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rozubo -I just picked up an SR5. I think the sunroof is a must. Without it, the multiple sunglass holders are a bit awkward looking. There is nothing better than the natural light and air provided by the sunroof.
JKL
JKL
Enjoy that wonderful beast.
Just as big an effect even on a dark rainy days.
TRy it for yourself on a test drive of opening and closing shade. Also there are those magical 70 degree days and you're tooling down a shade dappled twisty backroad when you let the air in and....
cheers
When the truck was in 4x4 mode, it got worse gas mileage and greater discrepancy with the computer's reading. My opinion is to never trust computer results without verying them first.
Seqlady, thanks for a well written report. Glad you had a good trip.
BTW, someone asked what the 2 ticks you hear after the vehicle goes into Drive is: These are the vehicle self-checks for the VSC and the A-TRACS, and are described in the Toyota Manual. Check it out...
After driving up and down a bumpy dirt road for 2 days, I finally located the problem. As you face the dash, there are two vertical steel members located behind the radio and center A/C controls that support the dashboard from the floor. The radio and amplifier are mounted to these supports. Without removing anything, I could reach behind the left side front of the center console and create this "clicking" noise by holding the outer console with my left palm and squeezing the vertical steel frame piece with my fingers. However, I believe the center console will have to be removed to fix it. It's not too difficult to remove, but probably better left to the toyota service department.
Anyhow, the problem area is: There is a piece of framework mounted at the floor level (actually on the "hump"). This square frame is attached by four 12mm bolts and supports what appears to be an electrical junction box or some type of electronic device(s).It is centrally located between the two vertical dash supports. Anyhow, the back left edge (toward the engine)of this frame was rubbing against the back edge of the left hand vertical dash support. To fix it, I simply inserted a small screwdriver between the two parts and spread them apart a bit.
On another issue, the gas needle on my Sequoia never quite reaches the top white "full" mark when the tank is full, and has been very erratic and sometimes indicating I have much less fuel than I know to be in the tank. Also, when it reaches 1/4 tank or less, after turning the engine off for a while, on re-start the gas light comes on for up to five minutes before the needle moves off empty. Has anyone else seen or heard about this or related problems? Cliffy1, you appear to be the resident expert. Have you heard of anything like this before? I think the float in my tank is sticking, but not sure - could be the gauge itself I guess.
Has anyone had a good experience with a dealer in or near Louisville, Ky? The dealers I've encountered are either inexperienced (ie, they say that the SR5 doesn't come with leather as an option and that the cars can't be ordered from Toyota...)or they are still trying to sell at MSRP or above on the '01 models.
Any thoughts are appreciated.
Fiery
Steve
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Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
This weekend, I was on 495 heading toward's 90 (Mass Pike). At 70-75 MPH, in the middle lane, heard a loud Bang, and what sounded like sand scraping... it was, as you guessed, the tire. I pulled over, and by the time I got out of the Seq, the left rear (ie. driver's side) was totally flat.
Got the jack and stuff out, dropped the spare, and loosened the lugs. Trying to find the lift point was interesting, not sure if I did find it, but got the tire off the ground via the rear axle, looks like the lift point, not sure it was the proper one.
Changed the tire. I have Dunlop AT21 Grand Trek P265/70R15 tires on there, run then about 40 PSIG. Just me in the car (all of 170 lbs), plus light luggage.
Just glad it didn't take the front tire out. Surprisingly, the Seq was very controllable, able to get the tire changed after I figured out the jack, and lift points. I have been working on cars since I was a little guy, and changing a tire is the first thing I learned.
Now have to see if they are going to scrap the tire. I had 5200 miles on the tires (and truck). Dunlop's don't carry a roadharzard, only a manufacturing warranty. If you run over something, they don't have to replace it for you.
JKL
Maybe you can educate me a bit. These latch points (called ISO-FIX?), can they be used with any car seat or are they meant for a new generation of car seats that have some sort of special attachment feature? Do they supplement or replace the need for a seat belt attachment?
As always, thanks in advance.
There are only a couple of seats with the LATCH (ISO-Fix) attachments. There is one by COSCO and one by Fisher-Price. The car makers are ahead of the seat makers!
The reason for implementing the LATCH system is to make it straightforward enough for more people to install the seat in the same safe way. There are studies that have found upwards of 80% of all car seats are installed incorrectly in some way, usually too loose or using the wrong kind of belt. If you read your seat manual very closely, it is almost impossible to meet all the requirements of the old style seat.
I have heard good things about the two dealers recommeded and have contacted Greentree Toyota in Jeffersonville, In. twice in the past 2 1/2 weeks. The Manager there "misplaced" our number after our initial conversation, and hasn't gotten back to us after our follow up call 3 days ago. We don't mind driving and will try Kings Toyota along with the "Blast Fax" route Steve recommended. (Thank you, Steve for that idea!)
Are the Sequoia's selling that quickly here or is a loaded 4x2 SR5 an unusual request? Should we just wait for the 02' inventory build up? We are open to either an 01 or 02.
We are open to any other ideas, too. The Lincoln/Mercury Dealer has been very professional in his follow up, too bad we are not interested in the Mountaineer.
A google.com search will turn up additional internet savvy dealers, and the SUV can be delivered to you from about anywhere.
But if you find the rig you want sitting on the lot nearby, a fax can do the trick and save a lot of hassle and time.
Am I back-pedaling too fast?
Steve
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Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Many dealerships look at fax bids different than e-mail requests for prices. They assume you are not savvy enough to find their web site or send an e-mail. They also know that they have little chance of every meeting you so they choose to mess with you. Beyond outright lies, they will do things like "forget" to add for certain options. For instance, if you ask for a Sequoia with the moonroof, and alloy wheels, the dealer should know that you also want the typical equipment such as the whole AH package, rear AC and roof rack. Instead of quoting a real vehicle, they will quote only those options you want while knowing that they can't get you the exact one they just quoted.
They do this for only one reason: To get you in the door and negotiating. That is the entire objective. They figure they have a much better shot at "closing" you if you are in their showroom. Whatever it takes to get you sitting in the office is considered fair game.
If I left the car business and wanted to get the "best" deal (which I maintain is not always the best price), I would select the car I wanted, find a dealer and a salesman who treated me with respect and stick with them to find a mutually beneficial price. I wouldn't grind them for the last dollar as long as they treated me in a manner that I was comfortable with. I may pay a couple hundred more, but I would maintain my dignity.
Steve
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Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
The Sequoia also provides top-tether attach-points for all rear seat positions. The curious part is that that for each rear seating position, the top-tether is mounted to the bottom back of the seat, except for the middle left seat, the attachment point is on the floor, which is a little harder to access. Although this is not a big issue, it would be more convenient to have it installed on the seat bottom.
Note: When using the LATCH system, you do not need to use the seat belts to secure the car seat. When using LATCH and the top-tether, the car seat is very secure and does not budge.
If you are looking for new car seats, I highly recommend the Fisher Price SEII.
I'll give ya'll a real world example of finding the right dealership. My dad lives in Northern CA and has a Toyota store 2 miles from his house. He can't stand them. They are "old school" in the worst way. It is so bad, for his last car, he flew to VA to buy one from me and drove it 2800 miles home rather than deal with their garbage.
He was in a town 45 miles from his house recently and stopped by their Toyota store. He ran into some very friendly and honorable people. He spent a fair amount of time talking to them. They provided him with some information that he called me to confirm. They were 100% honest with him. He paid $500 over invoice for a 2001 Camry. He could have beat them down for another few hundred bucks but didn't bother. He was just so happy to find an honest dealer that he was glad to let them make a few bucks. From start to finish, they didn't pressure him, nor lie to him.
It took some looking, but the good dealers do exist. By doing business with them, you reward good business practices and encourage a departure from the games that we all complain about.
However, my husband and I both noticed that the Sequoia seemed to "float" around at 70 mph (i.e. felt like it drifted a lot and you had to really stay on top of your steering). We have both driven a Ford Explorer (granted, a smaller vehicle) for years and never noticed this sensation with it. The wind, transfer truck drafts, etc. seem to have a very strong influence on the vehicle. Frankly, this feeling of drifting easily made the vehicle seem a little unsafe??? Has anyone else had this sensation?
Good luck. Hope you don't get the same cold shoulder and lack of response I have received for bringing up problem(s).
It's a shame that some who are obviously financially tied to Toyota have created an environment of so much biasness toward the positives of this vehicle and Toyota as a company, (and an obvious unwillingness to discuss the negatives) it has stifled the candid, open, and objective communication needed on this site.
One of my main interests in the LATCH or ISOFIX systems is whether or not the seat is easier to install. I feel that I am able to securely install my current car seats using the belts, but I dread ever having to take the car seats out and reinstalling them. It is definitely a pain putting them back in. Does the LATCH system make reinstallation painless or is it still a little bit of work? I have not yet seen a LATCH car seat in person, so I have never seen the actual locking mechanism.
Thanks in advance.
The LATCH buckles on the Fisher Price SEII look just like the buckle for the top-tether. Per a previous post, there are currently only two car seats that have LATCH attachments - both have a similar buckle system. The LATCH system also is supposed to support a "rigid" attachment system - which may allow faster installs. My guess is that these seats should be introduced sometime next year, when all baby car seats will require LATCH.
According to Edmunds, the Sequoia is "Structurally identical to the Tundra from the front doors forward." Although the Tundra did pretty well in the IIHS test, it didn't fair so well in the NHTSA tests (3 stars frontal ratings on both sides).
Anyone have thoughts about how this would apply to the Sequoia?
Thanks in advance.
The way Toyota Motors handle this is that they allow dealer allocations to pretty well dry up (allocate far fewer cars) while they start the build process of the new models, making things slim pickings for a few weeks while new cars are coming. I think that it really is a comfort level issue for you about the timing. If this is a gift, you don't want to be caught with no present at the birthday time, so acting in advance to gather information and make good decisions is the right thing for you to do based on your criteria.
Afire
Watch out for the supply and demand factor on the Sequoia right now. A buyer stating that this is a 2001 and will be an old unit in a month or so may be correct as long as no one else is wanting to buy the vehicle you are wanting. The dealer needs to look at the Sequoia right now as I only have "X" many left and the 2002 will not be out until "X" and I do not need to "give away" the last few because no other dealers will have any in a couple of weeks and then mine will demand a premium.
We are famous for having Sequoia and Crusier invoice sales from time to time that people from different regions fly in and drive away in with no strings attached but if the regulars on this board will tell you we have not done that in the past couple of months and I do not expect any changes in our pricing until the 2002 arrive. You probably will not see invoice on a Sequoia for a while until the 2002 are flowing and dealers are confident that they can sell one at a smaller profit level and still have 20 more on the lot.
As a last thought that may make you feel better! I know that there are a lot of dealers like myself that look at profit as profit and it is hard to tell someone that I am not interested in someone's business because of a few dollars. When you are ready go down or call your local dealer and tell them you are interested in "X" at "X" over invoice and start enjoying your Sequoia. It really can be that easy. Honesty and understanding from a buyer will get far better results from me then someone acting like a fool.