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Comments
i'd say if this arrangement exists (alcan could help us out here - i don't know what they use in cars) its possible you may have an issue with the gap between the ring and its tooth/teeth and the sensor (perhaps it's mount) growing or getting larger as the vehicle warms up.
if the gap becomes larger, the signal generated by the probe may no longer be regular or strong enough to create a stable pulse train which the electronics detect, process, and convert into vehicle speed.
in short - yes.
Automotive passive speed sensors (wheel speed, trans input and output speed) are simple permanent magnet AC signal generators which depend on the disruption of the magnetic flux surrounding a magnet to induce an AC voltage signal into the windings surrounding the magnet. Frequency is translated into speed, amplitude is used for for self diagnostics. Active sensors (some newer vehicle wheel speed sensors) are Hall effect devices which produce a square wave, the frequency of which is directly proportional to RPM.
"if the gap becomes larger, the signal generated by the probe may no longer be regular or strong enough to create a stable pulse train which the electronics detect, process, and convert into vehicle speed."
If the air gap increases the issue isn't with frequency, which remains stable at a given RPM, but with voltage level or amplitude which drops to a level below which the processor can use, and initiates a system self-check.
In any event, any 3rd year apprentice should be able to hook up an oscilliscope and check the sensor output. It ain't rocket science.
Have you had your car's vibration problem resolved? I am anxious to know your solution if you have it, as my Lexus 3.0 has very similar phenominon as yours.
Thanks!
a bmw tech suggested i change the centre prop bearing,which i did but noise is still there,there is no play on front wheel bearings and noise does not go when turning,sounds worse when in second and third gears and you are driving through the gears slowley,engine still has plenty of power and you cant hear the noise if you drive hard and fast through the gears,can anybody please help.cheers adam.
Tried setting the adjustment of the shifter linkage, checked all the wires, fluid level, no help. The ring gear/torque converter bolts were too close to the engine,and tapped on the inspection
cover when it ran.I unbolted the ring gear/converter, & in park the wheels turn in opposite directions, in all other gears only the turned wheel moves, never turning the converter.
Auto trans, 1.6 eng.; have I sheared gears, a pin, etc., any way to check? Thanks.
If the trans worked before the engine swap, you've either put the flex plate on backwards, or didn't have the converter hub all the way in and engaged with the drive gear of the trans oil pump in which case you've probably torn the pump up. Start by hooking up an oil pressure gauge to the trans test port. If it reads zero, the trans is coming back out.
"I unbolted the ring gear/converter, & in park the wheels turn in opposite directions, in all other gears only the turned wheel moves, never turning the converter."
It won't. There's no mechanical connection between the converter housing and the trans input shaft at any time other than when the lockup clutch applies, and there's no connection between the trans input and output shafts unless the engine's running and driving the trans pump. Hydraulic pressure from the pump applies clutches and bands to put the trans in gear, otherwise you have neutral.Turning the wheels just turns the trans output shaft and some of the internal gears.
Engine starts with high idle at 2000+rpms. When I shift from 1st to 2nd(or any others), the rpms increase to 3000 until the clutch is left out then back to 2000. When coming to a stop, I push in the clutch and downshift the rpms increse with each downshift and at stop the engine revs and goes to 2000+. Also, if I leave it in gear and slow down with the brakes it will go to low rpms under 2000 but as soon as the clutch is in, it revvs up to 3000. Also revving the engine and/or pulling up on the gas pedal seem to have no effect on the rpms; depressing the clutch pedal a few times seems to have no effect either when at a stop.
I have requested the parts replaced because they were not the problem. I do not know what to do and at a loss of $1000!
Does anyone think this is a throttle positioning prob or throttle sensor?
Items replaced:
Gasket IN, Gasket COM, Stabilizer, Changed oil & filter, IAC. PCV, Sensor AS, and MOD ( some kind of computer motor).
My 2003 Sable has been very reliable but it has one very annoying issue:
When the car is cold and I back the car out of the driveway (maybe 20 feet) after I turn the car off it will burp out a small amount (maybe a couple of spoonfuls) of transmission fluid out of the vent. Since my driveway is concrete, the transmission fluid makes a messy sight.
The car doesn't do this when it is not cold. I have checked the transmission fluid level (when thoroughly warmed up, with the engine running parked, on level ground) and the transmission is not overfilled.
Any suggestions as to what is going on ? And how I may fix this issue ?
SYMTPOM: Fluid Venting Or Foaming
Transmission vent blocked.
Transmission overfilled.
Fluid contaminated with antifreeze or water.
Transmission overheating.
Filter damaged or improperly installed.
I'd go for a used transmission myself, plus you'll need a new clutch, pressure plate and T.O bearing, plus clutch fluid and the labor for all this.
So......
Figure a used tranny is about $800
http://www.asapmotors.com/used-bmw-engines-transmissions.htm
then we'll have probably 6 hours labor, so $600
then clutch parts, etc. maybe $300
So figure $1,500---$2,000 for everything.
Given that the car, in average condition with a good transmission, is worth may be $2,500, you see the problem.
Is this a transmission problem?
Thanks for any feedback.
Thank You
Sometimes people will trade in cars with this problem. They make real sure the car is good and warmed up when they bring them in.
We find out the next morning when we go to move the car.
the transmission will not shift out of 2nd to 3 or 4th...
but when this happens both vehicles have the ANTI-BRAKE light indicator lite on the dash but when the light goes out they both start shifting again.
thank you
http://www.troublecodes.net/gmobd.gif
NOTE: if the ABS light is not on when the jumper is installed, a false code 9 may be set. If so, remove the battery negative terminal for 5 seconds to clear it.
There's a list of ABS codes at the end of this article:
http://www.babcox.com/editorial/tr/tr89850.htm
Since you already have the problem, the only solutions are:
1. A complete teardown and replace seals (and if you do that, you may as well do everything else it needs - rebuild, while in there).
Or
2. Add a bottle of LUCAS Transmission stop slip, that may help it. It's the only transmission additive that I ever used that actually worked.