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a few posts back sorry bout the heading it should have been accountants not accounts
Ryan
Just as Dunlop can subract a belt (thinking no one will know any better), Michelin can add a belt (D+E load range truck tires) without people noticing. While one company is screwing over unwitting consumers, Michelin is protecting them with equal secrecy. Why? Because they don't waste their time telling you why their tires are better because most people wouldn't understand, anyway.
The 265/75s will fit, but your acceleration will be slightly decreased; there isn't really any benefit to upgrading to this size. However, I've upgraded several new Toys to the 75s and the customers were satisfied with the ride.
The Dunlop Radial Rovers are considered a higher grade tire, but they're not even close to the Michelins. They're usually cheaper, but not by much at a discount retailer. I see that Tire Rack has them for around $90 in the 265/75. Sam's club is currently selling the X-Radial LT (nearly identical to the LTX M/S) for $116 in the 265/70. This is primarily a highway tire, but it utilizes the same casing construction as the LTX A/T. The tread is slightly less aggresive than the LTX A/T, but it will be just as good as the Dunlop RV off road and twice as good on the road.
Tire Rack has the LTX M/S for $115. This is a smidge better than the X-Radial LT off road, due to the slightly higher-void tread design. You really can't go wrong with this tire; if you take a gander back a few hundred posts, you'll recall that the participants of this forum almost unanimously agree that the LTX M/S is the best truck tire on the market. The Dunlop is a serious compromise. Judging by your vehicle choice, I wouldn't think you were the type to sacrifice handling, performance and safety over saving $100 on a set of tires. I promise you'll be satisfied with either of the LTX models. If you decide to settle for the Radial Rovers, expect to regret it.
As far as the differences in handling, that depends on the brand you choose. A Michelin XGT V4 will handle better than a Futura Ultra Z.
No, you don't need light truck tires unless you load it like a light truck. There are light truck type tires readily available in P215/75R15. Most actual light truck tires start at LT235/75R15 and this is too big for a windstar.
Do you have an opinion on the Kumoh, Dayton and Cooper brands of the VR rated tires for my Volvo 850 Turbo? All of these brands are offering fairly decent pricing on the tires -- but I know nothing about the reliablility or handling capabilities of the tires.
I appreciate would appreciate your opinion.
Electrical problems, bah. That's complete BS.
-Colin
Would smaller tires improve gas mileage or reduce road noise? How about regular snow/ice traction? Is it worth changing?
One tire is damaged, but the other tires have very little wear on them (17k miles). I looked into replacing it with the same tire, except it costs $160, and it doesnt seem worth it.
I was wondering if I could...
1. switch it with either a lower speed rated tire, or
2. even a different brand tire with the same rating (for like half the cost).
I know I've heard you shouldnt mix tires on the same axel, but that was from tire stores. I was wondering if anyone has any different information on the question.
Thanks.
good luck.
-Chris
I would not go cheap-check out the ratings at www.tirerack.com . I prefer Michelin X-One's over the MXV4's-much better handling, wet traction and quieter. If you take any long trips poor handling or noisey tires can make life miserable. In my neck of the woods we have something called Farm & Fleet that sells X-One's for a good price.
Plus the new tire may not necessarily be the same rolling diameter even though it is marketed as the same size. I would buy at least two tires, your differential(s) will thank you. Even if that odd tire is on the back of a FWD car, it will be on the drive wheels after rotation so don't do it.
-Colin
First, whomever gave you a price of $160 for a V-rated MXV4 Plus is on crack. You should be able to find this tire for around $130 elsewhere.
You do need to replace at least two. They don't have to be the same brand as your rears, but they must be the same construction and designation. Mainly, they must be V-rated. Most people like to match up the same brand, just to retain the full performance capabilities of that line and also so your handling doesn't change every time you rotate the tires.
If you haven't rotated your tires, the rears should be nearly new. The Michelin Energy tires usually won't start to dry rot until eight or ten years of service.
The Michelin X-One is the best damn broadline touring tire money can buy. Anyone who tells you different is either misinformed or wouldn't be able to tell a difference in handling between a McLaren F1 and a Geo Metro. Check out the real features of the X-One: Full depth sipes, allowing the tire to maintain its wet traction for nearly its whole life; silica compound, allowing the tire to remain flexible at very low temperatures, less rolling resistance; wider contact patch, giving the vehicle much more stability, cornering, braking... the list goes on.
I don't work for Michelin, as a matter of fact, as of last month I don't even work in a tire shop, since I've just taken a commission in the Marine Corps. But after working my way through college selling and installing thousands each of Goodyear, Michelin, General, BF Goodrich, Pirelli, Firestone and a few off-brands, I have come to a few conclusions: Goodyear makes wildly overpriced cheap tires; General makes cheaply priced cheap tires; BF Goodrich (owned by Michelin) makes excellent high performance and off-road tires, and decent broadline tires, at a low price; Firestone makes medium grade tires at a medium price; and Michelin makes the best freakin' tires allowable by our age's technology, at a price which is often double that of the competition. They play in a whole different arena. They don't make Michelins for those who want to save money on tires (that's why they own BFG and Uniroyal); they aim at those who value safety, comfort, and treat their vehicles like a member of the family. Some complain that they won't buy Michelins because they wouldn't "make good" on a set of "defective" tires they had in the past. In the five years I spent working full time in a tire shop, every "defective" Michelin I saw was destroyed by something the customer did (or didn't do). You have a better chance of being struck by lightning than getting a bad Michelin.
I also noticed that your one-liner tire mfg opinions didn't say anything about Japanese brands, is that because where you worked didn't sell them? There are quite a number of Japanese performance tires that are priced below Michelin's top level offerings (mxx3, pilot sport) and give great performance.
-Colin
I knew I was setting myself up with that last post. It's unlikely that your friend received a set of defective michelins. Depending on the type of rim he purchased, The Tire Rack probably didn't match mount the tires, and ended up with an out of round wheel package. They're a fast food tire store, what would you expect?
No, I never sold Japanese tires. Though I have heard the opinions of my customers who have owned them (when I dismounted them), and they aren't anything special. A lot of people like Yokohama tires, often the same people who buy Michelins. A lot of people like Bridgestone tires, as well. But what does that matter? Who has the luxury of driving a tire for its full life, then doing it again with the tires of every major manufacturer on every type of vehicle sold in the US? No one--but everyone. Who gets to talk to these people? Guys like me (who care to).
From what I have observed in wear patterns and what my customers have told me, I would place Yokohamas in the same category as Firestone. Decent, not too expensive, but I wouldn't choose them for my vehicle. I hardly ever saw Toyo tires (except for on kids' souped up import cars in parking lots). I think their appeal is more cosmetic than anything.
Here's my contribution: For my money and personal safety I wouldn't put any tire other than an HR rated tire on a car. At today's highway speeds and driving distances the small cost difference is not worth the risk of a blow-out.
They perform much better in wet-no hydroplaning at 75 in a down pour and no problems on twisty US 20 across No IL. in the same down pour. Able to run at 70 mph on full cover snow up I 37-rest of traffic at no more than 50. Would not take energy tires now if they were free-not a bad tire but the X-One is much better and more expensive.
Several friends and relatives now run X-One's and all are happy with them. Oh I sell medical software systems-no connection to tires other than betting my life on them.
Then you could continue spreading your word, telling all the Mercedes, BMW, Audi, VW and Honda owners to scrap their O.E. H- and V-rated MXV4s in favor of the lower rated X-Ones which will offer increased treadlife (in a few cases) but throw off all other aspects of performance which have been designed into those specific platforms requiring a tire with circumfrentially wrapped nylon bands (to resist centrifugal forces found at the speeds these vehicles are created to obtain) around the steel belts.
Once that works out for you, you can call the engineers at Michelin and tell them of your discovery: how their tire designated with lower rating actually outperforms their premium model. They might even offer you a job on the spot. Unless you spend this much time in a medical software system forum, I'd say you belong in the tire field. This could be a new career for you. You might even win the Nobel Prize.
Otherwise, quit telling people it's okay to downgrade from H- or V- to T-rated tires. There are a lot of high performance vehicles which are shipped from the factory with MXV4s. For some reason, your 4-banger Honda fits into the bottom of this group. The tires were overrated for your vehicle, and in your case, it was a wise move to go to a tire which is more matched to the speed capability of your car. However, this would not be a wise move for the scores of other vehicles which are born with the same rubber--such as the Jetta 1.8 Turbo and the BMW 3-series. I have grown very annoyed with your nonchalant dispension of ill direction. You represent a very small minority: your car came with overkill tires, and you couldn't appreciate them. You tried to drive them like a touring tire (for a touring tire distance, if I reacall), and they didn't live up to your misguided expectations. Now stop polluting the minds of those who drive vehicles which SHOULD and DO have Michelin MXV4 Plus tires.
Your opinion is not applicable to any situation other than driving a 4-cylinder (not V6) Honda Accord nearly double the recommended life of the OE tires.
Once again, I will say: the X-Ones are outstanding tires. However, they are not created for the same purpose as the MXV4 (cruising at very high speeds), and in most cases, are not a suitable replacement for an application requiring that type of tire. I have owned both models on different vehicles, and would buy either of them again without a second thought.
I have a 2000 Suburban 2500 (3/4 ton) truck. The
sticker on the door indicating proper tire
inflation calls for 50 psi in the front tires, and
80 psi in the rear tires. The max psi specified
on the tires is 80 psi.
It just seems to me that 80 psi is a lot, and that
the 30 psi differential between the front and rear
tires is also a lot. Anyone care to comment or
share insights on this?
Thanks in advance,
Kurt
Ryan
---Andy
BTW, the first time I flew in an airplane, I jumped out
Cheers,
TB
I've talked to several Toyota mechanics who have assured me that it is okay to downgrade to a T-rated tire on the late model Camrys if it is more suitable to the driver's needs. The question arose when I changed a Camry's worn-out T-rated tires, which had been installed at the dealership (for what reason I do not know) when the car was brand new. The car had 30K miles on the odometer with T-rated tires on the wheels and a designation of H on the placard. It was strange enough to prompt further investigation.
With a screen name like Saranac, I'm guessing you're form upstate NY, and will benefit greatly from the X-One's excellent snow traction (due to wicked sipage). The MXV4 is also an good all-season tire, but it's not quite as good as the X-One in the slop.
Personally, I wouldn't downgrade the speed rating due to the fact that it will certainly have an adverse effect on handling. The BFG Touring T/A HR4 is an excellent tire for about half the cost of the Michelin MXV4. It won't be as smooth or quiet as either Michelin, but will probably perform the same (in every aspect) as the Dunlop. The BFG Touring T/A VR4 is a higher speed rating than you need (V), and usually costs $10-20 more than the HR4.
--Chris
Keeping the tires at 55 and 80 will wear the rear tires out if you don't load the truck up more than 75% of the time you drive it. Most GM pickup owners keep them all at 45-55psi. The Suburban is a bit heavier in the rear (compared to an empty pickup), so you might want to keep the rear closer to 60psi. The load capacity increases as the pressure increases, all the way up to the max. However, if the load capacity is much greater than the actual load on the tires, the center of the tread will wear prematurely (and you'll get a harsh ride).
When you tow something, it would be wise to raise the pressure to the max. The maximum load rating on the tire's sidewall is figured at 80psi.
Unloaded, you can take the tires all the way down to 35 psi (but I wouldn't), to give you a soft, carlike ride--gas mileage will suffer. By raising the pressure above 50psi, it will ride more like a truck, but your gas mileage will probably improve.
--Chris
Hey, but for that O-1E pay, I don't mind sleeping in a muddy foxhole every now and again.
--Chris
BTW, how would you rate Dunlop SP9000's (compared to the MXV4 Energy Plus series)? And what's better for my '98 Accord Coupe EX V6: the Dunlop SP9000's or the X-Ones?
Once again,
Good luck in the Corps,
We all wish you the best.
Regards,
pblevine
Geez, you still haven't bought new tires for your Accord? Forget the Dunlops and MXV4s. If I had your vehicle, I'd go with the Pilot XGT V4s. They'll handle better, wick water away quicker, and turn a few heads in the process (well, while it's parked, I mean).
If you drive your Accord V6 well below its design parameters, take exit ramps at less than the marked speed, and don't mind diluting all the performance enhancements with which your V6 model was endowed, downgrading 2 speed ratings (from V to T) might be an option. Though I would--and often do here--STONGLY recommend against this. This tire is not, in any way, designed with your vehicle in mind.
XGT V4
XGT V4
XGT V4...
Bruce
I have a 1999 Solara SE V6 with 205/60HR16 and the closest Mich. sizes I can come up with are 225/55 or 245/50's and the Pilot XGT H4's are available in both. How do I determine (or maybe there is a book somewhere) if these sizes will fit on my car without rubbing the fenders and/or fit on my OEM rims (16x6, I think)? How do you recommend I proceed? Thanks!!
I did a quick search at Tirerack.com; the Michelin Energy MXV4 should be available in your size. The "H" rated tire is $95.
Ryan
Thanks for your post.
-Colin
Any recommendations? A friend recommended I look at purchasing a Dunlop tire. Thoughts?
If you can budget it I would recommend summer performance tires on your stock rims and second set of rims for winter tires. Mount these from late November to early March, give or take.
If you persist with the all-season compromise, I'd try the Pirelli P7000 supersport or the Bridgestone Potenza RE940.
-Colin
-Colin
High Performance Tires
Your host, Bruce