Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Steve, Host
Mechanical
250-plus HP 4.0L DOHC V6
270-plus lb-ft. torque
5-speed Electronically Controlled Automatic Transmission
Continuous Valve timing control system
21.1 gallon fuel tank
4 wheel disc brakes with Anti-lock Braking System (ABS)
Active Brake Limited Slip (ABLS)
Vehicle Dynamic Control (VDC)
Electronic Brake Force Distribution (EBD) & Brake Assist (BA)
available 2wd or 4wd system
front & rear independent double wishbone suspension with
stabilizer bar
engine speed sensitive power -assisted rack & pinion steering
265/65 R17 tires
Full-size spare tire ( 16" aluminum alloy wheel)
Exterior
Fully boxed, high strength steel frame
mesh grille with chrome surround
body colored bumpers and fender flares
body colored front and rear door handles
Roof rail crossbars
Side running boards
Fog lamps
Heated outside mirrors
Auto headlamps
Power Sunroof
black rear privacy glass
receiver hitch member
4 pin trailer harness plug
Comfort and Convenience
Bose audio system with 8-speakers and subwoofer (satellite ready)
6 disc in-dash CD player with MP3 capability
Steering wheel audio switches
accessory power delay (30 seconds)
cruise control with steering wheel mounted controls
dual front and rear 20-oz. cup holders
flip out liftgate glass w/ glass hatch release
front, rear & center console box 12v DC outlets
digital clock integrated in audio display system
front variable intermittent windshield wipers w/ washer
leather steering wheel
tilt steering wheel
liftgate window intermittent wiper
Leather seats and door inserts
Heated front seats
dual zone auto a/c
rear a/c with controller
power windows (DR/AS with one-touch auto down) and power locks
dual power remote-controlled outside mirrors
Driver memory package (seat, mirrors, pedals)
rear center console vent
rear window defroster w/ timer
Fuel Filler Door (push to open) (unlocks w/central locking system)
adjustable pedals
auto day/night rearview mirror
digital compass
outside temperature gauge
dr/as sunvisor w/ extenders and illuminated vanity mirrors
leather shift knob
silver painted center cluster
wood trim (center console and window switch finishers)
Rear reading lamp
Cargo net
First aid kit
remote keyless entry
driver & passenger sunvisor with vanity mirror
2nd row hidden underseat storage compartment
2nd row fold-down center armrest
storage compartment underneath cargo floor
8-way power driver seat
Power passenger seat (4-way)
Safety and Security
Nissan Advanced Airbag System (AABS) for driver and front passenger
side-impact air bags
side curtain airbags with rollover sensor
3 point front seat belts with pretensioners and load limiters
ALR / ELR seat belt system for rear outboard positions
adjustable front, 2nd and 3rd row head restraints
zone body with front and rear crumple zones
side-door guard beams
energy absorbing steering column
Lower Anchors and Tethers for CHildren (LATCH)
child seat anchor - 3 tether points
child-safety rear door locks
tire pressure monitoring system (with warning lamp in mter cluster)
immobilizer theft deterrent system
from the site above:
Their "build it" website is not thorough enough on price yet I think. Just see below.
Pathfinder LE: Rugged Luxury
Starting under: $37,200
Capability and creature comfort in equal measure. Adds real wood trim, a leather-appointed interior, dual zone A/C, and a host of refinements.
its really not that hard.
Total Designed MSRP† $31,910.00
Model: LE Platinum Edition
Exterior: Chrome Silver
Interior: Black Leather
Standard Features
• 240-hp 3.5-liter V6 engine
• Automatic Temperature Control (ATC)
• Bose® audio system with AM/FM/in-dash 6-CD
View all standard features
Drivetrain
4x2
Packages and Options
None Selected
Accessories
None Selected
Base MSRP $31,350.00
Total Packages, Options, & Accessories $0.00
Destination & Handling $560.00
Total Designed MSRP† $31,910.00
*********************************************
2005 Nissan Pathfinder LE
Total Price† $33,560.00
Model: LE
Exterior: Silver Lightning
Interior: Graphite Leather
Standard Features
• Bose audio system with 8-speakers and subwoofer (satellite ready)
• dual zone auto air conditioning
• Leather seats with wood trimmed console
View all standard features
Drivetrain
4x2
Packages and Options
None Selected
Accessories
None Selected
Base Price $33,000.00
Total Packages, Options, & Accessories $0.00
Destination & Handling $560.00
Total Price† $33,560.00
a LOADED 2005 LE with everything except navi, dvd, and satellite radio is $36970.
i apologize, it went up $830...not $400.
the problem is that the 2005 has VDC standard where it is an option on the 2004. same goes for the tow hitch.
While the rear seat and cargo space may go up nicely (which pleases all the poseurs who acquire SUV's to drive them around suburbia), those of us who seek serious trails often find that smaller is better.
Besides which, lighter usually equals somewhat better fuel economy (as if that were possible with this engine).
Is the goal to drive (sorry) the serious off-roader to the Xterra?
Either way, they missed me by a year. I got my PF while it was still intermediate, before it started wanting to be an Excursion.
I think it was also the last year the Pathfinder was built in Japan
I will let you know what happens to the LTX. ( Started @ 28 PSI)
the problem nissan ran into was that the pathfinder lost its place in the lineup. the murano is a 5-passenger SUV with updated technology and nicer features (and is still built in japan). the xterra is more utilitarian, and does the off-road stuff better than almost every other SUV (under $40k).
so where, oh where do we put the pathie now? there is only one obvious answer. mid-sized, and with 3 rows of seats. at present, the only vehicles that nissan has that will hold 7 people are the armada and the quest. the armada is ok for folks who have $40k-$45k to spend. but for those who dont? the quest. what? you dont want a minivan? ok. have fun with your pilot or explorer, sir...bye.
pathfinder sales took a dump when the murano arrived. beleive me...we can hardly give them away. this move to "a little more pathfinder" is the best move by nissan next to the titan launch.
Just leased a 2004 pathfinder/pop package/sunroof package for 355/month $1360. down. How bad did I get robbed? or did I?
Does anyone know if calipers are considered items that will be replaced under the 60000km warrenty.
I took my 2001 SE PF for a brake inspection at midas and was told that both of the front calibers are sticking/ceasing. Furthermore it is causing uneven wear on my pads and warping the rotors.
Any input is greatly appreciated!
Used Car Pricing: Nissan Vehicles Select a Year
Then click on a model and then you can get ratings from JD Power, specs, etc.
Steve, Host
It contains 676 message with the last one posted in August of '99.
Nissan Pathfinder problems is actually older but only has 19 postings.
Good luck!
tidester, host
Thanks again.
(And Tides does have a special shortcut he created all his lonesome <g>).
Steve, Host
Thanks for reading this.
Check our Tips page for 10 Steps to Selling Your Car and other hints.
Steve, Host
tidester, host
I really thank you for taking the time to respond. By the way for those who have been pondering about purchasing a Pathfinder I would like to say that owning ours was hassle free of any mechanical issues. It was a good practical car to own. I would definitely recommend to anyone to seriously look at the Pathfinder. If not the Pathfinder look at the Toyota 4 Runner.
Again thanks for responding.
I bought a 2001 Pathfinder SE (auto) last week with 50,000 miles. I am very pleased with it's car like feel so far. When I engage 4x4 under normal conditions (no snow or mud) the car makes a lot of noise especially while turning in slow speeds. The dealer says it is normal for 4x4 since the wheels are spinning at different speeds for traction when it is not needed so it will be rough and noisy. is this true?
Thanks.
Finally, when engaging 4LO, be sure to move the lever from 4H to 4L smoothly, quickly, and without pause. Pull back on lever from 2H to 4H. Push downward while pulling back on the lever all the way to engage 4L. Do not stop in N. Any hesitation or pause will cause a disconcerting grinding sound, in which case you'll simply need to shut off the engine to complete the shift, then restart the engine.
Thanks a lot.
thx
What I mean is if a wheel rotates faster or slower than the others. Because the mechanics of the vehicle have them locked together, when one tries to turn more or less than the others torque will build up in the drivetrain. It usually just causes eccessive wear when it happens but, if the drivetrain is carrying high torque loads (high powers) it can actually break parts! e.g. high speed on a paved highway, or in 4LO, sharp turn on rock with climbing. It can also cause you to loose control because it doesn't want to turn. Try it in a parking lot at low speed (crawling). Lock in 4Hi and try a sharp turn. You will see the vehicle doesn't want to turn! The drivetrain is binding up.
Turning means the outside wheels have to turn more than the inside ones. The fronts turn more than the rear. If you don't have the tire air pressures the same, the tire diameter can be different, so they turn at different rates. If you have different size tires on (not recommended!!) they will turn at different rates - even the same size from different manufacturers, or different models of tire from the same manufacturer.
4WD can be very picky! What it's intended for is "offroad" use. Loose surface roads, such as gravel, sand, or dirt as well as ice and snow allow the wheels to slip to prevent the binding torques from rising very high. You will still notice poorer handling, if you're sensitive enough. If you use it enough, you learn to use power to make it turn easier.
Wet pavement is actually not very slippery, unless it's covered with grease/oil.
Proper shifting as per most vehicle manuf.: -
From 2WD to 4WD Hi range - slow to under 50 MPH and with the throttle off (coasting) gently pull the lever into 4WD. Let it go at it's own speed, don't force it.
From 4WD Hi to 2WD - same thing. If you are on pavement or "hard surface" it may not want to go - just put pressure on the lever and turn the wheel slightly one way then the other (to take out the binding).
From 4WD Hi to Lo - Stop the vehicle, hold the clutch in, and gently push on the lever. Be advised, most low range 4WD cases give about 2X gear ratios, so the engine will rev. very high in first gear. You will also have better luck shifting gears (once in 4WD Lo) slowly. The syncros can have a lot of work to do spinning up those gears twice as much as in Hi.
From 4WD Lo to Hi - Same as going into low range. Stop the vehicle, and take your time shifting. You may have to release any binding the same as above.
If you have "manual locking hubs", you should lock them before shifting into 4WD and unlock them after shifting out of 4WD. You should also lock them for a day at least every few months, even if you are not using 4WD. Most drive train parts lubricate better when rotated.
If you have an "auto" 4WD system (Pathfinder LE and some SEs) the above applies if you switch to 4WD, though the shifting gently part is automatic. In "auto" mode you don't have to worry about most of it.
The "auto" 4WD system is my choice for wet pavement and partial snow conditions. Too bad it's only available as part of an automatic transmission.
However, if either the front or rear axles lose traction with a center differential, all the power will go to the spinning axle/wheel, unless it's possible to lock it or it's limited slip. Many of the high-dollar AWD vehicles (Audi, et al) use the traction control system to apply braking to the spinning wheel to send power to the wheels with traction.
At lower speeds (in the ice or snow) or off-road, vehicles without a center (or inter-axle) differential do just fine. But on dry roads and/or at high speeds, where the wheels can't slip a little bit on corners, any vehicle without a center differential needs to be using 2WD. Besides the added strain & wear on the drive line, the unexpected/unpredictable wheel slippage really affects handling.
The tradeoff for the simplicity and lower cost (which I prefer) is that one has to have the presence of mind to use 4WD (especially low range) only when needed. Both axles are always fed power without regard to whether one has lost traction which, combined with LSD on the axle differentials, makes for a serious off-road machine (as opposed to a suburban utility vehicle).
The new Toyota 4Runner has a torsen centre diff. - the best kind.
Which system is best? A good question, but best for what? It seems to me for on-road use (the most common use for SUVs) the system we have in the Pathfinder is most suitable. For off-road use full lock (no diff action) seems to be best.
For serious off-road 4 wheeling a short wheelbase vehicle is much prefered - such as a Jeep CJ7, a (out of production) Toyota Landcruiser FJ40, or a Suzuki. Long wheelbase 4WD vehicles such as SUVs and pickups work best on slippery roads, as they don't try to swap ends too quickly, but they are a real handful in severe 4 wheeling. Their length then works against them (high centering, difficult to guide through rocks, etc.). The extra weight doesn't help either.
I have bought mine last may,and very happy with the truck.I have been useing premium,but wandering do I really need it.Please let me know.Mine is 2wD,SE. tHANKS.