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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • blaze4x4blaze4x4 Posts: 29
    Sorry for the delayed response, repairdog. I have already replaced the intake gaskets (about two months ago). Pressure checked the radiator and it was the problem. I replaced it yesterday along with both hoses (did the fan belt while I was at it too). Now my question is how do I remove all the air from the system? Just raise the front of the vehicle and top off the radiator? I'm now getting the same sound in the heater core that I had before replacing the intake gaskets.

    Thanks!
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Had the same problem on 2 of mine and its the dex cool crap in the heater core so I bought 3 foot sections of 5/8" and 3/4" heater hose, removed the ones at the firewall and tied them up so no dex cool lost, then simply slide the 2 sections on the heater core and flushed with a hose (held hose on end with my hand so not to over pressurize the core and blow it). Seems like not so much an air issue as that heater core getting partial clogs - after this have had no problems with the gurggling or water rushing noises.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Possible completely dead battery so no power at all, totally dead. Replace it, charge it if it accepts any, or try jumper cables to see if power frees up the key (foot on brake pedal).
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Correct on the vac hoses. Off the PCV on the intake is the vac feed that goes to a T on the drivers side feeding the reservior cannister in the fender and that hose section often rots out (tight but with alittle effort easily replaced) and then feeds to the front axle actuator. Small is 5/32" and larger 7/32" vac hose.
  • mcgeriscmcgerisc Posts: 3
    I have a 95 blazer S-10 4x4 with a 4.3 vortec. Recently the service engine light came on and it is having trouble idleing. It is almost as the engine wants to stall but it doesn't. I have searched this forum and seen some possible solutions but no exact matches to my issue. I also had a 94 blazer that did the same thing, but it would usually was not an issue if I let it sit for a bit or turned the car off and then on again. I don't see any smoke coming out of the tail pipe but when you are driving it, it will start to smell strange. Sometimes it has trouble starting and you have to give it a little gas. I have seen similar posts that suggest replacing the fuel pressure regulator and then changing the oil. Could this be my best course of action? Why or how does this part go bad? Any help is appreciated!
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Need to check the fuel pressure and then search on CPI and see all the info on the leaking pressure reg and lines (nut kiy) inside the intake. Also depends on any codes that show. EGR had carbon builup also so look that up too.
  • mcgeriscmcgerisc Posts: 3
    Thanks, I actually took the EGR valve off and found it severely clogged with Carbon. I cleaned it out and added a gasket to help keep the carbon out of it. So far so good. I guess I will see how it goes driving in the heat of tomorrow. It is not idleing rough anymore. Hopefully that was it.
  • ok my truck is havin problems startin. it keeps fryin the ignition coil. i was told it was something electrical but i dont know what. now it just happened out of the blue when i was makin a u-turn. any suggestions on what can be wrong
    ?
  • hybridprhybridpr Posts: 3
    a few months ago the power door locks just stopped working. also the keyless entry no longer works when i disarm the car alarm. when i press the lock or unlock button on the door, i hear a clicking coming from inside the glovebox from the relays. could that be where my problem is? whats the fix for this?

    thanks,
    joel
  • guestguest Posts: 770
    You need to know which type motor W or X and if TBI or CPI but there is an ignition control module in the distributor that controls the voltage to the coil and if it is failing will not completely shut down so always a low voltage to the coil and it heats up and fails. A long procedure on testing the whole system in Haynes and Chiltons. Module is about $35 at most stores. Newer models have the module outside the dist.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    99up came with factory alarms so yours was added - that may be where the problem is. There is a circuit breaker and relay and I believe that the relay is located behind the glove box with the flasher and blinker relays but not positive on a 96 - check the owners manual and it shows location. Others are under the hood in the fuse box.
  • hybridprhybridpr Posts: 3
    yes we did add the alarm, but that was at least 7 or 8 years ago but the locks have functioned fine with the alarm up until a month or so ago..

    thanks again
    joel
  • 95blaze95blaze Posts: 2
    I own a 1995 chevy blazer, the car has about 193,000 miles on it and i have a problem where the gauge fuse pops almost everytime i turn on the car. with this happening it doesnt turn on the alternater and the car stalls. what is the problem? and wat can i do to fix this from happening agian?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Get the alternator tested and the battery - free at most stores. If this has the electronic/digital dash they have had many problems and there are online places that sell rebuilts that correct the shorting.
  • 95blaze95blaze Posts: 2
    i have a brand new alternator and a brand new battery the alternator works its just that the fuse that keeps poping turns the alternator on. as for my dashboard its the normal dash its not digital. any ideas?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Do the door switches (for the light) work OK cause many alarms use that to activate and some lock systems also won't lock if think the door is open. Master lock switch in the door could be bad also or the wiring could have a short - look at the bundle in the rubber sleeve where you open the door - it justs has a lip and pops out.
  • tthomsontthomson Posts: 3
    It sounds like the axle is trying to engage in the front and when I come to a stop I hear and feel a clunk and then its gone. It happens in 2wd from out of nowwhere. Could it be a vac line problem in the 4wd actuator. I thought the vac issue kept them from engaging when you tried to put them in 4wd. I guess what I'm asking is it possible for it to try and randomly engage on its own and if so what is the remedy?

    Thanks
  • jpmccrjpmccr Posts: 31
    Sorry for the delay. . .work is a pain. Anyway it happened again yesterday on the way home and this morning. I popped the hood and my little underhood light was still out. So I grabbed the hot lead at the point of corrosion and moved it about just a bit (flexed it one way or the other). Lo and behold my little light pops on and it wants to start. Sounds like it tried to flood itself but once running, runs like a champ. I also think the vibration of the road makes it run a tad rough but I think it is trying to short itself out. I would love to try to replace it myself but I am 6'2" and have big hands. Plus I really can't see anything because it disappears down under. Anyway what it could a good price for such a repair lilke this?
  • darrellwvdarrellwv Posts: 18
    About 4 days ago my Blazer started leaking antifreeze so i changed the water pump,but it still leaks..It's leaking out as fast as i pour it in.It seems to be coming from up high behind the air conditionig compressor..Anyone have any Ideas where it is coming from???
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    The problem could be a leaking intake manifold gasket. If this is the problem, then you need to get it fixed ASAP because the coolant could be mixing with your oil. This problem is typical with GM's 4.3 V6.
  • i have 1998 chevy blazer,how can i get the check engine light to go out without fixing anything?
  • darrellwvdarrellwv Posts: 18
    If its the intake gasket could you still have an external leak ?
  • darrellwvdarrellwv Posts: 18
    The Cheverlet dealer in my area told me to turn the ignition on dont start .And pump the the gas 3 times all the way to the floor..I have a 96 Blazer having the same issue.He also said that was the code for 2000 and up, wasnt sure about later models.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Auto stores will read the code, then try to sell you the part to fix it (optional), then have them clear the code. Its free and alot of them are sensor related so post the code so we can give you the fix - if you need help.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Never heard that one on an S-10 Blazer - maybe a newer 02up Trailblazer model.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Lower intake leaks are very common by 100k miles and can leak out the front between the intake and engine block and the drivers side is right behind the AC so start her up and watch for a leak after it warms up. Also common is the area between the valve cover and intake and then it runs off depending on parking angle. Get the free loaner radiator pressure tester at the local auto store and pump up the system and look for the leak.
  • darrellwvdarrellwv Posts: 18
    It didnt work on mine eather,But he did say he wasnt sure.Come to find out it was my fuel cap was defective apparently the tank has to hold a certain amout of pressure..
  • darrellwvdarrellwv Posts: 18
    You dont have to start it . It leaks when cold just pouring it in.Runs out as fast as i can fill it.You can also hear like air suction when filling the radiator.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Look above the transfer case for a vac switch unit (97 earlier had them) - could be bad or lines rotted. Seen many posts on this and the front coupler engaging partially so search online.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    If it is that lower intake leaking do not drive it or you will blow the engine most probably at that extreme loose. Could also be going into the valley under the intake or if overheating could take a head gaskey out. Costs approx $500-600 at shop to fix due to over 5 hours labor and the parts - done 2 so far and with prep and cleanup and fixing other moinor things along the way both took me 9 hours. If you do not really have the knowledge get it done by a shop.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Did you follow the new instructions on the alternator install cause they are polarized now and the sequence of connecting the terminals on the alternator is critical or you can reverse polarize it - have the store run the free test and see - or could have a bad IC in the new one - happens.
  • flryiteflryite Posts: 2
    covah23,

    did you ever find a solution to your strange noise? I am experiencing the same thing (99 Blazer 4x4), exactly as you described. Thought it was tire noise, bought new tires, noise is still there. Wondered if you ever sussed out the problem.

    When driving faster than 40 mph, the slightest turn of the wheel; and I get what sound like tire noise, or tire rubbing. The noise is loudest on the freeway when changing lanes. For me, the sound occurs in the right front tire when turning LEFT. I do not hear the sound when going slower than about 40 mph.

    Anyone else have any ideas?
  • darrellwvdarrellwv Posts: 18
    The funny thing is it dosent overheat,its staying normal at about 200 degrees..That why I dont understand loosing so much coolent why isn't it overheating?And it's not pulling any out of my reserve tank.
  • darrellwvdarrellwv Posts: 18
    I also have a 98 blazer that the wipers seem to work when they want to not when you need them. They will go for 2 weeks not work at all then all sudden they start working for a couple days then it starts all over again . Anyone else had this problem?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Common one - the circuit card in the wiper motor often has cracked or burnt paths on it and as it flexes it works or not. Card is under the wiper motor cover (3 torx screws) and is availble at dealer or many auto stores - you only need the card not the whole motor. Sometimes by pulling it out and cleaning the card and reinstalling and not over tightening the screws it works OK again - grease gets all over it. Seal the edges with silicon to keep water out. $50 part.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    98up have 1 piece sealed hubs and when the bearings start to go thats the classic noise - turn left and the right gets the load on it. To be sure jack the wheel up and spin it and if the hub grates or grinds replace it. For your 4wd jack up under the lower control arm so the CV axle isn't extended or hanging down - wheel doesn't turn too well if CV is in the full flexed position. Rebuilt axle is about $75 for the entire assembly - part only.
  • auto9999auto9999 Posts: 86
    I have a 2000 Blazer, Trailblazer trim, 4 door, 4WD, 55,000 original miles. Its ABS began to activate too sensitive in the last few months. When the vehicle gently slows down, at the last moment right before it comes to a full stop, ABS kicks in. The road is dry, and the vehicle did not have ABS activated until a few months ago in the similar conditions. ABS does not get engaged when the brake is applied while the vehicle is moving. It occurs perhaps a few times a day, but not always. What is the problem?
  • blaze4x4blaze4x4 Posts: 29
    (2001 blazer 101,500 miles)I've started feeling a harmonic type vibration that cycles during speeds of 55 and up. This morning after I reached the parking lot at work, with the window down while parking, I heard a squeaking noise as well. Sound like U-joints? I've looked at them before and they're not greaseable. Wheels and tires new and balanced. The vibration isn't felt in the steering wheel, but in the seat of my pritches.
  • jmaysjmays Posts: 2
    Ok here we go I got a humming noise coming from the front end while going done the road. no bangs or pops and is fine when turning. I got new tire now because i thought it was the old ones making the noise.also new shocks brakes and rotors and calibers. I check the cv joints they got aliitle play in them. I drove the car in circles no popping or clicking. this is driving me nuts I even engaged the 4 wd drive a few time and no difference.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    4wd so check the front diff and see if its full 80w90 gear oil. Could also be transfer case so check that. Then theres the 1 piece hubs but have to jack it up and feel the grate/grind in them.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Could be u-joints and if you change them get the drive shaft balanced (good machine shops do it) and for 2 joints and bal a total of under $100 - you pull and install the shaft. Also I had my 01 drive me crazy and it turned out to be out of round rear disc/drum assemblies - the disc was good but the drum portion for the parking brake was oval so at 60mph up actually bounced/hopped alittle - can see if you put on jack stands and watch the drum part rotate - about $35 each so cheap to change.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Get the system checked but you need an ABS reader so sorry but the dealer is the best one for this.
  • wgochwgoch Posts: 4
    A belated thank you for the assistance. You were right; that switch was the problem. Wasn't too difficult but, if I could have gotten my hands on the engineer who designed the steering column covers, I would have probably worked him over with a tire iron. Clearly, repair and maintenance were not design considerations (and who in their right mind would use reverse torx head screws to attach anything?) If anyone else has to tackle this problem and cannot find a small reverse torx driver to fit the two switch attachment screws just deform the end of a 1/4" drive 4mm socket to make an acceptable substitute.

    Thanks again, repairdog
  • jmaysjmays Posts: 2
    I did notice when I go around a curve to the right to noise stops. Or if i turn fast to the right while going straight it quits. So I guess it be the passenger side hub bearing that is bad then. What do you think :sick:
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Turning right puts the left or drivers side under load so that may be the bad one - again jack the front up under the lower control arm and see if it grates/grinds - check both sides and you can feel and hear a bad one.
  • wolfym1wolfym1 Posts: 1
    Hi:
    You mentioned that GM has a SB on the secondary air injection system. we have just spent $650 at the Chevy dealer trying to get our 2001 Blazer with 50k miles to pass NYS inspection. This has been going on since June and still no inspection sticker. The dealer says we have to drive it to get things to clear...they also said if it doesn't clear, you might as well park it. Do you have any other info that might help us in resolving this problem with the emission system on our vehicle?
    Thanks.
  • darrellwvdarrellwv Posts: 18
    Thanks repairdog it was the intake gasket, just got it back today .Not to expensive $356.00....
  • darrellwvdarrellwv Posts: 18
    The only thing is I just went and checked and they didn't put Dexcool back in it, they used green coolent will this affect it??
  • robyn101robyn101 Posts: 3
    I've tried all suggestions to date; I've tried to shift into 2hi while in park, in neutral, with foot on brake, while backing up. I also disconnected the battery for 30 min. after which the 2hi light blinked continuously but still didn't go in to 2hi. Before disconnecting battery 2hi light only blinked once everytime 2hi button pushed. It has reverted back to blinking once when pushing 2hi button. I don't know if there is any connection, but when I shut off the ignition there is a high pitched whistle. Please any suggestions welcome.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Should not if the system was totally flushed of orange Dex cool - many have switched over due to the problems with it and if air gets in the system it makes a mess in the rad and heater core. I still run the Dex due to chemical reactions in the aluminum radiator but most articles say no problem with green - if you switch back to Dex now a total flush of the whole system to get all green out is required or the Dex will not work chemically (correctly).
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