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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair



  • mattso_99mattso_99 Posts: 1
    my 98 has had the waterpump replaced one month ago im losing coolant a little on the ground and lot over night after a day of driving. have to add a gallon of fluid each day. yes it overheating but when you put the heat on full blast it goes down from 210f to 180f--ish on the gage. where is the thermostat? should i replace that right away? also the heat was and is stuck on, no temp adjust inside ....
  • m0m0f3m0m0f3 Posts: 1
    Where is the temperature sensor located on my 2000 GMC Jimmy? The temperature reading bounces up and down between the correct temperature and a temp 30 or more degrees below actual temp. How expensive is this problem to have repaired? Is it something I can do myself?
  • alanothenalanothen Posts: 1
    Did you manage to fix this problem, I have much the same with my 2000 Jimmy.
  • ymibrokeymibroke Posts: 2
    As soon as I reach 25 miles per hour in 4 wheel drive this light comes on the dash and will not let me switch out of 4 wheel drive until I stop and turn the key off then I can return to 2 wheel drive. 4 wheel drive works fine but will not let me switch back. I went to a transmission shop and they have no idea what is wrong. Please give me advice.
  • rlwilliamsrlwilliams Posts: 1
    My blazer has about 93k miles on it and runs great only problem is that i cant drive during the night time. i have no tail lights or dash lights. everthing goes fine untill i hit a bump on the road and them soon blows the fuse. (EVERY TIME) i was told it was just a crossed wire, but how am i supposed to just "find a crossed wire" on a confusing wiring harness and plus how did it get crossed? i still dont kno what or why this problem is happening but if you do, all help is appreaciated!
  • john68john68 Posts: 3
    Haven't fixed it yet, I was hoping for some help from someone on this board who might have had a similar problem and solved it. Can anyone out there help, please?
  • First, I had the motor replaced because of the oil filter lines. Also, it won't start for days at a time, then it will start great for months. Or overnight. Pretty much the same as the other problems I read on the board. My real question is when I shut it off, it beeps 3 times.
    This was true of the old engine and the new. Also, have replaced 2 fuel pumps and fuel filters 4 times. Can anyone tell me where to find this beep code?
    Thanks, Bruce
  • boblazerboblazer Posts: 2
    I am installing a new gage and need to know whier the oil presur sending unit is located on the 4.3 liter engine.
  • boblazerboblazer Posts: 2
    It sounds like you have a blown head gascket, have it chaced as soon as pausable.
    Check your oil if it is higher then it should be,ie. above the full mark then this could mean you have a blown head gascket.Allso the oil will look brownish or milky, this indicates water in your oil.

    Bob Morin
  • right below the brake light under the carpeting is a small hole. insert a long neck screw driver and slide it to the right. the rear window should disengage. then you should be able to lower the tailgate. remove the paneling. should be 4 or six screws. then you can see the electric lock. most likly the plastic conector is broken off. a cheap and simple fix is a thin strip of metal. and three screws. put two screws in to the remaining plastic arm on the release servo. attach the third screw where the orginal should be. re assemble and enjoy.

    its alot cheaper compared to the replacement part. and can be done under 20 minutes.
  • poochpooch Posts: 1
    random misfires on 1 and 2 cyl. everything that mechanic can do he has done no change in miss at all snapon computer keeps showing random misfire 1 and 2
  • kfnoonankfnoonan Posts: 1
    I am having a issue with my turn signal. Not sure if it is the same as yours. My signal won't work if the 4 way flasher button is up but if I push it down then the signal will work but then I the sound as if my 4 way flashers are on but they actually are not if you look at them from the outside of the Blazer. I also have an issue with the wipers not always working and think it is all related because they are all controlled on the same arm.
  • dooleeydooleey Posts: 4
    Yes there is a problem with that the fix requires one other person and yourself the other person needs to push up and down on the hood while you pull the lever and thats it talking from experience i would also lubricate this once openend i have had no problem sence then.
  • boissonrboissonr Posts: 1
    I own a 95 Blazer, and I got the exact same problem, except the noise loudness varies with temperature, for an unknown reason, the noise and vibration is louder between 0 to 10 celsius !
    Anyway I got this problem since almost 2 years now !
    1. Right bearing as been replaced first, nothing has changed
    2. All bearings from the transfer case have been replaced as well, no change again.

    I don't think it's worth for me to put any more money on that car but please keep me informed if anyone knows the solution...

    Any ideas ??

  • shcshc Posts: 3
    4 wheel drive is not ment to be used on anything but dirt..the wheels rotate at different speeds during a turn and the wheel with faster rotation must skip. this will not happen on asphalt or cement only dirt,mud rocks etc. the other method of drive is called all wheel drive which is different from 4 wheel drive. signed....the voice of experence sc
  • shcshc Posts: 3
    I had same problem ... change spark plug wires..You can identify problem visually by looking for two wires crosing each other and a white power caused by the spark between the two wires. also could spark to a grounded location(frame)
  • sleukemsleukem Posts: 22
    My sister owns a 1998 LS 4WD Blazer. When you shift into reverse, the vehicle will make a loud popping sound as it starts to move. It doesn't do it all the time and it doesn't make a difference whether it is in 2WD or 4WD. Can someone please tell me what this is? The mechanic can't figure it out! :(
  • blazogloryblazoglory Posts: 1
    My 1994 Chevy Blazer (S-10)'s instrument light has apparently burned out (don't know my speed, fuel level, etc). I don't believe it's the fuse, as the warning lights and sounds associated with the panel light fuse are working. The garage wants $75 to remove the dash. Is this a repair a do-it-yourself-er can manage? If so, what's the drill? Thanks :blush:
  • john68john68 Posts: 3
    I take it you're talking about the rear brake lights, right? If so, which side should I insert the screwdriver? Talked to the dealer's mechanic just to see what their response would be, of course they said they never heard of doing this, but I trust you have. Does it always work? What if when I lower the tailgate I can't get it back up, is that a possibility? I worry 'cause this car is garaged and if I can't get it back up, I won't be able to put it in the garage. Anyway, these are my concerns and I really thank you for responding..
  • joepmoorejoepmoore Posts: 1
    Check that the nob isn't stripped or cracked. Although you turn the nob the shaft its connected too isnt turning
  • steve72steve72 Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 blazer with 21000 miles. The wife ran out of gas on an incline. She filled up the tank with about 8 or 10 gallons of gas, but the blazer still won't start. In fact, when you turn the key, the fuel gauge reads empty, and you can't hear the fuel pump engage. Don't tell me I'm going to have to take this to a mechanic all because she ran out of gas. Any suggestions?
  • girtygirty Posts: 1
    Well I am feeling your transmission pain!! I have a 98 blazer and it started slipping at about 2 rpm region took it to a dealer like an idiot and told me the transmission is shot..not about to pay them tons to fix it so i was looking into getting a used one but I was thinking about getting it rebuilt. I dont think i will ever buy another blazer, in 2 years i have replaced the radiator, water pump, alternator, lower ball joints and now the transmission. Unbelieveable! I am glad it just isnt me having these problems that i am reading about...
  • ugarph1982ugarph1982 Posts: 8
    I have the same problem with my '00 Jimmy. I've found an OEM GM updated part for $195. The thing is that so many other things on the truck rattle that I can handle one more noise from the bearing. My question: Does the loose assembly produce a safety concern? Is there a much higher chance that it could pop off during operation and cause a huge mess, or is it simply going to be an annoyance and just fail non-catastrophically at some time? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
  • 1989 S-10 Blazer 4x4 2.8L engine (replaced 4.3L). I bought this car in 2003, thought the a/c just needed charged. It was still an R12 system. I decided not to convert to R134 and I bought a product called Freeze12 and followed the directions. In a nutshell, I have replaced a leaking high pressure discharge hose. There are no leaks at all in the system. There is a full charge of Freeze12 in the system. I put on a new low pressure switch on the accumulator. The clutch engages then disengages continuously (start-stop-start-stop, etc.), like it did before I replaced this switch. If I jump the low pressure switch, the clutch runs like it should, but no cold air at any time. The belt is not squeeling, as I believe it would be if the compressor was bad. If I drive with the a/c or defroster on (whether with the jumper on or using the switch like I should), the a/c-heater fuse blows in a very short time. I can only drive with the heater or the vent on without the fuse blowing, but I get vent air coming out of the floor heater and front window defroster if I have the control switch set to Heater, and vent air coming out of the floor heater and vents if I have the control switch set Vent. No cold air blows at any time. (The air coming out of the wrong vents was a problem before I did any under-the-hood a/c work, and I previously replaced the entire heater-a/c controls on the dash, as well as the blower switch, to no avail.)

    Suggestions appreciated.
  • I have a 2000 Blazer which I bought new. I have replaced both left and right front wheel bearing hubs and upper and lower ball joints. These part failures started right around 30,000 miles with the latest problem a left front bearing hub at 56,000. Today my Blazer is in the shop for a front right wheel bearing second time replacement at 61,000 miles. The right was replaced in February 04 with 50,000 miles on the vehicle so I didn't get very many miles out of and it's out of warranty. Anyway the wheel bearing was making a loud humming sometimes howling sound. These repairs are still less than a new car payment but I am disappointed with this vehicle and because of this experience I won't buy GM again.
  • Your Service Engine Soon light blinks only for type A Miss-fires. The oil/Coolant leaks could be shorting out your Ignition system. If not that then your plugs may be Fouled, or wires may need replacing. As a side note, Check Timing chain for ware, should be checked after 100k. Check bottom of heads for leaks. You may need head job. Both antifreeze and oil are in the heads and may be leaking from same place.
  • joevettejoevette Posts: 1
    Whenever I press and release the brakes on my 96 blazer LS, there is a loud noise that appears to be coming from right front side. Have changed the rotor, calapier, brake pads, and shocks. Need help finding out what's causing the noise and how to fix it
  • A follow up on message 1275.
    I got my 2000 Blazer back with a new right front wheel bearing hub yesterday. No charge for the hub or labor to replace it. I have my work done by a local garage and they are mostly less expensive than the Chevy dealer. I was real happy that they replaced the hub at no charge. The mechanic felt the life span of this NAPA part should have been 50000 + miles . Find a good local mechanic and take all your business to them and you'll be amazed at how much money you'll save not to mention much better customer service.
  • crashon290crashon290 Posts: 1
    Re: no power when driving ???? Any one find a fix?
  • y2kdocy2kdoc Posts: 3
    not real sure but if you mean the interior or the lights. I had this once and all i did was cut on the high light switch and off and then cut the lights of and then back on and they came on weird. had no problem since. may be a short. then once the dome and panel would not work and we have an override button, if you have one all i did was kept pushing it in and out and finally it cam back on and had not had a problem since either. dont know if this will help just a sugesstion.
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