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Don't buy it if you are looking for a soccer mom vehicle (cushy, plush, limo ride, echo/prius milage) you'll be very upset. But if you want a tough as nails truck that can take a beating... Look no further.
-mike
You will have to keep it until it dies also, resale value is worse than a Gateway computer:) Do some research on the business side and decide.....Good luck!
G/luck
Joel
Just bought a brand new 2002 Rodeo, and not a week later did it start squeaking as I drove over small bumps on the road. It's been to the dealer 3 times for this problem, and they've told me that they've lubricated many parts in the suspension. Still, the problem continues. It's quite an irritating sound! Ugh! It occurs sometimes more when I'm turning or breaking. Any ideas?
I would not be concerned unless it drops to a new low at some point but fluctuation is normal
G/luck
Joel
This is what I learned, any brand of gas will have their own kind of residue that tend to build up unless you switch to another brand which cleans up the residue but the second tends to form it's own residue. It was recommended to switch to another brand every few months to prevent residue build up, I switch every fill-up. Bottomline, switch from one brand to another. I also switch from 87 to 91 octane depending on the presence of the ping and then back.
I used to pour chevron techron fuel system cleaner with consistent elimination of ping but it then came back after about 2-3K miles. Now with gas brand and octane joggling, pinging has been well under control.
I am vey sure this is one of a hell very helpful information for you 'pingers' out there.
A few thousand miles ago it started squeaking on the left side...now it squeaks on the right side too. It's like a rubbing, chafing noise from the suspension wheel well area that something is loose and is going to fall off. It isn't constant but it's a loud and obnoxious racket when it's going on. "Squeak, squeak, squeak...rub, rub, rub..."
The dealership "looked at it" (for all of two seconds) the last time I had it in. All they did was look at me funny, like it couldn't possibly be making noise and adjust the hood, which isn't where the sound comes from. And of course, it won't make the noise at the dealership. If you've found a solution to your problem, let me know! Anyone else have any ideas??
I was experiencing what I thought was a squeak in my suspension in my '01 Rodeo. After reading your post, I noticed my hood was lower than the quarter panels. I opend it up, raised the bump stops, and no more squeak! You saved me a lot of trouble! Thanks.
For 2004 the Rodeo has the 'best' engine for performance and efficiency. And the reviewer simply just 'skips' that fact.
I've driven a 2000 for 60kmiles, and there have been no recalls, and I've had no problems with it, other than a burned out bulb that was replaced under warrenty. And it's been driven offroad, in the snow and in -30degree weather. It's even been driven for 28 continous hours. The mileage has been 'slightly' better than promised @ 20.5 - 21mpg with 350lbs of cargo.
It's been a solid off road vehicle .
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tidester, host
"Its way too trucky, compared to my honda accord, and the gas milage is horrible compared to it as well" Well obviously it's an SUV, a truck-based one at that, it's not going to get milage like a compact family car, nor ride as well!!!!!
-mike
I just thought it was a pretty big leap to conclude that the reviews are useless based solely one one's disagreement with respect to a particlar vehicle.
As an aside, I am always amused by some (not on this board) who insist that SUVs (read TRUCKS!) are more comfortable than cars. But that's just me!
tidester, host
-mike
I'm looking at a 2000 2WD LSE 60K miles with:
leather, power everything (except seats), sunroof, premium sound, premium wheels. Car looks clean. Requires 60K service, new tires, rear struts, fan belt, spark plugs. All about $1,200 in work.
Seller is asking around $11,500. Does this sound like a bad, good or great deal to those of you in the know? Thanks for the help!
G/luck
Joel
Was it 16,397 plus tag, tax and title or was it the actual price out the door that included everything?
I hope that Isuzu dealer stays in business for at least another three years though. They're falling down like flies :-(
I currently have a 2002 Trooper and wouldn't mind adding another Isuzu to my stable. I might hold off a year to get a 4x4 Axiom real cheap. Nice engine, a little bit better crash rating than a Rodeo, and TOD to kill for... But I've also been eyeing some Rodeos up north. I don't think they have that many good deals in Georgia.
1: clean the egr port tube(behind the intake butterfly).
2. clean or replace PCV
3. Clean egr and the egr tube.
Then if you want to try to fix the rings you can warm the engine for 10 minutes, pull the plugs, dump a little Sea Foam down into the clyinder. Let it sit for a bit 20 mins or so. Turn the engine over to push the Sea Foam out. Then install the plug and your set. Now I have never done this before, so you may want to follow the instuctions on the sea foam and just dump a 1/2 can into the oil and run it for 500 miles and then change the oil. You can also add sea foam to the gas too.
-Ryan
I called a dealer and they say it is not covered by warranty. They also said there was not "kit" for installing them.
Has anyone installed front plates from scratch. Are there instructions? Is there a BOM? I do not want to randomly drill into my vehicle.
I tried calling the customer relations and I gave up after 15 minutes on hold. I called again and they were decidely unhelpful suggesting I call the dealer. They had neither a BOM nor instructions. They also said it was not covered under warranty.
They will help you out.
I just want to know what the thread diameter and the length is so I can go to Ace Hardware and pick them up.
That said, I'm approaching my 60,000 mile maintenance, and it's a doozy. The dealership where I bought the car said it would be approx. $400. If my warranty is not going to be honored because I don't have receipts to prove maintenance was done, is there any benefit to having the maintenance done there vs. at Pepboys where it will be just under $300 and that will include cleaning the fuel injectors (this would be another $70 - $100 at Isuzu)?
One last pair of questions. My check engine light came on intermittently about a month or so ago and the service manager at the dealership said to give it some time because there are some things that can cause this that will also correct themselves (ie. gas cap not being installed correctly). Well, the check engine light is no on continuously so I figure I better get someone to look at it and correct whatever is causing it. What are some common causes for the check engine light coming on? Also, my low fuel light has just started coming on and blinking. this starts happening at between 1/4 - 1/8 of a tank of gas, so it's not simply a low fuel indication. My gas mileage has fallen off sharply in the last 2-3 months or so, and I'm assuming that this could be related to one or both of these lights, but I really don't know.
Fuel light blinking, is due the the contact arm in the tank is slightly bent and now the gas guage is inaccurate. The solution is to drop the tank and bend the little arm. I think it may be covered under the 12/120k warrenty.
The CEL ususally comes on for emissions reasons and yes the gas cap is the common cause. You may also want to pull your EGR and clean it (DIY 30 min job). Also, if there is an Autozone in the area they will read the codes for free.
Gas mileage dropping, yes, during the winter they use a different blend of gas (winter grade), and the colder weather gas is not as explosive, therefore you need more gas in to = the same power as you do in the summer.
P0463 - The PCM has determined that the voltage signal from teh fuel level sensor is too high for the current engine operating conditions.
I mentioned that someone had told me I might have a bent fuel sensor arm in my fuel tank and he said that might be the cause of this error, but he wasn't sure.
P1404 - IAT-B Circuit Malfunction / EGR Temperature sensor circuit.
He wasn't sure what this one was, so any help would be appreciated.
P300 (I think, I forgot to get this one printed out)
He said this was saying I've had 1 or more misfires and it's probably time to change the spark plugs. I've done this on a Plymouth Sundance and Saturn SL2, is there anything different about the Rodeo I should know before changing the plugs? Are there any specific plugs I should use or avoid?
here is my how to I wrote up on a different site:
---------------------------
"First I disconnected the Neg terminal on the battery.
I loosened the two screws on the intake, removed the tube that goes to the vavle cover, and then tried to remove the one sensor plug. Which didn't happen, but there was enough slack in it to move the intake and place it above the TB.
So I take a look at the butterfly valve and it doesn't look half bad. I open it and there is a bit of carbon build up. So I sprayed that area, and wiped it out with a shop towl. Then I sprayed into the intake and washed that down a bit too (.25 of the can). Next I saw the tube that Keith mentioned that cools cly #1, and I ran a Test Tube brush about 4-5 inches down it with little problems. After that I put a shop towl in the butterfly to let it air out.
Next I removed the EGR, 2 bolts and one plug. And then remove the EGR itself. I sprayed down the inside of the EGR and lots of flaky carbon washed out. I also, sprayed some down the EGR tube and the hole next to it, and ran the test tube brush down it a bit. Then I let the EGR sit out and air out for about 30-40 minutes before I installed it. Then I put everything back together.
Then the fun started. I turned the key for about 5 seconds and it would crank and crank and crank but nothing. I tried again and the same thing happened. One more time, and it turned overed and stummbled for about 7-10 seconds. Then I started to give it a bit of gas and then it happened! The dreaded Flashing Check engine light! NO! At this point it was running just fine so I took it for a spin around the block. Everytime I accelerated the CE would flash. Hmmmmm, what is going on here? Luckly I live about 2 miles away from my dealership, I pulled in told them that I had a CE flashing and they checked the gas cap, and asked if I had tried to restart the car yet. Nope, so I did that, reved it a bit and NO CE. Yippy! So I drove home and the CE never flashed once!"
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The plugs are easy (or at least I have heard this). Make sure you hold onto the coil and twist twist twist and then twist and pull at the same time. The one hard plug to get at is the one by the brake master cylinder. you will use two extensions and one flex joint to get it out. Use Desno or NGK plugs, stay away from autolites, champion, bosch.
If you are the 1st owner of your Zu then the gas sender unit is covered under the 10yr/120k warrenty:
http://www.isuzu.com/owners_warranty_2000to2002.jsp#
-Ryan
-Ryan
Engine running rough
Low power
Check Engine Light on
Major Vibrations
The Precision guys could not fix it. So I took it to the Isuzu Dealer. They said that the wrong spark plugs were put in and that the timing was off and they fixed both of those. They also said that the 'fuel sending unit' was bad and needed to be replaced. Even after the replacement, the CEL was still on and finally they said it was the O2 sensor on the left bank. Even that did not fix the problem. Then they said that the catalytic converter got burnt because of excess fuel from the wrong spark plugs. Now after changing the catalytic converter, the CEL has gone away but the engine is still running rough, and the dealer is still trying to fix it.
Any ideas on what could be causing this? Any help is appreciated. I have already spent $3000 on this non-warranty stuff since the only thing covered was the catalytic converter. The car has 66000 miles on it.
Thanks
G/luck
Joel