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Comments
I purchased in Jan 07. (39,000 miles)
Its been back to the dealer 4 times for stalling.
I'm just driving down the road and its shuts off.
I still have power but the engine quits.
so for all that has been done is (replaced)
the distributer cap and roater,the coil and something attached to it. They can't figure it out. I don't get any
check engine lites. Im pritty sure the problem is electrical,but who knows. Can anyone help this is driving me crazy.
By the way, Host Mr_shiftright, I see too many threads and find it almost impossible to read a thread to obtain general information. I enjoyed reading this thread to forecast my future problems but I cannot now. Also there are so many threads that deal the same topic and the the number of topics is proliferating.
I got this by using the "browse by vehicle" drop down window on the left of this page.
I'm not your host on this board, but I'm glad to help and I'm sure the regular host will as well, if you need more assistance.
WE also have a "help" feature at the bottom of this page, and you can also e-mail any host by clicking on their name (preferable to posting navigating questions here).
best
MrShiftright
Host Wandering Around
Carspace.com
We have moved away from the "single topic" model which resulted in many of our topics exploding into 10's of thousands of messages. That made it difficult for people to find what they needed. With the current "polytopic" model it should be easier to pin down the right topic but, as you point out, the topics do proliferate!
I would ask everyone to search through the existing topics before creating a new one. The hosts try their best to avoid duplicate topics. In any case, those topics with one or two messages should trail off into obscurity while the more popular ones will remain near the top of the topic list.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Okay here it is. Maybe this will be helpful
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef14c39!make=Chevrolet&model=Blaze- - r
Regards,
Auto9999
Recently. at steady speeds above 25 mph or so it with have a brief (< 1/2 sec) hesitation. This will happen every few seconds or so (not consistently). This hesitation is slight enough than even sometimes the passenger will not feel it. Generally the motor starts/idles and accelerates without issue. There are no trouble codes coming up. Any Ideas?????? Thanks!
At that mileage it could be a multitude of things but right off I'd look at the vac lines underhood drivers side for rot and follow to the reservior in the fender. Then check PCV and hoses. Clean the MAF sensor in the air intake. Then if the fuel pressure is in limits after an actual test and filter is new, I'd look at the throttle body if this is off the line pause - there is a throttle position sensor (TPS) and an idle air control (IAC) sensor so that requires pulling the throttle body off and cleaning it. That IAC often sticks and air seat all crapped up and you get the engine doing a slight rpm quiver or actually dies then instant restart - IAC is controlled by the PCM for mixture and thus idle rpm. Assumes good cap/rotor (Delco or Standard Motors Product not cheapos), plugs and wires, and a clean air filter. This is a small list to start with. The injection system could have a dirty or sticking poppet but that usually gets a rough or intermittant idle shake and you feel that on accel and most oftem get the code for a misfire.
Regards Ron
I just talked to the mechanic and he is saying that it is the stop light has failed and prevents me from shifting as a safety precaution.
Anyone heard this one before?
Thanks...
the next day, i get up and go to work, and its running fine, my wife calls and lets me know that she needs to go to the grocery store, so i go to our house and get my freind to hop in with me so he can bring the blazer back to the house. On the way back to the jobsite,
while passing a car i lost pretty much every bit of performance I had. When we got back to the site, i opened the hood and noticed a knocking from within the engine, also there was smoke coming out from where the oil stick goes in. I tell my freind to take it back to the house, and park it and ill see whats wrong with it later.
When I get home, its knocking horribly, Im suspecting a loose rocker arm or a thrown rod, but I'm not sure, at any rate, im not a mechanic, so my father and everyones telling me to just buy another car, I dont want to, I love this blazer, its been ragged out and traveling for over a year and a half since i bought it, only needing tune ups. But im now driving a 96 honda accord, i hate it, its NOTHING compare to my blazer(ive been driving it for a week, and ive already had to replace the valve cover gaskets). and the guy who sold it to me told me hed take my blazer for only $500......I'll rot in hell before I give this thing away, much less for just $500(its the best car ive ever owned in my life, its treated me nice, so im attached to it.)
Theres also a sort of squeling sound when i crank it now, almost like a belt or something. I cant get my uncles diagnostic machine to work, for some reason, it doesnt get any power, I want to know whats wrong, and how much/how in general to fix it.
If not, is the distributor in correctly and not off 1 tooth or they run like crap. Did you get all the plug wires in the right order as the drivers side coming out the cap is not in order but 3-1-5 (printed on cap).
I dont know the mileage, either. Ever since I bought it the odometers been blacked out. So Ive never really known how many miles it has on it.
But here goes.
For some reason, my Blazer (2000), will blow hard through all gears, and when you need more speed. I think someone said they came with a high output speed fan. But, it shouldnt be blowing like this, through all gears. And Its like its laboring, when it blows hard too. Then a few times, it will act right ( no blowing,or laboring and it runs like a top).Has anybody incountered this? ( I do know for a fact they they are not supposed to act like this. Seeing I work for a rental car company, where we had tons of Blazers and they might start that way, but,after shifting into 2nd, they quiten down)
As for rpms at idle could be many things such as idle air control valve on throttle body, dirty sensor, fuel filter, air filter etc. Oil pressure runs 20-60 lbs and a good filter helps. Rps are also controlled by the PCM based on sensor inputs.
The temp guage never gets over the middle line (200 or is it 210?)But I do know it doesnt take long at all to get there from cold, like 3-5 mins, from cold. And when cold it also, the first time u put it in drive, it hesitates, 2 or 3 times then will drive normal. Worse when a/c is on.