports. Thanks again for sharing your detailed knowledge!

    God Bless,
    Michael
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    This is hard by email with so many possibilities. I am somewhat lost on the series of events that happened causing you to change all this but I'll take a shot (you may have to clear me up). Your Blazer basically died (whats the mileage and is it 4wd?) so you changed the above parts, it started but ran badly, and now it cranks but does not start. If this is the sequence, I would suggest making sure the dist is installed correctly and not 1 tooth off. Is the dist wire to the PCM plugged in and snap in the connector? Check that the plug wires are in fact to the correct plugs cause on the drivers side the cap is actually front to rear 3-1-5 out to the cylinders (pass side wires out are 2-4-6). If high mileage, did you change the plugs and test the wires for breaks. Assume new cap and rotor. Starters some times do not line up with the flywheel (or ring gear) and can jam the starter tooth in it or not engage - the 4wd starters are a pain to get out due to the front transfer case and have to be rotated 180 so maybe the solenoid was damaged.
    Was there (and is there still) a lower intake manifold leak with the coolant dropping in the reservior? If its been going on for some time you may have internal engine problems (might).
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Glad to help cause I've had many problems with all mine and had to search long and hard sometimes to get a real answer. Often the water pump goes out shortly after you do the intake due to all the dex cool deposits getting stirred up/dislodged and sometimes the heater core too. Dex cool does not response to air in the system very well and thats it biggest failing. Good luck.
  • franklimfranklim Posts: 11
    Great! I just replaced the water pump less than a month ago. The previous owner had a lot of trouble with the Dex Cool. Replaced the radiator, heater core, thermostat and even had the freeze plugs pull and the whole engine cleaned out because of it. Hoepfully I will not see more problems after all of that.

    God Bless,
    Michael
  • tims91tims91 Posts: 1
    Hi Bill,
    I have the every same problem with my 91, however the panel stayes lite until I put the parking lites and or the headlites on. Then the only thing (unless it is dark) I can see is the oil pressure waring light blinking as the sending unit is shot and I have to replace it. Where you able to find a fix or did you have it repaired?
    Thanks, have a great day.
    Tim, MA
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    power windows and door locks do not work no juice at the fuse box and all fuses and breakers are good ideas???? :confuse:
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    everything else works :)
  • franklimfranklim Posts: 11
    I pulled the valve covers, rocker arms and pushrods last night. Here where I see the Dex coloraton: On iron ledge in lifter valley below the water port on the head in front passenger-side and rear driver-side. I also see the same signs under the valve covers at the same locations. It appears that the coolant leaked from the intake gasket into the lifter valley, down the milled oil port in the head and into the top of the head and pooling by base of the exhaust valve spring. Is this possible?

    God Bless,
    Michael
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    I'd believe in thru the intake port to the head or leaking between the intake and valve cover (common)and seeping in. Seal around those water ports and torque evenly in steps - the rears are dead ends on both sides (look at intake and no connection). Must be a hold over from earlier models with diff intakes.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    89-94 with the digital dash have known cicuit board problems and search online and you can get the board for about $50 or complete cluster for $150 rebuilt. This assumes you have no wire shorts behind the lights so look up there first for a bare or nicked wire.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    You pulled the fuse and tested with a meter in the correct fuse holder slot and no 12V (meter common on frame and hot to each terminal one at a time in slot - one hot and one not with fuse out)and you verified the meter works on the battery first (have to ask).
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    did not test to ground only across terminals on fuse panel and continuity on breakers (fuses) these are resetable fuses... nothing on my meter
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    yes it is a working meter :shades:
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Did you test on volts DC at the fuse slots to see if power to the fuse the way I stated above. Usually +12.6v gets into the door but the ground can be bad thats why I asked to make sure you actually checked that and not just the fuse itself. Then its into the door itself for tests from there (or not).
  • dpoirier54dpoirier54 Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I was just wondering if your blazer solution is still working.
    I have a 2000 blazer that stops for no apparent reason. I've replaced oxygen sensors and fuel pump. It will run fine for a week or so and then it just stops. It doesn't seem to matter whether I'm at a light or driving down the highway. I have seen my security light go on sometimes but most of the time it's off. After about 10 minutes the blazer starts just as if nothing was wrong.
    Hope you can help.
    Thanks,
    Dick
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    did not test the fuse panel to a ground such as a door or frame yes these are the right slots yes the breakers are good..even checked for voltage with the door closed but did i mention the the problem is with both doors? thank you for being patient with me am familliar with d.c. voltage should'nt i have voltage across both terminals for a single fuse where the one fuse goes? am i making any sense to you :) at the fuse panel??all the other circuits are working fine wipers horn heater just cant roll down the windows and well..am not too worried bout the lock thing as the drivers side switch quit locking the passenger side door some years ago.j
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    the way i understand it the power comes from the battery through the fuse box to the switch then to the relay and then to the window motor and to ground..if the plug for some reason came loose on one of the swithces came loose would that have a bearing on this..dont wanna rip the door panel off just yet ( i have before to replace a switch some time ago).. but like i said there is no juice at the fuse panel i will try a different ground and let you know thanx
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Well, I did not have this problem yet, but GM bulletin# 01-08-56-001A June 01 for 98-01 Blazers states:

    Subject: Security lamp illuminated on the IP, engine stalls, no start, DTC B2960

    This is the due to incorrect Passlock sensor voltage (intermittent) received by the body control module.
    Bottom line, take it to the dealer 0.9 hour to fix with a scanner and there are 4 pages of procedures on connectors etc so save yourself the headache without the tools.
    They have done these and its probably around $100 well spent!
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    For 2 slot fuses or circuit breakers: fuse block is + (positive) only so putting the 2 volt meter probes on the fuse slots will do nothing. One side is hot and the other dead till the fuse completes the circuit for +. One probe to a ground (bare frame or negitive battery side) and the other in the fuse slot will give a reading on the hot side slot, while with the fuse out the other slot is dead. 94 up diagram shows only 30A circuit breaker for windows and the window lockout switch in the circuit. The locks shows a 20A circuit breaker. You tested across these and they were good but they are thermal so a short may pop (heat up) quickly then reset. Then also a relay in the lock circuit that is pos and neg to activate. But both circuits are out on both sides but locks and windows are separate circuits which would suggest a short in the wiring to the door - open the door and pull the boots on the harness door to frame and check there. No burning smell at the fuse block I assume or recent damage. The switch panel on the door should pop out so probe there for + too.
  • bobbyhotelbobbyhotel Posts: 1
    I don't know much about cars, but my 01' Blazer reacts to every bump on the road. It's almost like I don't have any shocks. Are they normally bad with absorbtion or do I need new shocks?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    They are usually stiff cause they have gas pressurized Bilstin shocks. These maintain excellent roll control so Blazers don't trip or roll over like some other brand SUVs. Tires and air pressure also play a major part of ride and if you have put other tires on they may be the reason. The Uniroyals and Michelins that came stock or Crossterrains seem to be OK. Had some BFGs that were really stiff. Also inflation pressure at 35psi gets better mileage but you feel more. Have origimal shocks on all mine at 145k. 120k, 100k, and 85k miles. Reflex shocks have been getting good reviews by Blazer owners if you wish to soften up some on 2wd or 4wd.
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