Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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Waxes And Polishes
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I'd wash my car after rain... both because of dissolved solids being deposited on the car, and from possible raid acidity. I wouldn't just dry it off--the rain probably didn't wash off most of the dirt on your car, so you'll probably scratch no matter what you use.
That said, I've come to like the Absorber for drying my car.
pblevine:
1) Apply Z1 when the Z1 hazes. The hazing is quite subtle, so you'll need to have have good light in order to see it.
2) time to wipe off the Z2 varies depending upon the temperature and humidity. BE FOREWARNED that the time is a LOT longer when you apply it over the Z1. Several times longer. I did it a few days ago, when it was cool and wet out, and waiting overnight wasn't long enough (night temps in the 30s, some fog). Subsequently, w/o the Z1, the time needed before you remove the Z2 is much less. Test a small area--if it doesn't smear (i.e., looks like you spread olive oil over your finish), it's fine. Remove smears with a damp towel.
3) 24 hours between coats.
I am afraid I did not put enough Z-1 or missed some areas the first time.
Marbuck, I SINCERELY doubt that, especially since my car isn't being driven at this time, and if it is driven, it literally ONLY around the block, it doesn't have insurance right now so it's just.. literally.. sitting pretty.
Anyhow, I sincerely believe it's the Z-6, because when I was wiping the z-6 off the car after the third coat, it left the same color mark as I was wiping it (before I had wiped the final time) and I even let some dry and it had the same reaction. So it was probably a misuse of Z-6... my bad. Thanks all for your responses, I will let you know when I strip and reapply.
-The darkness
Actually the Iron Pyrite formation is only the beginning of the problem. Within a few hours there is a abberation of the inner-molecular bonding which transmutes the sub-atomic nuclear particles into bondo plasticised magnetized warp statification.
Hope this helps.
Thanks, and I'll try moving the Coupe inside after dark to let the Z2 dry. Everyone say 24 hours between Z2 coats. Ok, I'll observe that but why? And/or why not 12 hours. What's happening during this period?
Markbuck,
Iron Pyrite? No, its the yellow snow deposit by way of the local mutt!
Does anyone out their have any useful information, such as:
Does a static strap help keep your car clean?
Does a 'sheeting' coating work better than a wax coating to prevent beading of water and subsequent leapord spotting?
Do any of the 'scratch removers' actually work?
Do one-step wash/waxes work (the theory being to wash the car once a week rather than wax it twice a year)?
Are waxes required at all as a protectant now that clearcoats are designed to absorb UV?
Are waxes better than polymer protectants?
What exactly do new car vendors recommend?
We need some experts/teachers to comment.
Static straps. they performed a real function when people put clear plastic seat covers and interior fabrics were high static nylon. Todays fabrics and lack of (thankfully) clear plastic covers makes them unnecessary.
"Sheeting" products generally don't work. You can sheet water off a highly waxed car with any product if you just use a thick stream of water instead of a spray to rinse. Some sheeting products simply leave your paint unprotected in order to give that effect. Most of the TV advertised products like you mention, are scams at best and horrible for your car at worst.
Scratch removers, do they work? No
One step wash/wax products, do they work? No
protection required on clearcoat? Yes, clearcost is simply paint with no pigment. It still weathers and can fail like any paint. You must keep it smooth and protected for it to shine and last.
Waxes/vs/polymers My personal opinion is that there isn't any real advantage, each has it's own advocates. Let common sense and your own trials be your guide. I think there are excellent products in each category.
New car vendors (manufacturers/dealers) usually recommend what the manufacturer sells or whatever product the dealer got a deal on that month. These people generally are not the best source for this information.
Don
I've used Zaino for a couple of months; Duragloss for a couple of years. IMHO, Duragloss is cheaper, more widely available, shines as well as Zaino, and is less time-consuming than Zaino. As for durability, I completed a half and half test on my new Odyssey two weeks ago. As I said, the shine is equal; I'll keep you posted on durability.
BTW, the web site for Duragloss is
http://www.spyder.net/duragloss/
Best of success to you.
I also saw that Rain-X jumped in and developed their own car polish.
Has anyone tried these yet?
http://www.meguiars.com/endurance/endurance.cfm
Zaino really works and I highly recommend it. I did my car ('98 Accord Coupe EX V6 Emerald Green) up in Otis, MA where it gets cold. I started about 9:00am and was finished about 3:00pm. It doesn't take that long normally but the colder air
prolonged the drying process. It took about 2.5 hours for the Z2 to dry under these conditions.
I washed with Dawn and then "clayed" the car with Erazer. They sent me a sample of their new Yellow Clay along with the normal grey stuff. The grey clay works well, but its a little too sticky on plastic bumper surfaces. The Yellow Clay was much better on these surfaces. Its not as tackly but much harder to reshape. The grey stuff was much better on my wheels. And wow, the amount of gunk that the clay picked up from my wheels (after being washed with Dawn) was amazing!
I then washed with Dawn again, dried the car, and applied a layer of Z1. By the way, I used a little Z6 to dampen the applicator. 'Not sure if that was correct. After letting the Z1 dry (and yes, it is rather hard to tell when it's dry), I then applied the first coat of Z2. Given this was a first coat over Z1 plus the cold (mid 40's plus wind chill), it seemed to take forever to dry. I went and took a shower, came back, and it still needed more time. Maybe I should have waited for a warmer day. Anyway, I finally used my brand new pure cotton towels to wipe the hazed Z2 off. W W W 0 0 0 0 W W W!
It is beautiful and worth the effort! The shine is absolutely clear, deep, and smoooooth! And smells good too. (My wife: please keep that stuff out of the trunk!). I waited 24 hours, but it was just to cold to put a second coat of Z2 on the car. I really wanted a second coat, but that will just have to wait for another weekend. Even so, this is far better than any wax I've ever used. With just one coat, the effect is about the same as Ruski's pictures. My car has that green over black undercoat paint concept. With wax, its hard to see the green highlights and the finish looks blue in dark shade. After using Zaino, the green highlight really stands out. Thanks Sol.
http://www.meguiars.com/endurance/endurance.cfm
Also learned a lesson with Z-6. After initial over-usage of Z-6 I only had 1 ounce of it left. However it lasted much longer this time. Instead of sqeezing the trigger all the way, I squeezed it very lightly and it still sprayed enough stuff for an area.
Am I suppsosed to remove all that stuff from the clay bar BEFORE using on the next area of my car ? If so, how does one do that or you simply reshape the clay and resuse it ? Thanks.
If you all recall the post I wrote about the "streaking" in the hood of my car (And various puns were mentioned, being april fools and all), the problem is solved. Last night around midnight, I stripped the wax, clayed, washed, and recoated the car... around 10am today I cleaned off the excess wax and there was no streaks... I then applied the Z-6.. that was where the problem was. I wasn't getting it off quick enough, anyone that owns a black car knows how hot the hood can get on a warm sunny day.. well, what was happening was the Z-6 was drying before I could get to it... literally within micro seconds...
There are a couple of ways to solve this problem, as I did speak to Sal, Thanks again, you were more then supportive, and I'll take you out for a beer when your up for it. Anyhow, to solve the problem either dilute the Z-6 and grow lightning fast hands, or do it at night. Also you can do it during a warm sunny day but a VERY VERY VERY small amount of Z-6 and A LOT more rubbing it down... BE SURE that it's all off, and stare at your car for awhile, making sure that there is NOTHING left, otherwise you can trap it under coats. I simply used smaller amounts and a smaller area and it seems to be working like a charm.. thanks to all who commented... and screw all molecular bonding comments. :P
-The Darkness
If you Zaino over wax, you will trap dirty wax under the coat of Zaino. And even if the wax is not dirty, still it is not as shiny or transparent as Zaino. And that layer of wax underneath will spoil the visual effects that Zaino creates.
Do it right, you will not regret an extra hour you spend on Dawning and claying.
Question: Before I apply another coat of Z2, I'll wash with the Z7 mild car wash. Should I then use Z6 before applying the Z2? Or am I covered with the Z7 wash?
By the way, thanks for all the good comments and advice form all.
I then took the Z-6 to my 300M that was Zaino-ed a few days ago with a few coats of Z-5 and Z-2, but no Z-6 which had run out. What a shine!
Am I Zaino-ed in the head or what?
I was playing with Meguiar's spray detailer and liked the spraying action of their bottle. I might re-use that bottle and fill it up with Z-6.
Those pictures of your 300M are terrrific! You've done well. Z6 is great stuff. My Erazer Clay came with two spray bottles which have a good misting ability, and I think I'll use one of them for my Z6.
Again, after washing with Z7, should I use Z6 prior to applying another coat of Z2?
Those pictures of 300M are after a few coats of Z-5 and Z-2, however Z-6 ran out back then and the last coat of Z-2 did not get a Z-6 treatment. I took the pictures anyway.
I think using Z-6 before washing your car with Z-7 is an overkill, but I don't think it will hurt.
Does anyone have any comments or know if this stuff is any good? It's slightly less expensive than Meguiar's and Mothers.
One particular question I had was regarding Simoniz's wash, which has teflon in it... is this good or bad?
I would recommend you have nothing to do with a product with teflon in it. Teflon as an oil additive has been proven to do more damage than good because it tends to plug up oil filters! If it won't fit through an oil filter, I don't think I want it IN my wash or polish!
To get your car clean I recommend Ivory dishwashing liquid. A tiny squirt in a large bucket of water will get your car clean with lots of healthy suds (suds help keep dirt away from your paint) and it won't remove all of your current wax, any more than any other washing process. The goal of washing is to CLEAN not to wax or keep eggs from sticking when cooked!
Don
it won't fit through an oil filter, I don't think I want it IN my wash or polish!"). Aren't you the Collonite fan??? I don't think carnauba fits through an oil filter.
Thanks, Joe
Actually, either way would work. But... try a spot with clay and you might decide it is worth the extra work.
I have Zaino on white and a thing called moonglow pearl The white is a more shiny white and the moonglow (toyota ease for metallic blue) is very very deep.
Guitarzan is right, rail dust will be present. It may be almost microscopic but its there. Take a damp paper towel and run it over your "clean" hood and maybe you'll be able to see some. In any case, claying will pick up even what a towel cannot, and the surface of your car will be much smoother. I had the same concerns with my new car, and I'm glad I invested the time to clay it.
As for your concern about the "light silver" color of your car, Zaino will really make it stand out. The effect is the same for darker colors too. And that effect is a truly "clear" shine which brings out the true color of the car's paint.