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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mrrydiamrrydia Posts: 2
    repairdog, I will definitely use your response to seem more knowledgeable at the dealer.. thanks very much.

    Your reply reminded me that I did have my heater core replaced about 7 or 8 months ago (after steam started coming through my air vents). It was after the heater core was replaced that I started hearing gurgling behind the dash and was told that it was normal, so I never did anything about it. The heater core being replaced didn't seem to have any affect on my consistently leaking coolant.

    What I am still not sure of, is whether this on-going coolant problem had anything to do with my engine throwing a rod, and the oil level apparently being low. Is it normal for the oil level to be so low and sludgy after 4k miles since getting it changed? I am very worried that they will say it is my fault for not keeping up with maintenance, but I have been dilligent about it (despite being 1k past due this time). Or is it my fault? repairdog or anyone?
  • zaayzaay Posts: 6
    I have a 97 Blazer 4 door with 4x4 and my gas gage jumps, it is not reliable, my tank my be empty and it will read half, full, or quarter tank. It just jumps back and forth. I was told that it could be a fuse or that a circuit board needs to be replaced but I'm not sure. Do anybody have any knowledge about this situation?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Was the oil just low or sludgy (oil and water in a milky mix) cause these are two different things. If the oil was lower than showing on the dipstick but not mixed with water that could be your fault because I believe that GM still states about 600 miles per quart use is within their specs so at 4.5 qts when full oer their spec you where in the wrong - actually more realistic for a 99 would be burning about a qt per 2000 miles so you would still have been down 2 qts - only a guess from me on the last. All Blazers have remote oil cooler lines running to the radiator and all leak at the crimped pressure fittings and if one of them started leaking fast it could dump all your oil in a short time also - not their fault then either. Look under the Blazer for lots of oil covering the underside for this.

    If it was a milky mix of Dex cool and oil that would throw a rod for sure as well as trash all engine internal bearings. That would be the contestable area if the dealer checked and never found where the coolant was going when you took it in.

    Bottom line is you have to known specifically which condition occurred in the engine. Oh, that gurgling was definately not normal and the new heater core should have fixed that but if the coolant was still leaking then a low level would get air in the core and cause it and also may have overheated the engine, again the dealer should have found this if asked.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Common problem and if the fuse or pump relay the engine would be stalling or not start normally. The pump and level sending unit are 1 piece and a search will shown you all the people that have had problems. The sender has contacts that slide with the level all internal to the tank. You can check the connectors at the top of the tank for corrosion and hope its there but if you are near 100k its time for a new unit or set your trip OD and get used to it. About $500 for the pump and install at most shops.
  • wavef0rmwavef0rm Posts: 1
    2000 Chevy S10 Blazer LS:
    Just last night my steering started to bind at every turn. If it's a slight turn the binding is almost not noticeable. In a sharp turn (pulling in to a parking space) the truck almost stops. It feels almost like the tires are hitting the inside of the wheel well, but there are no rub marks in the wells or wear on the tire. I assume it's a problem with the suspension binding somewhere. Any idea where I should begin looking?
  • zaayzaay Posts: 6
    Can't that part be pulled from another vechicle instead of paying that?
  • zaayzaay Posts: 6
    Can that part be pulled from another car?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    If 4wd sounds like you hit the 4Hi or Auto4Hi switch.
    Otherwise could be ball joints or steering linkage based on mileage and how often it was greased. Hubs usually grate or grind. If 4wd cold be CV axles.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Used pumps will probably do the same thing very soon. Its a pain dropping the gas tank at home without lifting the vehicle up, gas in tank, straps to unbolt, several gas lines and filler to disconnect so - Yes you can but I would not spend that much time and effort on a used one. There are aftermarket pumps/sending units but seen lots of reports on wrong gaskets with them so if you get a cheaper on closely match them up.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    Check with the dealer, a lot of the new vehicles the sender is serviced separately, even GM does not want to replace a whole module on warranty just for a sender. The Malibu, the 2000 Cavalier and others.
  • zaayzaay Posts: 6
    Are the chances of me finding a good pump against me? If not, do I need to look for a pump from just blazer, jimmy, and bravado, or do others carry the type?
  • wahlwahl Posts: 1
    The Red BRAKE light on my dash came on today. What does it mean?
  • il203il203 Posts: 3
    Two problems: 1) I have a 2000 Jimmy that for the past year has had a gas gage that jumps around. Particulary once down to 1/2 a tank. (good thing the trip odometer still works!) Most recently, the car truck periodically will not start. Turns over though. The mechanic checked the fuel pump pressure and found it to be low. Otherwise, he can find nothing else wrong. He is hesitant to replace the pump due to the cost without knowing it is the problem for sure. I have heard this problem could be everything from a bad fuel pump to bad battery to frame rail cable. Any advice on the best way to find the problem?
    2) Driver side power window periodically will not work. Could this be an electrical problem or just a bad motor?

    thx.
  • eddie24eddie24 Posts: 2
    my 1997 s10 blazer is 4wd and has 115,000 miles on it. the problem i am having is a noise from the front right wheel that sounds like an airplane landing when you slow down. if i put it in 4wheel high the noise stops. i take it out of 4 wheel drive and it will start again after a while. any idea what is causing this? thanks
  • I am replacing the intake gasket on my 97 Blazer (4.3 Vortec V6). Does the distributor connect with the intake manifold on this engine? Just wondering before I dive in if I have to take the distributor off to get to the intake gasket. Thank you.
  • blaze4x4blaze4x4 Posts: 29
    If the Dex cool turns to sludge, why can't you completely flush system and replace with the glycol based coolant?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Assuming not the yellow ABS light: Probably that your emergency brake pedal is not releasing all the way - see if after you pull the handle that the pedal is all the way up. Has a spring under there that may be catching or there is a switch that the pedal arm contacts to turn the light out.

    Do you have brake lights - all of them? If not there is another switch on the brake pedal that activates them when the pedal is pushed.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    As you found in searches you know what to check.
    When the Blazer does NOT start, do you hear the fuel pump spin up when you try (if not sure turn key to RUN position before START and listen - can't miss that hum. A low pressure could be a clogged fuel filter so try that first. Then if the pressure is low (how low?) the start condition needs over 60 psi for the richer start mode so after the first try does it start the 2nd try? Check the pump relay under hood drivers side case.

    Yes on the window - could be a motor or electrical. First push the up/down switch several times and see if dirty contacts. Then open/close door a few times to get a good ground on the pins/bushings. Then, pull the door panel (remove 2 bolts under the arm rest handle and 1 screw on opener plastic behind handle, then pull out - plastic push pins - then lift off the window lip). The whole switch panel on the door just snaps out (push to rear and leift out) and vcan be passed thru the panel as you remove it and set aside. Check that the door switch works with a volt meter at the motor plug in, if switch good tap the motor and see if it works, if not take a jumper wire from a good frame ground (bare metal) to the window motor mounting metal and see if it works (door pins/bushings may be rusted and not good ground). Otherwise put a new motor in.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    So, are the brake rotors and pads good up front, i.e. is this brake related. If not hubs should grind or make noise always when going bad and the right will be noisier when turning left (pressure all goes on right). Did you look at the CV axle boots - ripped and grease all over then replace. Also the pass side CV axle has a coupler that locks the CV axle to the front diff when you push 4Hi/Lo - check the gear oil in the front diff by unscrewing the bolt/plug on upper side and level should be up to bottom of hole - easy way most lube places will suck out and change it. Hope one of these easy things. Oh, are you sure its not the fan clutch acting up -locking the fan on full (thats a wind noise like a jet)?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Yes, there is 1 bolt/holddown bracket that must be removed and then the dist pulls out (after cap removed - careful on that cap and the torx screws so you don't break them) and remember to mark or take a pic so you know where to line the rotor up on reinstall - have to be right on or if off 1 tooth it will not start.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Yes, you can do that then get on the 2 year cycle with green. Dex cool (hate to defend it) only turns to sludge with air in the system. GMs 5yr/100k was the big mistake cause no one looks at their cooling system anymore till too late (ain't it great that the GM warranty is 3/36!). You should keep the reservior to the Hot Full line when the Blazer is cold to ensure air never gets in and always but a Stant cap - problems with the GM ones clogging as fluid moves back and forth from the res. I have Dex Cool in my 4 now after the intakes where changed on 3 of them.
  • kimm1kimm1 Posts: 1
    For the third time in 6 years, the ABS in my 1997 GMC Jimmy has failed! Past symptoms: The system activates itself & the car starts braking while I'm accelerating. The speedometer goes to zero & the transmission goes into neutral. Past repairs: ABS Chip & Sensors (2003) & Ignition Switch (2005). Today, it will have be towed to the dealership because I can't get it out of park unless I switch to 4WD. The problem started at 45,000 miles & has 82,000 miles on it right now. Has anyone else had this many problems in such a short time? Any solutions or am I driving a :lemon: ?
  • il203il203 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the advice.

    The pump does run. Fuel pressure is about 51 psi. Probably just low enough to give intermitent start. I want to say it starts better in warmer weather. Fuel filter was pretty clogged, but we replaced it and still have the problem. Mechanic did not think the pump relay was a problem because the vehicle will start at times. Looks like replacing the pump is the best direction at this point.

    Will a new fuel pump fix the jumping gas gage?

    On the Window - I need to check through your list, but yeah the pin / bushings are worn badly. Good chance that is the problem.

    Thanks for your help!
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Blazers do have their own personality!
    There are ABS sensors in the front hubs that have had a few problems and there is a bulletin out on "ABS activation at low speed (Clean wheel speed sensor mounting surface) for 95-03 Blazers #02-05-25-006 that I looked at - maybe your problem. Also there are vehicle speed sensors (VSS)on the transfer case for the rear wheels that can also go bad. Under vehicle rusting surfaces and wear are catching up with you, sorry - its age as well as mileage on these.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Yes, the sender is part of the new pump assembly from GM so you get a 2 for 1 fix!
    As for the pins/bushings, another known defect and many posts online on how to replace -parts are cheap but GM charges over $100 per door to do.
  • bchi1bchi1 Posts: 3
    Hi;
    I have a 93 s15 jimmy (4.3 w/ CPI)that has had a problem with rough idle and now has gotten much worse. Barely stays running (stalls alot) and I want to know if the TPS (throttle position sensor) or MAP sensor (Manifold vaccumme sensor)is bad causing the computer to dump in more fuel than required. (check engine lite on as well ... no surprise) I got this for my kid and did a complete tune up on it with plugs/cap/rotor and intake manifold gaskets and it did not run too bad but it always had a rough idle. (I checked the compression and all cylinders are at 130)

    He stomped down on it yesterday and did some hard acceleration and when he backed off then is when the real problems started .... real bad idle and barely stays running. I have a 94 S15 and it has been a good truck. I swapped out the computer and put it in the kids truck and ... no difference. If you pull the vaccumme hose off the power brakes the truck ups in speed (like there is too much fuel and when it gets more air it increases in speed .... burning the extra fuel). Catalytic converter gets real hot too (too much fuel going into it??) I read up on it some and decided that it could be the TPS or MAP sensors and possibly a bad O2 .. (but I don't believe it is the O2 because it runs soooo bad) any way I can determine if the sensors are bad? Oh yea ... has a mass airflow sensor as well .. but I do not think it is the problem either. Can a clogged EGR cause this ...don't think so

    Any suggestions ... please

    Bruce
  • blaze4x4blaze4x4 Posts: 29
    I know I'm being lazy, but can you tell me where the fuel filter is on my '01 4dr/4wd Blazer. Is it going to be under pressure?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Did you replace the fuel pressure regulator and nut kit (lines) under the upper intake. Thats a problem area and if you pull the upper cover you should see washed areas if they are the problem. Lots of info and pics when you do a full search online. Some auto stores also list the ways to test each sensor and a Chiltons will for $17. If you have codes read them out and they should be of some help. If you get stuck I'll list the sensor tests.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Underside of Blazer (almost beneath the drivers seat area) inside of the frame rail in a plastic bracket. Yes under pressure but if you just crack the input line a tad it shouln't be much coming out but it always drips on you no matter what. One end requires 2 wrenches and the other is a pinch the tabs together to release. You will usually have to take the bracket off (think 13mm) to get the filter out of it. Wear safety glasses!
  • morey000morey000 Posts: 384
    well, you're not alone. My 99 Blazer's fuel guage went out last year. I've been using the trip computer's estimate of fuel used- which is fairly accurate.

    But- now I'm ready to sell the car, so I may need to fix it. Mechanic says it will be close to $1K for the job. OUCH!- but on the flip side, my Blazer has been trouble free for nearly 7 years.
  • roossy90roossy90 Posts: 1
    My 2002 has recently started squeaking in the front end also.
    I just had new tires put on it and they are not the same as the rear.
    I have 235 75 15 on front and 235 70 15 on rear. I am buying 2 more new ones to match the front size. I was told that the 75 is for 4wd vehicles and the 70 is for 2wd.. Mine is a 2wd.. I wonder if I get the other 2 to match, will the squeak stop?
    I mean it is sounds like the other poster mentioned..bed springs.
    Thanks loads..
  • bchi1bchi1 Posts: 3
    I checked the fuel pressure and the regulator and they are steady at 55 PSI both running and stopped. I really think it is one of the sensors just trying to figure out which one. Any codes you can provide would be good. I do have a repair manual and they do mention several codes. If there is a way to test each sensor that would be great to know. I'm thinking about getting a computer tester from one of the chains and take a look ... worth doing or can I read codes from home. They mention jumpering certian pins? How do I tell what the code is if I do not get that tester??

    Thanks
    Bruce
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Doubt the tires have anything to do with the noise you are hearing - lower ball joints are the most common 4wd blazer problem so have the store check them and at least grease them. Actually, I believe all stock tires are the 70 series for both 2wd and 4wd but the 75 series fits fine and tire stores stock them more often! You get a slightly higher tire but narrower with the 75 series - look at some of the tire store sites and explains the whole thing. Biunce the Blazer and look underneath and pinpoint the area.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    I looked at the Haynes and the list of 2 digit codes is tooo long for me to type here so most auto stores have a free jumper for the A and B pins on the 12 pin test port and you have to watch the flashes - get the free handout on this at the store - sorry but you will need that Haynes for $17 if you work on this. Most stores can read the old OBD codes free too - know Autozone and Advance can.
  • eddie24eddie24 Posts: 2
    i have had the brakes and bearings checked..no problems found but i did not know about the cv axle and diff. i will get this checked and let you know..thanks
  • zaayzaay Posts: 6
    Thats what I have to use, but at times its not accurate because when you have to warm up your car in the winter, you use gas and warming up your car everyday will eventually use alot of gas. I can't even really use my ac in the summer becuase I don't know how much gas its going to use.
    I was told that it would cost about the same because the part cost about 500 dollars, but I know of a car shop where you pay 15 to enter and you pull the part yourself, so if I can find a cheap mechanic who will install it for cheap, I will began to look for a blazer in the shop. I can pay just 15 dollars for a 500 dollar part, thats lovely!
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    After I looked the specs up again and found a training article on GM CPI, operating is 54-64 with the key on engine running (KOER) so your pressure of 54 is good, but for the key on engine off (KOEO)the pressure MUST be a minimum of 60-66 to fire the injectors properly.
    A code 32 is an EGR fault above 32mph.
    Filter screen in the pressure regulator.
    MAP does determine fuel amount by ECM.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    These pumps are one of the main failure areas for the vehicle. See the fuel pressure info I put in the reply above and good luck on used.
  • bchi1bchi1 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info The fuel pressure (key on engine off) is 60 psi

    I have a 94 Jimmy that I am using for a test bed to check out all the sensors. One at a time I took the sensors from the 93 and put them on my truck (94) to see if I could find the bad component. Not a one of them had any affect (MAP, IAC, TPS, and the air sensor unit on the boot going to the intake manifold) I also got a computer and checked the truck and the computer said that there were no issues other than the O2 said that the vehicle is running rich. If you remove the IAC (idle air control)and just block the hole with your thumb the truck runs at a real fast idle (you are giving it more air to work with) and the O2 reading starts to go down from .9v towards .6v. I also swapped the computer from my truck abd it had no affect and even his computer in my truck had no affect.

    Is it possible that the CPI unit under the plenum has gone bad?? It is almost the only thing we have not swapped out with my truck. I also mentioned earlier that when we got the truck we replaced the lower intake gasket because it was leaking coolant on the front right corner. As expected ... there was alot of carbon on the passenger side port of the head that I believe the EGR uses. The driver side was clean but the passenger side was clogged and we chipped out the carbon before we replaced the intake gasket. Could the EGR circut be causing this issue?? I don't think so because it does not come in when the engine is cold? The computer recorded no EGR activity. Whe we got the truck it had a rough idle (no where near what it is now) and I chalked it up to needing a tuneup. After we replaced the intake gasket and plugs (the old ones looked fine), rotor, cap, did a compression test (130 in all cylinders) we started it up and it did the same thing with the rough idle but ran pretty good in driving situations. I then just assumed that the injectors needed cleaning so we put some injector cleaer in it and just drove it for a few days. After a few days is when this happened (after the kid stomped on it for a short bit in an attempt to "clean it out" because it was running rough) Stomping on it a bit should not break the thing ...
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    I looked back and you said too much fuel so I sure would look at that regulator and the lines (nut Kit) under the upper intake. Seen many same problems posted with fuel smells, rough idle, plugs wet or fouling due to this. How are the plug wires and then there is an ignition module in the distributer too. Most of my work is now on 2nd gen Blazers 98up as I own 4 and the OBD II codes help alot plus the newer injection.
  • Hello, first time trying this approach..seems like it could help..anyways. Came home from college to visit familly in off season my 1998 jimmy had been running fine but then sat for four months while i was away..It has 107,000 miles on it and only problem ever was alternator. I went to start it and it turns over fine and will start briefly(literally two seconds) and then sputter down..Shot starter fluid into throttle body and it will start and run briefly then(till fuel runs out. twenty seconds)..so i changed fuel filter plugs and dist cap, i can hear the fuel pump whirring as it pressurizes before startup and i removed filter and checked that it was indeed pumping gas on turnover..I have heard it could still be the fuel pump and its not running at the correct PSI..any ideas from those in here? could it be the computer or the injectors? Is there a way i can check the fuel pump pressure or fuel pump itself without removing gas tank or having the truck running? i have plenty to learn about this stuff and am willing to try so help me out if u can.. thanks all
  • zaayzaay Posts: 6
    What info?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Read post #2121 on the required pressures.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Rent or buy a fuel pressure tester or take it to a shop and have them do/or you do the 2 tests in post #2121. The test port is on the silver metal fuel rail in the engine compartment in the rear alittle to the drivers side with the cap on it.
  • thankyou i see where u are talking about ill give it a shot i appreciate it...
  • moz4evermoz4ever Posts: 2
    hello, i had problems with the fule pump to, but it took me a little time to figure it out, i check the ignition system, coil, control module,distributor, and at last i notice that it might be my fule pump again. It had been replaced 5 years ago and it happen to fail once more.

    After i replaced the pump, i noticed that my gauge light on. i check to see if i had oil, and to see if any cables were moved or disconected, but no luck.
    I guess i moved the distributor a bit too much and my timming got scwed up. I marked it dut its too hard working under suck tight skweeze
    I manage to set it back so it wont accelerate too much, but i can still fill the offbalance. i took it to some (greese monkey) and he told me i needed to disconect the check ingine wire so it could be timed with the timming gun, but he had a hard time finding it, so did I.

    if anyone could plesse help me!!! :shades:
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    This must be 96 or earlier cause the 97up have no adjustment, a 1 position insert and holddown.
    1. Read the codes out and clear the check engine light to make sure thats not causing a problem.
    2. Timing: With the engine OFF, disconnect the single tan colored wire from the dist to computer, connect the light to #1 plug wire, clean the timing marks on the harmonic balancer so you can see them, with everything clear of the fan start and set timing to specs on the underhood label. Then shut off, disconnect the light, reconnect the tan wire and test drive.

    So, are the plug wires connected correctly and are they good also - if still a problem (and you cleared all codes).
    The cap is tight and you did not crack it or the rotor?
  • danmac2ddanmac2d Posts: 1
    i have a 1998 chevy blazer and when i take off it sounds like a splashing in the engine i have no leaks form the heating coil
    any sugestions
  • moz4evermoz4ever Posts: 2
    hey, thanks
    i hope this dose it. i double check the cap and the rotor to see if every thing was correct and in place. and by the way, my truck is a 95. am planning on making a trip from california to tennessee. any one have some tips that might help. i dont want to get stranded. lol
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    The heater core is clogging up - another top 10 hit on the Blazer list of fun activities we all get to go thru!
    Have you flushed the radiator and changed the Dex Cool, thermostat and cap? Is the reservior always kept full? Could be air in the system, but usually too late. To resolve this noise and probable lack of a good heater, you have to flush the heater core and cooling system - GM has a long procedure or take it to a radiator shop. Or if you are so inclined DIY - let me warn you this often leads to a blown heater core cause they are so thinly constructed and possible water pump leaks as the Dex gets in the bearings (all the crap sediment) and the seals leak - sorry had to warn you. Ask if you need help.
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