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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Maybe torque converter so try 3rd and see if its stable. Misses are a pain but check the fuel pressure also. Check plug wires and then see if a vac leak. Then theres the crank sensor or a clogged injector - hard to pinpoint as you know if no codes and no scanner. Under $100 for a dealer to scan and pinpoint and may save you pulling your hair out.
  • mjz123mjz123 Member Posts: 1
    Have an interesting problem with my 95 Blazer LS (4.3L V6). It has about 192,000 original miles on it. Unlike apparently a lot of folks, mine has been essentially trouble-free until now. Recently took it on a trip of about 200 miles each way. Everything was fine for first 40 miles. I was on the interstate doing about 70-75 mph when the engine suddenly appeared to lose all electrical power momentarily then recovered and everything returned to normal. Did that 8 or 9 times. When it happened, speedometer dropped and surged. ABS and Airbag lights came on and remained on for about 5 secs. Exited the freeway and pulled into a Chevy dealer near the exit. Service and parts were closed. Checked under the hood and everything appeared normal. Started up the engine and everything appeared normal. Doesn't happen every day but some days it happens all day. Mostly happens on acceleration even when not on highway. Is very inconsistent.
    thanks
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Fuel, spark, or electrical so have to start testing and nail it down. At that mileage could be any component.
  • daylyndaylyn Member Posts: 12
    Hi there! I had the same problem with my 1997 Jimmy. When I had it hooked up to the computer, the fault code was 0300-multiple misfire. This was fixed by a new cap and rotor. Unfortunately for me, the misfire caused a sensor problem, which caused a transmission problem.

    Best to take care of this now, before it turns into a big headache as mine did.
    Best of luck to you.
  • joshsniderjoshsnider Member Posts: 1
    I own a 98 Blazer LS 4-door 4WD. I am having problems starting it up, but the problems are varied and intermittent.

    At times the car starts fine.

    Sometimes when I am driving, the SECURITY light comes on the dash, though it lets me drive fine. However, as soon as I turn the car off, it doesn't let me start the car again. When I try to start the car (while the SECURITY light is on or sometimes flashing) the engine will give a gug-gug-gug, but won't fully start up and immediately dies. However, if I simply leave the car for about 30 minutes or so and come back, the security light will not come on and the car will start fine... until the next time it happens.

    Another time when I went to start the car recently, all I got was a click and nothing else. When the key was placed in the ON position, everything in the vehicle worked fine (lights, radio, fan, etc.), but when I went to start the car, everything in the car died and all I heared was a click from the engine.

    However, I am back to the first problem now. The car starts when it wants to and doesn't at other times. The SECURITY light seems to come on with no provocation, either while I am driving or right when I go to start the car.

    I have taken the car to 2 shops and they don't have a clue. And any time I call for a tow, the car starts before they get there.

    I am at my wits end. Please help me. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Desperately yours, Josh. :confuse:
  • ashley6ashley6 Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a 2001 GMC Jimmy in 2004. I have a bumper to bumper warranty, but yet the heater core issues and the sludge returns. Does anyone the true part that needs to be replaced? The dealership tells me it's a different part each time I take it in. I'm needing flushes more often than every six months and they replaced the radiator in June. What should I do next?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Dex cool requires NO air in the system or thats what happens. That 5/100 GM crap was all BS - requires 3/36 change and attention to parts. Also the correct 50/50 mix or a voltage diff occurs that eats the metal. After the new radiator and a new heater core (have to put dash) which always leak after the mess you describe, the system flushed, all air removed from the system, a new thermostat, and a new STANT cap, and all hoses and waterpump good, system should work fine. Run the reservior at full hot line when cold - this ensures no air gets in the system. Hate to bring it up but if you are still seeing the reservior slowly drop and the rad/heater core/watrepump/hoses all do not leak, the 4.3 engine is prone to a leaking lower intake gasket that most often leaks internally into the valley and you never see it but a slow drop in fluid and lifter tap may occue at startup after sitting overnight.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    You may have an incorrect Passlock sensor voltage covers 98-01 under GM service bulltin 01-08-56-001A. May set code B2960.

    Sec lamp comes on and off when driving.
    Sec lamp on.
    Engine cranks but does not start and lamp flashes.
    Engine stalls and lamp flashes.

    Dealer has the repair sheets on this and caused by electrical connections or wiring. When this happens does the Sec lamp NOT go out after 5 seconds when you turn the key to run and engine does not start - thats Passlock. When strange things happen to GMs the dealer has the experience and tech info so sorry to say at $90/hour they end up being cheaper cause they actually can fix them. When I fail in my repairs they are next on my list unually getting towed in but driven out.
  • patrick65patrick65 Member Posts: 2
    The speedometer display went out on my S10 Blazer. Only the speedometer everything else works. Is there anyone that has had this problem that could point me in the right direction? I am close to ordering a new instrument cluster.

    Thank you
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Same problem as the other post yesterday and the circuit card has problems so order a rebuilt/fix yours, such as:
    1989-94 Blazer/Jimmy/S-10/Bravada Digital Unit - Repair Cost only $159 USD includes all shipping!! Now only $149!
    Companies found online easily.
  • jpmccrjpmccr Member Posts: 31
    OK Kiddies, heres the poop: 2001 Chevy Blazer LT, 94600 miles, auto, 4WD. I got a Service Engine Soon light (steady not blinking) this morning on the way to work. We have OnStar and they ran the GM Good Wrench Engine Diagnostic for me. It came back with the following info: Good Wrench Code PO155(or P0155) and listed it as Emission Control System Malfunction. What do I need to do since my truck has to be inspected next month. Is this something I can do or is it a Dealer/Mechanic job??? Please help . . . . .
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Easy one gramps:
    P0155 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
    Replace the front O2 sensor on the passenger side up by the exhaust manifold - look under behind the front tire follow wires to pipe and sensor - check the wires and connector first and make sure they are connected. The rear sensor behind cat is bank 2 sensor 2. One on drivers side is bank 1 sensor 1 (only one). Advance and AutoZ read and erase codes free. About a $55 part. Confirm the code before buying the part.
  • patrick65patrick65 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks Dog,
    You wouldn't be able to explain what circuit card and where it may be? Would you?
    I really appreciate your help.
  • jpmccrjpmccr Member Posts: 31
    Thanks for the information. So I am replacing the one on the front passengers side exhaust manifold. Why so many of these things?? 1 at the converter, and 1 on each side of the manifold? I guess there is a reason but beats me why. I talked to Advance and it is $56.96 (here in NJ anyway). BTW I am not that old just like the sound of it when I typed it in. :P
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    As a note 99-01 have the wonderful addition of the secondary air injection pump that blows air into the exhaust manifolds for 1 minute at startup to prefire the cat (pump under radiator and lines and check valves on manifold). The O2 sensors are heated and the PCM monitors each side output vs the cat output and adjusts mixture alone with all other sensor inputs.
  • jpmccrjpmccr Member Posts: 31
    Again thanks for the information but here is the crazy part of the issue. On my way to pick up the part this morning I notice as I pull out of our development the Service Engine Soon light is out. GONE!!! So I am assuming that since our development has speed bumps, the connection must be loose. So I will check it out. The engine seems to be running fine. Go figure . . . . (I didn't want to spend $57 any way this weekend. TOO cold to be crawling around underneath a truck!) ;)
  • kduffykduffy Member Posts: 1
    i AM WORKING ON A 93 BLAZER. i HAVE 69 PSI FEUL PRESSURE. i HAVE USED A NOID LIGHT TO CONFIRM THAT THE INJECTOR IS RECEIVING VOLTAGE FROM THE ECM. A MECHANIC TESTED THE INJECTOR OUT OF THE VEHICLE AND WE CAN HEAR IT AND FEEL IT RUNNING. I HAVE SOAKED THE POPPETS IN CARBERATOR CLEANER OVERNIGHT. STILL NO FUEL?
  • jtheifjtheif Member Posts: 4
    I having problems starting my truck in the cold it only happens when it gets cold. If I start it by crossing the starter it will start up (like touch the positive on the negitve nuts on the start it will start right up)other then that once i get it started and go some wherethen park shut off i have a problem restarting it it take several turns of the ignition before it starts back up. the starter i have is brand new maybe 2 months old the starter will click when the key is turned but the flywheel does not move till i cross the starter if anyone has any ideas it would be helpful
    Thanx Frustated Auto Guy :confuse:
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Same as other reply.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Thats pretty high almost like a pinched off return line. Normal at KOEO is 60-65. The prime circuit is not same as run so check the fuel pump fuses (believe ECM related ones on these older ones) and relays.
  • jax6jax6 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Blazer (2WD V6 4.3L) that is having the same buzzing behind the glovebox that others have mentioned. When headlights are on, DRL indicator flickers and comes on (sometimes with or without the buzzing noise) and headlights go out. Hitting the brakes, using the turn signals or hazards will make the buzz go in time to the blinking. We replaced the multifunction switch on the steering column and still the noise continues when headlights are turned on. :confuse: Anyone have any other fixes or ideas for this problem? thx.
  • pribylcrewpribylcrew Member Posts: 2
    :confuse: :confuse: The heater won't work, I know that the c02 sensor has to be replaced. The heater didn't work about a week ago, we just had a CD player put in and now the heater won't work?! I'm hoping someone knows something. Any suggestions?
  • pribylcrewpribylcrew Member Posts: 2
    Actually, a week ago the heater wouldn't work and we played with the knobs for a bit and it kicked on. but now today it won't work at all and there is a weird buzzing sound that you can hear outside of the car but not inside. I wonder if that's something seperate or related?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Headlight relay chatter possibly. Think its behind the glove box on 97. Also the known problem ignition switch - actually the connector and wiring).
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Air in/clogged heater core will cause a strange sound in the core thats behind the dash pass side. Dex cool needs to be flushed 3/36 do not believe the GM 5/100 crap. If not done in the last 2-3 years get it flushed. If has been done buy 3' of 5/8 and 3/4 heater hose and remove the hoses at the firewall (cover dist so it stays dry) and flush the core with a garden hose and that may do it.
  • jerseytommyjerseytommy Member Posts: 1
    I've got the 4wd, so looks really tight to get to block side connection. Using basic tools, will you recommend way to lift engine 1" as you mentioned? Do you need to loosen engine mounts?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Many people just use a block of wood under the oil pan and a floor jack off set to the drivers side, but the danger is cracking the rubber engine mount. After positioning the wood/jack, you access thru the drivers side wheel well flap, you can remove the long bolt that holds the mount to the frame and then you jack the mount lifts - but access is a pain. Same for that rear bolt on the line to the block which requires access from the front with an 18-24" extension. Then do not forget the little 3/4 inch long bolt holding the lines to the front edge of the block - again a pain so you have to find best access angle for small socket (think I used 1/4" drive racket on that one and all sockets are metric). Take your time.
  • tenpinarmtenpinarm Member Posts: 8
    I have a 99 Jimmy. Under normal acceleration it surges up and down until I'm at cruising speed. It seems to run ok until I step on the pedal and then it hesitates before speeding up.The fuel filter has been changed.If I put the pedal to the floor starting up it seems to stop the problem most of the time.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    This could be anything. What mileage and what have you done to it? Any SES codes? By 100k time for cap/rotor/plugs.
  • tenpinarmtenpinarm Member Posts: 8
    According to my mechanic the only code coming up relates to the 4wd.He said he's never seen this problem before. On another forum there was a reference to the LEGR valve getting a carbon buildup.It has 95,000 miles. Beside plugs and possibly plug wires what should I replace? The air filter was changed about 8,000 miles ago.
  • dep24dep24 Member Posts: 1
    This is the ignition. Same thing happened on my 97. I had to get it done at the dealer because by the time you mess around with keys and stuff it ends up cheaper at the dealer. Still not cheap.
  • jim102jim102 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for posting this! I have the same problem. Any other info you may have, or pics would be greatly appreciated!
  • jim102jim102 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 99 gmc jimmy, I have replaced the fuel pump, and the wires. When I start it, it tries to start, then goes dead. I have to get in the back and wiggle the wires connected to the top of the pump, they are tight and in place, but do not seem to be getting a good connection for some reason. The wires were replaced about 6 months ago, but now for some reason have just started doing this. Anyone know what the problem could be?
  • jeff98jeff98 Member Posts: 1
    my 98 jimmy did the stall thing when it was damp outside and it was my coil wire. good luck
  • mrmech2mrmech2 Member Posts: 1
    2001 jimmy going crazy while driving check gauges,seat belt,4x4,abs,brake light and battery flash and all gauges go bake and forth except volts and compass flash also but when hit brakes everthing is normal soon as you let go does it again also once when shutting key off everything went blank lights radio etc. what is causing this loose starter wire????? or what help please
  • gibeaugibeau Member Posts: 2
    1995 Jimmy SLT Is going crazy, started with all dashboard lights and power door and window lights and overhead console lights flicking on and off three times in sync. Then it started flashing over and over(one-two-three-pause.... one-two three-pause...etc)but did not stop when I parked and took my key out. Then I noticed the parking lights and front signal lights where flashing in sync too. Also a beep when I took the keys out. It hasn't stopped and I had to take the battery cables off to stop the battery from draining over night.
    Please Help ....... its a code for something......
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    What code #? A vac leak, cap/rotor failing, MAF sensor dirty, fuel pump failing (check pressures), clogged injector, loose wiring, etc. Doubt EGR on newer model but possible. That ignition issue below was 97 specific.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Bad ground, fuel pump relay, or pump failing again if cheapo one are possible.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Doubt starter wire cause that primary (small) wire is only powered in stsrt position to get starter to engage. How about the brake light switch up on the pedal having bare wires or internal failure. 2001 had a recall on the flasher/hazard switch and its free replacement and causes only the top mounted brake light to work. Check the battery and the terminals also, as well as alternator (free at most stores).
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Thats not the full digitak dash is it? If so thats the problem, if not is there a security system in the vehicle?
  • gibeaugibeau Member Posts: 2
    No, its an analog dash. No security system. The beep that is coming with the flashes is a short burst of the sound that you get when you leave your lights on or keys in the ignition and open your door. Battery was just replaced, catalyst converter replaced, and Fuel injector replaced recently. SUV is very stock. Was wondering if it had something to so with the stock anti-theft if there is one. GM couldn't tell anything.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Haven't heard of that one yet but the Passlock system has a Security light that flashes when the system thinks someone has activated it or due to the failure caused by a bad connector/wiring that GM has issued a bulletin on.
  • azcamperazcamper Member Posts: 5
    I had a very similar problem on my 2001 Blazer. It would come and go.. I finally determined it was the battery cable not making good contact with the +terminal on the battery. It wasn't corroded or loose, but removing, cleaning and reattaching it solved the problem.
  • y2msuy2msu Member Posts: 1
    looking for help i always come here first, so i though i may be able to help someone else.

    1995 gmc jimmy 4x4 4.3 w code automatic :sick:

    my jimmy just wouldn't start one day, got it going eventually but ran really rough and had no acceleration at all. long story short the code read maf but my jimmy does not have a mass air flow sensor, it was a $12 vaf just before the throttle body on the bottom of the intake baffle.

    thought for sure i had another egr problem or plugged catalytic convertor or low fuel pressure, but was just this sensor

    hope this helps someone :)
  • tenpinarmtenpinarm Member Posts: 8
    The code was #1875. I've been having a continuing problem with the 4wd. The Trans case control module was replaced about 2 yrs. ago. About 2 mos. ago the 4wd stopped again.No used modules available. I pulled the mod. and cleaned the plugs and checked continuity on the mod. About 3 wks ago it just started working again(no clue why). Today it quit again so I pulled the mod. out, sprayed it with contact cleaner and it's working again. I've been told there's no corelation to the acceleration problem. I've just been stepping a little harder on the accelerator.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    As far as I have been able to find that code relates to the 4W low switch circuit which is the wiring or the TCCM bad, and yes I think if its bad the PCM thinks you are in 4lo and changes shift points so accel would be altered. Try disconnecting the TCCM and see if it shifts/accel correctly. Search online for the TCCM if needed at rockauto or gmparstdirect at much chaper price.
  • oakleymanoakleyman Member Posts: 4
    Hi all, im having a problem starting my 1994 2d GMC Jimmy 4wheel drive truck. When it does start it starts rough like something is off, but once it startes it runs just fine with no problems, it does however idle slightly rough. The problem is once if had it running for awhile and shut it off and try to start it again say within an hour it wont start, it turns over just fine but take about 10 seconds of cranking before it gets going then the exhaust smells like gas. But it it sits overnight or all day at work it seems to start up just fine, what gives :confuse:

    This past summer I replaced the ignition control modulel, fuel filter, plugs,wires,distribitor,rotor and plugs.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Sounds like CPI and nut kit (lines) under the upper intake so search on those and see all the info. 96up changed injection so this is Blazers/Jimmies after the TBI system and before 96 like yours.
  • oakleymanoakleyman Member Posts: 4
    What should I ask for at the autoparts store? Just a new CPI? or new lines too. When you say upper intake you mean just before the throttle body.
  • oakleymanoakleyman Member Posts: 4
    I see its just one whole unit, thanks for the info.

    As long as I have to rip my truck apart I was wondering about my 4 wheel drive problem, like I said I have 94 Jimmy 2d with an electronic transfer case, the button does not work when the truck is running you can only get it to work in manual mode(key turned back) even then it only works some of the time you can hear it trying to put it 4 wheel drive but it makes a lot of noise and it take quite a few tries going back and fourth between low and high to get it to stick in 4 wheel drive. Any solutions out there :confuse:

    Thanks, Ken
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