I noticed that odor when I first accelerated on the freeway after picking up my Sequoia in Carson CA. I initially assumed that it came from the oil refineries nearby but later realized that it comes from the car. I also relate it to acceleration with the rear window down, hence the fume access to the occupants. I talked with some toyota sales and service folks about it but they didn't have any ideas. The best that I can figure is that the ammonia may form in the exhaust/smog stream by design to have the nitrogen combine with hydrogen rather than oxygen. The result would be annoying Ammonia rather than the polluting NOX compounds. All vehicles spew extra during acceleration but this on is an ultra-low emission vehicle so the excess "stuff" needs to be accounted for in some other manner than oxides of nitrogen. No basis in fact--just a possible explanation.
Other problems experienced on my initial ride last May:
Ticking noise-- turned out to be loose CD cases
Front seat belt cover/trim off--not resolved but I figured that the trim pieces are designed for placing on the hex head when it is in a certain position or else the trim "gripper tabs" don't align and grip properly. Mine are off now but the dealer will work those over (probably with the silicone solution posted here).
Left rear seat belt catches in non-slip position after break is released--need to fix at dealer. Right now the only solution is to remove seat belt, retract and relatch.
Other than that, the car is great. Our next car will have to be a Prius to balance our gas consumption.
BTW--my 92 Toyota 4 WD PU just had a checkup at 175k. Still 5mm on front brakes and 6 mm on rear brakes--both original (as is the clutch).
I must have missed the leather discussion. If approximately 33% of the leather is fake is it still appropriate to clean it with leather cleaner? Does anyone have any suggestions on what type of cleaner/protector is best? I am new to this leather stuff but the leather interior stays surprisingly comfortable in warm/hot weather here in Sacramento. I wish I would have tried this type of interior long ago...
I have had my Sequoia for about a year now. When I was comparison shopping prior to buying I test drove all of the competitors. Recently on a business trip I rented a top of the line GMC Yukon (not XL)for 2 days just to satisfy my curiosity and to see if I had any regrets about my decision. The short answer is no. I believe the Sequoia to be a better overall vehicle. The trucks are different. I would say the Sequoia feels smooth and refined, while the Yukon feels a bit unpolished and rough around the edges with maybe a bit more spunk. Here are some observations/comments about the differences between the two (in no particular order): -The Sequoia seemed much bigger inside. This was the case everywhere but especially noticeable in the 3rd seat and rear cargo area. -the 3rd row seats slide back and forth in the Sequoia but not in the Yukon. This is a great feature on the Sequoia and really helps with cargo capacity if you leave 3rd row seats in. -the front seats seemed to be much more comfortable in the Yukon. A bit of a disclaimer here-my Sequoia is an SR5 with cloth seats while the Yukon was heated leather so maybe a bit of an unfair comparison. -someone had commented a while back that the steering wheel is off center (to the right of the dash)on the Yukon. I found that hard to believe but it is in fact off center and feels a bit weird. By the end of the day I was used to it but the steering wheel always felt too large to me. -the parking brake on the Yukon was so high up, my knee was almost in my chest trying to apply it. Not sure if design flaw or just my particular vehicle (7500 km's on it). -the engine (5.3) on the Yukon did seem to have more low end grunt than my Sequoia but didn't seem "faster" overall. So I would give the nod to the Yukon for power. The Sequoia is however a much smoother and quieter engine. This is really noticeable at idle as well where you can feel the engine vibrate in the Yukon while the Sequoia is nearly silent. My choice for real world day to day driving would be the Sequoia. -the interior of the Yukon seemed a little cheaper than the Sequoia. It felt more plasticky and the switches didn't have the nice solid feel of the Sequoia. -I think the stereo was superior on the Yukon. I base this mostly on the fact the Yukon clearly has a subwoofer for the bass. -I prefer the Sequoia for outward visibility. Seemed much better out front and not as many blind spots in the rear. -for one of the most important things-the ride-I found the Sequoia superior. The Yukon seemed to "buck" over bumps similar to what my Ford Explorer used to do. I don't get any of that bucking in my dat to day driving in the Seqoia. Is this possibly a price you pay for higher towing capacity? I would choose a vehicle based on my 95% non-towing. So while the Yukon is a fine vehicle I prefer the Sequoia and this confirmed I made the right choice for me. I encourage anyone shopping to try all of the vehicles properly before buying. If you have any specific questions about my experience please post.
714cut: Your comparison of the Yukon to a Sequoia was a fair and balanced report. I wonder how your report would have read if you were comparing to an XL, particularly as it relates to the space issues. Also given the price of a fully loaded Sequoia, I wonder how the comparison of a Denali XL or even a Denali would have fared in your assessment since the prices of the vehicles might have been closer. The Denali XL's interior finish, power, and handling (Autoride) would have shown it to be a superior vehicle to a regular Yukon and yet similar in price to the Sequoia.
No flames needed, just an honest assessment of a fair comparison that might not have been equal in price. My idea of fair pricing is not retail but out the door pricing which for the GM products is a substantial advantage over the Toyota products.
Fair comments and questions. If comparing the Yukon XL the comparison would have been different. I consider the XL to be a not quite direct competitor. I also test drove Yukon XL prior to purchasing Sequoia. I think the dynamics of the XL are different. It might ride better but gives up some manoueverability. It is physically larger than Sequoia and obviously has more cargo capacity. However the driver space seemed to be the same as a regular Yukon, that is not as spacious as a Sequoia. Also the XL gives up some performance due to size and weight. It is slower than the Yukon. The Yukon I tested was actually more expensive than my Sequoia but did have more "toys". Here in Canada a Denali is quite a bit more than a fully loaded Limited. Also with a Limited you get 6 disc changer, heated leather seats etc. so the Yukon loses some advantages. From what I read the Denali is an excellent choice but you're certainly paying a premium (here in Canada).
714cut: I'm curious what the difference in price is in your area between a Sequoia and a Denali XL. I paid $42.5K for a Denali XL and many fully loaded Sequoia's in my area seem to be at or above $42.5K, that's why I thought it was more reasonable to compare the Sequoia to a Denali than a Yukon based on price.
For the record the Sequoia is about 5" longer than a Yukon and 15" shorter than an XL. However the XL weighs less than a Sequoia (5224 vs 5300lbs) and has the identical turning radius at 42.3ft although the wheelbase on the XL is 12" longer. So maneuverability should be comparable with the XL. Performance between an XL and a Yukon are nearly identical as the XL only weighs 100lbs more than a Yukon. The performance is even greater in a Denali (320hp) which adds 45 more hp than a Yukon but some of that power is lost in the AWD.
I agree with your assessment on the parking brake which seems like it was just an afterthought in its placement in the GM. The steering wheel in my 2001 Denali XL is dead on center. I doubt your rental had GM's computer controlled Autoride which is standard on the Denali and a must have suspension package in the Yukon. Makes a huge difference in the ride that should be experienced. It is a very worthwhile option.
I am surprised about your perception of space in the driver seat of the two vehicles since the head and leg dimensions are identical to a Sequoia and the shoulder and hip measurements are both 3" larger in the Yukon and the Yukon XL. Could the space impression been a result of your greater familiarity with the Sequoia?
FYI a loaded Limited Sequoia is about $58000. A Yukon Denali is $62500 and a Yukon Denali XL is just over $65000 (all in Canadian dollars obviously). That's a fairly big difference in price. I'm not commenting on value, just on the potential $7000 difference. While your stats on curb weight are correct, the Yukon Denali weighs 5525 lbs. while the Yukon Denali XL weighs 5734 lbs. My guess is that minor horsepower increase with an extra 600 lbs.(over the Yukon) will result in worse performance. Regarding space in the front, we both know stats are sometimes not as relevant as design and ergonomics. My perception is simply an opinion on space. Maybe it is even the seating position? Regarding maneuverability, that 15 inches is significant, even with a good turning radius. To be honest, I've never even driven a Denali. It's a great looking vehicle with good reviews. My original comparison was trying to compare apples to apples whenever possible. Thanks for your comments.
Two additional comments pertaining to posts on this board: 1. The arm rests are almost identical on both vehicles. I know there were negative comments about how narrow they are. 2. There were also negative comments about the black box by the passengers feet. I believe it is to do with the HVAC. That box is actually a little more obtrusive in the Yukon.
Is it just me or do others think that the color options on the Sequoia Limited are really poor? The options for the SR5 are average at best, but has anyone heard of offering some of them on the Limited? I'm suprised that there is no "Blue" offered on the Limited.
Has anyone had any problems with their Sequoia not starting? I went out to go somewhere after driving my car earlier in the day and it wouldn't start. I had it towed the the dealer and they claim it has desiel fuel in it. But I know it doesn't unless the gas station where I last got my gas mixed it in with the regular gas. Anyway we are having the gas tested by the state department. The battery is good and tries to start the car but it just doesn't turn the engine over and the engine light comes on. Was wondering if anyone has had this problem and what caused it so I can give the mechanics a little insight.
I've had my 2002 SR5 for two weeks now. After driving an 11-year old Taurus station wagon with 165,000 miles, this is a dream car. At first, the size was daunting, but now I'm used to it and it actually does not feel too big. I drove into downtown Boston this past weekend and paralleled parked with no problem (I don't think I could have done that in a Suburban!). The drive is so smooth. This came with the burl wood dash w/ burl accents on all doors. The console is covered with the burl also --- very attractive. Annoying things: the clock -- the driver has to tilt his/her head to see it and if there is a cup in the cup holder, you don't see it. The engineer who came up with that should be fired. Also, the 2002 didn't come with a keyless remote -- it's an option this year!!!! I freaked. We were at the last stage of the sale process and the salesman said he'd get me the remote and he came back perplexed and said "Well, apprarently, this year's model (SR5) doesn't come with the remote." After taxes, and everything, the total was $38,000 and you're not giving me a remote. Well, I called Toyota and they quickly agreed to install one, no charge. I told them that the cheapest of cars come with remotes! OTher than those things, I love this car!
Dog71 - I was disappointed as well... I ordered a 2002 Limited and it's coming in later this month and went with Silver. Wanted the gold, but as you mentioned, only a few colors are offered in the Limited...
By the way, when I ordered the car, I agreed to pay a dealer $1,200 over invoice plus tags and tax, and not a penny more... The dealer agreed, but then the General Sales Manager tried to slip in a TDA charge (Toyota dealer advertising) for $767.
When I questioned this charge, she said that everyone has to pay this... Upon further investigation, I found another dealer in my area (that I now buying the car from) that agreed to the $1,200 over invoice without this TDA charge, thus, I walked from the first dealer...
Bottom line... everything is negotiable and some dealers will try to take advantage of niave consumers... Be careful when shopping!!!
Two days ago my 2001 limited 4x4 brake light started to illuminate periodically. My wife took the vehicle to the dealer today and they indicated that it was due low brake fluid as a result of brake wear. They added brake fluid and charged us $39 for the "diagnostics". It seems strange that they would charge for this given the vehicle has less 9200 miles and it has been in for two oil changes plus the 7500 mile service, plus some other warranty work. Opinions please--I know for a fact if it was my lexus it would have been no charge plus an apology for the trouble; with our Volvo there wouldn't have been a charge but we wouldn't have gotten the apology the lexus dealer would have provided. Overall I have been satisfied with the dealer service but this doesn't sit right with me-it is only $39 but it does bug me. If this is normal boy am I glad I bought the extended warranty. FYI per dealer front brakes 6.5 mm and rear 8 mm
can any one tell me it's easy to install the hood protector on my sequoia? I called the dealer, the factory hood protector costs $175, and they gave me for $150, but the labor costs another $110. I saw a tundra at car park with hood protector on, I watched closer, it found out it doesn't have any holes on the hood, instead it seems to be just clipped on. also cargo net is around $40, it's expensive?
I had the same problem! The brake warning light would come on but the VSC light would also come on. My first thought was the brake fluid but it was within the full and fill line, not all the way to the bottom. I filled it with fluid but the VSC light would not go out. I took it to the dealer to do some other work (change rear differential fluid) and told him of the problem. He said that the brake warning light was "sensitive" and will come on early. The VSC came on as a result of the low brake fluid. This light was stuck in the computer and had to be removed by the dealer. They did not charge me for any of this. However I am wondering where the fluid is going, I don't see it on the wheels or the ground?
I believe that in layman's terms, the brake fluid goes down as the brake pads wear down. As the pads get thinner, more fluid fits into the brake line, and that fluid comes from the reservoir. In a rig this size, there is a lot of brake line.
The fluid is not necessarily leaking out anywhere. I was told by my mechanic that I should not add brake fluid, because it is harder to tell when your pads wear out. However, I never had the brake light come on either.
this is respond to message #3727 by doeadr, apparently I have got the same deal for the 2002 sr5 sequoia with NO keyless entry. I called my dealer at putnam, they said my convenience package doesn't come with one, if I want it, it will costs me $340 for the set plus labour, plus tax of course. you said you called toyota and they quickly agreed to install one, no charge. did you call the dealer or actual toyota? do you still have the contact? I would like to get one for free...
doudoudig: I took possession of a loaded SR5 Sequoia at the end of August. I made sure I was aware of what I was not getting by loading up an SR5 instead of a Limited. I couldn't justify spending $3,000 for heated seats and retractable mirrors.
The 2001 CQ package included keyless entry in 2001. In 2002 the CQ package did not include keyless entry, but could be configured separately from the Factory. I wasn't made aware of this fact until I asked at delivery where the keyless remote was. I was pissed. I believe someone in Toyota made a serious mistake building loaded SR5s without the ala carte keyless included. I called Toyota, and several people at my dealership. It took just over a month, but I finally got the keyless system installed at no cost by the dealer. By now Toyota should have a policy for dealing with this. Perhaps they should also learn a lesson that certain features should be automatically included in a car that starts over $30,000 and easily can run at or above $40,000. Other than this seemingly trivial complaint in the grand scheme of things, I love this car.
Any of you guys test the X5? How did it compare to the Sequoia? I realize they are very different cars but I am interested in both. Any comments appreciated. Thanks.
first of all, thanks for responding to my message. I checked CQ for 2001 and 2002, they are $490 and $255 respectively. that's mean if toyota made a mistake building loaded SR5s without the ala carte keyless included. you saved yourself $250 for the keyless entry (and i'm sure you won't pay MSRP) also, according to my dealer(putnam toyota in redwood city), if you have to put it on afterward, it is not just $350 for a set, but a few more hundreds for the labour, oh, man...... should I keep pushing it or simply live without the keyless entry. but as you said a vehicle costs that much with no keyless entry is ridiculous.
I suggest you make sure you know what you are looking for before you shop. Those two machines are not even remotely close to comparable, except maybe in price. The BMW is a performance oriented machine with little off-road ability or towing capacity, fits five uncomfortably and very little cargo space. It drives like a car (better than quite a few at that).
The Sequoia (which I own), is much larger, takes much more effort to handle (large turning radius, etc.), but fits 6 adults and 2 children in carseats with ease. It can fit a ton of stuff in the rear, can tow a decent sized trailer, and has excellent off-road abilities. I bought it for the safety of my wife and infant.
All in all, they are two completely different experiences. I think you need to clarify to yourself what you are looking for before you buy. These two are worlds apart.
My 4x4 SR5 Sequoia just turned 14K miles. At about 12.5K miles the brake light came on and stayed on for ~1/2 hr of driving. (my guess was that it took some braking action to warm the fluid, expanding it until the light would go off). The level of the brake fluid was down slightly. At about 13K miles the brake light came on and stayed on longer and the VSC trac light and the VSC Off lights would both come on and stay on.
At 13.5K miles I replaced the front pads. Level returned to Max level and all lights went off. I'm estimating that the pads had about 3-5K miles remaining.
Anyway - the pads are easy to change and total cost was $35. Once the wheels are removed there are no tools required. Two retaining springs and two pins are easily removed by hand, the pads are pulled radially outward to remove. Slowly depress the pistons and slide in new pads. Anyone could do this. The fluid will return to normal level once the new(thicker) pads are inserted.
My 4X2 SR5 just turned 15k and NO brake problems, noise or lights have been noticed/found yet. Is this brake problem at < 15k more applicable to 4x4's or is it general ? Has anyone with 4x2's had to change their brake at < 15k miles ? I know brake wear has also to do with driving style and road types (in-town/highway/off-road/ ...), but clearly for such a heavy vehicle, having brake wear out at <15k seems a little early to me. Maybe bcos I am used to sedans with >40k miles of use per brake pads.
But I am curious to know if anyone with 4x2 and with < 15k miles have had to change their brake pads as well.
While driving to work today, I came up with another reason some people go through brake pads faster than others. I was driving behind a person with their brake lights on while they were accelerating. "Great, another two footed driver. I'll bet they complain about going through pads too quickly" I thought.
I know this may not answer all persons who eat pads for breakfast, but take a look at your driving habits. If you use your right foot on the gas and left on the brake, it is possible that you are riding your brakes more than you think. You may even have been able to do this with other vehicles in the past, but perhaps the seating position on the Sequoia rests your foot harder than you think on the brake.
When washing my Sequoia last week with our well water that is very hard and has a high lime content, I realized that the water spots that remained after rinsing and drying the vehicle would not come off. At first I thought it was just due to the humid weather and that the car was just not completely dry. Unfortunately, the spots remain and won't even come off the tinted windows on the side. Has anyone had this problem or can you suggest a fix? I do know that washing the car in the hot sun, particularly leaving the soap to dry in such conditions, can damage the paint, but the vehicle was washed in the shade. I would like to avoid having to take the vehicle to be buffed out and am not even sure this will correct the problem.
Evidently those clay bars will remove all contaminants including the hard water spots. I've never used one, but I hear they work well. Also try a good quality polish (Malms, Meguiars, Mothers, Zymol) not the wax but the polish. Most of these come in steps (polish then wax) and the polish should do the trick. If the polish by hand doesn't work then using the polish with an orbital polisher will do the job.
I know I'll sound like a car salesman when I tell you this, but there is one way I know of to prevent this. This will not remove what you already have (the clay bar trick will), but prevent further occurrences.
Most dealerships offer some form of environmental paint protection. In the Southeast, they offer the "Toyoguard" which includes the paint protection. This stuff actually does work to prevent acid rain damage and this is essentially what you have. Most dealerships charge between #400 to $500 for this and a large portion of that expense is the warranty which is normally 5 years.
I am sure that there are products you can buy to do the same thing. Wax will not work because wax melts at about 115 degrees. The surface of your vehicle will exceed this in the summer, especially a black vehicle. Find something with a teflon base.
To all of you Sequoia owners who have had your vehicle for at least 6 mths to a year, a simple question. WOULD YOU BUY THIS SAME SUV AGAIN??
If so, why, if not why not. I'm very close to buying but still on the fence. Also interested in the Acura MDX (yeah, yeah, I know, totally different vehicles, but what a ride).
I have had mine since April, and I would buy the same thing in a heartbeat. Obviously, this does not mean that it's perfect and I sure some other people who did not buy a SEQ would buy again what they already have. Test drive all the models that appeal to you and get opinions from owners, like you did. Good luck.
A clay bar is a detailing "compound", kinda like Silly Putty, that's supposed to remove junk on paint (like rail dust & bird & bug stuff). Lots of companies sell them now (Mothers, Meguires, etc.). You spray some slick stuff on the car and just rub the bar over the paint, and junk sticks to it. Then you knead the bar to expose a fresh surface. They do make the finish nice and smooth. Cost around $10 and up. Steve Host Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
gohabsgo: Although I only had my SEQ for a month, I would do it all over again, and get the same SEQ. Initially, I considered the ML320/430, QX4, Pathfinder, MDX, RX300, and Highlander. Eventually, I narrowed it down to the MDX vs Sequoia.
Prime considerations: waiting line for MDX's, selling at/near full MSRP vs having a Sequoia NOW at a reduced price. Further, I wanted some MASS around my family, as my wife was going to be the principal driver. My friend also ended his pursuits, deciding between the MDX & Seq. He chose the MDX.
Decide what your needs really are, prioritize them, and test drive each vehicle, back-to-back (if you can find an MDX). You'll know which one to choose after that.
i'm glad that you brought up this subject - sequoia vs MDX. I owned my sequoia for 2 months, there is not a day went by that I am not wishing that I have a right again to choose between two. i'm not saying I don't like sequoia. in fact my wife loves it, actually she is the one who drive it everyday. she is a big fan of landcrusier, and she think toyota make her dream come true by giving us a discount. also she think she pick a tougher car over a lady's car. anyway, i'm sure if I bought MDX, I will also think of sequoia. it's just that I picked sequoia for some silly reason. I was thinking of the same thing, toyota have a reduced price, but you need to pay mark up for MDX. but after I bought SEQ, I found out that you can pay MSRP for MDX. and toyota don't give you a better deal even they gave you invoice price, because they put a lot of thing in options, whereas for a basic MDX, you've got leather, sunroof.... so don't make my mistake, again i'm not saying sequoia is a mistake, i'm saying picking sequoia for price or even waiting time is a mistake. if this is a right vehicle for you, it'll worth the wait. so now let me comparing 2 vehicles. I think MDX has definitely had a better ride than sequoia, especially when it turns, it feels very tight and safe. but sequoia has much more room, try the middle seat, it's very comfortable comparing to MDX. third row seat of MDX is a joke, not even for kids, because you would not want to risk you child by seat so close to the back of the vechicle, unless yu hate him/her, but i have to admit that acura sounds better than toyota. for the look, it's very subjective, but most of the people when they saw me driving sequoia, they will say what a big car, whereas, people will look at MDX and say it's a nice SUV. so if you are a family of two, like us, may be you need to think, do you really need the room. but if you want a car that can sit more than five and ride comfortabely, sequoia is your choice, cos it rides very smooth and quietly...
We have had our Seq for about two months now, and we had examined them all, MDX, ML, HL, QX4, 4R, Pathy, etc. After driving them all, the wife felt strongly about the Seq, therefore we have it. The ML and MDX rode nicer, the QX/Pathy, HL, and 4Runner had no interior room once the carseat,stroller, pack-n-play etc were loaded in. When she lets me drive it, I am still impressed by the solid-feel of the body, the pretty smooth ride, and the relative level of quietness. We'd do it again in a heartbeat.
I just wanted to let you know that my Sequoia is running again. I did not have a fuel problem. The main ECU computer chip went out. It took the dealer serveral days before they figured out what was wrong. They replaced it and now I have my SUV back. But first I had to prove that there was no diesel fuel in the gas tank. The State came down and took a sample from my gas tank and the gas station where I purchased the gas. There were no contaminants in it. There is a definate discrimination when it comes to women buying vehicles and trying to get them serviced.
8 months and 7500 miles; the Beast is wonderful! We carry tons of people, dogs, bikes, you name it...just about the same MPG as my piece of junk Grand Cherokee. It's great for long trips and not too cumbersome for around-town errands like many of the other BIG SUV's. We love it. The only thing I regret is taking the car without running boards installed. I figured I could have them added later, but here on the East Coast it's impossible to get them. I've tried calling Toyota twice (useless) and the dealer has been no help. I think it would be easier to find Osama! Oh well, that giant step up is good exercise, right?
We just leased a 2002 Seq about a month ago. They quoted 56% for 24 mos., and 54% for 36 mos. In actuality, for 24 mos., our residual value was 60%. 15K miles per year. Undoubtedly, that reduced our monthly payment to the threshold that I was seeking. Hope this helps.
I see a lot of Ford Excursion and Expedition owners asking for more information about reverse warning systems, so I thought that the Sequoia owners may be interested too.
If you go through Toyota, there isn't a set residual percent. They take a percent of the BASE MSRP and then add for the options at a certain dollar amount. I gave up even trying to figure it out, because they give us a daily list of our inventory with total residual amounts. If you let me know the model (4x2 or 4x4) and the trim level and the MSRP, I'll see if I have something similar that I can look up the residual amount.
I bought my Sequoia without running boards as well. During the negotiation process when buying my SUV, the dealer kept changing the price from $599 to $899 for running boards. We had already done our research on the internet and found some for $225. Total with s/h and paint = ~$350. I've been happy with them and they really complete the look of the Sequoia. The company we purchased them from is called Prestigous Accessories.
These were the 2 vehicles we decided between as well... My wife will be driving this vehicle and we'll be replacing her 99 Honda CRV-EX (which she loves). However, we need more room due to a second child and large dog... so, time for a new car.
Loved the way the mdx drove and also the navigation system, but it wasn't THAT much bigger than our CRV, so, we opted for the Limited Sequoia which comes in the end of this month...
My advise would be the same as others have already said... Decide what your needs really are, prioritize them, and test drive each vehicle, back-to-back and make the right choice for you... Good luck!
I am buying another one. I've had my 2001 for a year now. I am awaiting delivery of 2002 within the next three weeks. The resell value was so high (with a broker) that I was able to upgrade virtually straight across. While I acknowledge this is rare and would not be possible in every case (mine also has only 9500 kilometres)I think it says a lot about the demand for Sequoias and for the typical Toyota resale value.
I didn't know you can get a broker to sell your car. do you know where can I find one? and do you mind telling us how much do you loose by selling it? (us$)
Comments
Other problems experienced on my initial ride last May:
Ticking noise-- turned out to be loose CD cases
Front seat belt cover/trim off--not resolved but I figured that the trim pieces are designed for placing on the hex head when it is in a certain position or else the trim "gripper tabs" don't align and grip properly. Mine are off now but the dealer will work those over (probably with the silicone solution posted here).
Left rear seat belt catches in non-slip position after break is released--need to fix at dealer. Right now the only solution is to remove seat belt, retract and relatch.
Other than that, the car is great. Our next car will have to be a Prius to balance our gas consumption.
BTW--my 92 Toyota 4 WD PU just had a checkup at 175k. Still 5mm on front brakes and 6 mm on rear brakes--both original (as is the clutch).
Recently on a business trip I rented a top of the line GMC Yukon (not XL)for 2 days just to satisfy my curiosity and to see if I had any regrets about my decision. The short answer is no. I believe the Sequoia to be a better overall vehicle. The trucks are different. I would say the Sequoia feels smooth and refined, while the Yukon feels a bit unpolished and rough around the edges with maybe a bit more spunk.
Here are some observations/comments about the differences between the two (in no particular order):
-The Sequoia seemed much bigger inside. This was the case everywhere but especially noticeable in the 3rd seat and rear cargo area.
-the 3rd row seats slide back and forth in the Sequoia but not in the Yukon. This is a great feature on the Sequoia and really helps with cargo capacity if you leave 3rd row seats in.
-the front seats seemed to be much more comfortable in the Yukon. A bit of a disclaimer here-my Sequoia is an SR5 with cloth seats while the Yukon was heated leather so maybe a bit of an unfair comparison.
-someone had commented a while back that the steering wheel is off center (to the right of the dash)on the Yukon. I found that hard to believe but it is in fact off center and feels a bit weird. By the end of the day I was used to it but the steering wheel always felt too large to me.
-the parking brake on the Yukon was so high up, my knee was almost in my chest trying to apply it. Not sure if design flaw or just my particular vehicle (7500 km's on it).
-the engine (5.3) on the Yukon did seem to have more low end grunt than my Sequoia but didn't seem "faster" overall. So I would give the nod to the Yukon for power. The Sequoia is however a much smoother and quieter engine. This is really noticeable at idle as well where you can feel the engine vibrate in the Yukon while the Sequoia is nearly silent. My choice for real world day to day driving would be the Sequoia.
-the interior of the Yukon seemed a little cheaper than the Sequoia. It felt more plasticky and the switches didn't have the nice solid feel of the Sequoia.
-I think the stereo was superior on the Yukon. I base this mostly on the fact the Yukon clearly has a subwoofer for the bass.
-I prefer the Sequoia for outward visibility. Seemed much better out front and not as many blind spots in the rear.
-for one of the most important things-the ride-I found the Sequoia superior. The Yukon seemed to "buck" over bumps similar to what my Ford Explorer used to do. I don't get any of that bucking in my dat to day driving in the Seqoia. Is this possibly a price you pay for higher towing capacity? I would choose a vehicle based on my 95% non-towing.
So while the Yukon is a fine vehicle I prefer the Sequoia and this confirmed I made the right choice for me.
I encourage anyone shopping to try all of the vehicles properly before buying. If you have any specific questions about my experience please post.
No flames needed, just an honest assessment of a fair comparison that might not have been equal in price. My idea of fair pricing is not retail but out the door pricing which for the GM products is a substantial advantage over the Toyota products.
If comparing the Yukon XL the comparison would have been different. I consider the XL to be a not quite direct competitor. I also test drove Yukon XL prior to purchasing Sequoia.
I think the dynamics of the XL are different. It might ride better but gives up some manoueverability. It is physically larger than Sequoia and obviously has more cargo capacity. However the driver space seemed to be the same as a regular Yukon, that is not as spacious as a Sequoia.
Also the XL gives up some performance due to size and weight. It is slower than the Yukon.
The Yukon I tested was actually more expensive than my Sequoia but did have more "toys".
Here in Canada a Denali is quite a bit more than a fully loaded Limited. Also with a Limited you get 6 disc changer, heated leather seats etc. so the Yukon loses some advantages.
From what I read the Denali is an excellent choice but you're certainly paying a premium (here in Canada).
For the record the Sequoia is about 5" longer than a Yukon and 15" shorter than an XL. However the XL weighs less than a Sequoia (5224 vs 5300lbs) and has the identical turning radius at 42.3ft although the wheelbase on the XL is 12" longer. So maneuverability should be comparable with the XL. Performance between an XL and a Yukon are nearly identical as the XL only weighs 100lbs more than a Yukon. The performance is even greater in a Denali (320hp) which adds 45 more hp than a Yukon but some of that power is lost in the AWD.
I agree with your assessment on the parking brake which seems like it was just an afterthought in its placement in the GM. The steering wheel in my 2001 Denali XL is dead on center. I doubt your rental had GM's computer controlled Autoride which is standard on the Denali and a must have suspension package in the Yukon. Makes a huge difference in the ride that should be experienced. It is a very worthwhile option.
I am surprised about your perception of space in the driver seat of the two vehicles since the head and leg dimensions are identical to a Sequoia and the shoulder and hip measurements are both 3" larger in the Yukon and the Yukon XL. Could the space impression been a result of your greater familiarity with the Sequoia?
While your stats on curb weight are correct, the Yukon Denali weighs 5525 lbs. while the Yukon Denali XL weighs 5734 lbs. My guess is that minor horsepower increase with an extra 600 lbs.(over the Yukon) will result in worse performance.
Regarding space in the front, we both know stats are sometimes not as relevant as design and ergonomics. My perception is simply an opinion on space. Maybe it is even the seating position?
Regarding maneuverability, that 15 inches is significant, even with a good turning radius.
To be honest, I've never even driven a Denali. It's a great looking vehicle with good reviews.
My original comparison was trying to compare apples to apples whenever possible.
Thanks for your comments.
1. The arm rests are almost identical on both vehicles. I know there were negative comments about how narrow they are.
2. There were also negative comments about the black box by the passengers feet. I believe it is to do with the HVAC. That box is actually a little more obtrusive in the Yukon.
By the way, when I ordered the car, I agreed to pay a dealer $1,200 over invoice plus tags and tax, and not a penny more... The dealer agreed, but then the General Sales Manager tried to slip in a TDA charge (Toyota dealer advertising) for $767.
When I questioned this charge, she said that everyone has to pay this... Upon further investigation, I found another dealer in my area (that I now buying the car from) that agreed to the $1,200 over invoice without this TDA charge, thus, I walked from the first dealer...
Bottom line... everything is negotiable and some dealers will try to take advantage of niave consumers... Be careful when shopping!!!
Thanks in advance,
thanks for the opinions
The fluid is not necessarily leaking out anywhere. I was told by my mechanic that I should not add brake fluid, because it is harder to tell when your pads wear out. However, I never had the brake light come on either.
I took possession of a loaded SR5 Sequoia at the end of August. I made sure I was aware of what I was not getting by loading up an SR5 instead of a Limited. I couldn't justify spending $3,000 for heated seats and retractable mirrors.
The 2001 CQ package included keyless entry in 2001. In 2002 the CQ package did not include keyless entry, but could be configured separately from the Factory. I wasn't made aware of this fact until I asked at delivery where the keyless remote was. I was pissed. I believe someone in Toyota made a serious mistake building loaded SR5s without the ala carte keyless included. I called Toyota, and several people at my dealership. It took just over a month, but I finally got the keyless system installed at no cost by the dealer. By now Toyota should have a policy for dealing with this. Perhaps they should also learn a lesson that certain features should be automatically included in a car that starts over $30,000 and easily can run at or above $40,000. Other than this seemingly trivial complaint in the grand scheme of things, I love this car.
Brad
first of all, thanks for responding to my message. I checked CQ for 2001 and 2002, they are $490 and $255 respectively. that's mean if toyota made a mistake building loaded SR5s without the ala carte keyless included. you saved yourself $250 for the keyless entry (and i'm sure you won't pay MSRP) also, according to my dealer(putnam toyota in redwood city), if you have to put it on afterward, it is not just $350 for a set, but a few more hundreds for the labour, oh, man...... should I keep pushing it or simply live without the keyless entry. but as you said a vehicle costs that much with no keyless entry is ridiculous.
The Sequoia (which I own), is much larger, takes much more effort to handle (large turning radius, etc.), but fits 6 adults and 2 children in carseats with ease. It can fit a ton of stuff in the rear, can tow a decent sized trailer, and has excellent off-road abilities. I bought it for the safety of my wife and infant.
All in all, they are two completely different experiences. I think you need to clarify to yourself what you are looking for before you buy. These two are worlds apart.
At 13.5K miles I replaced the front pads. Level returned to Max level and all lights went off. I'm estimating that the pads had about 3-5K miles remaining.
Anyway - the pads are easy to change and total cost was $35. Once the wheels are removed there are no tools required. Two retaining springs and two pins are easily removed by hand, the pads are pulled radially outward to remove. Slowly depress the pistons and slide in new pads. Anyone could do this. The fluid will return to normal level once the new(thicker) pads are inserted.
But I am curious to know if anyone with 4x2 and with < 15k miles have had to change their brake pads as well.
Txs
I know this may not answer all persons who eat pads for breakfast, but take a look at your driving habits. If you use your right foot on the gas and left on the brake, it is possible that you are riding your brakes more than you think. You may even have been able to do this with other vehicles in the past, but perhaps the seating position on the Sequoia rests your foot harder than you think on the brake.
Just something to consider.
Navigational System?
DVD (rear entertainment system)?
Memory seats?
Would this hurt sales of the LX470? I understand Nissan and Infiniti are rolling out similar vehicials in late 2003 as 2004 models.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Also try a good quality polish (Malms, Meguiars, Mothers, Zymol) not the wax but the polish. Most of these come in steps (polish then wax) and the polish should do the trick.
If the polish by hand doesn't work then using the polish with an orbital polisher will do the job.
Most dealerships offer some form of environmental paint protection. In the Southeast, they offer the "Toyoguard" which includes the paint protection. This stuff actually does work to prevent acid rain damage and this is essentially what you have. Most dealerships charge between #400 to $500 for this and a large portion of that expense is the warranty which is normally 5 years.
I am sure that there are products you can buy to do the same thing. Wax will not work because wax melts at about 115 degrees. The surface of your vehicle will exceed this in the summer, especially a black vehicle. Find something with a teflon base.
If so, why, if not why not. I'm very close to buying but still on the fence. Also interested in the Acura MDX (yeah, yeah, I know, totally different vehicles, but what a ride).
Thanks in advance for your responses.
Steve
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Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Prime considerations: waiting line for MDX's, selling at/near full MSRP vs having a Sequoia NOW at a reduced price. Further, I wanted some MASS around my family, as my wife was going to be the principal driver. My friend also ended his pursuits, deciding between the MDX & Seq. He chose the MDX.
Decide what your needs really are, prioritize them, and test drive each vehicle, back-to-back (if you can find an MDX). You'll know which one to choose after that.
i'm glad that you brought up this subject - sequoia vs MDX. I owned my sequoia for 2 months, there is not a day went by that I am not wishing that I have a right again to choose between two. i'm not saying I don't like sequoia. in fact my wife loves it, actually she is the one who drive it everyday. she is a big fan of landcrusier, and she think toyota make her dream come true by giving us a discount. also she think she pick a tougher car over a lady's car. anyway, i'm sure if I bought MDX, I will also think of sequoia. it's just that I picked sequoia for some silly reason. I was thinking of the same thing, toyota have a reduced price, but you need to pay mark up for MDX. but after I bought SEQ, I found out that you can pay MSRP for MDX. and toyota don't give you a better deal even they gave you invoice price, because they put a lot of thing in options, whereas for a basic MDX, you've got leather, sunroof.... so don't make my mistake, again i'm not saying sequoia is a mistake, i'm saying picking sequoia for price or even waiting time is a mistake. if this is a right vehicle for you, it'll worth the wait.
so now let me comparing 2 vehicles. I think MDX has definitely had a better ride than sequoia, especially when it turns, it feels very tight and safe. but sequoia has much more room, try the middle seat, it's very comfortable comparing to MDX. third row seat of MDX is a joke, not even for kids, because you would not want to risk you child by seat so close to the back of the vechicle, unless yu hate him/her, but i have to admit that acura sounds better than toyota. for the look, it's very subjective, but most of the people when they saw me driving sequoia, they will say what a big car, whereas, people will look at MDX and say it's a nice SUV. so if you are a family of two, like us, may be you need to think, do you really need the room. but if you want a car that can sit more than five and ride comfortabely, sequoia is your choice, cos it rides very smooth and quietly...
As such, for more information about reverse warning systems, please have a look at the Reverse warning systems discussion topic in the Aftermarket & Accessories message board.
Drew
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Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
I bought my Sequoia without running boards as well. During the negotiation process when buying my SUV, the dealer kept changing the price from $599 to $899 for running boards. We had already done our research on the internet and found some for $225. Total with s/h and paint = ~$350. I've been happy with them and they really complete the look of the Sequoia. The company we purchased them from is called Prestigous Accessories.
Loved the way the mdx drove and also the navigation system, but it wasn't THAT much bigger than our CRV, so, we opted for the Limited Sequoia which comes in the end of this month...
My advise would be the same as others have already said... Decide what your needs really are, prioritize them, and test drive each vehicle, back-to-back and make the right choice for you... Good luck!
I didn't know you can get a broker to sell your car. do you know where can I find one? and do you mind telling us how much do you loose by selling it? (us$)