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Comments
God Bless,
Michael
tidester, host
"Rebuilding these engines is pretty straightforward. The blocks seldom crack, except some of the 10227196 castings, and the heads are usually good. The cranks are another story, though, with about 30 percent down on at least one rod journal, usually toward the front of the crank. Cam mortality can be a problem, too, with up to 20 percent of the roller cams needing replacement."
On the rear end I'd guess 3.42 but look in the glove box for the code:
GU4 = 3.08
GU6 = 3.42
GT4 = 3.73
GT5 = 4.10
G80 = positraction also
Thanks
Since my last posting, I've had to replace both front wheel bearing assemblies. Thanks to Repairdog offering some guidence, I was able to replace them myself at a cost of $115 each through Autozone. Autozone also provides the bearing puller *free of charge* with a deposit! My woes continue though as my other front seat recliner lever has broken off, my battery keeps going dead, the intermittant wiper settings intermittantly doesn't work and I still deal with the erratic fuel gauge! I recently had my charging system checked out and it concluded that my alternator is OK. I am going to troubleshoot the "possible" short that I may have which is killing my battery. Other than that, Life Is Good!! :lemon:
Thanks for the reply, it is appreciated. At least I know I am on the right track.
Momof7
Wipers: known circuit card problem - Call dealer and run your VIN may be covered - or remove the 3 torx screws holding the cover on the wiper motor drivers side in engine compartment, remove card, check for burned or broken solder tracks then fix or replace card, clean if old card, reinstall with some silicon to keep water out on seal, do not overtighten as card will bend and crack again, good to go (card $50 most stores).
Gauge: another wonderful GM piece is that integrated pump/sender and the new one has an enhanced (fixed) sender but have to drop the tank and the pump is $300 cost at Delco (best one to use)so look up your year at rockauto online and with the Delco # order it or call local auto store for their price on the Delco - they can order. Dealer about $450 plus $200-400 to install.
Battery: Added a stereo youself that is always on (the amp part)? If not are the interior lights shutting off. Check the battery cable to the connector UNDER the battery tray then it leads to the starter - see if broken insulation and short - also the starter connection is really tight (4wd really bad) so look up there - remember to disconnect the positive cable when you do this all!! If fact use an ohm meter on the positive disconnected cable end to the frame or neg and see if any reading showing a short - should be open or infinite.
Do you smell any gas or see/smell on oil dip stick - if so stop driving until fixed!
I pulled the info for you so heres how to check:
Leaking CPI regulator and hoses (called a nut kit) under the upper intake manifold. You can remove the IMTV (Intake Manifold Tuning Valve) from intake manifold. Once the IMTV unit is removed, visually inspect the inside of intake manifold. The manifold and injector unit should be very carboned up and dirty. Any clean areas indicate a fuel leak internal to the manifold plenum. Most times this is caused by the fuel pressure regulator leaking fuel from vent hole in the regulator body. Other factors may be present (such as a cracked inlet fuel line) but usually the regulator unit has failed. If no leak is detected through the IMTV hole, but a faulty unit is still suspected then you must pull the upper plenum to get a full view of the inside of the intake.
CPI was used until 96 when the newer spider type injection was introduced that has its own problems. Good luck.
Thanks again!
momof7
Fuel pressure for both types is supposed to be 60-64 psi with the key on engine off per the articles on GM injection. Perhaps taking the Blazer to the dealer for an analysis would be the cheapest way cause they should know in an hour ($60-80)and give a written estimate to fit.
As for the electrical issues, I will inspect the battery cables, put my multimeter on the cables and check for any connections from frame to positive and check for any unusual current draw.
Not for nothing, but this vehicle has made me a very unhappy GM owner and the thought of spending hundreds of dollars to repair/replaced a pump/sender unit which obviously contains poor workmanship and high failure rates is not going to happen! *I just need to vent.* :lemon:
Later
JM
Later.
kcole
tidester, host
I checked the fuse in the fuse box.
I put the radio to AM, and I can hear it click on and off.
I do not hear anything when I push the set button.
Don't know what to check next, or what to do.
Help
Thank's
John
I have a 1997 blazer 2 door 4x4. It has 125,000 miles on it and has been a very good vehicle. I was driving it down the highway and loud clicking noise started coming from the passeneger side front. It ssounding like a gear clicking, it was a very fast click. It started all at once with no warning. I had it towed home and drove it down the street and the noise would start as soon as I started moving and all the guages went out. I checked and the fuse for the guages blew, I replaced it and it blew again with in about 5 minutes. I checked the front drive shaft and it is in 4 wheel drive, you can not spin it by hand. I jacked the front up and put it on jackstands and had someone hold the front axle why I tried to spin the front tires and the front rear is locked in. I have not had this truck in 4x4 since January so I assume somehow it locked in 4 wheel drive on its own. I also noticed that the guages switch also works the 4x4 switch on the dash and that is the fuse that blows now. I don't know if the problem is in the front rear or the transfer case and I don't know if the blowing fuse has anything to do with the 4x4 system. Is there a computer somewhere for the 4x4 that could have engaged it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks