Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/25 for details.
Options

Waxes And Polishes

17810121320

Comments

  • shomanshoman Member Posts: 97
    These types of products have been around for years. I have tried them, but always go back to a good synthetic chamois. None of the squeegie things will get in all the nooks and crannies of a car, so you have to use something anyway to finish the job. If the car is really clean, they shouldn't hurt the paint, but they will put marks in your wax from what I've seen. If you are going to wax again though, that is not a problem.

    Zaino seems to provide good protection in my evaluations. The manufacturer calls it a polish, and while most people think a polish contains abrasives, I agree that it doesn't have to, at least the definition of polish is basically to enhance the shine, which can be done with or without abrasives. Although in my experience, if you enhance a shine without abrasives, it is a more temporary "shine". To get the best longest lasting shine, you need to make the paint as smooth as possible for the best light reflection. If you do this by filling in the rough spots, then the high spots show through sooner than if you polish them away.
    The generally accepted use though, is that a polish has abrasives and provides no protection while a wax provides protection, and especially for clearcoat cars, no abrasives. But, in actual use, the terms are mixed up something awful. So you have to read and understand what you are buying.

    Don
  • FEHarperFEHarper Member Posts: 70
    I got an email from Sal Zaino himself. He says that his polish protects BETTER than ANY other wax or polish. He points out that Carnauba based waxes discolor the paint and quickly, especially in summer heat, melt or deteriorate. Zaino's polish is optically clear - does not distort the color and the gloss enhances the so-called "wet-look." Most Carnauba based waxes contain silicone oils (like Pledge furniture polish) and that, although they will shine nicely at first, will deteriorate rapidly.

    Frank
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #458

    You might even want to try testing this yourself. Use a z-1/z-2 on your windshield/and/or fav carnuba wax.... and see what you will/can see.

    As an aside, I use z-6 on my windshield.
  • domettgdomettg Member Posts: 55
    I just got a new '99 Lexus ES300 2 weeks ago with a perfect paint job. Today I just noticed some fine scratches in the clear coat on the upper rear quarter panel that were not there before. The other day we had wind gusts of 60mph that were blowing around sand like crazy. ( We just had a snow storm earlier in the week so there was still alot of sand on the roads but it was dry). I think a blast of sand might have caused this. Most of the scratches are fine and can only be seen in certain light. One of them is a little deeper and can be felt with my finger nail but is still only visible in certain light. If they are just confined to the clear coat, is there any safe way of getting them out or should I bring it to a body shop. Any help would be appreciated.
  • tmeyerstmeyers Member Posts: 7
    http://www.bimmer.org/z3/messages/

    This is where I saw the info on langka - there is
    also a search engine (search archives) on that board - if you can't find it currently - search the archives. sorry I've been out for awhile.
  • tmeyerstmeyers Member Posts: 7
    Hi everyone - I got a new car as of late - guess what color?? black of course!! It shows everything. So I get it from the dealer and under the lights in the showroom the car looks fine and - of course it is a grey day. I see it in the sun and I see light surface scratches - swirl marks perhaps?? But in any case it appears to be something that could be easily buffed out.

    I need a recommendations on this. Re: the Zaino product - do I get the Z5?? and do that first to a brand new car - or do I go straight to the Z2. These can only be seen if I get the car in the sun and look at it from the right angle etc... Will this product solve my anal retentive woes? Thanks in advance.
  • anne4anne4 Member Posts: 35
    Domettg and tymeyers: I suggest you email Sal Zaino about what to do about the scratches. You can find his email address on their webpage:
    www.zainobros.com Sal is very good about providing free advice, and he seems to know what he's talking about.
  • tmeyerstmeyers Member Posts: 7
    Sal did send me an email - unsolicited but very welcome. I appreciate that very much. He gave me a very detailed list of how to use the products etc... thanks again Sal. Tim.
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    I visited the Z3 message board and searched for all messages on Langka. It seems that some users say it works, but it takes practice. The product seems to be a thick liquid that can dissolve freshly applied touch-up paint without hurting the original paint. Laquer thinner does the same thing. If I do a touchup and it doesn't look right, I wipe the touchup paint out with a rag moistened in laquer thinner and all the touchup disappears. Next time I do touchup, I am going to try wrapping a thin cloth around a card, moistening with laquer thinner, and using that to smooth the touchup paint even to the original paint surface. This is the process used by Langka. I will just try laquer thinner in place of Langka. If that doesn't work, I'll consider the $20 for Langka and give it a try.
  • buddhaseedbuddhaseed Member Posts: 26
    Domettg and tmeyers:

    I've got a new car for just about 2 weeks, too. It is black and recently I found similar problems as you guys. If you have got solutions on your cases, would you mind to share them with me/us?

    And anyone who has been well experienced with such painful anxiety, please feel free to share how you solve it out, or even how you "pass" such a new-car hypochondriac period? Thanks!
  • shomanshoman Member Posts: 97
    How to get over new car anxiety? only time will do that for most people. First advice, don't let anyone near your car with a buffer. hand polishing with an extremely fine polish/glaze is the best way to get this type of very fine damage out. waxes can hide some of this, but it's temporary at best. Mild hand polishing with a glaze type product won't hurt your paint, and is the best permanent way to get back the shine.
    stuff bad enough to feel with a fingernail is probably there for the duration if some modest work doesn't get it out.
    Don
  • domettgdomettg Member Posts: 55
    Can someone tell me the best way to clean the clear plastic lens that covers the speedometer/guage cluster on most cars. I have scratched this up on all of my previous cars and I have yet to try and clean it on my new Lexus ES300 until I know the best way to do this.

    Thanks in advance
  • shomanshoman Member Posts: 97
    Meguiars makes a plastic polish that works very well on clear plastic and it also makes plastic headlight and tailight lenses look much better.

    Another trick is to use Zaino Z-6 detailer spray. I have found this works very well on dash lenses.

    Don
  • ruskiruski Member Posts: 1,566
    I have used Zaino's Z-14 and then Z-6 on my 300M's and GTP's headlight/taillight plastic lenses and they look really nice now. When looking straight into the headlight (lights off :) it almost seems that there is no plastic surface there. When looking from a side, the plastic lenses have a nice satiny glow.

    I have used some Z-14 plastic-magic cleaner and polish on my GTP's gauge cluster lense and it worked well. I am thinking about touching it up with Z-6... ahhh what the heck, why not?
  • pblevinepblevine Member Posts: 858
    Z6 on plastic? Never heard of doing that but I will test out the concept. It could prove very handy for plastic headlight covers.

    I have used the Zaino Glass Polish on my windows with great results. It did a wonderful job of clearing the new plastic vapor residue from my windshield. And it made the outside glass really clear. Prior to Zaino, I had to keep my defroster on constantly during a rain storm. Afterwards, a single 5 minute application of the defroster (to dehumidify the inside air) is all I seem to need.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #471
    While it is not as long lasting as say rain x, I use z-6 on windows also. Z-1, z-2, also work very well on plastic as well as rubber gaskets. So if you are so inclined, use of z-1 and z-2 works. If you want to specialize use the appropriate z-6 and z-14 which keeps things well cared for.
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    What about the plastic woodgrain used on dashes? Mine is the shiny variety. What can be used to keep it looking good?
  • shomanshoman Member Posts: 97
    Vinylex or Meguiar's vinyl cleaner/conditioner will work well. Spray on a cloth and then wipe the surface down. Flip to a dry portion of the cloth and wipe again to prevent too much shine.

    Don
  • ruskiruski Member Posts: 1,566
    I imagine that Zaino plastic-magic Z-14 can work well on the fake wood.
  • domettgdomettg Member Posts: 55
    The console wood in my Lexus is real walnut. It is extremely shiny so I assume it must be coated with polyurethane. There are some very fine scratches in it that I think are just confined to the polyurethane. I would guess that just taking a rag and wiping the dust off will cause this. Is there anything that will take out the scratches, again, they are very fine and only visible in very bright daylight at certain angles. Also, if I get the scratches out, what is the best way to clean/maintain this?
    Thanks,

    Tom
  • kate12kate12 Member Posts: 18
    Hi Everyone,
    Well my Odyssey came in this last Saturday and I hope to Zaino my van this weekend. It is supposed to be in the 40's this weekend but I hope the garage is a little warmer. Decided not to get a professional heater. Was afraid I would set the garage on fire. Wish I could get something electric which would put out enough heat. Will let everyone know how it went.
  • RichIITFRichIITF Member Posts: 17
    I have read from detail experts that "carnauba" based waxes/polishes can discolor a car's finish. Also, I have heard that this discoloration is due to the yellow color that is found in carnauba's natural state. Well, people have some news for you! I recently contacted Malms regarding the above statement and this is what they responded with.
    My question to Malms:
    " I have read that products that are carnauba based can actually discolor a car's finish especially white cars. There is supposely a build up of yellow carnauba on the finish after a lengthy use of the product." Their Reply " This did occur when waxes were first developed using Carnauba. 60 or more years ago. With modern Carnauba wax formulations this is not a problem at all. How valid is this statement and could it be true with the use of your products? NO"

    www.malms.com

    The above statement definitely contradicts some info I received from Sal Z. and others.
  • pblevinepblevine Member Posts: 858
    Question: When you open your can of wax, what color is it? Also, what are the optical qualities of the finish afte application? No doubt there are many other fine products on the market, but the Z1 and Z2 products by Zaino rank extremely high with regard to these qualities.
  • GischpelGischpel Member Posts: 133
    If you sold carnuba based waxes, would you say anything but "No" to your question? C'mon... What did you expect? They also don't provide much of an explanation beyond "changes in formulation" for why the answer is No. I'd like a little more detail...

    Even if the answer is No (and it could be I am just playing Devil's Advocate), it would hold more value from an independent source rather than from someone that stands to benefit from it being true. Others have added their opinions here, Sal has offered his to you and now you have this response from Malms. You have to find value from those opinions knowing there is a vested interest behind some of the comments.

    Terry
  • rfoxnerfoxne Member Posts: 4
    I haven't been able to find 'Clay Magic' in my area, but did find Meguir's Clean'n Smooth on close out. It is a clay bar (1.5 x 3 x 1 in.) and a bottle of quick detailer to use as lube for the clay. It says to pull off 1/3 of the clay and knead into a palm size pancake. I broke off 1/3 of the bar, but kneading it did't soften it up enough to be able to flatten it out. The clay was so hard, the only way I could flatten it was to heat the clay in the microwave, put it in a baggie, put a small board on top, and step on it with all my weight! As I clayed my car, I had to keep doing this as the bar got dirty. Is Clay Magic or Erazer clay softer or easier to work with, or is this normal?
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #478
    All you have to do is put Malms/Zaino and or both or either on your windshield as you would a normal body panel. Then you could see for yourself the optical qualities of which you spoke.
  • guitarzanguitarzan Member Posts: 873
    Clay should be easily formable. Perhaps that stuff is old and dried out. It does need to be kept moist. Many of us here have used Clay Magic and Erazer, both with no problems.
  • lancehlanceh Member Posts: 9
    Well, from my experience, I'd say that the Clay Magic was malleable (sp?), but not without some real effort. This comes from someone with very large, strong hands.

    Maybe I got hold of some older stuff? All I know is that the repeated folding made the process a little more arduous than I anticipated.
  • dsomersdsomers Member Posts: 20
    Part of the reason is that there are different grades of carnauba wax -- yellow and white. The layer you put on your car is so thin, any color change is negligible with yellow or white. That said, Zaino does produce a nice shine and seems to hold up fairly well. The bottom line is, use what you like best. There are alot of quality products available. You need to balance ease of application, cost, shine and durability as these apply to ** your needs **. Don't allow vendor hype to influence you. Shine up your car and then go drive it! Much better than stressing about "waxy yellow buildup"!
  • petitpetit Member Posts: 4
    I don't find this thread very informative. Instead, I find a few zealots who think nothing about washing and waxing their cars with n-step 'systems' every week.

    What about the rest of us: There are several waxes/polishes on the market that promise up to 12 months of protection... are these for real?

    A wax job on my car takes about 2 hours, my van takes about 3... I just don't have time to fuss over wax jobs.

    So for the real world (twice a year waxing), what is the best choice for environmental protection and appearance?
  • shomanshoman Member Posts: 97
    Since I do have a vested interest, but I don't manufacture, I sell what I like and what I know works. I like and use Collinite 915 Marque d'Elegance Carnauba. It is made from white carnauba and has less "color" in it than most other products uncluding Zaino. Putting it on windows is not recommended, not because it would "color" anything, but because wax just isn't the right product for that surface.
    If color in the liquid or paste product was a real "issue" then Zaino would be no better than any others since it has as much "color" as anything else on my shelf and more than Collinite. But I don't think that if I put the colored Zaino on my car it will turn the car that color, any more than an almost transparent Carnauba wax will.
    About real world products. I have never found any product that will offer true full year protection, and I don't know of any product promoted here that will do that either. 3-6 months is about the limit for most products without some sort of additional process. There are lots of products that will do a good job with just one process. But for the best shine I firmly believe you should at least "polish" your paint to smooth it out, and then put on a wax for protection. As mentioned before, some products use the terms for different processes.
    It's not necessary to clay, prep, polish,wax,coat/etc,etc to just get a decent shine and protect your car. A good product used two to three times a year with careful washing inbetween is fine for most cars.
    For a decent one-step product, Meguiars sells a cleaner/wax that is similar to many other products on the market that contains a mild abrasive to get rid of haze/minor marks and a wax for protection. I believe this is a compromise, but if time is money and you need shine/protection in one step, and you haven't been brainwashed by now on this site, ;) this product (which I don't sell) is probably what you are looking for. Check out the Meguiars site for some idea's.

    Don
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #486
    Perhaps the approximately 1000 posts have waxed too poetically over the ability to separate wax from fiction??...(see CD rom "Bob Hopes" rejected jokes.)

    More to the point; given current EPA guidelines, the boundary seems to be 6 months of coating protection; to product inferior paint. Using side by side 24/7 UNSCIENTIFIC TESTING products like Meguairs polish with #26 carnuba wax lasted at most 1.5 mos as opposed to Zaino, Z-1, and Z-2 that has lasted going on 6 mo.

    It is truly up to you!! I know what I have used..
    I also know what I prefer. If you do the math and still select the ones that last 1.5 mos or promise 12 mo protection....??? What can I say?
  • jvcnjvcn Member Posts: 50
    Let me ask an ignorant question:

    Shouldn't the ideal be a long lasting protectant that also comes off easily?

    I mean, imagine that you could have another layer of clear coat that was better than the first. This coat would scratch and that would be difficult to correct easily. A scratch in the wax would go with the wax.

    What I'm trying to ask in a clumsy way is: Do the polymers like Zaino and Finish First become new "skins" which then need protection themselves?

    If they layer as you apply, then I presume they act as a second clear coat, and would be difficult to remove quickly as scratches and crud abrade the surface.

    One thing that bothered me in the TEST between Zaino and Collinite is that washing off the Zaino completely to present a clean surface for testing seemed to be difficult. A much earlier post talked about using detergent several times to get it all off in another context.

    I suppose the ideal protectant would last like a polymer but could be instantly removed in a simple wash when exposed to the right "antidote".

    I'll have to make the decision to plunge in (or not) when I run out of Meguiar's Liquid Gold Wax, but the whole polymer business has me puzzled and just a tad worried.

    thanks for tolerating my rambling.
  • sebargesebarge Member Posts: 50
    Today was a beautiful day and I was outside peering at the small chips in the paint of my '98 Sebring JXi candy apple red convertible. I had just finished applying the color touchup, and felt pretty good about the look. I got in real close to apply the clear coat touchup, finished w/ that and felt it all looked decent. Stepped back, and noticed a puddle of water on the top part of right front bumper that was rolling down the bumper. Went to wipe it off, and oddly enough, it didn't wipe off. It was the clear coat paint!! I had been so intent on applying the paint to the scratches that I forgot what was in my hand - an opened bottle of touch up. Oh, it looked horrible, all smeary and caked-on looking. I turned to the right, I turned to the left, I turned all way around and looked into the garage. Quick, what should I do? I washed it w/ soap & H2O, but didn't help a bit. So, I ran to the shelf and grabbed my Erazer clay and lubricant, and sat down to clay. Thank you Lord, it worked. Slowly, the clear paint came off. I may have left some slight spidery scratches on the bumper, but the the clay took off the clear coat. Wow, I was frantic!!
    Still don't know what I should have done, but the clay did the trick. I followed up w/ some wax and it's smooth and shiny again. Did I say "Thank you Lord"? Whew. Ya'll don't know how worried I was; it was a mess!
    Lesson to all. Pay attention to what's in the other hand, too!!
  • kate12kate12 Member Posts: 18
    Hi Everyone,
    Well it was a beautiful day in Ohio yesterday and I finally had the opportunity to Zaino my new dark blue Honda Odyssey. Today I have to remove the Z-2 I left on my van overnight. Applying Z-1 and Z-2 was very easy but doing the prep work before hand was a bear. Thank heaven the prep work only has to be done once a year.
    I dawned, clayed, washed with the Zaino car wash, then applied Z-1, then Z-2. For those who are not sure whether or not to buy Zaino, truthfully I don't think it was that bad and I have a big..... van. The initial prep work was the aggravating thing but you only have to dawn, clay, and Z-1 once a year. The rest of the year you just have to wash then wax when you feel there is a need. Boy if I had a little Honda this process would be a breeze. To each his own, however. Buy whatever suites your needs.
    Question- For those who Zaionoed their vans. How much of Z-1 and Z-2 did you actually apply? I applied about 2 oz of Z-1, and 2oz of Z-2. I found the z-1 a little difficult to see because I was applying the product at night in the garage with limited lighting. I didn't see much of a glaze. When applying Z-2, that was very easy to see and I had no problem wondering if I had enough on the van. If I didn't have two children to care for, I would have had the time to apply everything outside in the day light. I am just wondering if I applied enough Z-1 for the size of my vehicle. Please respond. Thanks.
  • shomanshoman Member Posts: 97
    JVCN,
    You have the right idea. The real purpose of any wax product (or polish if it provides protection) is to give of itself so that your paint may live a longer life. No product out there is permanent, otherwise, the factory would use it instead of paint! ;)
    As the wax/polish wears off, you need to replace it.
    I don't think there is any need to worry about any polymer type products needing their own protection. They will give up their own lives like any other product to protect your paint. They will need "renewing" at some point to provide proper protection.
    As that protective layer wears away, the smoother your paint is underneath, the longer the "shine" will last. If your paint underneath is not in good shape, then the protection starts to wear away leaving the peaks "peeking" through making your shine old before it's time.
    Most good products cannot be removed by a single "wash". Certainly my car with several months on the Carnauba over the winter is still beading and shining and slick. It is ready for a new coat, but no regular wash product (be it car wash, or household detergent) is going to strip everything off in one "wash".
    Also, it's not really necessary to completely remove wax between waxings. If you get the surface clean (which most dedicated car "wash" products don't really do in my experience, I recommend a mild solution of Liquid Ivory as a regular wash product), you can re-wax without worry. Using clay on a regular basis is a good idea. It also will remove some of your wax, but not all.

    Don
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #493

    Yes, please dont tell folks how easy Zaino really is to apply and to maintain. They might think of converting...

    In terms of application; aim for .75-1 oz of z-1 and .75-1 oz of Z-2. That will be a good balance. I did that for a toyota landcruiser. (so you can gauge against your van.) Water or z-6 on the applicator cuts down on product absorption or waste, and helps to glide it to the finish a bit easier.
  • jxyoungjxyoung Member Posts: 156
    It appears that there is a place to get Zaino with a credit card. Has anyone used this site to get their Zaino? It looks like you have to call to order! Indiana's Zaino Distributor?

    http://www.bluemarble.net/~dlharden/glossboss.htm
  • kate12kate12 Member Posts: 18
    Hi Everyone,
    I just wanted to say how absolutely beautiful my Odyssey van is now that I have used Zaino. Yesterday, I rubbed off the Z-2 off the van and it was amazing how nice it looked. What a reflection!!! Then I sprayed and wiped off the Z-6 enhancer spray and it got even better!!!!! For those who are skeptical about this product, please don't be and it is not that hard to put on!! If I can put it on, a 34yr.old mother of two, than anybody can. Don't get it intimidated by all the technobabble on this chat site. Just follow the directions. Also, if you have any questions about this product, just call Sal Zaino up. I called him twice on a few things and he was very nice and talk me through it.
    One thing that I would recommend is that to transfer some of your Z-6 into a different spray bottle which would produce a fine mist on your car. Sal readily admits that his spray bottle doesn't work very well. He has gone through three companies trying to finds a sprayer that works. It is true that you need only a minute amount of Z-6 to do the job. 1oz. for my entire van. Buy a cheap sprayer at a department store and use that. I gave some info to Sal where my sprayer came from. Maybe he will find a good company and do a little switch on the spray bottle.
    Sal, if you read this post, I just wanted to say you have a customer for life!!! Please take care of your health. I want your product to be around as long as I am. Another 50 years and then some.
    DON'T BE AFRAID TO USE THIS PRODUCT!! If you saw it on your car you would use nothing else. And no I am not getting paid for this testimonial.
  • ruskiruski Member Posts: 1,566
    I was able to tune my Z-6 bottle to produce fine mist - I open the nozzle just a little bit.

    On the other hand, after doing two coats of Zaino on my 98 Grand Prix GTP, almost the whole bottle of Z-6 is gone. All I did was spray a bit and wipe, spray a bit and whipe (body and wheels).
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #498
    The problem with the bottles is not with the bottles, but for the need of the product not to be misted, but to be almost atomized, which would probably drive the cost of the packaging past the cost of the product.
  • wstangwstang Member Posts: 35
    Hi,

    What is the best way to dry up your car quickly, efficiently and safely (to the paint) after a drizzle or downpour?
    I used the 100% cotton towels to wipe off the water. But they are not very absorbant. Water droplets are removed (so that it won't leave water spots when it is dry), but the fabric of the towels leave behind some fine trails or lines of water. These leave some marks when it is dried, although not as bad and evident as the water spots would.
    And since the car could be dusty, the best measure must be one that does not need to drag or rub against the paint surface to remove the water.
    Synthectic Chamois seemed to be quite good, but I heard opinions that it might drag the dirt across and scratch the surface.
    Any recommendations?
    Thanks.
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    kate 12-

    I readily agree with you! When I first read about Zaino here MANY months ago, I was VERY skeptical! It sounded like an infomercial to me. However, the more I read, the more curious I became.

    I have a Candy Apple Red Chrysler 300M. At the time I started here in Edmunds, I was using Meguiars Medallion Car Wax. I just could NOT believe that my car could shine more than it did at that time. I think the thing that really got me was everyone talking about that "wet-looking" shine. I decided to take the plunge and order all the necessary products. I also said that I would post my results- good or bad! Well, the rest is history. In my 37 years of waxing my new cars, I have to say that this is the best product that I have ever used to date AND the best smelling! ;-)) Granted I have not used EVERYTHING on the market, but a fair share for sure!

    Some people seem to make a project out of applying Zaino. I agree that the initial application may be tricky especially if you have to clay the car. However, the hardest part about using Zaino is getting just the RIGHT amount of material on the applicator. Once you get the hang of that, you're home free!

    I understand that the weather has a lot to do with the drying time, but even in the summer here in CT I have NEVER had to leave the wax on overnight! I don't start applying it at the crack of dawn either. I have applied Z-2 and Z-6 in temps as low as 40 in the sun with no breeze or a slight breeze. By the time I am finished applying the Z-2, the first part is already dry! As long as the wax doesn't smear when you rub it, it's ready to be wiped off. As for the Z-6, at 40 degrees, you don't even need another towel to wipe it off. As you wipe it on, it dries to a brilliant shine with NO streaks or smears.

    I'm sure that others here will not agree with me, but I really don't care. To each his own I say. It doesn't put any more in my pocket whether they use Zaino or not. I know what my car looks like, I know the comments that I have received on the shine and I know how little effort is involved in keeping it looking like it just came off the showroom floor- minus all the scratches the dealer puts on it when you first get it.

    My car will be a year old in June. It looks just as good today as it did then. It is driven every day and garaged at night. I wish I could say the same for the way it runs, but that's a whole other story.

    Just my two cents worth as usual.

    fastdriver
  • gulatigulati Member Posts: 1
    Sorry if this is a repeat question. I'm looking for a safe stripper to remove the waxy film on my car. Any suggestions?
  • pblevinepblevine Member Posts: 858
    gulati,
    Try good ole Dawn dishwashing liquid.

    fastdrive at all,
    This is a real need to know:
    1. How long do I have to wait after applying Z1 before I apply Z2 over it? Again, I'll be doing this in Otis, MA which is above your CT location.

    2. How long (or really how quickly) do I have to wait after applying the first coat of Z2 before wiping off AND

    3. How quickly can I apply the second coat of Z2 after wiping off the first Z2 coat. And yes, I understand that I should use the Z6 spray before applying the second Z2 coat.
  • ruskiruski Member Posts: 1,566
    gulati - use dawn to wash the car and then use clay

    fastdriver - the instructions say to wipe off Z-6 and not let it dry by itself.

    pblevine - you can start applying Z-2 as soon as you are finished applying Z-1. You have to wait until Z-2 dries well before you wipe it off, and that depends on the ambient temperature and humidity.

    Is it necessary to apply Z-6 between coats?
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #500
    First, I would not do it!! The thought of dragging hidden dirt particles without a suspension buffer, gives me the willies. If you wanted to do it just understand it dramatically increases the chances of minute scratches. The next intermediate step would be to hose off the rain water, which normally is too much work. If you are going to do that you are one/third the way into a car wash?
    Another step, would be to use an leaf blower, for in theory it imparts no solid particles to the surface. Well if you have done this you are also two thirds into a full blown car wash.
  • DarknessDarkness Member Posts: 24
    Hey all,
    I own a 99 mitsu BLACK Eclipse, which as anyone knows is beyond a pain to keep clean. Anyhow, Now that the weather is nicer I've been z'ing my car... and I noticed that appearingly below the surface (After 3 coats of Z2 have been applied) there is some kind of yellowish streak / tint on the hood only. I asked some people and they notice it as well, it doesn't take away from the shine itself, just the color, any way to get rid of this? I followed all the necessary steps as I am a follow of Zaino from the very beginning. Any comments on how to remove it or the cause? Can I keep Z-2'ing (I also know that after every 5-7 coats another Z-1 should be applied). Thanks in advance...
    -The Darkness
This discussion has been closed.