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Jeep Cherokee

1131416181951

Comments

  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    I have the tow hooks on my '01 but no up-country package. Dealer installed option, but I admit it's a good indication that somethin's going on:) I would think the missing rear sway would be a good clue. Not many folks going to just up and remove that. Seems like someone told me the rear diff. pumpkin is shaped different on the trac-loc units. You could look at a unit you knew didn't have it and then compare from there.
  • vin_weaselvin_weasel Member Posts: 237
    The diff units would be the same unless you open up the case. If you're going to change the fluids yourself, which was relatively easy, you'll notice a big difference between the front and back internals if you have a trac-lok. The front will be open and the rear will have a cylinder-looking object in the opening. I changed out my fluids in the spring and it was quite a learning experience to see how those things actually work.

    The Cherokee came with 3 different rear axles. There is sort of a rhyme and reason to the selections, but it can be random. The Dana 35 rear is very common and has an oval shape (I'm not sure if there were different versions offered over the years and if so they didn't vary by much) It will be found on any XJ with ABS. The Dana 44 (the strongest one offered) will only be found from the factory on '87 and some '88-89s. It has a strange shape with a bulge in the cover. Finally the Chrysler 8.25 axle, which came in two versions, 27 & 29 spline, was introducted in the early to mid 90's and has a sharp flat edge on the bottom. The trac-lok was offered in all three and I don't believe you can just swap one to another, they have to be the same axle type.

    My Jeep is almost an upcountry. I've installed tow-hooks, and two of the three skid plates (still looking for a front in the junkyard)and the rear sway bar is in the garage. I didn't get the extra lift springs but I do have a 2" kit waiting for when I've got a little extra money and time for incidentals. I haven't noticed any change in handling or towing without the rear sway bar.
  • cmtrurancmtruran Member Posts: 5
    thank you to all who contributed information, greatly appreciated. I had a local dealer run the vin # from a particular jeep cherokee (actually two cherokees) and said that he couldn't find in his computer that either jeep had the trac-lock option. However, he did say that his computer stated that for service needs only a special type of diff-fluid made for trac-loc axles should be used. I guess that would be a good indication of a trac-loc axle. Have'nt checked on the sway-bar for the up-country suspension though. He also said that there is usually a metal tag on the axle or a sticker wrapped around the axle with numbers on either one and from that he could definately tell if it had trac-loc.
    On a side note. I read some of the comments in this particular forum about chrysler service being terrible and that some cherokees basically were lemons.
    ruggedness of a jeep: I formerly owned a 98 wrangler sport with a 4" lift running 33's. Stories: Stuck in mud umpteen times( only trying to get to places that no other vehicle could even attempt to go), stuck in a river(no snorkel, which will definately have on the cherokee), able to go down trails that only 4-wheelers or dirt bikes could go.
    service by chrysler: except for the sheering of teeth from the rear end axle (definately my fault) that was replaced by the dealer with absolutely no questions asked, no mechanical problems whatsoever. Oh yeah, and talking to a Jeep dealer parts guy for twenty minutes about how to find out if a cherokee has trac-loc, and it was'nt even the dealer who had the cherokee for sale. Sound like bad service? Or for that matter like an undependable vehicle? There is a reason why the military used and actually still has some jeeps in service. They are bad-[non-permissible content removed] utilitarian vehicles made for dirt. Give me a break, grow up people and use your lemon laws but quit bitchin cause you will never find that perfect vehicle, unless you drive a jeep.
  • vin_weaselvin_weasel Member Posts: 237
    I would love to see numbers on the cherokees (not Grands) returned under the lemon laws in the States. I wonder what the difference is compared specifically to the Grand Cherokee and then other vehicles. Does anyone know of any good resources for this info?

    It seems that they've ironed out the majority of the problems during the long run of Cherokees. I've had only one mechanical item needing replacement (one of the pre-cat cats on the downpipe of the header) and a few squeaks. Now if only I could keep people from trying the steal/break into it (twice now).

    cmtruran, what gear ratio/axle were you running to shear off the teeth?
  • ealmeealme Member Posts: 6
    My daughter has a 1996 Jeep Cherokee, 6 cylinder with 100k miles on it. We have the vehicle for a couple of weeks while she is using ours. I drove it the other day and upon hard acceleration I heard the sound of "marbles being shaken in a can" coming from under the car. Thinking something terrible was wrong I took it in to Precision Tune who told me that the Catalytric Converter was starting to come apart. He said they don't do catalytic converters but it wasn't a big problem at this time. Can somebody give me a quick lesson on catalytic converters? Do they need to be replaced? Is 100k miles approximately the time they need to be replaced? How much does it cost to replace them? And did this guy really know what he was talking about when he told me it was the catalytic converter? Sorry, but in all my years of driving, I have never had anything to do with a catalytic converter on any of my vehicles.
  • cmtrurancmtruran Member Posts: 5
    vin_weasel: I believe the gear ratio was 3.07(98 wrangler sport). It was my first "outing" in a 4-wheel drive vehicle. My friend was pulling my vehicle out with chains. I was in neutral being pulled along this ditch(one side of jeep was caught in very deep tractor tire ruts) and I slipped it into reverse thinking this would help. There goes the teeth. This was before I had the lift and 33's. Also about the lemon laws you can check this out:
    "Thanks to the efforts of the Center for Auto Safety, we are able to provide you with the vehicle complaints on file with the National Highway for Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA). Each year, thousands of Americans call their government to register complaints about their vehicles. The federal government collects this information but has never released it to the general public. The complaint index is based on a ratio of the number of complaints for each vehicle to the sales of that vehicle," the rest is at www.lemonlaw.com/lemonlist.html

    ealme: go to www.howstuffworks.com/catalytic-converter.htm it's a great site to learn from.
    also don't forget to check your skid-plate bolts for tightness. Loose ones will cause a rattle that sounds like marbles in a can. Catalytic converters are not cheap and can't be bought used either.
  • cmtrurancmtruran Member Posts: 5
    hey ealme, this link is actually better then the last one I gave you. Answeres your question quickly and even says how a mechanic can tell if yours is going bad.


    link: http://www.howstuffworks.com/question482.htm

  • design786design786 Member Posts: 14
    I hear a clicking sound from the front end every time I stop and accelerate. I have replaced the brake calipers and shocks but the clicking sound remains. The dealer says my ty-rod bushing are fine. Any suggestions as to what might be causing this problem.

    Note: While stationary, moving the front end up and down does not produce the clicking sound.

    Clicking sound - as if two pieces of metal hit.
  • cmtrurancmtruran Member Posts: 5
  • cherokeejimcherokeejim Member Posts: 2
    Both my Cherokee's ('86, and my current '93) experienced the rattling marble phenom between 60k and 70k miles. More of and annoyance than anything else, but the vehicles wouldn't pass smog until they were fixed. It's been a long time, but the cost was around $150. I believe. No trouble after that and I had 150k on the 83 and now 175k on my '93. I noticed on the Grand Cherokee board someone posted that there was a recall on converters for crapping out prematurely. Perhaps that applies to Cherokees as well.

    < And did this guy really know what he was talking about when he told me it was the catalytic converter?> Yes, and he sounds like a keeper since he wasn't making any $$$ off the diagnosis.

    I have never had anything to do with a catalytic converter on any of my
    vehicles.
  • perqueperque Member Posts: 9
    1997 cherokee 4.0l. Belt tension seems fine, but when engine is revved with ac compressor engaged, there is a squealing sound. When ac is turned off and engine is revved, the noise is not present. Is this a belt problem or a ac compressor problem? Should I change the belt first, then see what happens?
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Sounds a little like the AC clutch hanging up. Have a friend rev the engine while you're looking at the belt/ac pulley. When it starts squealing, look to see if the pulley isn't moving. If it's the AC clutch/pulley hanging, the belt will just slip around it and squeal. The bad news is I'm pretty sure you'll have to replace the whole A/C compressor. Not sure if there's any good news.
  • cranecrewcranecrew Member Posts: 27
    It's happening more frequently now! ALL gauges will go dead including speedo., tach, and odom. then the red airbag light will illuminate. Any suggestions where I should look first?
  • fishookedfishooked Member Posts: 14
    perque,

    I had the same problem on my '98. Would squeal like hell whenever the ac or defogger was on. Turns out it was just the belt, so check that first. Much cheaper!
  • fishookedfishooked Member Posts: 14
    Read your post on towing capacity, and towing a 17 ft boat should be fine. Just make sure your trailer hitch is a class III and you can tow 5000 lbs.

    I have '98 Cherokee and it tows my 14ft (a very heavy 14ft) boat just fine. Drags a little on hills though - could use more than 190 hp.
  • mhall02mhall02 Member Posts: 38
    Just got word back from the dealership the the rear drums on my 2000 Sport w/ 59,000 miles were slightly warped. The vehicle makes a little thump thump sound in the back when stopping so I thought I would have it checked out. I've heard of the front rotors warping (I still have the original and they are OK), but nothing about the rear drums. Is this common? Is there a good aftermarket drum available that anyone has used, or should I stick with Mopar. I will eventually replace these myself(the noise isn't too annoying yet), but was just wondering.
  • fishookedfishooked Member Posts: 14
    Hey folks,

    Should have checked out this forum before I bought my '98..(sigh)..oh well.

    Anyway, here is my beef. Scheduled another appointment to get NEW rotors again. First time was at 36K, now need new ones at 70K. Feels like my tires are going to fly off when decelerating from 50+ on uneven pavement, as well as the whole steering column.

    This is the part I don't get: when the mechanic looked at my warped rotors they said I need new ones, since they are now a composite metal & graphite material (?) and they can't be reground. But if they are composites shouldn't they not even be warping again in the first place?

    I am growing wearing of my expensive repair bills on this peice of junk.

    Anyway, I was looking for a place where I can buy rotors myself and maybe save some money. I checked performanceproducts.com, but they don't have rotors for my Jeep. Anyone know where else I can get them, as well as other Jeep equipment?

    Thanks all, you guys are great!
  • ealmeealme Member Posts: 6
    Thanks to all of you who helped me with the catalytic converter information. I really appreciated your help. Today my wife drove the 96 Jeep Cherokee to work and when she came home she said that she thought it was leaking fluid underneath about in the middle. We placed some newspapers under the Jeep and sure enough, two hours later we had a spot. Looking under the Jeep I saw a drip waiting to drop from the transmission. Consulting the owners manual, I checked the fluid level which registered full. The manual said not to overfill with fluid or it would foam out. My question is; Is it common to have a leak in the transmission, or should I assume that someone overfilled it at the last check-up? Thanks in advance for any insights.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    It's quite possible the fluid came out the vent. I had my fluid changed at 30K, and this summer was doing some very hard running (90mph or so) and had a big puff of smoke come out. Figured I bought the big one, but nothing happened. Checked underneath and sure enough it was tranny fluid blown all over the place. Checked the fluid level and it was a bit above full. Guess the dealer bozos overfilled it, which doesn't surprise me (in their defense it's slightly difficult to refill a auto tranny). I'd give it awhile and see if it quits. If it just got hot and shot some out the vent, it's probably just leaking "residual" fluid off the tranny.
  • gbsmf2320gbsmf2320 Member Posts: 1
    A common cause of the rotors warping on jeeps is over torquing the wheel lug nuts. They should only be torqued to 80-90 foot pounds. Over torqueing apparently distorts the center of the rotor causing misalingment of the rotor and warping. Also make sure you avoid too much heavy praking. I have not problems on my 89 cherokee and 97 grand cherokee. I even tow a horse trail w. the grand and have the original rotors w. 82,000 miles on them. An occasional pulsation felt but not often. Go to autozone (check on autozone.com)for reasonably priced rotors and also get some performance friction pads which are great you won't be dissappointed. Remember brake early and gently. The brake problem and solutions are often discussed on jeepsunlimited.com and naxja.org. Greg
  • fishookedfishooked Member Posts: 14
    Maybe it's just a problem on the '98's; they did do a recall on the rotors once already. I was always sure to never hammer my brakes; I think I was pretty easy on them but they still need replacing again.

    I've heard mechanics say that since they are metal they heat up quick and sometimes if you would hit a puddle or something the quick change in temp would warp them.

    Sounds like a pretty flimsy explanation to me, or at least cheap-[non-permissible content removed] rotors.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    My first set were replaced for free at 25K miles and were vibrating rather bad. I'm at 50K miles now and these ones shoe no signs of vibrating at all. I tow trailers every now and then which was what I though caused the first set but maybe not. If these ones warp early, I'll go with some performance rotors.
  • vin_weaselvin_weasel Member Posts: 237
    Well, I'm at 30k km and my second set are starting to go. I keep them properly tightened and I drive very gently on them. My wife on the other hand...
  • sandyboysandyboy Member Posts: 114
    Don't feel bad. My 2001 with 6,623 miles needs rotors and it's being done this week at my dealer under warrentee. Not hard on brakes, but live in urban area with stop signs & traffic lights every 200 feet. Drive to work is 7 miles, encompassing 14 lights & 3 stop streets. Stop Go Stop Go Stop Go Stop Go.....all day! I also need front pads.

    S A N D Y
  • checkmecheckme Member Posts: 73
    Rotor problems are endemic on a lot of vehicles today. The Cherokee isn't alone. Cars ranging from the Ford Focus to the Dodge Intrepid have rotor problems.

    The underlying cause of this problem is that anufacturers have elected to use cheaper parts. The rotors on my own 2001 Sport were replaced at 9,000 miles. Today I have 23,000, and no problems yet. If they start warping again, which does not seem impossible, I plan to simply pony up for decent aftermarket rotors. I shouldn't have to, but it seems like a good long term investment. I'd rather pay $200 now and forget about the whole thing than pay $150 every 20,000 miles. Can anyone suggest any good brands?
  • boggseboggse Member Posts: 1,048
    Brembo makes their sport brakes for the Cherokee, at least up until 1998. I am not sure if the brakes changed after 1998. Anyway, you can get them drilled or slotted, but not both. Both models are compatible with the Jeep ABS system.


    http://www.brembo.com/


    Also, Performance Products sells a rear disc conversion kit. It isn't worth it in my opinion, but worth mentioning. It isn't in their online catalog, but shows up in their printed catalog which you can order for free.


    http://www.performanceproducts.com/

  • HammertimeHammertime Member Posts: 14
    I'm with GBSM.

    I have 48,000 on my 98 cherokee and have had no problems with warped rotors. Most of the miles are from short, in-town trips and towing a 2,500 pound trailer.
  • fishookedfishooked Member Posts: 14
    Looks like I've started quite the run on rotor conversation! Just in case anyone is wondering, my father-in-law works for a dealership and got me the rotors for 44.00 each, which is cost. Turns out the dealership would charge at least 67.00 each for them, and the place where I'm having them done was going to charge me at least 75.00!

    At least I know I'm not getting screwed on parts (this time).
  • bcm0030bcm0030 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1997 that I purchased new. It currently has 74000 miles and has been extremely reliable. I am currently having the belt problem that others have but believe mine is just due to belt needing replaced. Has anyone attempted this or is it something best left to the dealer. I have not had any rotor problems (new pads at 50000 and I always rotate my tires and torque to factory specs) and rear brakes still have not been replaced. The vehicle is in imaculate condition and has been well maintained. I do however have a growling/rumbling noise from drivetrain. (seems to be towards the rear) Its not real bad its just that I notice these things more than most people. Any ideas on what this might be. Now the bad part my wife (who has been driving this for last 3 years) wants to trade it in for a new Grand Cherokee but looking at the trade in values, they are only bringing 8000-8500 (in this area). This seems somewhat low for a vehicle in this condition. And past experience tells me that the dealers will try to "steal" it from me only to sell it later at a premium price. My question is do I keep the Jeep and let the wife go? Ha! Ha!
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    --My question is do I keep the Jeep and let the wife go? Ha! Ha!--

    Yes! You'll definetely take a bath on trade. Many like to give $1000 under trade-in just because that's what they can buy them for at the auction all-day long. Especially when you're going to be shooting for invoice plus incentives on the new one. I would be trying to sell it outright for sure. I haven't traded a vehicle for quite awhile, and Jeeps are usually a pretty easy sell. The JGC is quite a different beast, but much more refined, smooth, quiet, (and fat IMHO). The Cherokee has the handling/drive much more like a car where the JGC feels bigger and more "minivanish" than truck. Also, consider the 4.7L V8 because the 4.0L feels like a dog in the JGC, particularly if you're used to the quickness of the Cherokee.
  • vin_weaselvin_weasel Member Posts: 237
    Any half-way decent auto shop should be able to replace the belt for much cheaper than the dealership would. Or you could pick up a Factory Service Manual from the dealership (probably about the same cost as having them replace the belt - $85-90) and do it yourself.

    The grinding noise from the back could be a few things. Have you had the fluids changed in the Transmission/Transfer Case/Differentials? Are there any leaks? If you grap the rear driveshaft by hand, do either of the ends have any play in them (up and down or side to side)?
  • sandyboysandyboy Member Posts: 114
    Yes, I love you guys on here. I was in the new-car business for many years, and you guys bring back memories of why I got out of it!
    Let's recap here for a moment!! You want to buy the new vehicle for invoice, minus incentives, both factory-to-consumer cash, as well as factory-to-dealer cash, thereby paying considerably less for your car than the actual dealer paid for it. Then you want full retail price for your trade. Actually you want over retail for it, because you want for it what you see other vehicles similiar to your advertised for in the newspaper! (You know that dealers never get those used car newspaper prices, because you know everyone negoatiates a cheaper price, but because you saw THAT price in the High Holy paper , then that's the price you want for yours.)
    Dealers are not subsidized by the Federal Govn't. nor is there a Red-Cross on top the building.
    Fellas, it's called PROFIT, free enterprise, capitalism, etc, etc. No dealer will ever pay more than wholsale for your trade, just as no jeweler will pay over wholesale for your diamond or watch. Dealers have many added expenses that you fail to recognize, such as reconditioning, giving next buyer a warrentee, advertising your trade, fixing what's busted, and...Oh Oh here it comes again....Profit, so that they are in business, when you return with a problem!
    When YOU sell it privately, from your driveway....you do not incur these expenses. Well maybe a little 3 line newspaper advertisment, but that's all. Nobody's trying to "steal" your trade-in, it's that dealers are in the Business, and you are not.
    On another note, the cheapest price is frequently NOT the best deal!! Dealers who "sell cheap" more oft than not have typically lousey service departments, and local area (other) dealers know this & will refuse to fix "their" cars, forcing their customers back to them. Buying a car is like going out to eat. Long after you pay the bill, you'll remember how the food was! Long after you have forgotten how much you paid for the car, you'll remember how the service was!!
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Well in general, you're right although the dealers have brought a lot of this onto themselves. When I think of "steal" it's more when a dealer tries to give you well under wholesale just to monkey with you. My last deal that I traded a vehicle: the new car was at an out-of-town dealer that wouldn't trade for some reason. So I go to visit the out-of-town dealer and they had basically offered up $200 over invoice (no incentives on it) before I even drove out. That was fine, except when I get there they offer me $2500 less on my trade than the local dealer was going to do (on the same near invoice deal). I told them sorry dudes, I'll just order one. They magically decided they could meet the other deal. I passed because I don't deal with crooks and they were trying to "steal" my trade plain and simple. I was going to trade a Camry last year. The dealer told me they could only give me $500 for it (high miles, but a loaded V6 nonetheless). Went to another dealer that offered $1500 for it on a near invoice deal. Bought the new car straight and sold the old one to a friend for $2500. I didn't really expect to get over $2500 on a trade but thought I'd see since they were Toyota dealers and usually know what they can get out of those cars. It was an easy $3500 sale at a dealership.

    I've had no trouble selling cars outright and usually come out far ahead. I think people think they are really get a good deal because it's a private sale, or just like not dealing with a dealer. We have quite a few vehicles personally and through my business (15 ish) and I haven't traded one since '98. Office is on a busy road so I just stick them out with a sign and that's that.
  • vin_weaselvin_weasel Member Posts: 237
    I actually had to park my brand new Jeep for 2 weeks while I was trying to sell my last car. I sold it for $5800 (having initially paid $6500 a year and 50k km previously) while the dealership I was dealing with was looking to give me $3000 and wouldn't go any higher. In my opinion, you are always better off selling your car yourself. By not trading your vehicle in, you've removed one more variable for the dealership to play with.
  • ecatecat Member Posts: 11
    after paying $70 to have my check engine light diagnosed, someone told me that in the Cherokee, you can turn the ignition on/off/on/off/on/off within 10 seconds and the check engine light will blink out a code that can be translated to what the problem is, however I tried that on my '96 and got nothing (maybe its telling me my computer is bad ).

    After discussing it with someone else, they said on their car, they had to jumper something in the fuse box in order for the built in diagnostics to work.

    Can anyone shed some light on this?
  • jh25jh25 Member Posts: 1
    97' Cherokee starts emits at 25 mph, with increasing frequency as speed increases, a rubbing sound which can be heard and felt while driving. I've noticed this sound goes away while either 1) applying light brake pressure (not enough to brake) and 2) while turning on a curved road, and the immediately returns. Noise also emitted when I put it into neutral and coast. Any guesses?
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    it's off: on-off-on-off-on leave it on and the check engine light will kick off, then start blinking. All codes are two digits with a pause in between (blinks twice, pause, blinks, three

    times, pause) = code 23. check this link:


     http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/How%20to23.htm


    Complete instructions and what the code descriptions. Check out the home page as there is tons of info about XJ's there.


    Or go to autozone, they'll do it for free.

  • bcm0030bcm0030 Member Posts: 3
    Did we strike a nerve or what. I'm talking about these dealers that want to give you wholesale and then ask for sticker price. Then they knock a grand or two off and tell you what a good deal they are giving you. Biggest liars I've ever been around are car dealers. Look you in the eye and lie to you. Fortunately around my area of the country a few dealers quit this pratice (they make a little profit on each deal) and it forced most of the others to get back in line with them. Profit is one thing but flat out screwing someone over is another. Don't expect me to feel sorry for these dealers. I cringe when I think of how bad they put it to someone who has no clue as to what they are doing.I've witnessed some of the "Profits" these people have made off of misinformed customers. Most dealers are "volume" dealers anyway. Let's see can I sell 100 cars and make $1000 on each and have people come back or sell 25 and make $4000 and have them not come back. And don't think for a minute the $4000 figure is out of range. I've bought numerous vechicles in last 10 years where I got them from $3000-$4000 less than their first offer. As far as dealers refusing to work on cars from other "cheap dealers" I have not seen that happen yet either. They are usually more than happy to take on the warranty work. What about dealer holdback money isn't this part of your "profit" too. I don't see too many dealers going bankrupt, they just keep expanding. On more than one occasion I've had to physically take my keys from these jerks as they have insulted me with their outragous offers and won't let me walk out.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I'd love for a car sales person to try that old trick with me. Cell phone, cops, citizen's arrest for theft, Channel 7 news :-).

    Hard to believe that there are still guys pulling that or throwing keys on the roof....

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • sandyboysandyboy Member Posts: 114
    Yes, to reply to your statement, a person will always do better selling their old car themself. They can ask what the dealer would ask, and sell it for the best offer that they get. No forms need be signed either. It's sold as is, where is & how is.
    Especially if it's a high mileage car/truck. I would definately suggest first trying to sell your "trade" yourself. It's really not that difficult, and well worth the effort!
  • mathteachermathteacher Member Posts: 4
    Hello everyone. I own a 98 Jeep Cherokee Sport and yesterday when taking the parking break off, the button shot out along with the spring. The button is mostly hollow inside with the exception of a cylinder that attaches on to a metal pin inside the lever. The inside of the button along the cylinder is cracked. My question is has anyone had a problem similar to this and if so, can I just buy a new button or do I have to buy the whole lever and for what cost? Let me know.
  • cherokeelmtcherokeelmt Member Posts: 22
    Hi Guy's, Yes I am a Cherrokee owner and proud to be one. I have a 99 Limited and love everything about it. Could use a glove box light though. I just wanted to put in my two cents on all this dealer talk. I am currently in sales training at a Chevy Pontiac dealer. The Training is conductded by a 25 year veteran salesman. I HATE SALESMAN! But I would like to try to sell cars. Thus far there has been no talk of how to Screw the customer. It's all about non aggressive tactics, and selling the customer on the car he/she wants. Wheather it be a base model or top line.Trying to make a sale on what they can afford, not what your wallet wants. Of Course its all about profit.There has also been no talk of sneaky tactics, just selling yourself, the dealership and the car that the customer wants. I am quite impressed so far.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    News from the "inside" is always fun - thanks! You might enjoy this article (then again, you might not, lol):


    Confessions of a Car Salesman



    Steve

    Host

    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

  • sandyboysandyboy Member Posts: 114
    YES, cherokeelmt I agree! I was amazed to find that 1999-2001 Cherokees (even Limiteds) do not have glove box lights! I asked at my service department, and they told me it was quite a job to install, and not worth the hourly rate to do. If you have the Illuminated vanity mirror, adjust it to thebrightest setting and fold forward all the way to the windshield and she'll shed some much need lite on the subject. I believe that pre-1999 Limiteds do have this!
  • fvpfvp Member Posts: 147
    Hi Everyone!

    Great reading about all your advice - keep it up!

    I own a 2001 Cherokee Sport with 13,000 miles on the clock. After reading most of the almost 800 posts on this site, I can say that our Cherokee has experienced many of the problems that were posted throughout the site.

    One issued I have not seen mentioned is engine ping. My truck pings pretty good unless I use premium gas. Anyone else with this problem or is it time to visit my friendly neighborhood Jeep Dealer again?
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    I've found mine runs best on regular and gets better mpg too. I've gotten some ping, but usually only climbing a hill with a trailer or really hammering on it. I switched to Champion truck plugs around 15K miles and that fixed any ping I was getting. I'm at 60K miles on my '01 and recently swapped the plugs again, this time using bosch platinums. Didn't really notice a difference between those and the truck plugs. You might try plugs initially as it's a pretty easy and cheap swap.
  • fvpfvp Member Posts: 147
    Thanks sebring 95 for the plug suggestion - I never thought of truck plugs. Premuim gas around here [Western PA] is about $1.60 per, so it gets pretty tiring putting $26.00 in the tank every 5 days or so.
  • boggseboggse Member Posts: 1,048
    My 98 Classic pings on 87 Octane "reformulated" fuel. If I fill up locally, I have to jump to 89 to avoid pinging. I had the dealer repogram the ECM twice to no avail. I guess I am just stuck with buying 89 Octane for now. I already run with Bosch Platinum plugs. They did not seem to make a difference.
  • cherokeelmtcherokeelmt Member Posts: 22
    Hi Guy's, just checking in on the dealer talk. I have been selling for 10 days now and witnessed a saleswoman get into a truck with a customer, hide the tag that said 17,995 go for the demo ride and the customer said " I love it what is the price?" Saleswoman:"$22,995" Customer: " Great! I'll take it!" The truck was marked up 2 grand as it was and she went up another 5 grand and he took it! My point is A: Do your homework! B: I think I have too much integrity for this job to make any kind of "real" money. Dissapointing. I did sell two cars at invoice ( What a profit in that!) oh well I'll hang in a little longer.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Wow! Did the woman have neon signs on her coat identifying her as a "Sucker" or "Loaded" or what?

    I don't think I'll ever go to a dealer again without a price in hand before I get there.

    tidester
    Host
    SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
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