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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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  • psychodaddypsychodaddy Member Posts: 3
    I have a 96 S10 Blazer, can anyone identify the 3 relays in the glove box, I know one is for the fuel pump but which one? What do each of them do?

    thanks,
    Clay
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Look in the owners manual - should show and post back to verify. Mine are 98up (all under hood) but believe in the glove box 97earlier, looking at them left one is fuel pump and other 2 are horn and DRL. Pull it and try to start - no start thats it - if its running pulling will not shut off as there is a second parallel path running thru the oil pressure switch (only when running).
  • psychodaddypsychodaddy Member Posts: 3
    Sorry if I sound stuid but what does DRL stand for?

    Clay
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Daytime Running Lights. (or Lamp if you prefer).
  • psychodaddypsychodaddy Member Posts: 3
    Thank you very much!

    Clay
  • saskatoonguy1saskatoonguy1 Member Posts: 8
    When i hot my brakes in my jimmy, the dash board flashs, or sorry dims down. Theres piles of other examples, like turning on my heat, wipers, but somethings always flashing.

    Does anyone know where to look? Battery has not been checked out, terminals are clean, (could get new ones), alt looks brand spanking new but don;t know if it's as new as it looks.
  • jeffsisterjeffsister Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem. Have you fixed it?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    97 (only) have a known problem ignition switch (thats the name but actually the ignition module in the steering column and not the tumbler/key)- many posts on it.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Same as other 97 post.
  • my5kidsmommy5kidsmom Member Posts: 1
    I changed the Fuel Pump and relay after my Blazer would not start. It stopped working with no warning. I still have no fuel pressure. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated?
    I was thinking it may be ECM or Oil pressure switch ? Has anyone else encountered this? Also where isthe oil pressure switch located ?
    Thanks
    Carl
  • saskatoonguy1saskatoonguy1 Member Posts: 8
    Shes getting close to minus 30 and below soon out here and i get the feeling i might have to get her fixed. Does it give you a heads up before she finally goes, or is this the point where it's telling me to get her fixed?

    Also i got a new problem :surprise: It's dipped below -27 here and snowed only 15 centimeters so far. But sense it has i've noticed my gas petal is vibrating. What might be something to look at to solve this one? I cleaned all the snow from in the wheel wells by just parking her under doors for a few hours and letting all the snow melt.

    Thanks for your time
    Chris in s'toon
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Check the fuel pump relay behind the glove box (left one) and there is a test wire under hood on brake side - red wire with connector that you can apply 12v to and test the pump. Also check the ECM fuse. As I understand the oil pressure switch is in parallel and only keeps the pump running after it is started and the main relay fails - no impact to starting.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Move - FL is 82 today but the pools only at 75 so too cold to swim ha, ha. I worked in Edmunton at -35 and never again!

    So, is the vehicle operating temp at 195F or normal. Have you added gas line antifreeze or dry gas? Water in the gas will raise hell at those temps - been there and had a frozen line before.
  • saskatoonguy1saskatoonguy1 Member Posts: 8
    :D That'd be kick @ss to be hitting those temps here. That last little bit here has been cold, minus 28 the lowest so far, but we've climbed towards minus 18 now.

    I think yeah i'll try out some gasline antifreeze, nice idea, i never would have thought of that until later on down the road. Trucks running at normal temp though.

    Thanks alot
    Chris
  • lcnoblelcnoble Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for your time and expertise. I searched and could not find answers. Summer time and heat, engine stalls, let cool and sit a few, engine starts, especially bad in stop and go. In line fuel filter changed, 1st time almost plugged, second time ok. Can hear pump run on ignition initiation. Cool weather, no problem, until today.

    Transmission started slipping, do not know why. Runs about 500 extra rpm before shifting, (you can also hear the extra 500 rpm), and now runs 500 extra rpm in overdrive compared with previous speed and rpm. Same with other gears. Problem gets worse the longer the Blazer is driven. Ok when cold. Engine also stalled for the first time in a while, even in cool weather. Engine temp. gauge shows normal, however, gauge does strange things when key is turned off. No sign of overheating. Fluid levels are normal, but do not know last time transmission fluid and filter changed.

    I am starting to think both are tied to the PCM. Have you heard of this? I hope so, I hate gas tanks, transmission fluid, exhaust and bell housing bolts. I also have intermittent problems with the fuel fill, but I can not find the posting numbers. Do you know which thread? Thanks again.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    2wd and mileage? Get that trans filter done and most bigger trans shops will check it out free and have a plug in tester. The trans has a TCC for pump pressure and a solenoid for each gear shift. The convertor slipping could cause an rpm increase but get it to a shop - changing the filter requires dropping the pan and 4 qts or so and drips all down your arms and into face if not careful - just did 2 of them using ramps and stll a mess - pans both had lots of fine particles and there is a magnet in the pan to catch as for the stalling any codes (SES light)? If not test the fuel pressure and 60psi key on engine off and then 53psi up running - posted that many times. When was the last tuneup with a Delco cap/rotor (avoid cheap ones) plugs ad wires? Then air filter clean?
    As for fuel fill they all burp when near full and if you are in a state with the overflow nozzle like CA they always are a pain. There is a ball in there thats to prevent siphoning and over filling. And when running, fuel always flows to the injector spider on the engine and then excess return flows based on use and pressure (see the 2 metal lines from the rear of the engine to the spider under the plastic housing - that valve on it is the pressure test port also).
    Finally check the vac lines under hood engine to drivers side for rot and if 4wd to the firewall mounted solenoid - if bad replace most 5/32 and larger is 7/32".
  • lcnoblelcnoble Member Posts: 3
    Just FYI, 4wd, 20 to 25 if you keep your foot out of it. I understand you as saying that these fuel pumps will operate at lower pressures, giving sufficient supply under certain conditions. Not what I wanted to hear! I do not get stalling codes, but I do have the typical O2 sensor lights, left and right bank. However, I understand that the PCM will operate the engine for optimum performance with these codes, as if the sensors were operating normally. I will post results. Thanks again.
  • saskatoonguy1saskatoonguy1 Member Posts: 8
    Works good right now with the gasline antifreeze in there, thanks for the reply. No more shaking for the gas petal no more. :) :shades:
  • gabe7gabe7 Member Posts: 1
    Hi Guys,
    I'm looking at buying a 94 Blazer (small size) but it has a problem. Every couple a days it blows the 20a fuse that controlls the guages, it also stops charging and gets stuck in 3rd gear. Its a 4.3 Vortex with 97k miles on it. Is this a common thing or will I have to go dash diving for a shafed wire. When I was test driving it, it blew when I hit a bump. Any ideas would be great.

    Tks
    Gabe
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Thats the digital dash I believe, last year - do a search online for it and you will find several companies that rebuild them as they can have shorts on the circuit baord. If not digital you will need to buy a manual and start checking wires and components whose power goes thru that one fuse.
  • lcnoblelcnoble Member Posts: 3
    I told you wrong about the O2 sensors, apparently I fixed those in the past by re seating them. The SES was on because of these codes:

    P0741 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off

    P1870 TCC Stuck Off 2 each
    Transmission Component Slipping

    PO128 Coolant temp below thermostat regulating temp, 2 each
    ECT Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature(GM)
    Coolant Thermostat Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature

    Well, I got lucky because changing the fluid and filter made the transmission operate better than before. The thermostat change is next. I do have some type of vacuum line with holes in it. The line runs from a switch on the firewall to something under the battery support frame. I do know what the components are at this time. The hose either melted or chaffed on the rear, right side of the intake manifold. The hose runs under the manifold to underneath the battery frame. Once again, thanks, and I will keep you posted.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Thats the 4wd front vac line that runs from the solenoid down to the actuator under the battery tray that when vac applied pulls a cable to the pass side of the front axle to engage it. Needed for all 4wd modes. You should be able to replace the burned part with 5/32 or 7/32 line and an inline plastic connector - the end on the under battery actuator is special type.
  • ckk4ckk4 Member Posts: 13
    Thanks. A assume this is for the single spindle nut. Do you know what the four attachment bolt torque is?
  • jimavejimave Member Posts: 4
    Well, I hate it when you are right and still get screwed. I finally brought the S10 into another mechanic and found that the new fuel pump which is less than 6 months old failed and now I have a new one. My ole truck is back and running great. Thanks for your input.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    All 4wd and 2wd 95up are lower 79 ft-lbs and upper 61 ft-lbs
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Lots of problems with non-Delco pumps.
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Member Posts: 33
    borrowed my jimmy to someone and she overheated..replaced the water pump..she was bad..borrowed it again overheated again...(women)..anyway she has a knock like a lifter..with the engine running backed off all the rockers..no change...undid all the plug wires as she was runnin ..no change..I know what ford lifters sound like but this does not compute..she has 60k on rebuilt new cam pistons and crank..runs fine but that knock is knockin my socks off..p.s. she is sittin im garage till next june....good oil pres. ..also statically adjusted valves today still runs fine but that knock..or lets call it a tinkkkk ideas? j :confuse:
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Member Posts: 33
    the overheating was the fan clutch pretty much done everything cept pull the motor...she runs on all 6 even with all the hoses plugged while i am trying to diagnose...is this something i can live with?..water is clean..oil is clean..1 thing when she was rebuilt the guy put in a slightly bigger cam..that equated to less power as we never changed the nozzles (throttle body 220).. but like i said ...ah I dont know if he changed the lifters....?anyway :)
  • ckk4ckk4 Member Posts: 13
    Thanks. I'm sorry, but I'm still confused. On the ball joint assembly, there's one spindle nut (the male, or ball joint), and four attachment bolts (on the female, or where the ball joint is pressed into). Do you know (a) what the spindle torque is, and (b) what the torque is for the four bolts. I assuming also that the spindle bolt torque is what you have previously lised?

    Thanks in advance.
  • phoenixssn702phoenixssn702 Member Posts: 7
    Hi, My 4.3 liter 4wd automatic transmission has slipped its linkage. I re-adjusted it so it would lock in park. Afterwards it would not shift into drive and would start in reverse. I did it again and now the lever range is all drive and I cannot put it in park to remove the keys. No neutral or reverse. Have to start in drive.
    When I checked the linkage the dedent click are not there except in the D1 D2 and the part lock seems to engage.
    Can this be fixed externally? Do I have to pull the pan and site the dedents and realign there?
    I can run this for a few days but starting in drive is hard on the started and battery, not to mention only pulling in to a space with nose out. Thanks a lot, Gene.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Yes, the 1 big nut is balljoint to knuckle nut and what I listed. The 4 nuts are what the replacement kit instructions list as their torque based on bolt size/type and are between 8-15 ft lbs, model dependent.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Book says with parking brake on, loosen swivel nut on linkage, put shifter in N, go down to trans and find N for sure in the trans by pushing shift lever forward then back to second detent, tighten swivel nut, check to see if all OK. Hope that fixes.
  • carolinagirl48carolinagirl48 Member Posts: 18
    I have a 1992 S-10 Blazer with the electronic dash. It has 84K on it, and was bought new. For the past few months, I have had problems with the speedodometer working, going out, and coming back on. I have only had problems with the speed reading and signal lights. All of the other gauges worked constantly as they should. I thought maybe it could be a short or something. Does anyone have experience with this type of thing, so that I will know how to proceed? Thanks.
  • mnichymnichy Member Posts: 3
    I have a 91 GMC Jimmy S-15 SUV and the steering colum is loose at the tilt. It wiggles and moves no matter what position it is in. No one seems to know how to repair this problem or know where to find instructions on this repair. Please help.
  • stinknosestinknose Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 Blazer 4wd/4dr. It all happen when I went to the Carolina's for the July 4. Driving back home I had my lap top plugged into the adapter and cd player plugged into another adapter and AC blowing. The jeep shut off, then when I tried to start, it would stall. Then I it felt like the gas was'nt givin any power to the engine. While at a stop light or stopping in traffic it would shut off and if it was over heating. So most important I notice that when I play my radio it get's hot and my window controll buttons get warm, then the car would shut off again. Finally had it check, and I was told it was the fuel pump, but just went to auto zone and was told that it can me my harness wiring. Any ideas what I can do before I pay $300 and labor for a new fuel pump. I believe it is a electrical short somewhere. :cry:
  • jubilee1229jubilee1229 Member Posts: 4
    I am trying to replace the third brake light on my '02 Jimmy. Of course you can't just replace a bulb on these ones, you have to buy a whole new light. I have the new one and I have made sure that it is the correct replacement.

    Does anyone have any instructions on how to replace this light? Most importantly, how to get to where the wires "plug in"?

    Thank you
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Check the VSS connector and wiring on the transmission tail (2wd) or trnasfer (4wd) that feeds the dash. A general online search for 92 Blazer electric dash will yield rebuilts and info on their problems.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Never done one but have to think pull the headliner down (hopefully only the rear section partially) to bolt thru roof and get to connector.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Radios all get hot due to the amp built in it. Check your battery and alternator for correct voltage first then a fuel pressure test to determine if really the pump. GM has had some problems with dirty/loose connectors on the top of the pump causing a voltage drop also so they can be cleahed with electronic spray cleaner and reinstalled. Also could be the fuel pump relay so swap it with a similar one under hood box.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Ask your parts store about "91 blazer steering columns" or do a general search and companies and info pop right up.
  • stinknosestinknose Member Posts: 2
    Can I do this myself, or do I need to take it to a shop. If I can do this myself, how do I get to the connectors. Please explain step by step process so I can follow. I really appreciated your help. Thank you, I will swap the fuel pump relay today and will let you know. How will I know if it working right. Oh by the way I did check my battery and alternator and they are fine. Can do the fuel pressure test myself or do I need to go to a shop
  • carolinagirl48carolinagirl48 Member Posts: 18
    How complicated is checking the VSS connector and trnaster?
    I can order a rebuilt motherboard on ebay with a limetime warranty for about $50 shipped. Either way, I will have to get a mechanic to do the work. Thanks.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    You need a fuel pressure tester thats about $35 and all stores have them, usually an Actron. Test at the fuel rail (metal) under hood by the distributor. Min 60psi key on engine off and then 53psi running. Just don't dump alot of fuel back there - if in doubt use a shop to do.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Usually the board. If the VSS fails puts you in first gear as the norm.
  • jubilee1229jubilee1229 Member Posts: 4
    Tried that already...nothing for the third brake light there.
  • guestguest Member Posts: 770
    sounds crazy but kick back bumper usally a loose ground wire.
  • mojo23mojo23 Member Posts: 4
    well we got out 2001 LT blazer a little over a year ago. I love the truck its awesome, but recently we have had some problems. we were driving up to rockford hours from home, and our transmission made some nasty clunking sounds, and then wouldn't shift into reverse. so we took it to a local dealership, who were very nice and the warranty covered basically rebuilding the transmission,we didn't have the truck for a week. well just the other day before a big, ice/sleet/snow storm for the 1st time since we got it back I hit the auto 4wd button and nothing happened, I also got stuck in the snow. it won't shift into any of the 4wd gears at all, the panel just blinks and it goes back to 2hi. yesterday I took it back to the dealership I bought it from , and an hour later they told me the decoder motor went bad. they would have to order a new one. well we bought an extended warranty and that doesn't even cover it. they are saying $830 to fix it. I won't have it fixed, I can't afford that. I tried the disconnect the battery trick, and it just does the same thing. I still think them doing something with the transmission and this are connected because it worked when I gave it to them. any one have any solutions here ?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    They had to take the transfer case out to fix the transmission so its possible they did not connect one of the connectors completely, so do a search and you will see the many posts on the possible causes and fixes. If it is the encoder motor they are about $200 new online. Got to get 4Hi to work first so that front actuator has to work.
  • mojo23mojo23 Member Posts: 4
    today while doing some expiramenting I think I got the truck to shift to 4LO. then I think it also was able to go to 4hi, I think, but no auto 4wd. the weird part about all this is the lights on the dash for the corresponding gears, still blink, but you can definitely tell the difference.
  • chet53chet53 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, My name is Chet. My Son has a 91 Blaser and it had the same problem. the problem is inside the steering where the tilt wheel knucle is. if you remove the steering wheel and the turn signal assembly. look (deep) inside the column, (use a flashlight) you will see torx (could be hex head) screws/bolts that hold the knucle (like a u-joint) together. you will very likely find at least two of them loose. I had to do this fix twice and so you should know that just tightening them up is not good enough. if you want it to last, you have to remove the bolts, clean them well and re-install them with some thread-locker on the threads. I did this about a year ago and it has been fine since then. by the way, be careful to get the high/low dimmer switch rod back in it's proper location before final assembly. AND, if you let it go too long without fixing it, one or more of these bolts may fall out and lock-up the steering.... be careful. Hope this helps...
    Chet
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