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Comments
Does anybody have any opinions about such a long interval? The dealer says change it at 4,000. The local auto parts store says 3,000. The more I change it, the more money those facilities make. Who should I believe?
Also, has anyone heard of changing the oil at 500 miles or 1000 miles of a new car?
Thanks!
-mike
1. The Spare tire rack "bumps" at take-off and stop, because her's about 1/4 inch of play between the locking post and the spring loaded hook that the post clips to.
That's life I guess, - but I'd like to fix the problem.
I've read on this board that other people heard this noise and thought they had rear-end (differential) problems. I promise you, if you take a Rodeo to the dealership and tell them about the noise (the dealers must know about this problem and the TRUE cause) - they'll look at your rear-end, then they'll rear-end YOU with a big bill for rear-end problems you don't have.
I'm sure I'm not the first person to notice this or to try fixing it. Would anyone like to share how they fixed the problem on their vehicle?
Of course I could just strap it down all the time, but that's a bit of an inconvenience.
Any ideas?
2. The windshield wipers
Why do the wipers only make 1/2 sweeps of the windshield while in intermittent mode?
I also have to physically hold the wiper lever in the mist position to keep the wiper running. As soon as I let go of the lever the wipers stop - even in mid-sweep - rather than returning to the lowered position, as did all my previous cars.
Is this normal, or have I got a bum wiper motor or possibly a bad timer switch?
3. Noise -
Yes, I've noticed a bit of noise. The vehicle is not the best insulated. Bear in mind, it's not a Cadillac. I've noticed that when driving on wet pavement, I keep thinking the windows are open, because it sounds especially "wet" Am I goofy?
I have not noticed an extremely high amount of wind noise. Our other vehicles are a dodge Neon and a '86 Toyots Pickup, so it's all relative I guess.
4. Rattling from passenger side rear door - - -
NOt obnoxiously loud, but noticeable when I hit bumps. Could it also be the spare tire rack (again)?
Any ideas? I haven't had a chance to look into it too much.
5. I need to get some accesory type parts -
The window shade type mechanism used to cover the cargo area, the shade that snaps over the sun roof, etc.
Where can I get it and how much should I expectto get stabbed for these "fluff" parts? I'd like to try my luck at the junk yards, but I don't think I'll score.
Any aftermarket makers of this stuff? Does anyone know if JC Whitney can provide this type of stuff?
6. O yeah, and the console and use of space between the driver's and passenger's seats is WEAK. Piss-poor, cup holders positioned out of reach, little storage space for tapes/cds/sunglasses/change and other random junk, tuner and cd player seperated from each other by a good 12 inches on the dash, ......and what the hell is behind the plastic cover just below the cd player......is it where the cd changer is supposed to go if you've got one?
Well I haven't got one of those, so I'd like to remove the cover to make better use of what is now dead space. Has anyone else tried this?
7. And the seats (cloth), even on my LS model are minimal at best. I like the manual rather than power (motorized) adjustment - less to break, cheaper to fix. But the seats lack lumbar and seat bottom tilt adjustments. How LAME can you get? I haven't driven the truck on any long trips, but I think it will be a chalenge to drive more three hours at a crack in a seat with such limited adjustment. I'm almost tempted to swap out the driver's seat with the one currently in my old Toyota (or a junkyard gem). Is it possible? Will I have problems? Can anyone recommend a budget-minded fix for the problem or a good aftermarket replacement? Looks are my last concern.
1) Rear tire holder. It will latch if lightly closed and bang around. You have to make sure it closes all the way. I remember whenever I let someone else drive my '97 i'd find the rear tire carrier partially latched. So it definitely there is something wrong there.
2)Wipers. Sounds like you have a bad wiper relay or switch. My '96 on mist would swipe 3-4x and in intermittent would do a full sweep.
3)Noise. Yes. My '97 was extremely noisey, especially in the rain. I could tell when I was going 60mph w/o even looking at the speedo.
4) Maybe your rear door needs adjustment?
5) http://isuzu-suvs.com has a ton of links to aftermarket places
Also you might want to post up on the owners club area of edmunds.
-mike
DC HOPP
Secondly, in addition to the hold back, does the dealer receive the "floor plan" back from the factory when the vehicle is sold?
Lastly, has anyone recently purchased a 2001 Rodeo at or below Edmunds' TMV price?
I think the Edmunds TMV IMHO is a bit low for most vehicles.
-mike
It used to be change the oil at 750 miles give or take. The reason being to remove the 'break-in' additives (rings, bearings, blah blah blah)
I have heard that the engines are tested before they are installed. I don't know of how long the break in period is in the factory, but it wouldn't hurt to change the oil at 500-1k miles. (I did at 800miles)
Assuming a 7% interest rate, I will save over $4,500 in finance charges, so I am very happy with the deal. I went in on a Friday afternoon and the dealer let me test drive the vehicle over the weekend and gave me a full tank of gas. We returned to the dealer on Monday and closed the deal, and the dealer topped off my tank again!
Good Luck on your shopping
Good Luck
I need a little help on pricing. When you say you pay "$175 under invoice" is that "out the door" or should I figure in Destination Charge other fees and tax, too? In other words, what should I expect for an OTD price based on invoice? I am looking at a Rodeo LS 2WD w/Comfort Pkg. and Appearance Pkg. that invoices at $23,828. What should I look at for Out the Door, and what is the formula?
Thanks for all of your help.
I would think you should be able to get that Rodeo (OTD) for $23828 - $x + taxes + tags.
Good Luck!
Thanks
JD
-mike
1. 2000 Rodeo LSE.....NEW Sticker: $31k
2. 2000 Rodeo LS Ironman Sticker: $30
3. 2001 Rodeo LS Anniversary Edition $28k
What is the best deal of these three? Would you buy a 200 model even though it's almost time for the 2002 models? What are the advantages and disadvantages of all three?
Now, is the LSE that much better for the money than an LS? I am interested in a 2001 Rodeo, largely due to the 0% financing. I can afford a new car payment at that price, or I would have to look at used.
I am going to finance for 60 mos., and think I will keep it a good two years after. Is the Leather seats and body color mirrors worth the price?
Thanks.
-mike
Beyond that, the traker is a decent vehicle, but it's very hard to compare the Traker and the Rodeo. If you get a stripped down Rodeo, you can bring it in damn cheap as the actual selling price ($2500 rebates are usually the norm) not to mention they run forever. (I had a '97 that was just like new never visited a dealer, went through 1 set of tires, and 2 sets of brake pads in 120K miles)
It's kinda like comparing a camary to a metro, yes, the metro is gonna be a lot cheaper, but they are in totally different classes.
-mike
-mike
http://isuzu-suvs.com
My latch I thought had a problem, but if I slammed it it would latch properly.
-mike
Both times Izuzu claimed it was a "driver problem" and each time I had to fork over 900.00 for the repair. Izuzu's "great warranty" only covers the clutch for 12K miles.
Has anyone had any similar problems or has Izuzu had trouble with the rodeo clutch?
Took to nearest dealership, and he could not hear anything?
Any hints?
JE
DCH
I'm looking at either a LS Rodeo or a Trooper. I'm really no good at dealing for cars, but am friends with a manager at Isuzu so i hope he doesn't try to rob me. In any case, i want to be prepared and know what he's talking when he shows me the figures. Can someone help me figure out what i SHOULD expect to pay on a 2001 Rodeo LS? Thanks so much.
1. Where do I find OFF-ROAD reviews of this vehicle?
2. When is the recommended FIRST oil change?
3. How about oil changes after that?
4. Anybody know where you can get an on-line, owners tips/tricks manual for this vehicle?
Thanks,
Tom
Oil changes: 1st @ 1500, 3000-7500 thereafter. I do 7500 interval running mobil 1 synthetic in my Trooper. On conventional oil I do them @ 3K.
-mike
If yours are located in the same place I would check it out.
DCH
I never buy 1st years of any car, cause there is always problems (see Tribute/Escape, Liberty, etc)
-mike
Anybody has similar experience?
Thanks
-mike
Steve
Host
Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Thanks!!!
becky
Thanks!
I am still not convinced that the brakes are ok. I had ABS in my prior car and I realize that they sort of take a little while longer to kick in (they don't lock up like disc brakes). But I never heard any weird noises. I am more concerned with why I notice them more when going over bumps and why they make that weird noise...almost like metal bending (like it was pushed beyond the stress point). Kinda hard to describe the noise. If it is the ABS, that is fine, but does anyone else have that weird noise???
Thanks for the feedback guys!
-mike