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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • I read the threads for the 4WD Problems but am still wondering if disconnecting a vacum line will work and if so where is it located, can anyone help, thank you
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    98up vac goes from the intake and Ts off to reservior and down to actuator under the battery tray. Disconnect the one running across the rear of the intake and going down to the actuator and see if the front coupler releases/disengages. For older models there is also vac to a switch on top of the transfer case.
  • FYI, I have a 98 Blazer and had the same problem, stuck in 4HI. It turned out that there is a seal between the transfer case and the transmission. With age it began to leak transmission fluid into the transfer case. What brought it to my attention was, once the transfer case got too full of trans. fluid it pushed the fluid out of the transfer case breather tube and then it started smoking from running onto the exhaust manifold. The breather tube for the transfer case is attached to the trans. dip stick tube. I know I'm taking along time to get to the point, but there is a switch for the 4 wheel drive in the transfer case that shorted out from transmission fluid once the transfer case got full. It cost me $225.00 to have the new seal installed and have the transmission serviced. Once they drain the excess fluid from the transfer case and away from the switch in the transfer case everything went back to normal. One thing I would suggest first is to check your transmission fluid level. If it's low you might have the same problem I had.
  • onidiionidii Posts: 1
    have a 98 Jimmy.... and have have most of the problems that i see here on this site ... but here are two that i have wuestions about.. the serpentine belt has a part under the alt. that makes a ticking sound sound is like a ticking noise.. not exactly sure what it is .. secondly .. a rattling under the car .... i was told it was the catalytic converter and not a heat shield .. nothing seems to be loose .. what i was told is the converterer is loose inside... any ideas??
    car has over 250,000 kms on it
  • jimavejimave Posts: 4
    But where can I find what controls the cold idle and acceleration as there is no choke or fast idle screw. The thermostat is new and reads correctly. Once warm it runs pretty descent and gets good mileage on the highway.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    The tensioner pulley is below teh Alt and the plastic pulley can be replaced separately or as a whole unit. Next to teh alt is the idler pulley fixed that also can make noise so to be sure remove the belt and spin teh pulley and listen and feel for play in teh bearing. Remember that the alternator also can be the source as it has a front and rear bearing. Water pumps and AC can also be a source so listen away.
    The cat conv has an external heat shied that is often the rattle source - also could be inside so hit/tap it with a rubber hammer and see - could be a muffler with the internal buffles failed, or a hanger, or an O2 sensor rattle so listen and tap the pipe front to rear to really pinpoint. With that mileage and a Blazer could be from a hundred places!
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Do a general www search on Blazer and tbi and you'll find lots. Mine are all newer injected ones but I do recall that the TBI has an air idle solenoid and has to have a temp sensor to control the cold mixture so would look there. Check that the vac lines not rotted out and the fuel and air filters are clean too. No codes or SES light on or if so get the codes. Cap/rotor and plugs as well as wires are good too? Could effect.
  • jimavejimave Posts: 4
    Thank, I'll look into it, yes, there are no codes and cap, rotor, plugs, wires, air and fuel filter are all changed.
  • grosloupgrosloup Posts: 239
    Last night I was driving normally and my 1994 blazer suddenly stopped. Everything dead. Couldn't even start it with a boost at all, everything was completely gone. What the hell could of happened? Help please.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Could be many things but if the jump didn't even allow it to turn the starter over I'd look at a completely dead battery and the alternator. Also check the battery post/side terminals and clean them or replace if required. Pull the battery and recharge it then get a free load and charging system test. Cables and wiring also may have to be looked at. If it turns over and does not start look at the fuel pressure and the pump. Thats only a few ideas.
  • grosloupgrosloup Posts: 239
    Thanks for the advice. I'll try that. Could be the fuel pump cause they installed a new battery 8 months ago. I'll start be checking the battery anyway. I'm following your advice step by step. Thanks again repairdog. I'll keep you in touch.
  • grosloupgrosloup Posts: 239
    I did exactly what you said. First of all all my efforts to try to start it drained the batterie so had to recharge it then "yes" it was the fuel pump the big problem. A total of 850$ You sure know your stuff repairdog. Don't stop helping others on this forum we need fellows like you.
    Thanks again.
  • I have a 2003 TrailBlazer and in the last 4 months I have noticed a Clanking noise that has developed from the bottom rear chasis area. I first thought it could have been a loose spare tire in the under chasis, but that isn't it. I took it into a Chevy dealership today, they say it's the rear Stablelizer suspension bar that is going out and both need to be replace at $310.

    Any one have any answers or suggestions, what it could be?

    I want to like this car but I have already had other unrelated problems with this Blazer and I am getting frustrated.
  • My 98 blazer has had this hesitation for months. Its been put on diagnostic machines at 2 different garages. Both times I was told it needed new plugs/wires and cap/rotor..Both times these were replaced. The "service engine" light remains on and the stutter returns after just a couple of weeks. Anyone have any solutions or ideas. Im completely stumped.
  • I have a 93cpi vort it runs fine but if I shut it off it will not start for about 45 min. It has been slowly getting worse over the past 5 months.From other forums it sounds like it could be the (cpi unit,Fuel presser regulator) Has anyone had this problem and did doing work to the cpi fix the problem.Also if it is the presser reg is it worth fixing the whole cpi kit fuel lines ect.Any help on this would be awesome!!!!
  • Hello,

    I am in the market for a well-used GMC JIMMY. I found one with 220,000 miles on it and the owner is willing to sell it for $400.00. The truck was a one owner. I drove it and engaged the 4WD on wet pavement. It engaged, but seemed to vibrate and resist, however it did drive and I was going about 30 mph. The owner said that it was just the fact that the 4WD was engaged when there wasn't snow on the ground. He explained that all the tires are "fighting" for ground.

    My question is, should I be concerned with the vibration?

    Thanks for the reply!
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    If the rubber bushings are bad just buy them and replace them - this is the larger inline six Trailblazer and this forum is S-10 type.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    What is the code that sets the SES light? If a P0300 random cylinder misfire and the light sometimes flashes as you drive post back - several other things usually cause it.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Do it all at the same time and this assumes the fuel pressure from the pump is good.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Be concerned with why you want a 94 Blazer with 220k miles!!
    That is a money pit - remember this later and you better be a good mechanic! The whole drivetrain is probably pretty loose and the bearings, CV axles, diff, transfer etc may have lots of wear so hard to say. But if you drive and you go slowly straight ahead it should not hop until you turn and then the front vs rear may hop alittle. Vibration could be many things and most probably is on this.
  • Go with MOOG... Unbreakable. Check out website Federal-mogul.com
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Look at the dates - 6 year old post so ....
  • yes, I was told that it is a random misfire code. Since this last time I replaced the plugs and cap/rotor the check engine light did go off. It stayed off for a few days but has since came back on. Then it went off again for a day or so. But the stutter (which went away after the replacement) has returned and it gets worse every day.
  • hello i have a 91 s10 blazer no one can help me i hope you can. it run great and idles at stop lights but when i stop at a store or any place and turn it off it will not start back up it turns over and wont start if i let it sit 2 hours or so and try it it fires right up and can drive it till i turn it off again i have no clue what it is can any one help me
  • guestguest Posts: 770
    Which engine in it the 4.3 or 2.8 and injection type?
    If the 2.8 they had a choke problem that caused this. Could also be a coil overheating due to the ign module not shutting the voltage completely off. Let me know details.
  • IT IS A 4.3 2 weel driver fule injection i was told to check the fule pump so i replased it changer plug wiers cap roter next is fule pump if that dont work to elemate fule problums it is now doing something new dieing when i stop at red lights not all the time thow so i did the above
    it runs grate other then that
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Here's the info on possible problem I pulled from an eariler post:

    Leaking CPI regulator and hoses/fuel lines (called a nut kit by GM) under the upper intake manifold. You can remove the IMTV (Intake Manifold Tuning Valve) from intake manifold. Once the IMTV unit is removed, visually inspect the inside of intake manifold. The manifold and injector unit should be very carboned up and dirty. Any clean areas indicate a fuel leak internal to the manifold plenum. Most times this is caused by the fuel pressure regulator leaking fuel from vent hole in the regulator body. Other factors may be present (such as a cracked inlet fuel line) but usually the regulator unit has failed. If no leak is detected through the IMTV hole, but a faulty unit is still suspected then you must pull the upper plenum to get a full view of the inside of the intake.

    CPI was used until 96 when the newer spider type injection was introduced that has its own problems. Good luck.
  • ok, here goes when I get into my 2001 blazer and before I put the keys any where near the igition I am able to press on the brake pedal and all of the power in the truck turns on, the radio the dash everything. Then, when I go to turn the car off if I keep my foot on the brake pedal and turn the keys to off and take tem out as long as I have my foot on the pedal the car stays running until I take my foot off of the brake pedal. Now noone that I have talk to has ever ever heard of this can anyone help before I have to take it to someone that is going to charge me and arm and leg for to fix it. :confuse:
  • volvol Posts: 1
    2004 4wd 18k miles has heavy vibration on hard acceleration.seem to be in the front vibration stops when you
    take your foot off the accelerator. trans shifts smmoth. would
    appreciate any help vol
  • My car was excessively cranking in the morning on cold start and sometimes would stall at light. Took it in to have it looked at said it needed a tuneup and spider injectors were leaking. Finally changed the battery and things seem ok. Voltage on alternator output when car idling seems high at 14.7 volts. Is that too high and does that mean my voltage regulator is shot. If so, is there anyway to check that?

    Thanks,

    Tim
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Normal voltage for an alternator. As for the hard start if its still there check the fuel pressure and see if (for 96up) its 60 psi key on engine off to fire the injectors cold and then turn the key off and see if the pressure holds within a few lbs. Diff for earlier models.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Make sure the 4wd is off and the front pass side axle not engaged or in Auto 4wd (4th button on autotrac systems). Then could be many things but with such low miles... Check trans and front diff fluid levels, look under at CV axle boots for rips, U-joints, brakes hanging up/slides not greased, and the list goes on so you have to work to narrow the location down and exactly when it occurs.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Only switch on the brake pedal is the brake light and cruise deactivate so see if you have a short in the switch or cut wire - you should be able to unplug that switch and see if that solves it but do NOT leave it that way or no brake lihgts and the cruise will not kick off applying your brakes. Only thing I can think of.
  • I have a 1995 Chev Blazer, I love her but have had problems since I got it... Last Sept., she just died after running great. It ended up being the fuel pump.Since i Don't drive in the winter here in Labrador.. Got the work done this spring. Replaced that and did a full overhaul of it. $ 1600.00 and 3 months later, in Sept again,after running superbly all summer, problems again. After a run, in which there was no problems, tried to start it to do an errand, and again the shivering and vibrating. Then it would stall out at turns, then it stalled out where ever, having to press the gas to get her going. I just left it in the drive, since we have no garage in town. Everyone seems to have an opinion.But the computer reading is not reading anything so it can't be much...or so they say.. I have decided to trade it in but need to get it fixed to do so..Any ideas? :cry: :confuse: :sick:
  • steverstever Posts: 52,457
    Check out the Idle or Stalling Problems - All Vehicles discussion for more ideas while waiting for Blazer specific comments in here. How's your gas quality up there (Happy Valley or ?). Fuel filter changed with the pump?
  • Check the posts on CPI and nut kit - thats the fuel pressure reg and lines under the upper intake that often leak or fail and cause similar problems and the posts tell how to look.
  • ckk4ckk4 Posts: 13
    Does anyone know the bolt torque specs for the upper and lower ball joints on a 1997 Blazer? I believe there are the four attachment bolts and one cotter-pin nut torque I'm looking for. Thanks in advance!
  • Hi, I have a 1990 s10 Blazer that won't start. Looked and saw no gas coming out of TBI's, so I did a pressure test. No pressure. Can't hear the fuel pump hum when I turn the key. As I just recently replaced the fuel pump, I'm suspicious it may be something else. I've hunted like crazy and can't find the test wire to energize the fuel pump. I can find the relay easily, but no test terminal.

    Anybody know where the test wire is located? Your help is greatly appreciated.
  • guestguest Posts: 770
    Per Haynes:
    lower 79 ft-lbs
    upper 61 ft-lbs
    Thats for 4wd (and 2wd 95up)
  • Red wire connector under hood by the Power brakes shown in the Haynes manual. Also check the ECM Batt fuse and the ECM ign fuse. You already said the relay was good - make sure. Fuel pressure is KOEO at 9-13 psi.
  • OK,OK,so I went back to Posts from 2000-2005 trying to learn about my"92" Jimmy 4X4 4.3L(Z) Vin. I need advice as to doing my own Maint. @ 150,000 Mi.Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • Thanks for replying. I've found a red wire (with a black stripe) leaving the relay, but it enters a conduit with all the other wires and does not emerge again that I can find. Checked the Haynes manual again. Only picture I have is for a CPI model.

    Here's a bit more info on my Blazer I forgot to include: 4.3L v6 engine with model 220 TBI. I've not tested the relay. Fuses are both good.

    Any idea where the test connector is? Or, can I patch into the red wire coming from the fuel relay?

    Thanks again.
  • See reply to your same post other title.
  • My TBI diagram is for 94s but the red wire feeds/bypasses the relay, ie relay not activated. Autozone has online wiring diagrams that may help you also for new and older models Blazers.
  • I got a 97 GMC Jimmy and was wondering about a few things with it. :confuse:

    First off, my passenger tire on the inside seems to be coupling i think it's called. It was low on air so i put some air in it. It doesn't seem to be doing it anymore, or if it is, it doesn't seem to be wearing the tread away as fast. What would cause it to do that if anyone knows?

    Second, I've been blowing though the fuel pretty fast lately. What should i start to look at for cleaning or replacing to get a handle on this problem. A full tank of gas costs me 46 bucks and i only get close to 300 kms off of it. :mad:

    If anyone could help me find some answers to my problems it'd be very helpful.

    Thank you
    Chris in saskatoon
  • Alignment, worn steering or hubs, tire balance, with the lower pressure would be common areas to look at. Inflate to 35 psi and rotate the tires and check above items. The 4wds all wear out the lower ball joints early - usually by 80k miles/128k km. As for mileage, how many miles/km since a major tuneup (cap/rotor/wires/plugs) and a clean air filter? by 100k miles/160k km these are due. In the air intake also clean the MAF sensor with a spray cleaner (MAF/electronic/or brake work but NO carb due to residue) and that may help. This all assumes you aren't running at 85mph always down those roads and then you would be getting around 15mpg.
  • Hello, thanks for the reply. Alignment is out of wack, i'll switch around the tires and fill them up a little more. I'll try fixing those so far and go from there i guess.

    As for the tune up part, no major tuneup has been done on the truck. When i bought it i was told she was all cleaned up and tuned up and ready to rock. I think all they did was change the oil to tell you the truth. I've only owned it for 3 months, if that. But it's nice to know what to start with to improve the gas consumption.

    Thanks for your reply, very helpful.
  • Just checked up some of the easy parts there. Was wondering a few things.

    First off, should my coolent be up to at least the cold line? Or for this winter, should it be up to the hot? Power steering was good, brake fluid was good, air filter is very dirty, spark plugs and wires well have to wait to next payday regardless if there dirty or not, these things have a pcv filter or not? Never found it but well look into that. I started that far and got a far ways to go i know.

    Shes got over 200 thousand k on it. I got it only because of my credit situation, but it doesn't leak a drop of oil or burn, runs perfect until it got really poor gas, but all in all has been very good to me. Perfect inside and out and when the time comes the place where i got it from well finance me for any and all repairs which is another thing thats very helpful.
  • Keep the coolant up to the hot line when cold - yes Dex cool and air do not mix well and should be changed every 3 years and a new Stant cap used as well as a new thermostat to keep you at 195 degrees F. PCV is on the drivers side valve cover behind the air intake - silver color in the rubber grommet with the black hose on top. Don't forget the fuel filter under the frame about under drivers seat too.
  • Ok, got ya, coolant up to snuff. Have yet to get the cap and thermostat, but everything else is covered and so far everythings working out great. Got great gas milage, coolant is working out sort of. O ya the fuel filter still needed. Would get those rest of the idems but stores closed.

    Repair dog thanks for all of your help, it's but the most helpful. I am getting most things covered, but money always comes into the picture.
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