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if anyone hates thier rodeo sell it ,trade it whatever
but complaning about it wont help it ,If ridsding yourself of it is not an option ,take care of it and it will take care of you. Last thing to the person aaking about shocks
try the Monroe gasmatics I installed them and love them.
tidester, host
Chock
This is being advertised on the net from a dealer in colorado. car fax shows it was an east coast vehicle from Pennsylvania most of it's life with the exception of the last 2 years which is in Colorado. My concern is the "white' stains underneath the carriage area & some in the front grill area. The body paint has no signs of rust or repaint. The wheel wells seemed to be recoated with some kind of black coating perhaps rust proofing? Of corse the engine is power washed to look brand new so I can't tell of any rust or east coast salt damage. Great test drive pretty solid vehicle with a litte ratteling from the spare tire mount on gate. my question is buying a vehicle from the east coast area where they use alot of salt. There was some rust around a few screws underneath but nothing real major and I noticed looking thru the wheels at the brake area the disc or some metal disc it is rusty. The drum mabey?(i'm not very smart with car parts) Any suggestions? The online price was at 7,755 & I got him down to 6800. I am going to have my mechanic look it over on Mon after Easter so any help before then would be great. Any suggestions? Thanks, JD
Thanks
The first one signals the cruise control that the pedal has been depressed ands subsequently disables cruise control. This switch is normally depressed when in gear or at rest.
The second switch is located at the other end of the clutch pedal travel and us located closer to the firewall. This switch does not allow the engine to start unless it is depressed by pushing the clutch pedal all of the way in. I have installed a momentary switch in parallel with the OEM switch so that I may start with the transmission in neutral and the clutch pedal in it's normal position.
My point is: It is relatively easy to crawl on the floorboard and look to where the pedal swinds back toward the firewall. You will see a switch mounted to a bracket. Pull the connector and either test the switch or replace it.
remove fuse no. 4 to clear memory
Mike
My 2002 6-cyl / 3.2L Rodeo now has 62,000 miles on it. At about 40,000 miles, my check engine light began coming on and staying on. After several visits to a somewhat local Isuzu dealer here in Chicagoland, no one can find the problem. The dealer has cleaned the fuel injectors, installed a new engine harness, but I still go through a quart of oil every 200-miles! Now I find out that the Isuzu Rodeo has a history of oil seal leakage - oil seals that are defective. I even had a routine oil change (I change the oil every 90 days), filled the Rodeo with 5 new quarts of oil and was empty 4 days later. The dealer can't find the problem and won't admit that there is a warranty issue. This has dragged on since August 2004. Now the Rodeo has 62,000 miles on it and the dealer says he cannot help me because of the 60,000-mile warranty. This isn't right and it's certainly poor customer service. Any thoughts from the forum members?
Thanks...
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a45120!v=
The only reliable way to check the EGR valve itself is with a Tech 2 diagnostic tool, which monitors the electronic activity commanding the valve and the feedback from the valve. Depending on your desire, you can remove the EGR carefully and take care in doing so to not damage the gasket. Then you could carefully wire brush the pintle (moving) part of the valve itself. The orifice that the valve controls will also be accessible, and again, if you have the right brush you can remove some of the accumulated carbon. It can be awkward and you have to take care to remove as much of the debris as possible. A Vacuum will help. Once you bolt it back together,(being sure to reinstall it in the same position you removed it) if the problem is fixed then the code will clear itself after a number of ignition cycles, if you don't clear them using a tech 2 or removing the negative battery cable for a period of time.
You don't give the Transmission Code, so it is difficult to give any indication of what it means, and slipping can also feel like surging, which may or may not be trans related. Supply the code and maybe more info will become available. Good Luck
1992 Isuzu Truck Rodeo (2WD) V6-3137cc 3.1L (CPC)
Vehicle Level Powertrain Management Computers and Control Systems Testing and Inspection Displaying & Reading Trouble Codes
Displaying & Reading Trouble Codes
ALDL/DLC Connector
SYSTEM OPERATION
If a problem develops in a monitored system with the engine running, the "Check Engine" light will come "ON" and a trouble code will be stored in ECM memory. As long as a problem is present, the light will remain "ON" while the engine is running. If the problem is intermittent, the light will go out but a trouble code will be stored in ECM memory. As a bulb check, the "Check Engine" light will come "ON" with the ignition switched "ON" and the engine not running. If no codes are present, the light will go out upon starting the engine. If the light remains "ON," the system has detected a fault. To allow checking circuits which may be difficult to energize without driving the vehicle and being under particular operating conditions, all ECM controlled relays and solenoids (except fuel pump relay) are energized in Diagnostic mode.
Note that many electronic engine control tests require the use of a "Scan" tool.
Field Service Mode
If the diagnostic terminal is grounded with the engine running, the system enters Field Service mode and the "Check Engine" light will indicate whether it is in "Open Loop" or "Closed Loop." In "Open Loop," the light flashes two and one half times per second. In "Closed Loop," the light flashes once per second. If the system is running lean while in "Closed Loop," the light will stay "OFF" most of the time. Conversely, it will stay "ON" most of the time if the system is running rich. While in Field Service mode, the ECM will not store new trouble codes.
Extracting Trouble Codes
The "Check Engine" light displays trouble codes that are stored in ECM memory. To activate the Diagnostic mode, a special connector located in the center console is utilized. There is a conflict in the manual on this, as it also says it is located where you have looked previously. When the ALDL (assembly line diagnostic link) connector is jumpered between terminals "A" and "B" with the ignition "ON" and the engine not running, the light will flash any stored codes.
Here is diagram of aldl: http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a46397!v=
The first code to display should be code 12. This indicates that the self-diagnostics are functioning and is not a trouble code. The code 12 display is a flash followed by a short pause, then two flashes followed by a longer pause. If other codes are present, they will display in the same manner after code 12 has flashed three times. For example, the code 23 display is two flashes followed by a short pause, then three flashes followed by a longer pause. Each stored code is displayed three times, starting with the lowest in numerical order. Code 12 will repeat when all codes have shown. If no codes are stored, code 12 will display repeatedly until Diagnostic mode is exited by removal of the ALDL jumper wire. Remove the jumper wire before attempting to start the engine.
INTERMITTENT "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT
"Intermittent" means that the "Check Engine" light may come on at times but does not stay on. Since codes may or may not be stored, the use of diagnostic charts could result in replacement of good parts.
Most intermittent problems are caused by faulty electrical wiring or connections. Carefully check these potential causes:
Poor mating of connector halves or terminals not fully seated in connector body.
Deformed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuit should be carefully reformed to increase contact tension.
Poor terminal-to-wire connection. This requires removing terminal from connector body to properly check.
Poor ground connections.
If a visual check does not find the source of the problem, the vehicle may be driven with a voltmeter connected to a suspect circuit. An abnormal voltage reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit. If wiring and connectors check okay and a code was stored for a circuit having a sensor (except codes 44 and 45), substitute a known good sensor and recheck.
Loss of ECM trouble code memory. To check, disconnect throttle position sensor and idle engine until "Check Engine" light comes "ON." Code 22 should be stored in memory for at least 10 seconds after ignition is turned "OFF." If not, the ECM is faulty.
An intermittent "Check Engine" light with no stored code may be caused by:
Arcing at ignition coil, plug wires or spark plugs.
EST wires should be routed away from spark plug wires, ignition system components and alternator.
Poor power supply circuit connections.
"Check Engine" light wire to ECM shorted to ground (circuit BLU/PNK 03).
Diagnostic test lead to ECM shorted to ground (circuit 451)
Poor ECM ground connections.
Electrical system interference caused by a defective relay, ECM driven solenoid or switch. These problems cause an electrical surge and normally occur when the faulty component is operated.
Improper installation of accessories such as lights, sound systems, alarms, etc.
Hope this helps!
Thank you Supertech,
Audrey
The repair manual states and shows diagrams of the ALDL harness to check computer codes at home. I cannot see this harness. Has anyone seen the harness? The book says under driver side dash to the left. Here is a pic set by atfdmike of the diagram from the book. http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a46397!v=
This Rodeo has had almost everything replaced so feel free to post questions..
I am not suggesting you release the refrigerant, but usually it takes some time of normal AC operation for the oil to settle down after running the AC, at which time it will usually end up in the compressor sump and the accumulator(receiver)/dryer bottle (if equipped). Once it settles, shutting down the system will leave most of the oil intact, and the slow release of pressure from an ambient system will not release a lot of oil at the same time. Unfortunately, you have no way of recovering what you release so that you can measure it. If you attempt it, there will be some oil moving when you start releasing, so short of using a recycling station, oil will be released along with the refrigerant.
With ALL this in mind, the best answer is to have the system totally evacuated and drained by a suitable mechanic, at which time you can then add the proper amounts and type of oil and refrigerant and be assured that no ill results will take place. Your system holds by total amount only 5 ounces of oil and 1.43 pounds of refrig according to the manual. the oil is special and is a Polyalkaline Glycol (PAG) refrigerant oil. PAG refrigerant oil has a slight blue tint. The oil is hydroscopic (absorbs water from the atmosphere).
One guys opinion, hope it helps. Maybe others have other ideas.
Hikick1
That way someone stumbling onto your post in a year or two will easily find the photos.
Steve, Host
thanx
I believe the site is carpartswholesale.com or go to ebay.com.....type bumper isuzu rodeo
Thanks Robby
Your fuel pump should turn on for about 2 to 5 seconds when you turn the key on the first time, and if you just turn the key to "on" without cranking, you may be able to hear it if it is quiet outside. I suggest you learn how to use the search function of this forum to look for people that may have had similar problems. Perhaps look for "starting problems" . With more information, I think others can suggest answers to help you. Fuel pumps and relays have been known to cause intermittent problems, and there are ways to check them for function. Good luck
if they are the same, switch then with headlights or whatever is using the same relay. Good luck........