Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Did you get a great deal? Let us know in the Values & Prices Paid section!
Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs

Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

1394042444572

Comments

  • tcanadytcanady Posts: 1
    I would like to find out if anyone knows if the front seat of a 2dr Blazer will move up far enough to put a baby carseat in the back seat? if so, how do you move the seat?
  • jkev229jkev229 Posts: 2
    My truck had that same problem a few weeks ago and it turns out that my Front Acuator went bad. When you have it in 2wheel hi its really loud and when You put it in 4 wheel hi the noise somewhat dies down. Go to the dealer if possible and have them put your truck on a lift so they can see if that is the problem. Im pretty sure it is since my 03 did the same thing.
  • What difference does it make if you have a 2 or 4 wheel drive when trying to get a Carburetor Kit for my 1987 Blazer, V6 2.8 engine with throttle body injection Carb. 3 different Auto Stores could only find Kit for 2 wheel drive and mine is 4 wheeel.
  • mwhite1mwhite1 Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Blazer with 123,000 miles. It was running fine up to 2 weeks ago. I took it out on Saturday, got back in on Sunday and it wouldn't start. I didn't hear the fuel pump hum so figured that is what it was. My wife logged on to this site and after reading all the different messages about fuel pumps, I decided it might not be the fuel pump, could be any number of problems. Before I was able to tackle it, it sat for 2 weeks. I got in and it started right away. We went out, parked it, got back in, and it would not start. I let it sit for a few minutes, and turned the key a few times and nothing. Waited a few more minutes and it started. I got it back home and decided I was going to break down and buy a new fuel pump, but before I installed it, I took the fuel tank off and the old fuel pump out. I reconnected the wiring to the old fuel pump out of the tank, and turned on the key and it would hum as if it were working. I did this 2 or 3 times and on the third turn it did not work. Instead of completely installing the new fuel pump I did the same thing, and it did the same thing. After 2 or 3 turns of the key it quit working. I would like to be able to return the new pump, if it isn't the problem, so I have not completely intalled it or reattached the fuel tank. I reassembled everything with the old fuel pump and now I get nothing. I wonder if it could be wiring or something less expensive than the pump. Any ideas at all would be much appreciated.
  • My abs light recently went on and after a quick inspection, I found that the sensor wire going into the right front hub was snapped off. I stripped the wires back and did a half hearted splice job to see if that would turn the light off, but it is still comes on about 1 second after I start the engine. Do I just need to splice it better, does the light need reset somehow, or might it be something else? Any suggestions?
    Thanks.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Doubt any diff but look at the parts catalogs online and see or call the dealer and ask.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    If you looked at the recent posts the pressure has to be tested at the fuel rail running and with the key on engine off - just knowing it runs is good but if the pressure is too low (below 60) it will not start and if below 54 it runs crappy. At 123k if the tank is already out just change it - will fail soon anyway!
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    If you spliced it and taped it it should clear the code when you drive and the computer gets good signals. Or when it was cut it also damaged the sensor. Is the plug in connector securely plugged in about 1.5 to 2 feet up from the hub (usually find on the frame rail behind the mud flap). There is a special ABS code reader required.
  • I own a 97 Jimmy and when driving it sometimes wants to shut off. I can sometimes put it in nuetral to restart it but most time I have to make sure its in park, turn they key off for a few seconds then restart and it fires right up. Runs great and Gives no warning when it decides just to shut off. Is it eletrical or a fuel problem? Any suggestions?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    97 is known for faulty ignition switches that cause those problems. Also can test the fuel pressure at the fuel rail for at least 54 psi when running and 60 with the key on engine off. Thats the two biggies. I'd bet on ignition, but...
  • Thanks Repairdog! Turns out, I had fixed it. All I had done yesterday is just restart the truck after the splice. When I drove it to work this morning, the abs light cleared. Makes sense now that I think about it, speed sensor had no speed to compare anything to.
  • Please help....after the vehicle warms up it stalls. fuel pump is fine, but there is a loss of voltage when accelerated.

    any help would be appreciated....
    Thanks!
  • mitch66mitch66 Posts: 3
    I have a 1999 Chevrolet Blazer that has braking problems. When I apply the brakes I get a crunching/moaning sound mixed with an ABS type feel. The more frequent the braking, the worse the problem. Just last week, I applied the brakes and didn't think they were going to work. I had my foot pressed all the way down. It finally stopped. The pads & rotors are fine. No ABS Lights and no leaking fluid. Your immediate help is needed. Several times I've brought it to the shop for concerns and they say they found nothing. Oh there is a problem, so please help.
  • mwhite1mwhite1 Posts: 2
    I don't know if I don't understand how it works, but why did it run when it was out of the tank and there wasn't any pressure, but when I put it back in the tank and re-installed the tank it wouldn't run.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Fuel pressure was tested with the correct readings I have to assume then. So, have you had the battery and alternator tested if the volt gauge isn't reading approx 14 when running? The battery could be failing with internal shorts and/or failed cells. Blazers get strange without correct voltage - could effect other systems. Any work done recently to the Blazer? No SES light on?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    I would take it to a Chevy dealer and leave it till they determine the cause - for your safety and others.
    If in the brake system, it sounds like a bad master cylinder, possible power brake booster leak (is the hose from it to the intake manifold good, rubber gromet good, and the connection not leaking - also the intake connection is a housing that can rotate and disconnect). This needs to be seen to determine the cause. ABS module defects should show codes with the ABS light on and using an ABS reader. As a last thought, look at the flex hoses on all wheels and see if when the brakes are pushed any have a bulge or bubble - you stated no leaks in any lines so the reservior should be full and not dropping.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Not sure how you tested it but my guess would be a ground or bad connector. It has a motor in it so possible dead spot in it on the windings. Cheap plastic crap is what I always say to myself working on my 4 Blazers. The big question is does the new one work correctly!
  • mitch66mitch66 Posts: 3
    Hi RepairDog:

    I have an update. I will be sending the vehicle to the shop on friday. In addition to your thoughts above, I did notice that when the brakes act up, you can also hear on the left front side a ticking sound that is in sync with the pulsation feeling I'm getting on the brakes.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    I went out and looked at my 99 and you have the Kelsey-Hayes 4WAL system located on the drivers side under the hood (black cover with name on it). Looked up some info as follows:

    From- Motor:The nuts & bolts of Kelsey-Hayes 4WAL, Jun98
    By- Black, Ludlow
    (partial test only from a longer article)
    Used on millions of GM trucks through the years, this antilock system can be a handful to diagnose and service for the uninformed. Here's how to avoid the pitfalls.

    The Kelsey-Hayes 4WAL ABS system has been used on many GM light trucks through the years. So chances are pretty good you'll tangle with one real soon. Like all ABS, the 4WAL system is designed to keep the vehicle under control during heavy braking. To meet this challenge, however, there may be some sacrifice in pedal feel and even increased stopping distances under certain conditions. Make sure your customers know this and understand what to expect from the system to prevent you from wasting hours trying to diagnose something that may be perfectly normal.

    The 4WAL system is nonintegral, meaning it uses a conventional booster rather than a separate pump to provide power assist. As a result, there is no external accumulator to worry about, and the pressures you are exposed to during service and repair are the same as with conventional brakes.

    The Electronic Control Unit (ECU) of the 4WAL system is attached directly to the business part of the system-the Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV). This assembly can be found under the hood on the right side on pickups, Blazers and Suburbans; beneath the brake booster bolted to the firewall on Astro/Safari vans; and under the vehicle about a third of the way back on the passenger side on G-series vans.

    System Operation

    The 4WAL system has three channels of control-right front, left front and rear axle. Although some applications have four wheel speed sensors, if one rear wheel locks, hydraulic pressure to both rear wheels will be reduced. This method of control is not as inefficient as it may seem, since the front wheels do as much as 80% of the work during heavy brake application.

    The 4WAL system is an active system, meaning it's able to provide energy to reapply the brakes after pressure is released. The vented fluid is stored in accumulators within the BPMV and pushed back to the wheels by an electric pump. Be aware that the solenoids and pump motor can consume up to 45 amps during use, so don't forget to check out the battery and charging system as part of your diagnosis.

    Self-Tests

    Two different self-tests are performed whenever the vehicle is started. The first happens as soon as the key is turned on. During this period, the red BRAKE and yellow ANTILOCK lights will come on for 2 seconds. The ECU then tests for continuity in the wheel speed sensor circuits and for proper voltage in the pump circuit. The ANTILOCK light should turn off if no electrical faults are detected; the BRAKE lamp will stay on if either the parking brake is applied or there's a hydraulic problem in the brake circuits.

    Once the vehicle is moving and the brake pedal is released, the BPMV is tested hydraulically by the ECU. This testing includes the pump and the control valves. The wheel speed sensor inputs are also dynamically tested at this time. If no faults are found, the 4WAL system is operational for the rest of the trip or until a fault is detected.
  • msloughmslough Posts: 2
    what is the ft lbs torque for 2000 jimmy 4x4 wheel bearing hub
  • mitch66mitch66 Posts: 3
    Excellent information. I just printed the entire article out and will give it to my tech. It has to be the ABS system. It all points to that. You are good !! I will definitely keep you in the loop on this. I've already recommended this site to co-workers !! My brakes are 70% of the time acting like they need ABS when they don't (dry pavement/normal stopping. I've owned the vehicle since day 1 and know what's normal and not and this is not. Thank you for everything to date.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    99up is 103 ft lbs per Hayes (98 and earlier is 180) for the CV axle hub nut (big 36mm one). The hub attachment bolts that are 18mm (hub to steering knuckle) are 77 ft lbs.
  • msloughmslough Posts: 2
    thanks alot repairdog
  • kozman1kozman1 Posts: 5
    I finally found out the problem. A guy at Jiffy Lube told me that there is a flap installed at the tank (To prevent someone sticking a hose down to steal gas)and this flap some times gets stuck.

    So me being an electrician, I jammed a piece of 6-4 range cable into the spout down to the flap and loosed it.

    Now it doesn't take 10 minutes to pump $20 worth of gas...
  • dolphin1dolphin1 Posts: 11
    Thank you repairdog. Ended up replacing both hubs. As other threads mentioned, the job was relatively easy. I used my tire to rest the rotor/caliper on while working on the hub assemblies.
    The hub assemblies were $115.00 each through AutoZone and they warranty them for one year.
  • izecoldizecold Posts: 3
    Hello, I am having the same problem with my blazer. The clicking noise is coming from the passenger seat around glove compartment. It is anoying, have you found the problem? I replaced the flasher but didnt get anything accomplished. please help.....
    thanks,
  • I got advice from you repair dogg and tried some things in reguards to testing fuel pump pressure in 98 jimmy thank you for that..with key in and in run position pump is reading over 60 psi..yet it still wont start..again i have done plugs, cap, drained and replaced fuel and changed fuel filter and tested pump and can only get the engine to start if i pour directly into the throttle body some gasoline... any more ideas?
  • jexteljextel Posts: 3
    I dont know what the problem is. It takes over 20 seconds to get to 60mph. And i have only gotten it up to 75. I know it's not a dragster but it should be faster than what it is.

    PS it has a new motor 67k miles. Also it has 31" tires on it. Can that be the problem?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Was this happening befor the tire change? Which engine is it, the 2.2 or 2.8 V6. On the V6 those were car motors and reaching way back in my brain I had one that kept having the choke assembly not open properly so not enough air getting in. Also check the air filter for restriction/dirty, look to see if any vac leaks (hoses), and how about the fuel filter - been changed?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Multifunction switch in the steering column - search and you will see all the posts.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    This one sat for 4 months - any possibility there is water in the gas or the tank full is over a year old and bad. If not, are there any codes with the SES light, i.e. after the key is in run position and all the other dash lights go out is the SES still on? If so read those codes out with a scanner. Did you replace the air filter. Make sure the vac hoses are not broken. In the intake above the air filter is a MAF sensor that can be sprayed with MAF/brake/electronic cleaner (not carb cleaner) - in a honey comb - for computer air flow readings and mixture. Any critter related wires eaten thru - had to ask!
  • teacup3teacup3 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Chevy blazer 4WD that just recently started to produce a sort of chirping/whistling sound upon acceleration. Of course it stops if I slow down and press the brakes. What could this be. I recently had it serviced, oil change, new air filter and tires rotated.

    Help
  • jexteljextel Posts: 3
    I dont know thats how i got the truck but i will be putting some 235/75/15's on it Mon.

    It doesnt have thatplastic thing thats connects it to the front of the grille(from the air cleaner)

    Ill check for vac leaks and fuel filter(where is that?)
  • hey guys i am haveing some trouble with my brakes every time i start to push on the brakes my seems my abs is trying to stop it at normal speed not sure what is wrong . can anyone help me on this

    thanks jamie oops its a 95 jimmy 4wd
  • When my Blazer is idle, the ticking is very loud. When I accelerate it isn't as noticeable. I was told it was the starter, and I had it replaced. However, that wasn't it. Also, when I sometimes stop, the noise is worse and even heads turn to look. When I make sharp turns, it sounds like a thud that doesn't want to stop. ANy clues?
  • jexteljextel Posts: 3
    In the morning i go to start the truck and it starts right up then she dies. and i have to go thru this about 3 times until shes running. And its a must to tap the gas pedal...
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    I would look at the carb - 85 only had them as I recall and they were a problem area as they got older. You can rebuild it with a kit or get a rebuilt (around 250-350 so not cheap) - Believe they also had a small fuel filter screwed in the carb base (I only have 98up Blazers 2nd gen with 4.3s). Follow the fuel line for the main filter cause may be under the Blazer. Is the fuel pump getting fuel to the carb, float set correctly, choke working, etc so this is a hard one to do remotely.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Is it engine or brake related by the noise location?

    Check the oil level first, then see if they forgot to connect something when they were under the hood. Look at the area behind the air intake assembly at the big air breather tube, then the PCV on the drivers side, and all the same vac hoses running along. Check to see if the air filter housing is all closed up again too.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Is the ABS or SES light on, if so what codes are read out. Speed sensors in the front hubs and 1 in the transfer case.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Where is the sound coming from - got to find location - engine, front hubs, driveshaft, trans, cause there are many things to look at. What mileage does this 04 (?) Blazer have on it and what was done recently that might ghave triggered the noise?
  • 19771977 Posts: 5
    Would like sender replacement procedures for '00 Silverado if possible-thanks.
  • I am having the same thing in a 87 s10 4x4. The oil gauge sending unit is on the driver side of motor above the front drive shaft. My wire fell of and was pulled off by the drive shaft. Oil gauge started jumping and within a few days motor would not turn over. I have replaced battery,starter&starter switch with no luck.I noticed the head lights and radio dont work.I didnt fix the oil sending units wires.As I did not think the problems were related.Hope that this helps.Please let me know if You find out what will fix or electricl gremlins.
  • The sending unit is on driver side of motor. On a 4x4 it is over the front drive shaft about 8" or 9" up. If gauge is jumping may want to look at message#1943
  • Does anyone know if I can access my computer through the stereo? If so, how?
    (2001 Blazer LS)

    Thanks!

    A :confuse:
  • mongo1mongo1 Posts: 49
    Hello folks, First I would like to say thank you to Edmunds and contributors such as "repairdog" for providing such a valuable service to the community. It is gratefully appreciated. Now, on to my question. I have a problem with my Climate Control A/C unit. As noted, the vehicle is a 2000 GMC Jimmy LST with Automatic Climate Control. Occasionally, the AC function will not turn on when switch is pushed. Instead, the light flashes three times. Eventually, the system will engage and cool down the vehicle nicely. I've measured 25 P.S.I. out the low side and 50 degrees at the vents so I don't think it is the compressor or Freon level. On searching the site, I found a similar problem brought to the forum in Message 1378 last July, but no one then could answer. I guess my question is, "Does the 3 flashes indicate some sort of code? and if so, can anyone here decipher? Thanks again in advance
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    No you can't. I saw that some loaded (LTZ)new style Trailbrazers that started in 2002 with 4.0 straight 6 engines (not the S-10s called trailblazers) had a feature like that but have never seen it. You need a code reader or stop by any major auto store and they read for free (so they can sell you parts).
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    I am not an AC expert but the flashing means it will not activate or turn on. You must be on an AC selectable setting and not defrost ones with the fan ON (not OFF) for it to come on. If you are on the Auto settings on the right and left knob try using another and see if it kicks on - possible dirty switches so rotate them a few times too - actually often works - same on the mirror and widow switches have to push several times to clean contacts. If you search there are some specofic places that are only AC questions so look for autoac - sorry I can't give links per forum rules. Due to having to pull a vac on these systems to work on this is one place I have a good shop do it cause these are known for defective AC compressors that the front seal leaks or blows out by 70k usually and the pressure switches fail also. I have also seen low voltage complaints so is the Blazer reading 14 volts or close when running - the gauges and accessories get strange on these then.
  • mongo1mongo1 Posts: 49
    Once again, I thank you for your quick reply Repairdog. Yeah, I spun the dials a couple of times but I seldom leave the dials in one place for more than a couple of days anyway. I live in Florida and if you don't practice that on everything electrical, you will soon be replacing potentiometers. It seemed to work fine today, so we will see. Once upon a time, I was AC/Delco certified in Air Conditioning and ignitions, but that was back when cars had magnetos and airconditioning consisted of 4 windows down at 80 MPH eating a snow cone! :shades: I actually am in the process of slowly rebuilding this vehicle anyway. Have just finished redoing the entire front end suspension and cooling system. I guess the AC will be next. Thanks again.
  • encoder motor??? I don't be thinking so.... right under the battery try is the vac canister... these little things are always going bad... if there is the slitest little vac leak from the diafram they don't work correctly...so what happens is that the 4x4 front diff dosen't lock up 100% can you get a growling noise... over a peroid of time it will not lock up at all and then all of a sudden it will lock up.

    after market replacment cost is about 50.00 and takes 30 minutes to change.
  • I installed a aftermarket steeing stabalizer on my 98 blazer 4x4... this took care of 90% of my front end problems and saves a lot of wear and tear on the front end. costs $100 for the kit and takes about 20 - 30 minutes for anyone to install.
Sign In or Register to comment.