....a complete tranny flush for $99.95. That's not a bad price. Has anyone had this service done and if so, were you happy with it? My MPV has just turned 30K and I need to get it done.
My dealer recommends the transaxle flushes; it costs about $90. Dropping the pan costs substantially more.
The flush replaces a all liquid and a bit more (what is in pipes and the flush machine). This is about 16 quarts for my car. Dropping the pan replaces only about 50% of the liquid, 7-8 quarts. On the other hand, when dropping the pan technician replaces as well the tranny filter.
I decided for flush, but brought my own transmission liquid, the synthetic Mobil-1. The dealer's technician started with flush, but then proceeded with dropping the pan and replacing the filter. They do it when a dirty liquid comes out while flashing. I did not save on the procedure, but cleaned my tranny much better than if I would decide to drop the pan from the very beginning.
Being a superior liquid, Mobil-1 dissolves a lot of deposits and contaminations...
Doing a fluid change is a complete waste of time and money. As yurakm stated, you're only replacing about half of the fluid when doing just a drain. Would you be okay with only changing half the oil in you engine for an oil change? Yes, it is the same thing.
I called all the Mazda dealerships within a 20 mile radius of my local area. None of them offer a tranny flush service, they only do drains. I also checked with BG (they have authorized service centers that supposedly do flushes and provide a tranny warranty for getting the service). There were only two authorized BG service centers in my area. One only does drains, the other does flushes but can't offer my the warranty because they are a Nissan dealership and I'm having the service done on Mazda. That sounds a bit fishy to me, but at any rate, I tried to do the right thing by not having the service done by a chain and struck out. These places need to get with the program! It doesn't take a licensed mechanic to know that changing ALL the fluid is better for your tranny than changing PART of the fluid.
If you're concerned about leaving 5/12 of the fluid in the trans, replace it two times in a row 10K apart. REplace it three times: 5/12 * 5/12 * 5/12 = 125/1728 ths of the original would still be there!
>changing half the oil in you engine for an oil change
Trans fluid doesn't have combustion leaving contaminants in the oil. It's a closed system, more or less.
...most problems caused by power flushing are with older, high mileage trannies that have never had a flush. Problems from flushing occure very rarely with vehicles when they're done starting at 30K miles, and then every 30K thereafter. In these cases, the bennies far outweigh the risks of doing damage.
Perhaps you missed the "and had filter change"? And based on what my service manager had to say about full flushes and problems afterwards that sounds touchy to me.
Changing the fluid regularly by dropping the pan and changing the filter, reusing the original GM pan gasket sounds best to me. I know it's not going to cause a problem.
...but I still don't see how changing part of the fluid and installing a new filter could be better for the tranny than changing ALL the fluid. I'm guessing your service manager's point of view is motivated by the fact that they don't have a flush machine. There's no way in he11 changing the filter and PART of the fluid is better, or even as good as changing ALL the fluid.
>guessing your service manager's point of view is motivated by the fact that they don't have a flush machine.
Guess doesn't help. My service manager actually talked to one of several small town service managers with whom he shares information on GM cars and service. I stood right there. That service manager, who does have one and had used it, did NOT recommend it on my car. He mentioned problems after flushes. My car had been changed at 65K and had a little sticking going on.
The fluid on the dipstick is nice and reddish pink, and the tranny is shifting as smooth as silk. I'll let you know if I have any problems and I'd say if I don't, $100 is a good deal for this service.
Joe sounds like your tranny clutch pack burned out... The harsh shifting should have been the first indicator of this, the dealership should have diagnosed this correctly, so preventative maintenance was done before burning out the transmission like you did. When the clutches are burned out- it feels like the clutch is slipping.
I've got a '99 Suburban (4L60E trans.). 150k mi., tranny serviced at 30k,70k,100k. A few months ago,"check engine" light prompted diag check, revealing (among others)P1870 tranny slippage. Dealer wanted to replace faulty valve body @$700+. (I notice NO shifting problems). After asking around,I am confused as to what to do. Opinion#2: replacing valve body just a temporary fix, you'll need new tranny in 6 mo." #3:do tranny flush (not drain) first,code may not reappear. My question:should I 1)do flush,hope that,if there is a problem,it goes away or 2)run to tranny shop&have them install an aftermarket Sonnex valve kit I read about for I believe $200-$300?? I am assuming tranny shop could inspect valve body to confirm problem?? Any advice appreciated.
Go with Sonnex kit, if you keep running it that way you will need a complete overhaul. The trans. will overheat and burn up, the converter will turn blue, not good. I hope my 99 4L60E goes 150K before valve body repair. I would say your regular trans service delayed the wear, they usually go around 80K.
Flushes vs drains were discussed again on radio car mechanic talk show. He made the point that the sludge in the pan doesn't get cleaned out with a power flush, the filter doesn't get changed, and you don't get to inspect the magnet to see if something unusual is accumulating on it.
I'd suggest alternating and having a drain the next time you do service. Good luck with the flush however. His solution was to do both at one time if you really want the flush.
I think what I'm going to do is continue doing the flushes every 30K, plus at every 15K I will pull and clean the pan, change the filter, and replace the drained fluid. That should keep the tranny happy for a long time. I still think it's very strange that Mazda doesn't include fluid or filter changes as part of the periodic maintenance for the MPV. I'm thinking this was an oversight on their part as I've never known of any auto tranny that never requires a fluid change.
I have had a persistent squeeling noise with the clutch especially in 1st or 2nd gear and at low speed,e.g. at stop signs, pulling in driveway. I have had it at the dealer numerous times as much as two days at a time, and still have the same problem. The dealer mechanic thinks it is the clutch plate when it heats up and expands. The shift also gets stuck and will not go into 1st or 2nd, basically freezes up. This happens sporadically. My daughter is starting to drive and I don't know if this is safe for her. The dealer tells me the clutch is not covered under Hyundai's warranty. The car has 48,000 miles
Or maybe THEY WANT the tranny to fail because there's more money to be made in the service department than there is in the sales department. There has never been an auto tranny built that doesn't require fluid changes.
I had a 1998 Chevy Malibu. According to the manual, transmission fluid change was needed at 100k miles for severe driving conditions, and never for standard conditions. It even had no dipstick; only qualified technicians could check the fluid level.
Of course, severe driving conditions include very usual environments, like city and/or hilly terrains. Changed the fluid at about 40k miles, but the transmission died about year later, at 47k miles or so.
We have a 98 saturn wagon with a dead trannie. the question is, do we get a junkyard trannie with a 3 month warranty, or a rebuild, with a 3year warranty. the difference in price is significant. So, thoughts about how reliable junkyard trannies tend to be? I know it depends on the particular one you get, but we're looking to improve our odds. Thanks for your replies.
I have a 1993 Dodge Shadow automatic with about 174,000 that I got from a friend. He had let it sit for a while, and the battery died. After a jump it started fine. I have needed a jump several times since so i know i need to replace it. BUT, here is my problem. A few days ago, when I put the car into drive the engine revs as though it is in neutral, after a minute or so it drives. It happens slightly with reverse, though not to the extent as with drive. I had a mechanic check my tranny fluid, he said it is slightly low and off color. But not to the point that it should cause my problem. After talking with others and reading I am hoping that it is because of the battery causing something to malfuncion? Is that plausible?
I have a 2001 Chevy Malibu with 62,000 miles on it and when it warms up the shifting really jerks. Its an automatic. Now the check engine light comes on once in awhile. Renee
I have a 96 Saturn SL2 with 98,000 miles on it (standard transmission) When I try to accelerate from stop or in any gear, it jerks. The Service Engine light starts flashing. Also when I am going up a hill, I lose speed and have to downshift to get any umpf to my car. I lose up to 20 miles an hour in speed when going uphill on a highway. My gas mileage is terrible. I am a single mom who is tired of every mechanic trying to sell me more than what I actually need to fix on my car. My brother is trying to educate me on how to change spark clubs and general maintenance type things to help fray expenses. I have to shift into neutral to keep the car idling at stop signs and to keep it from bucking.
I am starting at changing the spark plugs and moving on from there. I am being told that the timing belt needs to be replaced or it might be the vacuum advance. My brother has suggested we start simple and move on from there. Any other suggestions? engine temp is good (not even halfway). It bucks from start to fifth gear when accelerating. I have a mechanic who thinks my clutch needs to be repaired. The same mechanic thinks the fuel filter needs to be changed. I had it changed in Dec. The thing is, it happens when I accelerate. It sometimes dies, but I can start it up immediately... for now. I have noticed that when the car isn't warmed up, it doesn't buck until it has warmed up.
I just had a possum underneath my hood removed, but I doubt if that has been the problem for the last five months since it was a baby. Any suggestions?
I have a mx6 with a 2.5 liter....it has a hold button on the shifter, i'm assuming that its like a torque button..anyways most of the time it the hold light flashes and the tranny shifts really hard...after an hour or so of driving it works normally but mainly shifts hard. i've read the chilton book over and over looking for a sensor or something that would tell me what i need to replace..now i'm just frustrated and need a little help so if anyone's got the awnser let me know, i would be thankful
my 95 Cherokee transfer case is leaking.I not sure if the leak is from a seal, how can I tell where the leak is coming from.Oh the trans fluid just poored out when I parked it. ON a Automatice 4wd Cherokee do you add transmission fluid in transfer case?
Well if you are losing fluid and your clutch is slipping you have TWO problems, so you'd better plan on a new clutch pressure plate, clutch disk, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and at least new hydraulic clutch slave cylinder.
Pricing depends on where you live, as labor rates vary widely in the USA. I'd guess you are going to pay at least $750, perhaps more if you have a bad clutch master cylinder as well and definitely more if you have a scored or damaged flywheel. Yes, any competent shop can do this job, no problem.
Brought the Accord into the mechanic yesterday. He took it for a test ride and said that the clutch appeared to be fine. That it was in fine working condition. He did agree that the clutch was VERY stiff. He looked around and was able to see it leaking out of what he called the sleeve cylinder - that directly attaches to the transmission.
He gave me a quote of 90$ parts and 1/2 hour labor to install and bleed the clutch. Does that sound good? I thought it did.
I have an appointment at 1:30 for him to do it today.
When I asked him if it would make the clutch easier to push in, he said it should. (but he didn't say it very convincingly?)
I bought a 89 Chevy Fullsize Blazer a couple of years back. It shifts somewhat hard and at high rpms (not real high) since I've had it. Several mechanical friends have said it either has a shift kit in it or the bands need adjusting. The guy I bought it from said the tranny had been rebuilt and that is all he told me. I dont have contact with him any more. I plan on having it flushed (what is the best method?) and the filter changed soon, I will be moving to Colorado on 1 June. Any suggestions or ideas would be helpfull. Thanks....... :confuse:
Conclusion: Well - the parts supplier sent the wrong part to my mechanic, so we could not put in the slave cylinder on Friday as planned. He wanted to do it Monday, but I have to be traveling this week for work.
I did go to a dealer and found a honda OEM part for 39.99 -MUCH less than the 90$ the mechanic quoted me!!!
Anyways I put the part in on Sunday, and bled the clutch system. The clutch is working fine, but it is still hard to depress - not quite as hard, but still feels harder than my CRV. A co-workers husband who is a mechanic, said that it could be the pins on the pressure plate get dry, and there is nothing to do about it. I just need to run it until I get tired of the stiff clutch, then replace the Pressure plate and the clutch if need be.
Morning: Another question on my Honda. ( I recently wrote about replacing the slave cylinder, and the stiff clutch)
When I shift up thru the gears with hard acceleration, and get about 4k rpm, 3rd gear, about 55mph, I can feel a significant vibration coming from the front end (i think). It is the same feeling that one would get when the tires are out of balance, in my experience.
It is not as pronounced when I go passively up thru the gears, but I can feel it. When I get in the 65-80 mph range- the car smooths out significantly.
I tried hard accleration to the 55mph, till the vibration occured and then pushed in the clutch - vibration went away.
One other test I ran, I would be on the highway in 4 gear, about 65 mph and hard accel -- same vibration but not as pronounced. This occurs in 5 gear as same.
I just had new rims and tires put on. They did a 4 wheel alignment, and the camber is out in the rear(front is perfec). This needs to be fixed. I do feel that the tires are not perfectly balanced yet. Note that I did feel this vibration with the old tires as well, but not as pronounced.
Anyways - do you feel this points to a clutch issue? (Or a combination of clutch and new tires out of balance) What other kinds of diagnostics can I run, or should I rush to the mechanics.
I have '92 Mazda 929. It also has a HOLD button on the automatic shifter. My owner's manual says that when the HOLD light on the dashboard is flashing it means that there is a problem with the tranny. My Mazda dealer could not find any error codes though. When the hold button is pressed, the tranny will start at 2nd gear instead of 1st gear. This is to get better traction on snow etc.
I don't know if this applies to your case since my Mazda 929 ('92) is an automatic. I had loss of power in my car also. It just didn't accelerate as before. The problem was malfunctioning engine "knock" sensor. The sensor was thinking that the engine was knocking so it retarded the engine timing so the engine lost its "pep" so the car accelerated at a very slow rate.
I noticed a leak one day and took my car to be looked at a transmission place. He took my car and we drove around a few miles and went back to the shop and they put it up on the rack after we got back and looked at it. They told me I had a leak in the front area case half and they showed me where it was coming from. He said the car drove and shifted fine to him and it was up to me what i wanted to do. He said i could get the gaskets resealed for $600 bucks. He said that might fix it but the way the car is I could drive it another 6 months or two years like it is and just to keep and eye on the fluid level. The transmission is always full when I check it and never have to add any fluid to it. it doesn't leak all tht time just occasionally. I was just wondering how bad this is and possible fixes and just more information in general. The car is a 1998 ford excort and really has givne me very little problems over the years and it now has 149,000 miles on it. thanks in advance.
I'll try to keep this brief. My '03 WRX (85k+ miles) has developed a high RPM 5th gear grind. The grind happens around 4500+ RPM. In order for this to qualify for extended warranty repair, my dealer must be able to duplicate the problem. Due it being 5th gear, shifting from 4th to 5th needs to done at 80+mph, which is above the NJ posted limit of 65mph. I suggested the dealer shift from 3rd to 5th (which would be lower than 65mph) to duplicate the problem.
Both the dealer and Subaru of America say shifting from 3rd to 5th is not normal and they refuse to do that. The WRX has a synchromesh transmission. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the occasional skipping of gears, like the 3rd to 5th shift should be completely normal. In fact, I pointed out GM mandated a 1st to 4th shift in the Camaro and Vette under part throttle application in order to meet fuel mileage requirements. This fell on deaf ears.
Am I wrong here? How do I go about getting proof SOA and my dealer are giving me the "shaft"? Nowhere in the owners manual does it state the transmission must be shifted like a sequential transmission (found on motorcycles and race cars), nor does it state what constitutes "normal driving conditions".
You are correct. I mean, logic dictates that why else would they have made it possible to skip gears. This is why it is called a "selective" transmission, unlike a motorcycle which is "progressive".
Ask them to stop weaseling and to get the job done for you, or have your attorney write them a letter.
If they use the "we can't break the law" defense, tell them to rent a dynomometer.
Comments
The flush replaces a all liquid and a bit more (what is in pipes and the flush machine). This is about 16 quarts for my car. Dropping the pan replaces only about 50% of the liquid, 7-8 quarts. On the other hand, when dropping the pan technician replaces as well the tranny filter.
I decided for flush, but brought my own transmission liquid, the synthetic Mobil-1. The dealer's technician started with flush, but then proceeded with dropping the pan and replacing the filter. They do it when a dirty liquid comes out while flashing. I did not save on the procedure, but cleaned my tranny much better than if I would decide to drop the pan from the very beginning.
Being a superior liquid, Mobil-1 dissolves a lot of deposits and contaminations...
A simple fluid change should be all you need.
Sounds good in theory though.
>changing half the oil in you engine for an oil change
Trans fluid doesn't have combustion leaving contaminants in the oil. It's a closed system, more or less.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I'll bet it's even better than the power flushes.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Changing the fluid regularly by dropping the pan and changing the filter, reusing the original GM pan gasket sounds best to me. I know it's not going to cause a problem.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Guess doesn't help. My service manager actually talked to one of several small town service managers with whom he shares information on GM cars and service. I stood right there. That service manager, who does have one and had used it, did NOT recommend it on my car. He mentioned problems after flushes. My car had been changed at 65K and had a little sticking going on.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Good Luck
I'd suggest alternating and having a drain the next time you do service. Good luck with the flush however. His solution was to do both at one time if you really want the flush.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Of course, severe driving conditions include very usual environments, like city and/or hilly terrains. Changed the fluid at about 40k miles, but the transmission died about year later, at 47k miles or so.
We have a 98 saturn wagon with a dead trannie. the question is, do we get a junkyard trannie with a 3 month warranty, or a rebuild, with a 3year warranty. the difference in price is significant. So, thoughts about how reliable junkyard trannies tend to be? I know it depends on the particular one you get, but we're looking to improve our odds.
Thanks for your replies.
Doyle Sely
BUT, here is my problem.
A few days ago, when I put the car into drive the engine revs as though it is in neutral, after a minute or so it drives. It happens slightly with reverse, though not to the extent as with drive. I had a mechanic check my tranny fluid, he said it is slightly low and off color. But not to the point that it should cause my problem. After talking with others and reading I am hoping that it is because of the battery causing something to malfuncion? Is that plausible?
I am starting at changing the spark plugs and moving on from there. I am being told that the timing belt needs to be replaced or it might be the vacuum advance. My brother has suggested we start simple and move on from there. Any other suggestions? engine temp is good (not even halfway). It bucks from start to fifth gear when accelerating. I have a mechanic who thinks my clutch needs to be repaired. The same mechanic thinks the fuel filter needs to be changed. I had it changed in Dec. The thing is, it happens when I accelerate. It sometimes dies, but I can start it up immediately... for now. I have noticed that when the car isn't warmed up, it doesn't buck until it has warmed up.
I just had a possum underneath my hood removed, but I doubt if that has been the problem for the last five months since it was a baby. Any suggestions?
Toyota Avalon Quality Problems
Avalon shows dent in Toyota quality; fixes sought for 'problematic vehicle'
I have developed a stiff clutch in my Honda. I did find one post that said that it is probably on its way out.
If I really floor it on acceleration it think I can feel it slipping.
My question, is how much to replace a clutch?
Can any reputable mechanic do this job or should I go to the dealer?
Could something else be wrong?
Do I need to act on this immediately?
The fluid level was down in the resivor, I added more, but it still is stiff.
thanks
Leggo
Pricing depends on where you live, as labor rates vary widely in the USA. I'd guess you are going to pay at least $750, perhaps more if you have a bad clutch master cylinder as well and definitely more if you have a scored or damaged flywheel. Yes, any competent shop can do this job, no problem.
He looked around and was able to see it leaking out of what he called the sleeve cylinder - that directly attaches to the transmission.
He gave me a quote of 90$ parts and 1/2 hour labor to install and bleed the clutch. Does that sound good? I thought it did.
I have an appointment at 1:30 for him to do it today.
When I asked him if it would make the clutch easier to push in, he said it should. (but he didn't say it very convincingly?)
So do you think it will help the stiff clutch?
Thanks
Leggo
:confuse:
Well - the parts supplier sent the wrong part to my mechanic, so we could not put in the slave cylinder on Friday as planned. He wanted to do it Monday, but I have to be traveling this week for work.
I did go to a dealer and found a honda OEM part for 39.99 -MUCH less than the 90$ the mechanic quoted me!!!
Anyways I put the part in on Sunday, and bled the clutch system.
The clutch is working fine, but it is still hard to depress - not quite as hard, but still feels harder than my CRV.
A co-workers husband who is a mechanic, said that it could be the pins on the pressure plate get dry, and there is nothing to do about it. I just need to run it until I get tired of the stiff clutch, then replace the Pressure plate and the clutch if need be.
thanks for your help.
Ed
Another question on my Honda. ( I recently wrote about replacing the slave cylinder, and the stiff clutch)
When I shift up thru the gears with hard acceleration, and get about 4k rpm, 3rd gear, about 55mph, I can feel a significant vibration coming from the front end (i think). It is the same feeling that one would get when the tires are out of balance, in my experience.
It is not as pronounced when I go passively up thru the gears, but I can feel it. When I get in the 65-80 mph range- the car smooths out significantly.
I tried hard accleration to the 55mph, till the vibration occured and then pushed in the clutch - vibration went away.
One other test I ran, I would be on the highway in 4 gear, about 65 mph and hard accel -- same vibration but not as pronounced. This occurs in 5 gear as same.
I just had new rims and tires put on. They did a 4 wheel alignment, and the camber is out in the rear(front is perfec). This needs to be fixed. I do feel that the tires are not perfectly balanced yet. Note that I did feel this vibration with the old tires as well, but not as pronounced.
Anyways - do you feel this points to a clutch issue? (Or a combination of clutch and new tires out of balance) What other kinds of diagnostics can I run, or should I rush to the mechanics.
thanks
leggo
Both the dealer and Subaru of America say shifting from 3rd to 5th is not normal and they refuse to do that. The WRX has a synchromesh transmission. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the occasional skipping of gears, like the 3rd to 5th shift should be completely normal. In fact, I pointed out GM mandated a 1st to 4th shift in the Camaro and Vette under part throttle application in order to meet fuel mileage requirements. This fell on deaf ears.
Am I wrong here? How do I go about getting proof SOA and my dealer are giving me the "shaft"? Nowhere in the owners manual does it state the transmission must be shifted like a sequential transmission (found on motorcycles and race cars), nor does it state what constitutes "normal driving conditions".
Thank you
Mike
Ask them to stop weaseling and to get the job done for you, or have your attorney write them a letter.
If they use the "we can't break the law" defense, tell them to rent a dynomometer.