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What kind/brand pads are you using? How long did the vehicle sit before you took delivery of it? How many miles are on the vehicle?
I would advise you to replace all rubber brake lines... if they have not already been changed... Why??? Because if it is made out of rubber... change it every ten years. I have experienced brake lines failing on the INSIDE... (no visible sign)... and causing damage and the need for replacing many parts in the brake system downstream of the line itself.
On the brake pads do yourself a favor use Bendix or the best quality pad Advance Auto parts has to offer I don’t recommend the ceramics good braking characteristics but leaves a lot of gray dust on the wheels.
I have a 96 Blazer... I can tell you just about everything there is to know about what they need as I have done just about everything to it since owning it.
TJ
The advantage of semi-metallic pads is that they last longer than ceramic and are more fade resistant for better high speed stopping power. The disavantage is they wear the rotors faster, are noisy and creat a lot of oily black brake dust. I have alsways used AC Delco ceramic pads on my 1991 S10 Blazer 4x4. Ceramic brake pads are quiet and do not create rusty-black brake dust that sticks to your wheels, however, they do create a small amount of brake dust but it is not black and it does not stick to the wheels. Ceramic brake pads dampen noise, have good fade resistance and are easy on your rotors, but they wear faster than semi-metallic pads.
I will install Bendix CT 3 ceramic brake pads next time. I like Bendix CT 3 ceramic pads because I feel like they are just as good as the more expensive AC Delco ceramic brake pads. The use of quiet ceramic pads requires that I must replace them more often but I do not have to replace the rotors.
I have used Thermo-quiet... .and they are very good. Currently I am using Advance Auto ceramic pads. I have 222220.0 miles on my Blazer. To this date... I have never had to change rotors... not even close to needing changed.
When a vehicle sits for a long period of time... (over six months), the brakes are going to need some service...
What I really don’t know... and what I can not know... is exactly... what the noise sounds like. That would help a lot... and your mechanic... if he is good... should be able to tell by the sound... what the problem is. Vibration can cause a squeaking noise. Where the mounting tabs on the pads compresses with channel locks when installed... if not... they are riding loose and could vibrate.
From time to time... my rear brakes will squeak... when I am leaving the driveway in the morning... (not warmed up yet)... Once they warm up... no more noise... About every six months... I check the rear shoes... (Bendix... they last forever)... usually have to change the front pads twice for every one time I change the rear shoes. During a checkup... I will take some sand paper... 100 grit... and knock the glaze off the shoes... I will then put a large container under the wheel... and use the hose to spray everything clean... then dry with compressed air... or sidewalk blower. Then I check all my lube points.
What about the rubber brake lines? Where they ever changed? If not... you are running on borrowed time... They will fail... had it happen... they collapsed on the inside... the fluid could not release pressure on the rear wheel cylinders... the brakes stayed engaged... and I burned up both rear drums... shoes... wheel cylinders... and the seals overheated.
The single rear axle hose had failed... (it cost about 15.00)... but it cost me a lot more to replace everything else. Rubber is good for about ten years... Also... what kind of brake fluid are you running? I would go with the Valvaline Synthetic...
Let me know what happens...
Rather than trust a buch of crooks at a auto repair shop, I personally replaced my entie brake system, including a new combination valve, master cylinder, new hoses, pads, front brake rotors, front pads, rear shoes and rear brake drums. It took about 5 hours to do all that but it took me and my associate about 10 hours to bleed the brakes with new brake fluid. That was before I found out I needed to use a Tech 1 scan tool to cycle and bleed the ABS modulator before I could bleed the rest of the system. It is nearly inpossible to bleed the 1986 - 1995 version of ABS brakes by foot pumping if you don't have a Tech 1 scan tool. Auto repair shops don't have a Tech 1 scan tool because those things cost from $800 to $1500 and a shop will not invest that much money in a tool that they may only use once a year. They just tell a customer with a 1986-1995 S10 Blazer..."Take it somewhere else".
I will see in my lifetime when automobile technology will put all the independent auto repair shops out of business. Who will be able to afford to repair or maintain an automobile that is out of dealer warranty??
I had the same problem ...It was the fuel pressure regulator
Check the cap for corrosion, but if it hasn't been replaced in a few years, it's probably time.
When the cap fails, the vehicle won't start. It might seem like it wants to start but won't. Plug wires last for a long time, but if they are bad, just as a bad distributor cap, they can work on and off.
If you've tried starting fluid one time and that didn't work, go for the cap. If you get it running and you get very high idle, email me and I'll explain what happened to me.
Rick
My concern... I noticed smoke... coming out the back... during hard acceleration the other NIGHT... from onramp getting on the interstate. Changed 60K miles ago Wires-AC Delco, Plugs- Bosch Titanium, Cap/Rotor-Jacobs Electronics but has aluminum contacts changing out this weekend for AutoZone Gold Set with brass contacts $59.99. Searched the internet... best deal I could find.
Thank you in advance for any info on this subject.
TJ
As far as white smoke coming out of the exhaust on acceleration, that indicates worn valve seals. That has always been a sore spot with Chevrolet S10 Blazers. Those seals usually only last about 30,000 miles before a puff of white smoke starts appearing out the tailpipe on start up. It will continue to get worse until the plugs start to foul and reaches the point that you will have to switch to AC Delco CR45TS spark plugs which are a higher heat range. After long periods of idleing (high vacuum) the white smnoke is at its worst when accelerating.
Black smoke indicates the fuel injectors eeds to be cleaned. Use Chevron/Texaco or Shell gasoline with Techron. Techron works wonders for fuel injection systems and in-tank fuel pumps.
The coil probably doesn't have any thing to do with the smoke. Blue or Gray smoke is usually oil getting past the rings and burning with the gas. Black smoke is usually over-rich with fuel.
Another possibility is the transmission overheating (fatal) which will boil out the fluid and it lands on the exhaust pipe, leaving a trail of white or gray smoke.
Good Luck.
Again... thank you.
The coil... is mounted exteral of the distributor on a bracket attached to the intake. I will take your advice and change it... just as a matter of pricipal... and having 225K on it... but I will do the wires first... as they are the weak link in the ignition system.
I did not know about the heat sink grease... thank you... I was using die electric when I changed out ignition modules... still on the OEM one as well. I have a used back up... tested and ready to go.
I have not seen any smoke since I changed the dist cap and rotor... but not 100% sure I have done any hard acceleration... I will do so... before changing testing and changing wires this weekend and let you know.
Also... I have used AmsOil Synthetics in this vehicle since I purchased it... used... with 80K... and all original plugs, wires, cap and rotor which I ended up changing at 110K miles.
That's all for now...
TJ
Silicone di-electric heat sink grease comes in the package with a new ICM (Ignition Control Module) but don't use it. Look up "di-electric" in the dictionary and it means "insulator" . You do not want a grease that is an insulator on a heat sink. The purpose of a heat sink is to "conduct" heat away from a electronic device so that is why you should use Arctic Silver 5 heat sink paste on the ICM heat sink. . The only reasons silicone grease is recommended for the ICM heat sink is because it will not run out when it gets hot and it prevents corrosion. Always use new mounting screws when you install a ICM because the OE screws are probably corroded. The ICM is grounded through one of those mounting screws which passes through a brass sleeve in the ICM. Excessive heat and a poor ground due to corrosion will rapidly degrade an ICM .
I use an Accel ICM because they send a longer electronic square wave to increase ignition coil dwell time to the ECM which gives the coil higher voltage saturation. An new AC Delco ignition coil is compatible with the Accel ICM. I have heard bad things about AC Delco Ignition Control Modules (ICM) but I suspect that rumor is from people who are using aftermarket high output ignition coils with a OE distributor and ICM. An AC Delco ICM cannot handle the draw of a high output ignition coil.
Use an AC Delco ignition coil or good brand of replacement coil such as NAPA or Standard Motor products if "MADE IN MEXICO" bothers you. IMO, you should avoid Wells (Autozone) ignition and electronic products and they are "MADE IN USA". Wells Electronics made the Norden bomb sight during WW 2 and that device was not accurate.
When I have the ac on the clutch will spin intermentianly every few seconds. sounds a little metallic when it kicks in, like a slight scrap of dry metal. Not sure if it is working or trying to cycle on.
Is the ac clutch suppose to spin constantly when the ac is on?
Going to try a new relay first but any help would be appreciated before I waste money on a new compressor
I would try bypassing the cycle switch and see if it gets colder if so they are $9.99 at autozone http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Santech-A-C-Switch/_/N-91t6l?itemIdentifi- er=175014&_requestid=455251
to by bypass it unplug it and out a jumper wire to it and see it the a/c gets colder
Did I screw up?
Did I screw up?
The ACDelco plugs I used are great... I have more performance... not that it was bad before... just forgot how good it really can be.
I ohmed the wires... ACDelco 7.0mm... all are below 3.0... and they have over 100k on them. I also looks like my mpg is going back up to where it should be... I use to get 300 plus miles on the trip between fill ups... that being around 13 gallons... as I fill up when it is down to 1/4 tank.
I am getting the Arctic Silver 5 heat sink paste... not sure where yet... I will try Advance Auto first... then go to the electronic parts stores.
I want to run it for another full tank... then I replace the coil with an ACDelco one from Advance.
Smoke from hard acceleration is gone.
more later...
I am now using Denso "TT" Double-Platinum PTF20TT spark plugs (made in Japan) at $3.25 each and am more satisfied than ever. I am going to avoid the AC Delco off-shore tomfoolery. The Denso "TT" (twin-terminal) PTF20TT are pre-gapped at .040" and are the highest quality spark plugs I have used. My associate has a 2010 Corvette C6 Z06 and it came from the factory equipped with Denso spark plugs. Go figure.
TJ
The ECM uses voltage inputs from several sensors to determine how much fuel to give the engine. The fuel is delivered under several modes which are controlled by the ECM.
The modes are:
Starting Mode:
ECM turns on fuel pump relay for two seconds to allow pump to build up pressure.
Clear Flood Mode
If the engine floods, it can be cleared by pushing the accelerator pedal all the way down. ECM pulses the injectors to a 20:1 air/fuel ratio and holds it as long as the throttle is wide open and engine speed is less than 600 RPM. Returns to starting mode when TPS is below 80% throttle.
Run Mode:
Open loop - ECM ignores O2 sensor signal
Closed loop - ECM calculates Air/Fuel ratio based on O2 sensor signal for a 14.7:1 A/F ratio
Acceleration Mode:
TPS input, MAP (or MAF) inputs signals ECM to provide extra fuel.
Deceleration Mode
TPS input signals ECM to cut off fuel.
Battery Correction Mode:
ECM compensates for low battery voltage
Fuel Cut Off Mode:
Igniton off- ECM cuts off fuel to prevent dieseling and flooding.
ECM cuts off fuel at high RPM to prevent engine damage.
Thanks!
-ken
The worst thing is that their trade in value is horrible so I essentially have to hold off on trading it in until it is totally paid off.
I have a 1991 S10 Blazer LT 4x4 in mint condition with 160,000 miles on it. I insatlled a freshly rebuilt engine last year with performance upgrades and it runs better than it did when the SUV was new. I am the second owner. My daughter bought it new in Bremerton Washington in 1991 and gave it to me two years ago after she got married. Everything works including the cruise control! I will never trade it or sell it because the trade in or resale value is less than $2000.
I have had a full service auto repair shop tell me their "computer is down" in order to avoid performing a state (Texas) inspection on my S10 Blazer. Apparently, the shop assumed the ABS 4WAL brakes would not pass inspection and they did not have a GM Tech 1 scan tool that is needed to bleed the ABS modulator. I NEVER take my S10 Blazer 4x4 to a auto repair shop except for the annual state inspection. If I cannot perform the repair or maintenance myself, I call upon a qualified technician that I found on Craig's List. He can do anything I need done for 1/3 the price that a repair shop would charge. He works in my garage and he will let me watch him do the work and will let me furnish top quality parts.
Never take any of your vechicles to an auto repair shop, especially those in a large metropolitan area!!!
Thank you for you help in advance... TJ
If I am remembering the 02 model correctly....
If Automatic -
Allow time for the engine to heat to operating temperature.And keep engine running.
Locate the transmission dipstick in back of the engine near the passenger side of the vehicle.
Take the dipstick out of the transmission fluid well and fill untill desired level is reached.
If its a Manual (xtreme model)
Then you need to find the fill hold on top of the tranny on the passanger side i believe
Trying to find a part number for the metal shims that go between the front wheel speed sensor for the abs and wheel hub. The shims adjust the high of the sensor so it does not interfer with the reluctor ring inside the hub.
The part looks just like a soda pull tab. It is also one of the biggest causes of the abs activating a low speeds when they rust changing the gap on each tire.
Called 4 chevy dealers and had no idea. Was not in the diagram. Rather not have to buy a new hub, it is only two years old with 7,000 miles on it. The sensors themselves do not come with them.
Any ideas on a substitute would be appreciated, may just try to cut some out of a sheet of metal.
GM has problem with fuel pumps. I was told from dealer.
Near the firewall on the passenger side should be a small tube rising up near the throttle body. It is no more than 1 inch in diameter and has a small cap.
Any insights? My boyfriend and I are expecting and would really like to fix this problem so I'll have a reliable car to cart the peanut around in.. He's very capable and willing to look into any suggestions you might have. Great with troubleshooting, just needs to know where to start the search!
Should I get a transmission flush? Do you think it's a connector issue? I'm really hoping it's not my transmission that needs replacing!
This kind of hard shifting is almost always due to the line pressure in the transmission being too high. There are several possible causes. The PCM computer is supposed to regulate the pressure based on the driving conditions. For example, more pressure for high RPM shifts, less pressure for slow speed shifts. so it could be a computer issue or a pressure regulator valve issue, or something else.
I think your first step should be to take it to a local (not chain) transmission shop for a filter and fluid change. Ask them to read the codes associated with the trans. Then you will have some knowledge of what to do next.
The design life of these transmissions is 70,000 miles, to last through the 50,000 mile warranty period and then a little more, so be prepared since you are already into the third life.
good luck.