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Comments
As for the gauge the sender is part of the pump and has been redesigned so more robust (GM hopes it actually works for awhile that means) and is $300 Delco online and have to drop the tank - what fun.
As for the electrical they are always fun to locate but I would look at the battery cables and terminal and down on the starter too. Under the battey tray there is a positive junction block that can get corroded and the pos cable is an octopus looking thing so follow it - I had a 99 with a bad cable. Also check the negitive and make sure the ground to the motor block is good. Starter solenoid mounted on starter can fail intermittently so look there also - when it does not do anything (start) do all other electrical items work? Always possible its the ignition key/tumbler if looks of heavy things on the key ring. Has the battery and alternator been tested too - as one starts to fail and voltage wanders Blazers get confused and electrical items such as gauges start to swing around in value.
You are probably correct on the light switch and usually its the dome light dimmer section that fails and thats why GM put that override button on it. If fact, if thats staying on at night randomly that cause cause some of your problems so override it at night and see if problems stop.
This is located under the radiator (pump, electric solenoid, and vacuum shutoff valve) and tees off up to the exhaust manifolds thru 2 check valves on 4.3L. For 4wd remove the front skid plate to access. The secondary air injection pump is used to lower tail pipe emissions on start-up for about 1 minute. The PCM supplies a ground to the pump relay, which energizes the pump and the electric solenoid valve. Engine vacuum is applied to the shut-off valve when the solenoid is energized. The engine vacuum opens the shut-off valve that allows air to flow to the exhaust manifolds. Often the pump gets water/moisture in it and freezes up blowing the fuse and the check valves rust or freeze open internally and then burn thru the rubber hose. The fuse for the pump is behind the battery in the fender by the horn (remove battery to access and its under a plstic cover).
You have to fix the system or the SES light will always be on - the computer tests for this system running on startup via the oxygen sensors readings. After you replace the bad parts you need to extend the intake hose from the pump (it ends on pass side of radiator now halfway up) by adding a 3' piece of heater hose and end it in that fender hole by the battery and fuse so water does not get sucked in - done 2 of mine so far and OK now. GM has a bulletin on this and dealers are used to replacing these parts - but that pump is $200 list.
Thanks.
Also, I am selling this blazer, and would like to find a good price for it, 97 4x4 brown, cloth interior(brown) premium wheels - clean flawless in nearly every way except the following small problems -
^the problem listed above^
driver side door has a very slight ding in it, hardly noticeable.
driver side door lock doesn't lock with power locks, must be locked manually.
tread @ approximately 50%
some positive things about the car include
kept well & clean by mature & loving owner
Roof holder thing :P
tinted windows
1 month old alternator
and etc
from what I have seen the approximate price would be 4500 - 6,000$ am I wrong? edmunds says 4g private party, KBB says 5.5g private party, whats up with this
Check out the Sell Your Car link on the main Edmunds.com page if you're in the US.
Steve, Host
As for price that regional and what the local market is doing vs how fast you want to sell it - all online books are averages so good luck. Mileage is also important as well as what items you have maintained.
and temp doesn't change. All the fuses are good also. Is there any help for this?
Thanks
thanks
Grease all front end fittings and see if it goes away or lessens - any pulling or drift in steering or during braking is also a clue. Also if caliper slide colts are not free and greased they can bind and shift/pop. Have to jack it up and inspect so if you don't trust one shop get a second estimate from a front end alignment shop (sorry but some tire giants may be alittle quick to make work/$$).
Did I mention that I got his one used and the folks that had it previously put a battery in it that was bigger than the tray! I liked to never got it out and when I did I almost dropped it. Luckily it landed on the plastic shroud cover (yeah right). The corner of the battery punched a hole in it! CRAP!!! Oh well. I did notice with the battery out the tray had acid on it (cleaned it up with baking soda and some water) and there was some caustic damage to a cover for the hot lead from the battery to where ever it went. If you want I could send you a picture and let me know what you think. My wife seems to think it might be the ignition cylinder. Not sure. . . :confuse:
Wife could be right but unless she has a really haevy key chain full of junk doubt it. When this happens is the shifter in park for sure all the way cause these do have an adjustment on the trans and if off slightly won't start so next time it won't start with the key on (engine off) and your foot on the brake move the shifter to N and then back to P and see if that allows it to start.
1. Look at the water pump it has 2 holes in the bady that drip when the seal starts to go. Look at the small bypass hose on WP too.
2. Intake manifold gaskets all leak on the 4.3 motors by 100k so look above the water pump where the engine block and intake meet - any leaksge - usually when hot running and the reservior will slowly drop and often you hear the lifters tap on startup. Could also be leaking out the top area in the V between the intake and valve cover and then runs down - seen both before.
3. Radiator hose leaking.
4. Plastic tank cracked below that rad hose - just did a 98 with that. Cost is $150-200 for a new one then you install.
:confuse:
Thanks.
Leaking CPI regulator and hoses/fuel lines (called a nut kit by GM) under the upper intake manifold. You can remove the IMTV (Intake Manifold Tuning Valve) from intake manifold. Once the IMTV unit is removed, visually inspect the inside of intake manifold. The manifold and injector unit should be very carboned up and dirty. Any clean areas indicate a fuel leak internal to the manifold plenum. Most times this is caused by the fuel pressure regulator leaking fuel from vent hole in the regulator body. Other factors may be present (such as a cracked inlet fuel line) but usually the regulator unit has failed. If no leak is detected through the IMTV hole, but a faulty unit is still suspected then you must pull the upper plenum to get a full view of the inside of the intake.
CPI was used until 96 when the newer spider type injection was introduced that has its own problems. Good luck.
I was hoping that someone could shed some light as to diagnosing 4WD problems on my '98 Blazer LT.
Here's the problem:
When the 4Hi button is pressed, the light on the button flashes and I here clicking noises from the TCCM but don't here the encoder motor activating. All it does is go back to 2Hi, All the buttons light when I start the engine and the 2Hi light stays lit. I've tried changing when moving slowly, in Park and in Neutral.
I can get into 4Lo by being in Neutral, hear clicking from the TCCM and also hear the encoder motor shift, and the 4Lo light is on. So this seems to be normal.
If I try to shift from 4Lo to 4Hi, and again, the 4Hi light flashes but it shifts back to 2Hi.
Off hand, I would think that the TCCM and the encoder motor are fine, but can anyone point me in another direction as to why it does'nt like 4Hi
Thanks in advance for any help.
I tried pulling the fuse fuse for the 4WD rather than disconnect the battery. Did'nt work so I will try the battery disconnect next. What it did do though, is when I engaged 4Lo and then pressed 4Hi, both lights stayed on and when I moved the truck, I was'nt getting any tire chirping that you would get on dry pavement in 4Lo. I did'nt want to drive at any kind of speed thinking I'm in 4Hi in case 4Lo engaged.
But on a good note, I can hear the axle coupler that repairdog mentioned activating on the passenger side as well as the encoder motor shifting. That would indicate that mechanically, every thing seems to be O.K. (I think). Then again, the TCCM might not be sending all the signals it should be.
Thanks again for the help :confuse:
If it's not turning, sometimes you can free it by gently moving the steering wheel a few degrees left or right.
Steve, Host