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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair



  • My stereo does not light up any more, some of the lights do, but the numbers and the cd slot light no longer come on, is there a replacement bulb, or light bar? How difficult is it to dismantle the dash and stereo?
  • Over the last few months a noise has increased in volume. I think it comes from the transmission and is noticeable above 20 MPH. It sounds something like a whining or like you’re running over rumble strips found on the side of the highway. If it put it in neutral at any speed, nothing changes….and have noticed no problems when the vehicle shifts gears….basically everything works great and I’m still getting around 20 MPG. One odd item – occasionally if I hit a bump in the road, the noise stops very briefly.

    Other info on the Jimmy – 75k miles, 2 wheel drive, 4 door, used for towing only once from IL to FL.

    Any ideas what may be wrong?
  • I had the same problem on my '98 Blazer. Replaced the multifunction (a.k.a. combination) switch and it fixed it.
  • Kevin - I don't know if you fixed your wiper problem yet but it is easy and cheap to do (~$55). You need to replace the wiper control module (circuit board attached to the wiper motor) - part number is GM#12463090. Just a couple of screws and about 10 minutes of your time. (The problem is not the motor itself.)
  • Did you get any answers?I have 97 blazer ,will not engage 4wheel drive buttons flash but no engagement of front wheels.
  • The speedometer quit working. I was told that it had to be the speed sensor. I replaced that and it was not the problem. Short of trying to trace the wires to the back of the speedometer of which you can't get out unless you tare the dash apart, Has anyone else had the problem and what was the cure. Everything else works on the dash, but the speedometer and odometer. Thanks

  • ckk4ckk4 Posts: 13
    Anybody know the recommended filling capacity of the 97 Blazer differential (rear)?

  • bettbett Posts: 1
    Ever get this resolved? I see someone suggested changing out the combination signal switch? Mine just started.
  • I'm new to this Forum so please excuse any posting errors.
    You are a victim of the dreaded DexCool curse. I have had exactly the same problem with my '96 Blazer and went through two heater cores and an expensive six hour flush of the cooling system before I said "enough" and went to a local rad shop instead of the dealer. They knew right away what the problem was, back-flushed a load of crud from the system and put in the regular green ethylene glycol coolant. Not a problem in over a year. Soon after the rushing water sound started (it's water trapped in the core) I lost virtually all heat and in Ottawa, Ontario you sure need heat in winter. That will be your next symptom. As I said I'm new to this Forum and am shocked at the identical problems that many of us appear to have. My early '96 seems to be the cauldron in which the all the curses were brewed.
  • I think the problem you're having is user error. If you look in your vehicle's manual, it will say to only engage 4 LO (I'm assuming this is what you meant by Auto 4x4) at a slow roll (under 3mph) or at a complete stop. (It's easier to do it when stopped). Same goes for disengaging 4 LO. Otherwise, the lights will blink like you said and will keep it engaged.

    You're right about not using it on dry pavement. Driving 4 LO on dry pavement and then trying to turn will cause the vibration. It's not a problem from what I've come to understand. When I first bought my truck, I made the same mistake..."Ooohh, buttons! I think I'll push 'em!" and had the same response you're having (I didn't get a service light, though). For basic use of 4 LO, I pretty much only use it for deep mud or sand. You're also not supposed to take it over around 20 to 25 mph due to the lower gear ratio or you can mess some things up. If anyone has anything to add as to why low gear ratios cause vibration on dry ground, please feel free to add your comments...
  • tommctommc Posts: 68
    Keep a very close eye on the coolant level in the surge tank. Our 01 started leaking at 13K miles and the first symptom was this gurgling sound in the dash. Looked and looked and finally the engine started making noise, I then realized it was an internal leak, (and there's a long sad story about GM warranty service that I'll skip.) Has to be air in the system for ths noise to appear, and air is not good especially with the DexCool coolant in these. Watch that coolant.
  • jrh2jrh2 Posts: 6
    Have you found an answer to your problem yet? I have a 2000 with the same engine. Mine is a manual transmission. I had this happen three times in one day about two months ago. I went to the mechanic the next day and was told the fuel filter was probably clogged, and needed replacing. I had it replaced a few days later. I never had it happen after that one day, until now. A few days ago it did it again four times in one day . It hasn't done it since. So far, my mechanic is baffled. He says it could be anything from a module going bad to something going wrong in my fuel delivery system, or maybe I just need a tuneup. The fuel pump seems to be working fine, but it should, its only about two years old. Please let me know if you get an answer for this. I will do the same if I get one.
  • jrh2jrh2 Posts: 6
    My 2000 Jimmy was doing that on the right also. I took it to my mechanic, it was the ball joints. I had them replaced and it stopped. Well, only for a year and a half, now they are bad again! You would think they would last longer! Of course, I'm not sure if that is your problem, I'm not a mechanic. Hope it helps. Now that I think about it, I replaced them at about 60k miles, now I'm at 120k. Maybe they only last 60k miles! ">
  • bibbzbibbz Posts: 1
    My car wont start at all. The engine doesnt even try to turn over, I dont even get that damn clicking noise, but hey my radio works. Definitly not the battery, it is 2 months old and recharged to try to start car. Jumping doesnt help it still wont even try to turn over. It started a little roughly then after sitting for 3 hrs, it doesnt start at all. PLEASE HELP. STARTER? :confuse:
  • My '96 Blazer goes through ball joints like crazy and they have been the source of noise in turns as well. I have 150,000 kilometres on it and I'm on my third set (upper and lower). This last set has lasted a bit longer but I'm getting the feeling that they are about to go again so I'm getting about 50,000 kilometres on a set. I also did idler arm and tie rod ends earlier this year too. I wish there was a source of good, robust aftermarket parts for these vehicles (96 through 2004). You basically can't do much to them. CVs can be a source of noise when turning too but that's usually more of a loud clicking sound.
  • Yes my service engine soon light was on and the repair took care of everything. Hope you got it taken care of . If your mechanically inclined you could do it as you have to remove the upper intake manifold cover and you have imediate access to the part. I also replaced the upper intake manifold gasket just to be safe,12 dollars at advance. Good luck to you.
  • Hey gmgirl. I am having the same problems as are you, Fexy, and Rambo. I can't seem to get anywhere with my dealer or GM. What I want to know is, how can they say the jimmy is safe, when they have no idea what's wrong with it. :lemon: It's got to leave you feeling a little unsure "A"? I will be talking with the owner of Zimmer Wheaton tomorrow as well as GM once more. If I don't get a new Jimmy, (void of this problem) or my money back, I will be getting a lawyer. I don't think it would hurt to talk with a syndicated paper as well.
  • good luck...mine did that, then the trnasmission went out, cost $1,600 to fixed. Mine is a 95, which had two motors that year, ours is a side mounted spark plugs. it went out due to the evg or erv valve sticking and letting gas in the crankshaft...I need a motor if you know where I can get this particular one. The cheapest I can find is through the dealer at $2300. Check your egr valve
  • How long can I expect my ball joints to last if I keep filling them with grease?
  • :confuse: Anyone out there having the same prob with their 05 Jimmy? :lemon:
  • z71usaz71usa Posts: 2
    Just did my 99 SLT was cake! Took about 3 hours and a six pack also.

    Bought my hub at Auto Zone for $149.00

    Now it doesn't sound like I have Swamp Tires on.

    Don't forget to grease the new parts.Make life alot better next time to tear down.

  • alex18alex18 Posts: 1
    i have a 98 blazer, wat do i have 2 diconnect or take out 2 disangage the electronic speed control?
  • Hi..Any advice re what would cause my 97 jimmy not to start?..It has gas, turns over, but won't start..poured fuel into the thingamajig and it managed to catch and run as long as I kept pumping the accelerator.. also, my tank shows empty even after I fueled up...
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    You may also want to check out "No Start" Problems.

    tidester, host
  • My windshield washer motor does not squirt when turned on by the turn signal lever. After some tests, I found there is no power to the motor. The motor is good and the turn signal lever does turn on the wipers for wash. I checked the fuses on the inside and all are good. What can be checked next?

  • The problem is not the wiper motor or the fuses. You need to replace the wiper control module (circuit board attached to the wiper motor) - part number is GM#12463090. Just a couple of screws and about 10 minutes of your time. Should cost around $50-60 for the part.
  • Hi all,
    i have a 2000 GMC Jimmy with 90k miles, the other day I went to shut off the truck and the key would not come out. i took it to a dealer and they quoted me $500 to replace the shift interlock switch solenoid. I do most of my own work on my car if i know how to do it. is this hard to do? and where is the shift interlock switch solenoid? also is this the problem?

  • Are there other symptoms that might occur when this control module begins to go bad?

  • In my 96 Blazer I found that the wiper arms would just suddenly jerk a bit, particularly when you first hit the key. Not a complete sweep but just a bit of movement (quarter inch?) That's not a big deal, but when the whole thing goes south you suddenly don't have wipers. I had that happen a few years ago. Wasn't the motor, just the module but you generally will get dinged for the whole thing. Glad to hear there is a cheap and easy fix because the replacement is starting to show the same sort of movement at startup. Wish I'd known earlier. Keep an eye on it.
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