Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Do you currently own a 2019 or newer RAM pickup? A reporter would like to speak with you. Please reach out to [email protected].com by 1/27 for more info.

Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

1555658606172

Comments

  • First time posting to this list which has been a great help in the past. I'm the second owner of the truck, I've had it now for about three years. It's high millage with 160,000 miles but at the time I purchased it with 150,000 miles I considered it a good buy because before it was owned by a group of sail plane pilots who kept every record on the truck and it was very, very well maintained. In early Dec. of last year my Jimmy which has the 4.3L Z engine died on me but after a change of plugs, wires, cap and rotor, fuel filter and the addition of a Jacobs Electronics Ultra Coil the truck up until last week ran better then ever. It now dies at idle and when I go to accelerate it is very low on power although it seems to be firing on all six cylinders. when it shifts it's at high revs and the truck lurches and top speed seems to be about 35 mph. I've once again changed every thing I did back in Dec. and on the advice of an engineer at work I changed out the oxygen sensor with no improvement. I'm at wits end am sadly without a code reader. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!!
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Advance and Autozone and most stores will read the codes for free (this assumes the SES light is on so a posted code). They also have a free handout that tells you how to read them out yourself cause thus is a 90 so believe old system and you can get the light to flash the code out. Very common is the old CPI and nut kit which is the injection under that upper intake - it leaks and does what you stated so do a search on CPI and Blazer and you will find many answers.
  • Thanks for the speedy reply repairdog. I see that you have been a great help to many. I've been pouring over my Chilton manual this morning trying to find any info on the CPI unit but with no success. I've done the search as suggested and have come to guess (probably mistaken) that CPI stands for Central Port Injection. My jimmy being a 1990 model is equipped with the Rochester TBI unit. :confuse: Would this still have the CPI and nut kit (supply lines)? Again, many thanks!!
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Sorry, missed that 90 date. No CPI on the TBI models only the electric injectors on the throttle body. You have the book so now check the fuel pressure to see if fuel pump related or relays.
  • No problem repairdog, figured that out this morning. have done a host of things mainly checking and re checking things in leu of having much to go on as far as diagnostic tools. I've noticed that there is no fuel entering the top left throat of the TBI. Is this the secondary? Noticed a pinched wire leading to the injector. Wire integrity seems ok, have insulated it the best I can. Have wired in a Jacobs FC 1000 ignition module and it starts with no problems so I can rule out any problems with the ignition system. I work at Mallory Electric so I guess I can talk to a few people there and maybe find out more.
  • I’ve been having a front diff. actuator problem with my 4wd ’02 blazer ZR2. With the vac. line above the driver side fender plugged in the actuator won’t engage below 35mph. While on the highway above 35mph (roughly) the actuator engages. It will not engage with the vac line unplugged at that speed. Are there any long term effects leaving the vac line unplugged while only in 2wd and does the speed have any effect on the vac switch itself? Is the vac switch the source of my problems? Thank you for any help
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Can't say for sure but if you disconnect the vac line under hood to the 3 port you must plug the engine side off (golf T is great). The 3 port switch on the case is about $20 so try that first (based on 3 button 233 case - tag on case - not the 236 4 button Autotrac case). Check all lines under and up to the front actuator that the vac engages and that pulls a cable to lock or coupler the pass side axle. Then at the same time (when you select 4Hi) the encoder motor on the case steps and engages the front driveshaft. So, once you select 4Hi axle couples and front shaft engaged and light on dash stops blinking and goes solid on 4Hi - if not the TCCM (4wd computer) did not get readings from the sensors on the axle and case confirming status.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    All mine are newer models so this is a reach back. The fuel pressure per Haynes is 9-13psi. Assembly has the throttle body and fuel metering controlled by the throttle position sensor(TPS) on the throttle butterfly shaft which signals the PCM that then determines the mixture. 1 injector is primary and 1 secondary as I recall (had a 350 Suburban TBI). Also an idle air control (IAC) on the TBI that maintains idle by air mixture. $15 Hayes shows most of this.
  • frschevyfrschevy Posts: 2
    I have a 04 chevy blazer 6 cyl 4 wheel drive.
    I purchased in Jan 07. (39,000 miles)
    Its been back to the dealer 4 times for stalling.
    I'm just driving down the road and its shuts off.
    I still have power but the engine quits.
    so for all that has been done is (replaced)
    the distributer cap and roater,the coil and something attached to it. They can't figure it out. I don't get any
    check engine lites. Im pritty sure the problem is electrical,but who knows. Can anyone help this is driving me crazy.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Crank shaft position sensor??? If intermittent it will not set a code. But the fail mode is that it thinks the engine is not turning and will shut off the fuel and ignition. One way I have isolated it is to try this. When the engine quits, WITHOUT TURNING THE KEY OFF try and start the engine. If it will not fire, turn the key to OFF, count to ten seconds or so, then see if it will start. If it fires right up, you may have an intermittent sensor. I have seen this on late 80's and early 90's, but the discription you give does seem similar.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    I agree that is often the one - my daughters 01 just did that and I replaced the CPS (use a Delco or standard motors sensor - many others are slightly off and effect timing). Then also if that simple $60 part that takes 2 minutes to change is not it, look at the idle air control (IAC) valve on the side of the throttle body - its electric and controls the air to keep the idle stable - connector can be kloose or ther IAC or passage all full of crap. Then GM has had some failures in many models due to the PCM seeing a voltage drop in the ignition switch (actually the wires and connector in the column) that shuts the engine off. Often associated with blinker being on at the same time and only fix is replace that ignition switch (again not the key/tumbler). This last one is not common and only a real electrical guy has any hope of finding but the dealer should have seen info on this. If the other 2 fixes don't do it insist they replace the ign switch. Hope you are still under warranty. Post the final cure so all know please.
  • auto9999auto9999 Posts: 86
    Last few days, the heated seats of my 2000 Chevrolet Blazer are always on, regardless of the position of the switch. Is there an easy fix? (I know that the easiest fix would be to remove the fuse.)
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Cheap plastic switch and the back retainer clips all break. On my 99 LT I poped the side off and added a nylon twist tie to hold it in place - but also pulled the fuse under the hood in the block - its also for the lumbar so thats a personal choice but the switch was always getting turned on and in FL a might tooo warm for me!
  • auto9999auto9999 Posts: 86
    Hello, Repairdog. For some reason the heated seat problem fixed by itself. I will keep your advise for the future. Thank you very much for your advice.

    By the way, Host Mr_shiftright, I see too many threads and find it almost impossible to read a thread to obtain general information. I enjoyed reading this thread to forecast my future problems but I cannot now. Also there are so many threads that deal the same topic and the the number of topics is proliferating.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    Would this "view" be of any help.

    I got this by using the "browse by vehicle" drop down window on the left of this page.

    I'm not your host on this board, but I'm glad to help and I'm sure the regular host will as well, if you need more assistance.

    WE also have a "help" feature at the bottom of this page, and you can also e-mail any host by clicking on their name (preferable to posting navigating questions here).

    best

    MrShiftright
    Host Wandering Around
    Carspace.com
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Also there are so many threads ...

    We have moved away from the "single topic" model which resulted in many of our topics exploding into 10's of thousands of messages. That made it difficult for people to find what they needed. With the current "polytopic" model it should be easier to pin down the right topic but, as you point out, the topics do proliferate!

    I would ask everyone to search through the existing topics before creating a new one. The hosts try their best to avoid duplicate topics. In any case, those topics with one or two messages should trail off into obscurity while the more popular ones will remain near the top of the topic list.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    DUH! I told him about the "view" for searching but didn't include it.

    Okay here it is. Maybe this will be helpful

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef14c39!make=Chevrolet&model=Blaze- - r
  • auto9999auto9999 Posts: 86
    Thank you, Hosts Tidester and Mr_shiftright, for your prompt replies. Taking this opportunity, I would like to thank you for your nice work to run this very informative and enjoyable forum. I believe that many Blazer-lovers are feeling the same way.

    Regards,
    Auto9999
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    See post #2966 and see if that helps.
  • mporubcanmporubcan Posts: 2
    Have a 98 blazer with 280,000 miles.
    Recently. at steady speeds above 25 mph or so it with have a brief (< 1/2 sec) hesitation. This will happen every few seconds or so (not consistently). This hesitation is slight enough than even sometimes the passenger will not feel it. Generally the motor starts/idles and accelerates without issue. There are no trouble codes coming up. Any Ideas?????? Thanks!
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Nice going on 280k! Assume 2wd.
    At that mileage it could be a multitude of things but right off I'd look at the vac lines underhood drivers side for rot and follow to the reservior in the fender. Then check PCV and hoses. Clean the MAF sensor in the air intake. Then if the fuel pressure is in limits after an actual test and filter is new, I'd look at the throttle body if this is off the line pause - there is a throttle position sensor (TPS) and an idle air control (IAC) sensor so that requires pulling the throttle body off and cleaning it. That IAC often sticks and air seat all crapped up and you get the engine doing a slight rpm quiver or actually dies then instant restart - IAC is controlled by the PCM for mixture and thus idle rpm. Assumes good cap/rotor (Delco or Standard Motors Product not cheapos), plugs and wires, and a clean air filter. This is a small list to start with. The injection system could have a dirty or sticking poppet but that usually gets a rough or intermittant idle shake and you feel that on accel and most oftem get the code for a misfire.
  • bgdobrobgdobro Posts: 1
    repairdog this is for you, had my 95 in for oil line replacement, and inquired about lower intake manifold leakage as this unit has 184k miles and it appears that most of the trouble in this area rears up at about 100k miles. Repair tech said that I had the old type paper gasket which was much less prone to leakage. It would appear that this was a very early 95 as it was a manufactures lease vehicle; does this fit with your experience in this area.
  • Ok... OEM stereo cd and speakers in my 1998 Jimmy. I was playing Metallica really loud but only so loud that it wouldn't sound distorted. The driver side rear speaker stopped working and the driver side front tweeter stopped working. All other speakers work fine. is there a crossover for the component setup? if so where is it? Or is that not the problem? I don't have time to figure this one out... but i do know it's not the speakers... tested them and they work fine. Help :(
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Sounds right as 94-95 had a torque of like 36 lbs while the 96 and newer went to 11 lbs! If you torque the newer one higher the block can distort so I'd guess a block redesign about then - 4.3 went thru many changes and theres 10 pages on differences. Keep it running! Thanks.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    First upgrade to any of these is all 4 new speakers - the stock unit sounds pretty good then and for another $150 you can get the newer aftermarket unit with aux inputs for ipods. All 4 speakers are 6.5" and all the majors have the GM connector so they connect without cutting wires. The rears actually are heard more than the fronts by the driver. The stock unit commonly only loses the CD drive in total.
  • cairnscairns Posts: 4
    I have a 96 Jimmy and the wipers are doing just that, thank you for the tip. Excellent
    Regards Ron
  • eagleeyeseagleeyes Posts: 1
    I had a similar problem. I could not shift out of park unless I removed the boot and used the manual override and shifted.

    I just talked to the mechanic and he is saying that it is the stop light has failed and prevents me from shifting as a safety precaution.

    Anyone heard this one before?

    Thanks...
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    2 parts to that switch - one for brake lights other tells system you are stepping on the brake so let them shift. Manual has the clutch safety switch.
  • jmbeazjmbeaz Posts: 5
    Looks to be electrical problem, but where? Battery, alternator, starter all good. When I turn the key the dashboard does not show warning lights. Cranks but it will not start. I tried to talk to the computer, but it will not respond. What can the problem be?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Could be many things but the 97 only model has a known defective ignition switch (really the wiring and harness in the steering column) and that can cause any of the things you stated so sorry, thats #1 to do.
  • jmbeazjmbeaz Posts: 5
    Another web site meantioned the crank sensor. Could that cause this, and where is it?
  • ovilaovila Posts: 2
    My son is working on a Jimmy 4-wheel drive they said it was a 87 and they are replacing the starter but they are having to pull off alot of things whats the easiest way to get it off? They didn't think that they would have to take so much off. I do not know nothing lse about it just the year sorry I know that doesn't help much but asking for help? :shades:
  • ovilaovila Posts: 2
    Okay well my son told me wrong it's a starter replacment for a 1987 nissan Pathfinder they are having a hard time taking everything off it to replace the starter. Please help
  • jmbeazjmbeaz Posts: 5
    Ok, located the ignition switch. How do I get it out? I have the steering column cover off, but can not seem to get the steering wheel off, so I can get to the top of the switch. Also do I need to pull the wire for the Air Bag, or is pulling the fuse and disconnecting the battery enough?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Assumre you are doing the wiring and connector called the ign switch and yes pull the fuse to the airbags before messing in there and then you remove the airbag to get in there. Many steps and torx screws both normal and reverse. Do a www search and a few sites give detailed instructions on this but can't list other sites here - rules.
  • 20blazer0020blazer00 Posts: 28
    Hi Im having trouble with my remote. I have to get right up on the driver door before the remote will attempt to unlock/lock doors. Ive changed the battery, but didnt change a thing. Also some times it wont unlock the doors unless I push lock first, then push unlock. And for some reason it wont honk or the lights wont flash when you loch or unlock it. Hope some one can help.
  • I just replaced the intake manifold gasket and ignition in my 98 chevy blazer, right after I decided to change the oil and give it a tune up, the only difference from any other day is instead of using 10w30 or 40 like i normally use, i decided to go with the 5w30 as displayed on the top of the oil cap, it was a hot day, so i skipped the spark plugs and what not.

    the next day, i get up and go to work, and its running fine, my wife calls and lets me know that she needs to go to the grocery store, so i go to our house and get my freind to hop in with me so he can bring the blazer back to the house. On the way back to the jobsite,

    while passing a car i lost pretty much every bit of performance I had. When we got back to the site, i opened the hood and noticed a knocking from within the engine, also there was smoke coming out from where the oil stick goes in. I tell my freind to take it back to the house, and park it and ill see whats wrong with it later.

    When I get home, its knocking horribly, Im suspecting a loose rocker arm or a thrown rod, but I'm not sure, at any rate, im not a mechanic, so my father and everyones telling me to just buy another car, I dont want to, I love this blazer, its been ragged out and traveling for over a year and a half since i bought it, only needing tune ups. But im now driving a 96 honda accord, i hate it, its NOTHING compare to my blazer(ive been driving it for a week, and ive already had to replace the valve cover gaskets). and the guy who sold it to me told me hed take my blazer for only $500......I'll rot in hell before I give this thing away, much less for just $500(its the best car ive ever owned in my life, its treated me nice, so im attached to it.)

    Theres also a sort of squeling sound when i crank it now, almost like a belt or something. I cant get my uncles diagnostic machine to work, for some reason, it doesnt get any power, I want to know whats wrong, and how much/how in general to fix it.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Get another on ebay for $15 just match the #s on it - yours is probably worn out, contacts or loose connections - happens.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Don't know the mileage, but if you did the lower intake hope you torqued the bolts to 11 ft lbs and NOT 35 as the 95 and earlier require or GM bulletin states the block will distort and the crank moves so yes, could be rod knock if you used the higer torque.

    If not, is the distributor in correctly and not off 1 tooth or they run like crap. Did you get all the plug wires in the right order as the drivers side coming out the cap is not in order but 3-1-5 (printed on cap).
  • It was the intake on the top of the motor, it was leaking water like crazy before because the gasket hit the dirt, i mislead, but I didnt fix it myself, my uncles a mechanic, and he did it for me. So as far as the torque for the bolts, i have no idea. I've had the same distributor, and wires for the past year, but, It does kind of stumble(read: like its choking) on acceleration and sometimes it'll blowback out of the exhaust,but after running it for 30 mins-an hour, it doesnt do that usually. Ive fixed numerous things about that, but nothing ever worked, and since the diagnostics machine wont get power from the hook-up, kind of screwed on that problem. My only leads were an O2 sensor somewhere out of the three.

    I dont know the mileage, either. Ever since I bought it the odometers been blacked out. So Ive never really known how many miles it has on it.
  • 20blazer0020blazer00 Posts: 28
    On my 2000 LS, the air starts out cold, but will start to flick between warm and cold. I have the normal a/c head in dash. not a climate, just the one with 3 knobs, one for speedm one for temp, and last for selection
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Check the vac line under hood drivers side last in teh line is plastic so see if all the rubber ones are OK 5/32". Then you can pull the glove box open all the way (bend the left side flap so box swings out) and look up at teh diverter thats vac and see if line OK there to.
  • 20blazer0020blazer00 Posts: 28
    Ok, I have a prob, I dont know if its been covered or not.
    But here goes.
    For some reason, my Blazer (2000), will blow hard through all gears, and when you need more speed. I think someone said they came with a high output speed fan. But, it shouldnt be blowing like this, through all gears. And Its like its laboring, when it blows hard too. Then a few times, it will act right ( no blowing,or laboring and it runs like a top).Has anybody incountered this? ( I do know for a fact they they are not supposed to act like this. Seeing I work for a rental car company, where we had tons of Blazers and they might start that way, but,after shifting into 2nd, they quiten down)
  • singramsingram Posts: 2
    I am having a few problems with my 2004 chevy blazer and I am hoping someone will be able to help me. My first problem is that I need to know what tool is needed to remove the drain plug from the radiator. I am also experiencing less than normal oil pressure and rpm's at idle. Does anyone know what problems could cause these symptoms?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    I think you mean the radiator fan so sounds like the fan clutch is frozen on - it show free wheel when cooler and harder rpms.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Turns 1/4 turn thats all - plug has slots in the radiator housing that it rotates in - try a pair of larger pliers thru the pass side wheel well by lifing up the rubber splash guard - its cheap plastic so be careful.

    As for rpms at idle could be many things such as idle air control valve on throttle body, dirty sensor, fuel filter, air filter etc. Oil pressure runs 20-60 lbs and a good filter helps. Rps are also controlled by the PCM based on sensor inputs.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    yeah be careful with those plugs. You can often drain the radiator by letting the engine cool down and pulling the lower radiator hose.
  • 20blazer0020blazer00 Posts: 28
    Ok Ill check that, but would that bog down the engine through all gears? any thing else I need to check also?
    The temp guage never gets over the middle line (200 or is it 210?)But I do know it doesnt take long at all to get there from cold, like 3-5 mins, from cold. And when cold it also, the first time u put it in drive, it hesitates, 2 or 3 times then will drive normal. Worse when a/c is on.
  • bmath72bmath72 Posts: 4
    I have a 95 GMC Jimmy 4WD. This is my first front end suspension rebuild. New bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. I'm having a problem pressing out the bushings from the lower control arms. The lower control arm has 2 different size bushings! Nobody told me! The parts guy at AutoZone sold me what his computer said to do. Is there a simple way to press out these darn bushings? This 1 day job is turning into an open ended affair.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Easy way is take to the shop with a hydralic press and presto out - but its the weekend so use a socket that just fits within the bushing A-arm opening and beat it out correctly supporting the base so you don't get hurt.
Sign In or Register to comment.