i have a 1990 volvo 240 DL wagon and if i drive over 45 MPH it shakes really bad and make a really loud deep humming noise of sorts..like i have a subwoffer in my engine any ideas? i was thinking it was my transmission? anyone have a clue
I'd check the u-joints in the driveshaft and if they are okay, I'd check for rear wheel balance. I presume the steering wheel is not shaking in your hands?
I have a 95 Dodge Caravan. And myproblem is that it won't shift out of first gear. I checked my vacuum lines and they are all on and i checked my fluid and filter still nothing. Does anyone have any more suggestions for me?
I have 16000 miles on my Rainier. Expeirience problem and had it towed to dealership. They claim water had gotten into transmission. There was rust on a plate. They claim vehical was under water which is not true. Never been under water or in high water. They will not fix under warrenty. Has anyone else experianced this typ of problem.
Before you needlessly contribute to some shark's law school loan payback fund, file an "Auto Line Alternative Dipute Resolution" action through the Council of Better Business Bureaus at 1-800-955-5100. You'll receive a claim form and a handbook of instructions. The matter will be submitted to binding arbitration by an impartial third party (NOT a manufacturer rep, but generally a retired judge who can call upon non-manufacturer experts in the field if necessary) and if ruled in your favor, the tranny will get fixed - there's no appeal process for GM. Generally, you'll have the ruling within 40 days. If in your favor, you'll get notification along with a performance date for completion of repair work. BBB will also contact you to verify that the repair work has been completed. There are no costs to the consumer involved in binding arbitration. If your case does not go in your favor, you still have the option of legal action.
I was thinking of an attorney because arbitrations tend to be compromises and I don't think you should compromise in this case if in fact you are certain the vehicle sustained no water damage at any time.
Anyway, read over your arbitration agreement before you decide to do it so you know what to expect as a possible outcome.
I own a 97 Chrysler Town & Country Van. I can be driving along at any speed and the needle on the speeddometer starts bouncing all over the place. If the cruize is on, it shuts it off. I just had the transmission looked out about 2 months ago, so I pretty sure that it is not the problem. I have been told that there might be a censor in the computer that might need to be replaced? If so, can I go to any mechanic to have this done?
my car is a 1991 toyota corolla, 5sp, the problem is when I put it in first it doesnt grab its the same with second,but thir fourth and fifth works and reverse works right. however when I shut the car off and turn it back on reverse goes forward, and first and second thrid fourth and fifth all work. I dont know wheather it is the slave cylinder or the clutch, or what. please help me on this?
ATTEN: I AM POSTING MY MESSAGE IN ALL CAPS BECAUSE I AM DESPEERATE FOR A REPLY FROM THE HOST OR SOMEONE WHO MAY KNOW)
I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 1996 MAZDA PROTEGE. THE TRAANMSISSION WON'T SHIFT INTO 3RD OF 4TH GEAR. AND WHEN I GET TO 20 MILES AN HOUR THE CAR HESITATES AND PULLS FOR A WHILE BEFORE IT GOES PAST THAT. WHAT DOES THAT MEAN? DO I NEED A NEW OR REBUILT TRANSMISSION? I ALREADY CHECKED FOR LEAKS AND THERE ARE NONE, AND I CHECKRD THE FLUID REGULARLY AND ADD AS NEEDED BUT IT DOESN'T SEEM TO HELP MUCH. EVEN WHEN I PRESS MY FOOT ON THE GAS LIGHTLY IT SEEMS TO JERK A LITTLE. WHAT DOES THAT MEAN??? I'VE BEEN DRIVING IT FOR ABOUT 7 MONTHS LIKE THIS. HOW MUCH LONGER WILL IT LAST ME UNTIL I CAN GET A NEW ONE? THIS CAR IS DRIVING ME CRAZY, I ALREADY SPENT OVER $800 GETTING OTHER REPAIRS ON IT. IF SOMEONE COULD GIVE ME SOME SOUND ADVICE AS TO WHAT I NEED AND WHAT I SHOULD DO IT WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. THANX MUCH
Did it do anything special before all this happened? Or was it just all the sudden one day its doing this? Anyway the first thing to do is go to an autoparts store like Autozone that can scan any codes that maybe set. And before you do that check and clean the battery connections real well. And check electrical connections to the transmission. It could be a problem with the selector switch. It could be a solenoid problem, It could be internal. It could be a filter partially plugged. Droping the pan draining the fluid would let you know. It would be nice to have someone check some pressures for you.
So are you sure it is even shifting into 2nd? It could be skipping 2nd and going into 3rd. That is a band that breaks. Or the apply piston could have issues.
What could be wrong with my trasmission. I have a 2002 6.0 L, AWD Cadillac Escalade. I put my truck into reverse and pressed the gas. I heard the wheels squeal and then a loud Clank, as if something broke. Now my truck will not go into reverse. I mean that it will not move backwards in reverse. It still drives (D) forward but nothing in reverse. What could possibly have broken. Will I need a total new trasmission or some repairs to this one. I know a new transmission will be upwards of $1300-1400 dollars..right?? Any suggestions??
How many miles on it. The bang you heard is most likely the sun shell breaking. Most shops won't do just a repair, they have to back up their work. The high price is Escalade.
I agree---sun shell breaking is very likely---a common problem on the Escalade 7004 or whatever that trans is numbered.
Anyway, if that's the problem, I'd be SURE you got a new transmission with a re-inforced sun shell case or you'll have the same issue again. There are vendors who know this issue and are building stronger cases for that every reason.
I don't know if a whole new trans is in order but since youare taking everything apart it might be a good idea to just plug in a new one and have your worries ended.
In the morning everything is fine, after the car warms up, sometimes (not all the time) it takes about 3-4 seconds to shift into reverse....and during acceleration from 1st to 2nd there is a slight hestitation/sputtering effect (which I can feel and the RPM gauge indicates) ...but does not happen from any other gear.....any help?
Just make sure that what ever is done with the transmission. That ONE they change or flush real good the oil cooler. TWO that the torque coverter is also changed. If something did break then you most likely have some metal floating around inside unless it is a really good filter, it could be in those above items. 02 ? Wow they planned that one good. Just outa warranty. So with the weak parts it wouldn't matter how good you took care of it. It would still break.
I have a 1992 grand prix and the transmission is acting strange. It shifts fine until I stop and then it doesn't want to go in gear. When I stop at a stop sign and try to go it is like the gear is in netural but then it catches and I can go. any ideas on what might be wrong. just changed the filter a few months ago and everything was ok
Did you find anything in the pan when changing the filter? I don't have an application chart for that trans. If you use manual low instead of D drive range, what does it do? Could be a low sprag or roller getting bad. It could be sticking valves, or some other control problem. How are up shifts? Maybe throttle valve adjustment.
Hi! I have a 1999 Grand Prix GT with approx. 103,000 miles on it. I bought it used a year and a half ago and have never had any problems before this. When I am on the highway, once I hit 70mph the rpm's are 3000+. After a while it seems to also make a high pitched humming sound. I have not had any problems shifting off the highway, into reverse, park, etc. On surface streets the car drives fine. I put midgrade fuel in it and change the oil regularly, and have never had any other work done on it. I had a mechanic drive it and he said,(forgive me I am not too educated with this stuff), something about instead of going into 4th gear, the transmission shifts into overdrive and that there was nothing I could do besides replace it. I don't feel right about what he said, since he didn't even look under the hood. Anyone's suggestions would be great. Thanks!
"instead of going into 4th gear, the transmission shifts into overdrive"
Overdrive is 4th gear, they're one and the same. At 3,000 rpm+ there's no question that it's not upshifting to 4th, time to take it to a trans shop which can properly diagnose it. Could be an external cause, could be internal electrics, or could be internal mechanical.
So, any suggestions of questions that I may ask? I feel like sometimes since I really do not know what the translation is, I could and have been taken advantage of. As long as I stay under 50mph or below, the car seems to run very well. Any suggestions of how to prolong it, (I know that is a hard question to ask), because I will have to save for awhile to afford that kind of work. No highway driving? Or it really doesn't matter. Thanks so much for your advice. I really do appreciate anyone's suggestions. Thanks again!!
I have a 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix GT with 93,000 miles on it and am also experiencing some problems recently. After I have been driving on the freeway for a while and then when I get off onto the surface streets and have to stop at a red light or something the whole car begins to jerk when I try to accelerate again. The "Check Engine" light then comes on. After I park the car for a while it seems to drive ok again, that is until it is driven on the freeway for about half an hour or so, and then it starts to happen all over again.
I found some information about some common problems with the transmission and drivetrain in that year and was wondering if that was possibly the cause.
Occasional problems with this vehicle are failures of the Transmission Pressure Control Solenoid (PCS) and the connections at the Transmission Pass-Thru Connector. Failure of the Transmission PCS is identified in TSB # 00-07-30-002B. Failure of the connections at the Transmission Pass-Thru Connector is identified in TSB # 02-07-30-022B. The cost to repair the Transmission PCS is estimated at $45.61 for parts and $273.00 for labor. The cost to repair the Transmission Pass-Thru Connector is estimated at $10.00 for parts and $65.00 for labor. All prices are estimates based on $65 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time or any applicable sales tax.
Like so many others here I really don't know all that much about this kind of stuff and I certainly don't want to have to pay for a whole new transmission if it is not really needed. Thank you in advance for any insight that you can share as to what this might be.
Best bet is to find a reputable private trans repair shop, let them know it's not upshifting to 4th, and let them do the diagnosis and prepare an estimate. Often, shops will waive the diagnostic fee if the customer ok's the repair.
First thing you need to do is have any stored diagnostic trouble codes retrieved. AutoZone will do this no charge. Engine driveability problems often affect transmission operation.
So if I were to take it to have the codes retrieved, would it matter that my check engine light has never came on? Somewhere along the line I got it in my head that a warning light has to be on in order for a code to be read. So in your personal opinion, there MAY be other options besides replacing the transmission? It's bad to say, but often I feel as if being a woman I have unfortunately been taken advantage of with auto repairs. I am so glad that I found this site. Thanks so much!!!
Amberg, Thanks for letting me know I am not alone, and I didn't ruin yet another car, (I had an incident with a past car where where I really did ruin the engine because no one informed me that oil burns off an engine. But don't worry now I know that I need to check the dip stick HAHA!) The information listed above, was it for the 2000 or 1999 Grand Prix GT? Since it is only one year difference I wonder if it could be both? Thanks again!!
I had the same problem with my 2001 grand prix. It turned out to be the valve body and pressure control solenoid on the transmission. On an older grand prix it would cheaper to replace the car than fix it. The parts aren't that bad price wise but the labor will eat you up alive because they have to drop the transmission to get to it for repair. Cost me $1300.
Thanks for the replies everyone. I so appreciate all of your help. At least now I can feel a bit more confident now about taking the car into the repair shop.
The E4OD in my 1994 F250 7.3 IDI diesel has just started slipping under acceleration in overdrive . The code scan is ok and the FIPL/TPS closed nad wide open voltages check ot within spec . I have done a pan drop and flush . It looks like that I will need a rebuild or a used transmission . Because of budgetary problems , I wound like to find a low mileage later model E4OD with torque converter ( from F150,250 gas or diesel? ). What will fit ( all potential donor sources ) and what if any modifications have to be made ? - Thanks
Yes it is a lot of work, lots of mechanical experience helps. I would rather overhaul a transmission than an engine, lots cleaner. Once you do one a lot of the mystery about automatics goes away, not all though, lots of parts.
Comments
thanks
Here's a summary of the arbitration program from the BBB:
http://www.dr.bbb.org/ComSenseAlt/bindArb.asp
I was thinking of an attorney because arbitrations tend to be compromises and I don't think you should compromise in this case if in fact you are certain the vehicle sustained no water damage at any time.
Anyway, read over your arbitration agreement before you decide to do it so you know what to expect as a possible outcome.
Carla Cothran
I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 1996 MAZDA PROTEGE. THE TRAANMSISSION WON'T SHIFT INTO 3RD OF 4TH GEAR. AND WHEN I GET TO 20 MILES AN HOUR THE CAR HESITATES AND PULLS FOR A WHILE BEFORE IT GOES PAST THAT. WHAT DOES THAT MEAN? DO I NEED A NEW OR REBUILT TRANSMISSION? I ALREADY CHECKED FOR LEAKS AND THERE ARE NONE, AND I CHECKRD THE FLUID REGULARLY AND ADD AS NEEDED BUT IT DOESN'T SEEM TO HELP MUCH. EVEN WHEN I PRESS MY FOOT ON THE GAS LIGHTLY IT SEEMS TO JERK A LITTLE. WHAT DOES THAT MEAN??? I'VE BEEN DRIVING IT FOR ABOUT 7 MONTHS LIKE THIS. HOW MUCH LONGER WILL IT LAST ME UNTIL I CAN GET A NEW ONE? THIS CAR IS DRIVING ME CRAZY, I ALREADY SPENT OVER $800 GETTING OTHER REPAIRS ON IT. IF SOMEONE COULD GIVE ME SOME SOUND ADVICE AS TO WHAT I NEED AND WHAT I SHOULD DO IT WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. THANX MUCH
:sick:
Anyway the first thing to do is go to an autoparts store like Autozone that can scan any codes that maybe set.
And before you do that check and clean the battery connections real well. And check electrical connections to the transmission. It could be a problem with the selector switch. It could be a solenoid problem, It could be internal. It could be a filter partially plugged. Droping the pan draining the fluid would let you know. It would be nice to have someone check some pressures for you.
It could be skipping 2nd and going into 3rd.
That is a band that breaks. Or the apply piston could have issues.
Please let me know.
Thanks
Brad
Anyway, if that's the problem, I'd be SURE you got a new transmission with a re-inforced sun shell case or you'll have the same issue again. There are vendors who know this issue and are building stronger cases for that every reason.
I don't know if a whole new trans is in order but since youare taking everything apart it might be a good idea to just plug in a new one and have your worries ended.
02 ? Wow they planned that one good. Just outa warranty.
So with the weak parts it wouldn't matter how good you took care of it. It would still break.
I don't have an application chart for that trans. If you use manual low instead of D drive range, what does it do?
Could be a low sprag or roller getting bad.
It could be sticking valves, or some other control problem. How are up shifts? Maybe throttle valve adjustment.
Overdrive is 4th gear, they're one and the same. At 3,000 rpm+ there's no question that it's not upshifting to 4th, time to take it to a trans shop which can properly diagnose it. Could be an external cause, could be internal electrics, or could be internal mechanical.
I found some information about some common problems with the transmission and drivetrain in that year and was wondering if that was possibly the cause.
Occasional problems with this vehicle are failures of the Transmission Pressure Control Solenoid (PCS) and the connections at the Transmission Pass-Thru Connector. Failure of the Transmission PCS is identified in TSB # 00-07-30-002B. Failure of the connections at the Transmission Pass-Thru Connector is identified in TSB # 02-07-30-022B. The cost to repair the Transmission PCS is estimated at $45.61 for parts and $273.00 for labor. The cost to repair the Transmission Pass-Thru Connector is estimated at $10.00 for parts and $65.00 for labor. All prices are estimates based on $65 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time or any applicable sales tax.
Like so many others here I really don't know all that much about this kind of stuff and I certainly don't want to have to pay for a whole new transmission if it is not really needed. Thank you in advance for any insight that you can share as to what this might be.
http://car-part.com/index.htm
I remember wrecking yards used to have an interchange book. I think it was called a Hollander or something like that.
Have you looked into rebuilding it yourself ?
ATSG sells for $20.00 a nice book worth the read
Most general repair shops won't attempt a job like that. They farm them out to a trans shop.
Even if a person had the skills, they sure wouldn't have the necessary tools and equipment!
You were kidding...right?
A filthy job too and who knows what you might run into.