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The Cherokee came with 3 different rear axles. There is sort of a rhyme and reason to the selections, but it can be random. The Dana 35 rear is very common and has an oval shape (I'm not sure if there were different versions offered over the years and if so they didn't vary by much) It will be found on any XJ with ABS. The Dana 44 (the strongest one offered) will only be found from the factory on '87 and some '88-89s. It has a strange shape with a bulge in the cover. Finally the Chrysler 8.25 axle, which came in two versions, 27 & 29 spline, was introducted in the early to mid 90's and has a sharp flat edge on the bottom. The trac-lok was offered in all three and I don't believe you can just swap one to another, they have to be the same axle type.
My Jeep is almost an upcountry. I've installed tow-hooks, and two of the three skid plates (still looking for a front in the junkyard)and the rear sway bar is in the garage. I didn't get the extra lift springs but I do have a 2" kit waiting for when I've got a little extra money and time for incidentals. I haven't noticed any change in handling or towing without the rear sway bar.
On a side note. I read some of the comments in this particular forum about chrysler service being terrible and that some cherokees basically were lemons.
ruggedness of a jeep: I formerly owned a 98 wrangler sport with a 4" lift running 33's. Stories: Stuck in mud umpteen times( only trying to get to places that no other vehicle could even attempt to go), stuck in a river(no snorkel, which will definately have on the cherokee), able to go down trails that only 4-wheelers or dirt bikes could go.
service by chrysler: except for the sheering of teeth from the rear end axle (definately my fault) that was replaced by the dealer with absolutely no questions asked, no mechanical problems whatsoever. Oh yeah, and talking to a Jeep dealer parts guy for twenty minutes about how to find out if a cherokee has trac-loc, and it was'nt even the dealer who had the cherokee for sale. Sound like bad service? Or for that matter like an undependable vehicle? There is a reason why the military used and actually still has some jeeps in service. They are bad-[non-permissible content removed] utilitarian vehicles made for dirt. Give me a break, grow up people and use your lemon laws but quit bitchin cause you will never find that perfect vehicle, unless you drive a jeep.
It seems that they've ironed out the majority of the problems during the long run of Cherokees. I've had only one mechanical item needing replacement (one of the pre-cat cats on the downpipe of the header) and a few squeaks. Now if only I could keep people from trying the steal/break into it (twice now).
cmtruran, what gear ratio/axle were you running to shear off the teeth?
"Thanks to the efforts of the Center for Auto Safety, we are able to provide you with the vehicle complaints on file with the National Highway for Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA). Each year, thousands of Americans call their government to register complaints about their vehicles. The federal government collects this information but has never released it to the general public. The complaint index is based on a ratio of the number of complaints for each vehicle to the sales of that vehicle," the rest is at www.lemonlaw.com/lemonlist.html
ealme: go to www.howstuffworks.com/catalytic-converter.htm it's a great site to learn from.
also don't forget to check your skid-plate bolts for tightness. Loose ones will cause a rattle that sounds like marbles in a can. Catalytic converters are not cheap and can't be bought used either.
link: http://www.howstuffworks.com/question482.htm
Note: While stationary, moving the front end up and down does not produce the clicking sound.
Clicking sound - as if two pieces of metal hit.
< And did this guy really know what he was talking about when he told me it was the catalytic converter?> Yes, and he sounds like a keeper since he wasn't making any $$$ off the diagnosis.
I have never had anything to do with a catalytic converter on any of my
vehicles.
I had the same problem on my '98. Would squeal like hell whenever the ac or defogger was on. Turns out it was just the belt, so check that first. Much cheaper!
I have '98 Cherokee and it tows my 14ft (a very heavy 14ft) boat just fine. Drags a little on hills though - could use more than 190 hp.
Should have checked out this forum before I bought my '98..(sigh)..oh well.
Anyway, here is my beef. Scheduled another appointment to get NEW rotors again. First time was at 36K, now need new ones at 70K. Feels like my tires are going to fly off when decelerating from 50+ on uneven pavement, as well as the whole steering column.
This is the part I don't get: when the mechanic looked at my warped rotors they said I need new ones, since they are now a composite metal & graphite material (?) and they can't be reground. But if they are composites shouldn't they not even be warping again in the first place?
I am growing wearing of my expensive repair bills on this peice of junk.
Anyway, I was looking for a place where I can buy rotors myself and maybe save some money. I checked performanceproducts.com, but they don't have rotors for my Jeep. Anyone know where else I can get them, as well as other Jeep equipment?
Thanks all, you guys are great!
I've heard mechanics say that since they are metal they heat up quick and sometimes if you would hit a puddle or something the quick change in temp would warp them.
Sounds like a pretty flimsy explanation to me, or at least cheap-[non-permissible content removed] rotors.
S A N D Y
The underlying cause of this problem is that anufacturers have elected to use cheaper parts. The rotors on my own 2001 Sport were replaced at 9,000 miles. Today I have 23,000, and no problems yet. If they start warping again, which does not seem impossible, I plan to simply pony up for decent aftermarket rotors. I shouldn't have to, but it seems like a good long term investment. I'd rather pay $200 now and forget about the whole thing than pay $150 every 20,000 miles. Can anyone suggest any good brands?
http://www.brembo.com/
Also, Performance Products sells a rear disc conversion kit. It isn't worth it in my opinion, but worth mentioning. It isn't in their online catalog, but shows up in their printed catalog which you can order for free.
http://www.performanceproducts.com/
I have 48,000 on my 98 cherokee and have had no problems with warped rotors. Most of the miles are from short, in-town trips and towing a 2,500 pound trailer.
At least I know I'm not getting screwed on parts (this time).
Yes! You'll definetely take a bath on trade. Many like to give $1000 under trade-in just because that's what they can buy them for at the auction all-day long. Especially when you're going to be shooting for invoice plus incentives on the new one. I would be trying to sell it outright for sure. I haven't traded a vehicle for quite awhile, and Jeeps are usually a pretty easy sell. The JGC is quite a different beast, but much more refined, smooth, quiet, (and fat IMHO). The Cherokee has the handling/drive much more like a car where the JGC feels bigger and more "minivanish" than truck. Also, consider the 4.7L V8 because the 4.0L feels like a dog in the JGC, particularly if you're used to the quickness of the Cherokee.
The grinding noise from the back could be a few things. Have you had the fluids changed in the Transmission/Transfer Case/Differentials? Are there any leaks? If you grap the rear driveshaft by hand, do either of the ends have any play in them (up and down or side to side)?
Let's recap here for a moment!! You want to buy the new vehicle for invoice, minus incentives, both factory-to-consumer cash, as well as factory-to-dealer cash, thereby paying considerably less for your car than the actual dealer paid for it. Then you want full retail price for your trade. Actually you want over retail for it, because you want for it what you see other vehicles similiar to your advertised for in the newspaper! (You know that dealers never get those used car newspaper prices, because you know everyone negoatiates a cheaper price, but because you saw THAT price in the High Holy paper , then that's the price you want for yours.)
Dealers are not subsidized by the Federal Govn't. nor is there a Red-Cross on top the building.
Fellas, it's called PROFIT, free enterprise, capitalism, etc, etc. No dealer will ever pay more than wholsale for your trade, just as no jeweler will pay over wholesale for your diamond or watch. Dealers have many added expenses that you fail to recognize, such as reconditioning, giving next buyer a warrentee, advertising your trade, fixing what's busted, and...Oh Oh here it comes again....Profit, so that they are in business, when you return with a problem!
When YOU sell it privately, from your driveway....you do not incur these expenses. Well maybe a little 3 line newspaper advertisment, but that's all. Nobody's trying to "steal" your trade-in, it's that dealers are in the Business, and you are not.
On another note, the cheapest price is frequently NOT the best deal!! Dealers who "sell cheap" more oft than not have typically lousey service departments, and local area (other) dealers know this & will refuse to fix "their" cars, forcing their customers back to them. Buying a car is like going out to eat. Long after you pay the bill, you'll remember how the food was! Long after you have forgotten how much you paid for the car, you'll remember how the service was!!
I've had no trouble selling cars outright and usually come out far ahead. I think people think they are really get a good deal because it's a private sale, or just like not dealing with a dealer. We have quite a few vehicles personally and through my business (15 ish) and I haven't traded one since '98. Office is on a busy road so I just stick them out with a sign and that's that.
After discussing it with someone else, they said on their car, they had to jumper something in the fuse box in order for the built in diagnostics to work.
Can anyone shed some light on this?
times, pause) = code 23. check this link:
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/How%20to23.htm
Complete instructions and what the code descriptions. Check out the home page as there is tons of info about XJ's there.
Or go to autozone, they'll do it for free.
Hard to believe that there are still guys pulling that or throwing keys on the roof....
Steve
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Especially if it's a high mileage car/truck. I would definately suggest first trying to sell your "trade" yourself. It's really not that difficult, and well worth the effort!
Confessions of a Car Salesman
Steve
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Great reading about all your advice - keep it up!
I own a 2001 Cherokee Sport with 13,000 miles on the clock. After reading most of the almost 800 posts on this site, I can say that our Cherokee has experienced many of the problems that were posted throughout the site.
One issued I have not seen mentioned is engine ping. My truck pings pretty good unless I use premium gas. Anyone else with this problem or is it time to visit my friendly neighborhood Jeep Dealer again?
I don't think I'll ever go to a dealer again without a price in hand before I get there.
tidester
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