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Your reply reminded me that I did have my heater core replaced about 7 or 8 months ago (after steam started coming through my air vents). It was after the heater core was replaced that I started hearing gurgling behind the dash and was told that it was normal, so I never did anything about it. The heater core being replaced didn't seem to have any affect on my consistently leaking coolant.
What I am still not sure of, is whether this on-going coolant problem had anything to do with my engine throwing a rod, and the oil level apparently being low. Is it normal for the oil level to be so low and sludgy after 4k miles since getting it changed? I am very worried that they will say it is my fault for not keeping up with maintenance, but I have been dilligent about it (despite being 1k past due this time). Or is it my fault? repairdog or anyone?
If it was a milky mix of Dex cool and oil that would throw a rod for sure as well as trash all engine internal bearings. That would be the contestable area if the dealer checked and never found where the coolant was going when you took it in.
Bottom line is you have to known specifically which condition occurred in the engine. Oh, that gurgling was definately not normal and the new heater core should have fixed that but if the coolant was still leaking then a low level would get air in the core and cause it and also may have overheated the engine, again the dealer should have found this if asked.
Just last night my steering started to bind at every turn. If it's a slight turn the binding is almost not noticeable. In a sharp turn (pulling in to a parking space) the truck almost stops. It feels almost like the tires are hitting the inside of the wheel well, but there are no rub marks in the wells or wear on the tire. I assume it's a problem with the suspension binding somewhere. Any idea where I should begin looking?
Otherwise could be ball joints or steering linkage based on mileage and how often it was greased. Hubs usually grate or grind. If 4wd cold be CV axles.
2) Driver side power window periodically will not work. Could this be an electrical problem or just a bad motor?
thx.
Do you have brake lights - all of them? If not there is another switch on the brake pedal that activates them when the pedal is pushed.
When the Blazer does NOT start, do you hear the fuel pump spin up when you try (if not sure turn key to RUN position before START and listen - can't miss that hum. A low pressure could be a clogged fuel filter so try that first. Then if the pressure is low (how low?) the start condition needs over 60 psi for the richer start mode so after the first try does it start the 2nd try? Check the pump relay under hood drivers side case.
Yes on the window - could be a motor or electrical. First push the up/down switch several times and see if dirty contacts. Then open/close door a few times to get a good ground on the pins/bushings. Then, pull the door panel (remove 2 bolts under the arm rest handle and 1 screw on opener plastic behind handle, then pull out - plastic push pins - then lift off the window lip). The whole switch panel on the door just snaps out (push to rear and leift out) and vcan be passed thru the panel as you remove it and set aside. Check that the door switch works with a volt meter at the motor plug in, if switch good tap the motor and see if it works, if not take a jumper wire from a good frame ground (bare metal) to the window motor mounting metal and see if it works (door pins/bushings may be rusted and not good ground). Otherwise put a new motor in.
The pump does run. Fuel pressure is about 51 psi. Probably just low enough to give intermitent start. I want to say it starts better in warmer weather. Fuel filter was pretty clogged, but we replaced it and still have the problem. Mechanic did not think the pump relay was a problem because the vehicle will start at times. Looks like replacing the pump is the best direction at this point.
Will a new fuel pump fix the jumping gas gage?
On the Window - I need to check through your list, but yeah the pin / bushings are worn badly. Good chance that is the problem.
Thanks for your help!
There are ABS sensors in the front hubs that have had a few problems and there is a bulletin out on "ABS activation at low speed (Clean wheel speed sensor mounting surface) for 95-03 Blazers #02-05-25-006 that I looked at - maybe your problem. Also there are vehicle speed sensors (VSS)on the transfer case for the rear wheels that can also go bad. Under vehicle rusting surfaces and wear are catching up with you, sorry - its age as well as mileage on these.
As for the pins/bushings, another known defect and many posts online on how to replace -parts are cheap but GM charges over $100 per door to do.
I have a 93 s15 jimmy (4.3 w/ CPI)that has had a problem with rough idle and now has gotten much worse. Barely stays running (stalls alot) and I want to know if the TPS (throttle position sensor) or MAP sensor (Manifold vaccumme sensor)is bad causing the computer to dump in more fuel than required. (check engine lite on as well ... no surprise) I got this for my kid and did a complete tune up on it with plugs/cap/rotor and intake manifold gaskets and it did not run too bad but it always had a rough idle. (I checked the compression and all cylinders are at 130)
He stomped down on it yesterday and did some hard acceleration and when he backed off then is when the real problems started .... real bad idle and barely stays running. I have a 94 S15 and it has been a good truck. I swapped out the computer and put it in the kids truck and ... no difference. If you pull the vaccumme hose off the power brakes the truck ups in speed (like there is too much fuel and when it gets more air it increases in speed .... burning the extra fuel). Catalytic converter gets real hot too (too much fuel going into it??) I read up on it some and decided that it could be the TPS or MAP sensors and possibly a bad O2 .. (but I don't believe it is the O2 because it runs soooo bad) any way I can determine if the sensors are bad? Oh yea ... has a mass airflow sensor as well .. but I do not think it is the problem either. Can a clogged EGR cause this ...don't think so
Any suggestions ... please
Bruce
But- now I'm ready to sell the car, so I may need to fix it. Mechanic says it will be close to $1K for the job. OUCH!- but on the flip side, my Blazer has been trouble free for nearly 7 years.
I just had new tires put on it and they are not the same as the rear.
I have 235 75 15 on front and 235 70 15 on rear. I am buying 2 more new ones to match the front size. I was told that the 75 is for 4wd vehicles and the 70 is for 2wd.. Mine is a 2wd.. I wonder if I get the other 2 to match, will the squeak stop?
I mean it is sounds like the other poster mentioned..bed springs.
Thanks loads..
Thanks
Bruce
I was told that it would cost about the same because the part cost about 500 dollars, but I know of a car shop where you pay 15 to enter and you pull the part yourself, so if I can find a cheap mechanic who will install it for cheap, I will began to look for a blazer in the shop. I can pay just 15 dollars for a 500 dollar part, thats lovely!
A code 32 is an EGR fault above 32mph.
Filter screen in the pressure regulator.
MAP does determine fuel amount by ECM.
I have a 94 Jimmy that I am using for a test bed to check out all the sensors. One at a time I took the sensors from the 93 and put them on my truck (94) to see if I could find the bad component. Not a one of them had any affect (MAP, IAC, TPS, and the air sensor unit on the boot going to the intake manifold) I also got a computer and checked the truck and the computer said that there were no issues other than the O2 said that the vehicle is running rich. If you remove the IAC (idle air control)and just block the hole with your thumb the truck runs at a real fast idle (you are giving it more air to work with) and the O2 reading starts to go down from .9v towards .6v. I also swapped the computer from my truck abd it had no affect and even his computer in my truck had no affect.
Is it possible that the CPI unit under the plenum has gone bad?? It is almost the only thing we have not swapped out with my truck. I also mentioned earlier that when we got the truck we replaced the lower intake gasket because it was leaking coolant on the front right corner. As expected ... there was alot of carbon on the passenger side port of the head that I believe the EGR uses. The driver side was clean but the passenger side was clogged and we chipped out the carbon before we replaced the intake gasket. Could the EGR circut be causing this issue?? I don't think so because it does not come in when the engine is cold? The computer recorded no EGR activity. Whe we got the truck it had a rough idle (no where near what it is now) and I chalked it up to needing a tuneup. After we replaced the intake gasket and plugs (the old ones looked fine), rotor, cap, did a compression test (130 in all cylinders) we started it up and it did the same thing with the rough idle but ran pretty good in driving situations. I then just assumed that the injectors needed cleaning so we put some injector cleaer in it and just drove it for a few days. After a few days is when this happened (after the kid stomped on it for a short bit in an attempt to "clean it out" because it was running rough) Stomping on it a bit should not break the thing ...
After i replaced the pump, i noticed that my gauge light on. i check to see if i had oil, and to see if any cables were moved or disconected, but no luck.
I guess i moved the distributor a bit too much and my timming got scwed up. I marked it dut its too hard working under suck tight skweeze
I manage to set it back so it wont accelerate too much, but i can still fill the offbalance. i took it to some (greese monkey) and he told me i needed to disconect the check ingine wire so it could be timed with the timming gun, but he had a hard time finding it, so did I.
if anyone could plesse help me!!! :shades:
1. Read the codes out and clear the check engine light to make sure thats not causing a problem.
2. Timing: With the engine OFF, disconnect the single tan colored wire from the dist to computer, connect the light to #1 plug wire, clean the timing marks on the harmonic balancer so you can see them, with everything clear of the fan start and set timing to specs on the underhood label. Then shut off, disconnect the light, reconnect the tan wire and test drive.
So, are the plug wires connected correctly and are they good also - if still a problem (and you cleared all codes).
The cap is tight and you did not crack it or the rotor?
any sugestions
i hope this dose it. i double check the cap and the rotor to see if every thing was correct and in place. and by the way, my truck is a 95. am planning on making a trip from california to tennessee. any one have some tips that might help. i dont want to get stranded. lol
Have you flushed the radiator and changed the Dex Cool, thermostat and cap? Is the reservior always kept full? Could be air in the system, but usually too late. To resolve this noise and probable lack of a good heater, you have to flush the heater core and cooling system - GM has a long procedure or take it to a radiator shop. Or if you are so inclined DIY - let me warn you this often leads to a blown heater core cause they are so thinly constructed and possible water pump leaks as the Dex gets in the bearings (all the crap sediment) and the seals leak - sorry had to warn you. Ask if you need help.