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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair



  • Were you able to get the problem resolved? I had the same noise. I changed the front passenger side hub. I still have the noise, it is not as bad as before. Now I notice that it completely goes away when I turn my wheel left. Does anyone know if I need to change the other side also or if there could be another resolution besides the hub?
  • Those clip ins are for the pads to slide on and are not the ones that are mounted on the backs of the pads to stop the squeak - if you had plain pad backs and no thin metal attached shims then you need to add on the aftermarket spray or tube stuff or they will make noise. Extremely dry climates make them worse usually.
  • I'd like to replace my 2001 Blazer's front discs and pads. Any recommendations on a good brand that are reasonably prices?

    I apologize in advance if there are existing threads discussing this.. I didn't find any right away.
  • I used whatever NAPA sells for rotors and ceramic pads on my '01. I chose ceramic to help eliminate brake dust and that has worked out great (don't use brake cleaner on ceramic pads!). They had three choices for rotors... I believe I chose middle of the road. Total cost here in Michigan was ~$200 front and rear... that's with me installing (real easy job). I'm sure it can be done cheaper, but I've always had good luck with their quality.
  • NAPA is good and so are most major auto stores - all rotors are foreign made now I believe at about $35 each. Ceramics are clean and don't fade as fast but do not stop as fast when cold (but others do have lots of dust) so up to you. Don't buy the cheapest go for top or mid as they have anti squeal shims. Rears I always install rebuilt calipers as they usually grab/bind after being pushed back in - not a must but a lesson learned. Grease all slide pins pulling the rears out of the brackets. Buy an 18mm box end wrench before you start - not a common set size and its needed. Also a 3 lb dead blow hammer is a big help on these to help the rotors if rusted as most are and also with most Blazer repairs!!
  • Last night during a down pour, I put my '01 in auto 4x4, because the rear wheels would spin as I pulled out into traffic. Seem to go into 4wd alright, but immediatly began to clunk in cycles (repairdog, ya think this could be the harmonic cycling vibration I've been experiencing in 2wd?). I then went back to 2wd, but had to slip the transmission in neutral to get it to take. Closer to home, I put it in 4HI to see what was going on and got a growling sound. Any ideas? You need to know that I have had a BDS 5" suspension kit installed, which keeps all components and geometry in factory specifications. Also have installed 265/75/16 tires.
  • Need to see if that pass side axle coupler is fully engaging. When you select any 4wd setting vacuum is applied to the line down to the actuator under the battery tray and that pulls a cable to the front axle. Partial engagemant could cause this or a ripped diaphram in the actuator, or a rotten/broken vac line. Maybe the lift has partially pulled the cable? First trace the vac line from the intake over to the reservior drivers side then over to the firewall mounted solenoid (99up have this)and see if the lines are good. Then with the engine running for vac and 2wd selected see that the output side of that vac solenoid has NO vac, then push any 4wd mode and vac should be applied to it that goes down to the actuator. If you have vac the coupler should engage - then pull the vac line and see if it disengages - you will hear it.
    Down on the transfer case is the encoder motor for 4Lo gear engagement while trans is in N only. Both the transfer and axle have a sensor that tells the TCCM (computer) what position they are in. Hope that helps.
  • It wouldn't be totally out of the question that the vacuum lines weren't reconnected correctly. I do remember reading something about the actuator in the directions of the lift kit, even though I had it installed by a local shop... I went on line and was able to obtain the installation instructions. I'll pull out the directions and print your info and compare their connections. Thanks for the direction... I'll let you know what I find.
  • Repairdog, is the cable from the actuator adjustable?
  • I had my Blazer's (2000 trailblazer trim, 57000 miles, 4 door 4WD, still under extended warranty) heater core and intake manifold gasket replaced around May this year. I told the dealer that the gurgling noise was still being heard after those repairs and that the dexcool in the reservoir was slowly getting lower, but the dealer said that it was normal. Finally, the dexcool started to smell in the cabin two days ago, and today, dexcool began to spill like a waterfall from under the heater core. I immediately left the vehicle at the dealer again. Now they should be able to pinpoint exactly where the coolant is leaking by taking a look at the spill. I hope that this will end my coolant woes (at least for this time.)
  • Coolant should NOT drop more than what, 1/8" or so it at all over a month or so as the cycling of the coolamt in and out of the reservior to the radiator has a minimal evaporation. So, gurgling was a clogged heater core - sure they really change it the first time cause its pull the whole dash out and $600 job - maybe they lied - did I say that - and flushed it to get it going and save money. The core is just a small radiator that the blower blows air thru to heat the air. See the 2 heater hose on the firewall underhood - 1 in, 1 out. Insist they clean or wipe down the heater box that houses the core cause that Dex cool is sticky and will smell for months and if you got that puff of steam in the vents at anytime due to this the ducts may smell for awhile too. Make sure the repairs are documented in writing.
  • Thank you, repairdog, for your kind comments.
  • Where is the fuel fiter and pcv valve located. I am having trouble starting the car. It usually starts on second crank or more, but never first. Not sure if it is fuel pump, but want to start by elimination.

  • Fuel filter is under the inside of the frame rail about under the drivers seat. One end is quick release other takes 2 wrenches. You will need to remove the 1 bolt holding the bracket on usually to get the filter out and the 3 lines on top of teh bracket just snap out (hard) and you will get gas on you. Then, tuneup is next with a cap/rotor, plugs, and wires if original. Have to use a fuel pressure tester to see if pump and I've posted the info on that many times.
  • Got the bolt off, got the quick release, is there a trick to the 2 that need wrenches? Is it a typical counterclockwise to loosen or opposite?



    BTW, where is the fuel pressure tester valve?
  • I think I got the right sizes, 5/8 on the smaller size and 13/16 on the other.
  • Make sure you do not destroy the small nut on the line side - that one slides on the pipe and comes on it. If it won't turn spray some rust remover for a few days on it and go buy a brake line or tubing wrench that has a third side on it to grab the nut. Under the hood at the rear side of the engine see the 2 metal fuel lines and in the middle of one is a cap and a schreader valve - Actron has a tester runs under $40 at most stores.
  • Blower works properly but no hot air. I changed the thermostat and still no hot air. Any and all suggestions appreciated. Winter is coming on and I will need heat.

  • See post #2493 on flushing the heater core. In fact, if you have never done it the entire cooling suystem needs to be flushed and Dex cool replaced and a new Stant cap 16 lb.
    Only other possible is the heater door is not moving - do you have Climate Control (actual temps on controls) - that could be an electric blend door - first is the heater core and system flush - Dex cool every 3 years - 5/100 GM ad is BS and if the system gets ant air in it that Dex turns to sludge. Reservior should be to Hot full when cold.
  • Where are the o2 located on a 96 jimmy? Thanks!
  • In exhaust pipes underneath the Blazer. Bank 1 is drivers side with 1, and bank 2 pass side with 1 in front and 1 in back of the cat. Unless you pull the code I would not change them - up to you but $55 each and they say they help mileage but only if bad usually.
  • I have a problem with my 4x4
    the 4x4 stopped working instantly it is completely dead, no more lights for 4x4(2hi,4hi,4lo) everything is dead, I have checked the 20 amp fuse for the 4x4 and it is good. Any idea what the problem can be? or if you can guide me to previous post, I have checked all the post for an hour and I can't find anything similar.
    Thank you
  • All mine are 98up and there is a "4wd" fuse inside mine by drivers door #15 and another underhood called "ATC" for the transfer case. Look at those then you may have to pull the switch and probe for voltage there to see if it failed. Then theres the TCCM or computer for the system mine is in pass side kick panel (96 maybe behind there or center of console behind ashtray. Best I can do on this - sure sounds like a fuse or switch. Has your dash been taken out cause they have to disconnect the switch when they pull that for the heater core.
  • I have had my 1998 Jimmy for 5 weeks. I have been having some severe problems for the last week with getting it to move from a stopped position. At times it takes off normally but at other times it feels like you're pushing your foot on a cinderblock instead of a gas pedal. When this happens the engine "revs" but the wheels don't move at all. It doesn't do it all of the time, just 50% so far. I thought it was the transmission, but today has made me think otherwise. Since the day after I bought it I have had problems with it dying when I slow down or stop but only when it has around a quarter of a tank of gas in it. After driving it today I had it running in park for a minute while I closed the gate at the end of our driveway. While in park and no feet on any pedals the engine suddenly revved as hard as it could and the needle in my rpm's gauge shot up to 6 (which is in the red/orange). It stayed like this for a few seconds then went to normal and then the engine just died. But after it died I started it right back up again with no problem. Any ideas?
  • Have you read the SES codes out - must be one. Autozone and Advance/Discount read for free. Sounds like a throttle position sensor (TPS) with the surging but could be a PCM (computer) problem. Fuel pressure should be checked after that. Plugged cat usually makes them bog. Most other sensors will cause no run or rough running but not surging. Also if around 100k miles does it have a new Delco (don't buy cheapo one) cap and rotor, plugs, and wires? If no code I suggest a dealer visit - $80 or so for an hour to analyze and saves you from throwing parts at it.
  • Thanks, Anyone knows where to find the tccm on a Blazer 96,
    I checked under the passenger side kick panel but it is not there. Is there a fuse on the tccm?
    Thanks AJ
  • Thank you for answering, after reading your reply this morning I called and made an appointment for tomorrow to have it put on the computer at a local garage to read the SES codes. My service engine light soon has been on since a few days after I got it so I had the codes done once but the woman working at Autozone was so vague about the two it came up with (she was new at the time and had no idea what the codes meant). As far as I know there hasn't been a change in the Delco cap or plugs and wires yet but I will have them check them tomorrow. In the 5 weeks that I've owned it I have had to replace both front wheel bearings, two tires, a new radiator cap (the coolant reserve cap is next, it was missing when I bought it), and I had to have the ABS unhooked because the pump went bad and caused me to have no breaks. I also had to have it to the shop because the previous owner only put 1 and 1/2 quarts of oil in it so the oil pressure kept dropping on me...thankfully it was only in need of a new oil change and nothing worse...I hope. I will let you know how it goes, wish me luck, I'm probably going to need it :(
  • I had the Jimmy put on the computer today and they told me that the O2 sensor in Bank #1 is bad and the 3-2 shift solenoid in the transmission is bad. It's a little expensive but not as bad as if I had to have a whole new transmission. Thank you for all your help, it's very much appreciated :).
  • I'm glad to help-I have 4 Blazers and kids so see many problems. Often hard to determine the cause without a scan tool that runs a min of $400 so the dealer is a good option today - many smaller shops do not have the experience to quickly find Blazer problems. Its still cheaper than a new vehicle! The solenoid also gives you a trans filter and 3 qts of new fluid so thats good.
  • That's good to hear about the filter and the fluid, after all of the money I have sunk into the car I'm about to lose my mind :blush: I have ordered the solenoid and picked up the O2 sensor and it goes to the shop on Friday. Hopefully this will fix it and I will be able to relax a little bit. Thanks again!! :)
  • 2001 Chevy Blazer 4WD with 88600 miles: how often should the shocks be replaced? I bought it used almost 2 years ago and have not put shocks on it. There were about 56K on it then. I am assuming the ones on it now are the originals.

    I don't do any off roading with it but the roads here in NJ are pretty miserable in places. Thanks.
  • My driver door only locks on its own after 20 minutes. All the locks on the vehicle are unresponsive to the FOB and also to the power locks buttons on the doors. If i pull the fuse marked "lks" the driver door unlocks. When i put the fuse back in the driver door locks. It only locks on its own after sitting for 20 minutes. Any ideas??? :confuse:
  • I wanted to update ya. I took it in to have the O2 sensor and the selonoid replaced. The O2 sensor is now perfect but, unfortunately, the selonoid didn't help. I think the shop did something wrong though because it's three times worse now then it was before I had the new parts put on. I can't drive it at all now. But, on the upside, I found a used transmission that's in great condition for a really good price and will hopefully have it in by the beginning of next week.
  • Originals are Bilstins and gas pressurized and usually last 100-150k min range. Got 4 Blazers and all in the 125-160k range with originals. If you see no leaks, bounce each corner and see if the shock stops the rebound in 2 -3 bounces then good, but if it keeps bouncing its bad. Also ride quality goes down as the shocks wear but Blazers always ride somewhat rough - its the design. Many change shocks to help and some see improvement many don't. Reflex and senatrac reports from many are good. Tire type and pressure are biggest ride impact and I actually went back to Laredos as the ride was better.
  • If it was a trans shop take it back and tell to fix it right or refund your money - no excuse for that - but if just a local shop and they read the code and it didn't help go to a trans shop for an evaluation of the trans (usually free) before you replace it - could save you lots.
  • 98down did not come with a factory remote (99up did)so it must be aftermarket and that system must have a connection/wiring problem so hard to help you - if local shop installed have them fix it. Have 2 98s with aftermarket and Circuit City put them in and had to fix one.
  • Got ya, I will call AAMCO Transmissions in the morning and set up an appointment for them to do a diagnostic and put it on their computer. It was a local shop that put the parts on but they want me to bring it back tomorrow since it's worse and they're going to "try to right their wrong" if it was a mistake they made. I guess I'll find out tomorrow...hopefully :sick:
  • Was wondering, I figured that my Heater core went bad when I had the puff of steam coming from the vents. I was afraid it would start leaking into the car so I unplugged the hose from the core. Can I remove and install the heater core myself (Don't have $600+) or is there something else I can do to it. I have flushed it before and it still had the puff of steam which really stinks. it a 1999 Chevy Blazer 4.3L. Thanks
  • Sorry, once that happens the core blew a pinhole and will do so again probably each time it heats up. Have to pull the dash completely out to get to the heater box so takes 6 hours. I had the dealer do mine cause I don't bent in those ways anymore. You can bypass the core and all stores sell a 5/8 to 3/4" adaptor to do it but no heat then. Stop leak only makes the whole system worse over time. Love that Dex cool smell - like burned maple syrup barf! So far both my 98s and my 99 blew theirs around 90-100k miles. Waiting for my 01 next!
  • Hey. My "recently traded for" '99 blazer had NO heat when I checked it for the upcoming heater season.
    Luckly,I flushed out the "crud" from the heater core with only slight pressure from a water hose and the heater with climate control does a good job :-)

    Now, from a TIP I was given long ago by a friend that owned a radiator shop. I have added a cup of laundry detergent and
    refilled the system and drive it normally for a coupla weeks.I plan to drain and do a good "hose and thermostat removed" flush soon.

    Here's the "THING" ...... I'm not familiar with DEXCOOL and
    I'm reading some bad things about it. So .....
    I plan to replace Dexcool with 50/50 Zerex and water.

    Question :
    Is there really anything wrong with this ??

    Much obliged

  • If you flush it before the crud clogs the core totally up and do not get air in the system you usually are OK. Dex cools major problem is if air gets in the system from the stupid 5/100 warranty BS - no one watches the coolant res so it drops and air sucks in and presto - big mess. The GM cap was and may still be junk too so buy a Stant cap for the radiator to allow movemant between rad and res.
    As for the detergent - not something I'd ever do - these aluminum radiators are PH sensative. As for the old green you can convert after a flush the articles all state. Both types need a min 3 year replacement cycle!
  • You are not going to believe this! I just left the shop that's fixing the transmission on the Jimmy, you will never believe what the problem is!! The idiot who owned it before me super-glued everything that goes to the transmission to the transmission! All of the wire plugs, parts, everything! Because of it my neutral shift selonoid went out and another piece that goes to the trasmission (not sure what it's called but the Jimmy won't start without it) had to be broken to be removed so I had to have it replaced with the transmission. Super glue! I'm in shock, literally!

    Heater is still OK. So I'll get the detergent all flushed out and refill with 50/50 zerex and H2O :-)
    Hopefully the new zerex will neturalize any PH left from detergent !! We'll see !!

  • benschbensch Posts: 1
    I have a similar problem with my '97 GMC Jimmy. When I turn the heater on to either of the defrost settings the air conditioner kicks in and runs until I change the heater setting. The air conditioner seems to run fine on the A/C settings?
  • I believe the A/C compressor is suppose to cycle during defrost mode. It helps keep the seal lubricated during the season that it is not used (winter). It shouldn't be blowing cold air.
  • Im having the exact same problem on my 97 chevy blazer,
    did you ever figure out what the problem is?
  • Can anyone recommend a good and reliable mechanic in Jacksonville FL? I need someone to check my vacuum lines and actuator on the 4WD. I'm female and so this isn't something I can do easily. I can change plugs and the basics, but I have never tried testing vacuum etc.
  • jimavejimave Posts: 4
    This vehicle has been real bad over the last couple of years. It dropped the rear end in Savannah, had to have it fixed at a country garage, they stuck a different ratio rear in. Next Trans case cracked, had to replace with a junk yard unit, Had to have it rebuilt later and put a used engine in about that time. Presently, the TBI, EGR, have been replaced with new, It's had a complete tune up, new radiator(Oh, yeh the auto trans and radiator fluid mixed 1.5 years after trans rebuilt), after all the parts swaps the speedo read 7 mph faster at 60 mph. Now to the problem, it starts after a few revolutions and will idle, but don't try to give it gas it will buck, puke and everything else till it warms up,( there is no choke on a TBI and I have replaced the temperature sending unitalready and it has the digital dash, engine runs around 200 most of the time never hotter). Once warm it runs fairly good but you can't punch it. Surprisingly it gets 21 mpg on the hiway but below 15 around town. Any ideas where to look to get this cold beast tamed?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    With the standard 195deg thermostat it should be running around 200 and thats what the computer expects. Yep, old Blazers do require lots of repairs. My personal rule is over 10 years old its time to decide on lots of repairs and headaches or go new or newer.
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