I use the two part Lexol treatment but only because I have had excellent luck with it from new. Hide Food is good for restoring old leather and the Zymol stuff is also reasonable. Never kept a leather seated car more than 5 years but twice a year Lexol kept it like new. My very subjective 2¢
I had a 1985 T-bird Turbo coupe with leather seats that went thru 2 kids. Only conditioned the leather 2 or 3 times. Had the car 10 years and when I sold it the seats looked almost new! Must have been a good grade leather then, and a good color(dark gray). Have a 92 Bonneville (light gray) and the driver seat is showing the dark lines. Just bought a 99 Silverado with light gray leather and will look for hide food. Want this truck to last. GM claims that the new leather they are buying is 10 times better than the leather they were putting in last years truck?
I checked around for getting leather installed and could have had it done on my extended cab Silverado for $900.
I jsut bought a new Acura TL with leather seats. I believe that only part of the seat is actuall leather and the other part is vinyl. I am concerned about using a leather product on the seat. Do I have to be sure to only put the stuff on the leather? Or is it ok to get a product such as Lexol on the vinyl too? Any response would be great!
According to Lexol, their leather cleaner can be used on vinyl or leather, but their leather conditioner should only be used on leather. Lexol makes a good vinyl protectant called Vinylex.
It is hard to tell which parts are vinyl and which parts are leather. I found that if I pushed my finger into the fabric and there were fine creases surrounding the place I was poking, it was leather. The vinyl does not crease the same. It's a slight difference, but was enough to tell. In my car, and most others, it is only the actual top surface you sit on and the back surface you lean on that is leather. All other surfaces are matching vinyl.
Lexol said to ask my dealer, but I have found that dealers usually don't really know much about their cars. They may tell you something, but it stands a good chance of being wrong.
Markbuck: Naugahyde is a trademark name for vinyl-treated fabric. It's in the dictionary, too. I grew up in Connecticut, a few towns away from Naugatuck. There was a chemical plant there; I think it was a Uniroyal facility. They developed the process for treating fabric with vinyl, and they found that the material had many applications in which leather had previously been used. Hence, the name Naugahyde. Regards.
Anyone tried Meguiar's Gold Class Leather Cleaner & Conditioner?? How is it? Any comments areappreciated. Does Infiniti use good quality leather (I owned G20)?
After reading numerous accolades for the Leatherique line of products which, to my knowledge, is only available mail-order, I obtained some. They have a web-site at http://www.leatherique.com. I must concur that this is the best stuff I have ever used. It does an amazing job and leaves no oily residue. Highly recommended! And, no, I have nothing to do with the company whatsoever aside from being a new and very happy customer.
I am concerned with protecting my investment in leather interior, and recognize this feature did not come cheaply. But don't you think that Leatherique is a tad costly? It would cost more than $50 to purchase 16oz bottles of oil and cleaner. Is it really that good to justify such an expense, when there are other products that clean and condition for only a fraction of that?
No, that's crazy spending that much money to condition your leather interior, I think. Get a good cream condition like Hide Food (made by Connolly leather, who should know about leather, having processed same for well over 100 years)or similar rich cream product that you can 'work' into the leather slowly and you'll be fine, 2-3 times a year, more under stress conditions of heat or hard use.
I have a 97 GMC Suburban with leather seats, and on certain areas of the seat where they sew the pcs. together, its feels just like vinyl,& its even has the same sort of texture, and the other areas there is no doubt that it is leather. But the others areas.....? Has anyone had the same encounter, or am I just seeing things?
Though the seating surfaces are all that typically are leather, it is sometimes hard to tell exactly which parts are leather and which are vinyl. In my car, when I poke the obvious leather surface, it has slight wrinkles around where I push my finger. The vinyl does not show the wrinkles. That is the only way I have been able to identify which is leather and which is vinyl, though sometimes the difference is so subtle I am not sure.
I wish the owner's manual would identify the exact leather parts. I use Lexol conditioner and it isn't supposed to be used on vinyl. I use Vinylex for vinyl which isn't supposed to be used on leather. So knowing which is which is important.
Help, My daughter who has been relegated to the trunk, not only wrote on my leather seats (beige) Camry but dug into them with a pen while scribbling and the ink seems to be growing. Any suggestions or am I just hosed on this one. It looks bad, but I am afraid to use harse cleaners. INKY
As far as a gouge goes, good luck. Most of the ballpoint ink can be removed with either a methenol or ethenol alcohol. Try it in a hidden spot first and then condition it ASAP. Wife did the same thing to a week old car. BUT, I had a detailer buddy that had some "magic" elixer, actually a paste, that worked quite well. Really suggest you try a professional. I called every dry cleaner in the book without much luck other than the alcohol.
Purchased 3 liter conatiners of Lexol PH Cleaner and Conditioner for $16.99 each at autosupermart. com. This was by far the cheapest I was able to find it, and it arrived at my home the day after I placed my order, without requesting any special or extra handling (such as overnight delivery).
I have a 97 Suburban, Does anyone now my chances of getting a new seat under warranty.The leather seats are starting to crack. I have about 9 months left on the warranty. I figure the way there cracking now that in about 2 years they will be history. Has anyone every had them replace under GMC warranty?
I use Lexol on my '89 Volvo. I've got some small crackling in the driver's seat, nothing through the leather, but enough that you can tell that sometime in the future there'll be a tear or something. So I think Lexol is good.
As for leather in general, let me pass along some info I got working on a story about a baseball-glove maker that produces gloves for Worth.
1. Today's leather isn't as good as 20 years ago. (I responded that that's ridiculous, a cow is a cow.) But the manufacturer told me that today's growth hormones boost growth so much that skins are younger, not as tough, and lack strength because of the rapid growth. He tore a piece in half with his hands - it wasn't difficult - to illustrate.
2. The key is replacing the oils lost with age. His No. 1 fix: Vaseline. (Obviously, not much of a choice for automobile seats.) But the principal is the same - supplying an absorbably oil for the leather. (Never use Neatsfoot oil or anything like it; it hardens leather.)
3. Moisture is the worst enemy. Sweat is the worst of the worst. Do anything to keep the seats dry and clean.
4. I guess the final solution is to do what the glove maker does: spring for kangaroo skins - light, flexible and strong. Hmmmm, the ultimate option.
"spring" for kangaroo skins? Very good, very good.
I have found a product that takes out ballpoint pen stains...
It's called "Classic Soft Trim Step 1 Leather Cleaner" made by Classic Soft Trim, Co in Austin Texas 78746...
The comments about using something oil-based on leather is why I like HIDE FOOD more than Lexol....Lexol is watery, but HF is a cream that you can work into the leather and let stand. I get a softness and shine I cannot reproduce side by side using Lexol.
Regarding the cracking "problem", I doubt you would get any warranty satisfaction...cracking is a normal process in leather, which is why I always tell people that if you're not tolerant of deterioration don't order leather in your vehicle...it's just part of the deal, and the harder you use the seats, the more you'll notice cracking and thread-pulling, etc.
I think the reason that modern leathers aren't generally as durable as in the old days is that they are chemically treated and spray=stained all for the cosmetic effect...a natural leather would, I think ,remain much softer and be much more durable but one coffee spill and you'll have brown upholstery forever.
there have been reports of restorers brining back leather 40 & 50 years old, on some old European cars...this was probably Moroccan leather, which I believe is goatskin.
So it seems that the nicest looking leather can still be the least durable in modern cars...also it depends on what quality hides the manufacturer buys....Comanies like jaguar buy the best, and Volvo one grade down though still a good quality, and so forth down the line.
By the way, did I already bore you with the fact that it takes 5 cows to do a Lexus?
Someone commented on their leather seats stretching so they could see where they sat. This is common on almost all leather seats, and buying a $100,000 europeon car doesn't help. Check out the pictures of the interiors of almost any car in the auto mags. unless the car they shoot is brand new, they all have had noticable stretching in the drivers seat. They key to keeping the cracks reduced or gone is to keep the leather clean and conditioned. I have used Lexol for years and it works better than anything I have found. If you let the dirt get into the leather it acts like little razor blades to tear the leather, and once the crack happens it can't be fixed with any success. About the quality of leather. If someone showed you leather that would tear, it was old and dry. I sell Wheelskins steering wheel covers in my business and that leather is soft, supple and you won't tear it! But compare that premium cover (made from USA cows! to the cheap imports on the store shelves and they will tear easily when you try to stitch them up! They are dry and stiff. Chances are at one point they were good leather, but no longer. Not even Lexol can bring back leather damaged that much.
I've just purchased my first cars with leather seats (all others have had cloth). It's a Mercedes E-320. Can't get the car without leather. Not only leather seats, but the center of the seats are perforated. If I use HIDE FOOD, which I understand is a cream, will the perforations be covered with this cream--potentially ruining clothing?
Hide Food can be bought at most dealerships that sell fancy cars--Jaguar dealers for sure...but I get mine at a local auto parts store (not a chain, but those places where they sell parts to repair shops and have those little rubber tire ashtrays on the counter). Just call around--it's made by the Connolly Leather company, so they should know what's good after 100+ years of doing it.
It hasn't been my experience that American hides are all that durable...they "dress" beautifully( i.e., they look good), as do the hides on the Italian cars...but I can't say I'm convinced they are particularly durable...average quality is what I would say is my current impression. Some Scandinavian hides are good because they don't use barb wire up there like we do. There's a complex grading system that the leather tanners use...whatever they use in Bentleys and Rolls and the highline German cars is simply beautiful and seems to wear very well, but I suspect that even the "luxury" car manufacturers use different grades for different price levels.
Leather with perforations? Are you quite sure it isn't a synthetic insert with leather trim? Mercedes has long used excellent sythetics (M-B Tex I believe it's called) But anyway, I think you're right, you would have to be careful not to glob a cream conditioner in those little holes...I think if you buffed it out with a rough rag (like a deep pile towel) you'd be okay, though.
I used Lexol cleaner and conditioner on my SC 300 2-3 x year in 7 years; found Lexol doesn't last long in keeping leathers as best in a hot climit area. Now trying Zaino leather product on two other Lexus, its great so far. I would try Food Hide if I can get it. I Don't recommend Lexol.
I just bought a container of Hide Food at a local Jaguar dealer. Can it be used on vinyl surfaces, too? I'm sure my '99 Windstar seats have some vinyl elements, but they are very well matched to the leather. I asked the Jag parts guy, but he didn't know (plus, he got all snippy when he heard I was a lowly Ford owner, conveniently forgetting just who Jaguar's master is). I don't want to condition the leather while trashing the vinyl.
I have one more question before I feed my hide. The haughty Jaguar fellow told me that I should clean the seats before conditioning. Do you recommend any specific cleaners? My owners manual says to wipe the seats with a damp cloth followed by a dry cloth. The leather is light brown/camel and not terribly dirty yet, because I've only had the vehicle for a few weeks. Thanks.
#88 Don't shoot the messenger! For your new vehicle, a damp cloth/dry cloth should suffice. You might want to ask him what year Jag he owns.. Tell him you were curious about the long term effectiveness of hide food...
Hi: I have been using Lexol with success. The May issue of Corvette Fever magazine recommends its choices for best detailing products. For leather, they suggest Zaino leather. For paint finishes, they suggest Finish First and Zaino.
My local Jag dealer does not carry Connolly Hide Food, but he told me that the BMW dealer carries it. If your Jag dealer doesn't have it try the BMW and MB dealers.
Has anyone compared the Connolly Vs Lexol. How long does it last?
Shiftright: I often see separate bottles of leather cleaner and conditioner, plus bottles that claim to combine the two. You speak of Hide Food like it's a conditioner only; if so, what would you use to periodically clean your leather? My car is new (bought it in November); any reason not to use Lexol (since my seats don't need restoration)?
others: re: Zaino. I agree that Zaino polish is awesome stuff. But I must confess to be incredulous: how can they make EVERYTHING fantastically? That is, while I believe that Zaino polish is probably the best stuff around, I am having trouble believing that their leather cleaner and leather conditioner products are also tops. Just a cynic, I guess.
I recommend wearing gloves as protection for any chemical we use. Zaino leather conditioner is awsome; It makes a a big different compared to Lexol I used for years.
re: Classic Soft Trim Step 1 Leather Cleaner Is this a spot cleaner, or usable for generally cleaning the seats? I saw when you had posted it above, but the way you mentioned it, it was unclear that you could use it like you would the Lexol Cleaner (not the conditioner).
anyone: 1) I've seen a bunch of products that say they're good for cleaning/conditioning vinyl and leather. I'm somewhat skeptical about this claim: I would think that the two substances are two different for one product to work well for both 2) Any preferences for greasing weatherstripping around door and windows? 3) how about for cleaning the insides of auto windows?
No, the leather cleaner doesn't work on vinyl very well, so that's not interchangeable...but the Hide Food works very nicely on my vinyl.
I don't care for spot cleaners because one tends to work on that spot and rub the hell out of it and before you know it, you've got a discoloration in the dye.
Lexol makes a vinyl protectorant called Vinylex that does a great job on weatherstripping. Vinylex works great on all vinyl surfaces as well as on tires. Lexol recommends their leather cleaner and conditioner for leather and the Vinylex for vinyl and rubber. Works for me.
Oh, what the hey, I'll throw another product in. Since some sources say Hide Food will make your car smell like rancid oil in a matter of time, and others say Lexol takes up to five hours for the oil to soak in, and yet another suggested Pinnacle (www.autowax.com) conditioner - with UV protection, on top of it. Comments?
I went ahead and purchased the lexol series yesterday: Leather cleaner, leather conditioner, and the vynil cleaner, aka "Vinylex" as vivona mentioned. Should also mention that the Vinylex has a "uv protector" in it. The whole cost for the three ($7.99 each) totaled to $24.
I'm not promoting that lexol is "the best", but I've heard it is a good product. I decided on the lexol mainly, because it was available at my local Pep Boys. And, I didn't want to spend too much time chasing down other products.
The Leather cleaning/conditioning application was simple enough. However, since my leather seats are new and had no apparent dirt (especially the rear one that are never used) I can't say I noticed a difference. I went ahead and did the whole process as a preventative measure.
Hi Jess- Just curious, where did you hear that lexol takes 5 hours for oil to soak in?
At the lexol website they say: "20 to 30 minutes to absorb the oils and preservatives... After cleaning and conditioning, the interior should be allowed one to three hours drying time, depending on temperature and humidity." (My seats seemed to be dry in about an hour.)
Question: Since my van's rear seats are hardly ever used... (I don't have kids), do I still need to clean and condition them the same as the front seats- every 2-3 months.
It did feel a bit funny washing and conditioning leather seats that are brand new and spotlessly clean. Also, my rear windows are tinted, so the seats are pretty shielded from the sun. Any opinions about how often to clean/condition those seats you never use?
Comments
I checked around for getting leather installed and could have had it done on my extended cab Silverado for $900.
According to Lexol, their leather cleaner can be used on vinyl or leather, but their leather conditioner should only be used on leather. Lexol makes a good vinyl protectant called Vinylex.
It is hard to tell which parts are vinyl and which parts are leather. I found that if I pushed my finger into the fabric and there were fine creases surrounding the place I was poking, it was leather. The vinyl does not crease the same. It's a slight difference, but was enough to tell. In my car, and most others, it is only the actual top surface you sit on and the back surface you lean on that is leather. All other surfaces are matching vinyl.
Lexol said to ask my dealer, but I have found that dealers usually don't really know much about their cars. They may tell you something, but it stands a good chance of being wrong.
Naugahyde is a trademark name for vinyl-treated fabric. It's in the dictionary, too. I grew up in Connecticut, a few towns away from Naugatuck. There was a chemical plant there; I think it was a Uniroyal facility. They developed the process for treating fabric with vinyl, and they found that the material had many applications in which leather had previously been used. Hence, the name Naugahyde. Regards.
-- Dale
But the others areas.....? Has anyone had the same encounter, or am I just seeing things?
I wish the owner's manual would identify the exact leather parts. I use Lexol conditioner and it isn't supposed to be used on vinyl. I use Vinylex for vinyl which isn't supposed to be used on leather. So knowing which is which is important.
My daughter who has been relegated to the trunk, not only wrote on my leather seats (beige) Camry but dug into them with a pen while scribbling and the ink seems to be growing. Any suggestions or am I just hosed on this one. It looks bad, but I am afraid to use harse cleaners.
INKY
As for leather in general, let me pass along some info I got working on a story about a baseball-glove maker that produces gloves for Worth.
1. Today's leather isn't as good as 20 years ago. (I responded that that's ridiculous, a cow is a cow.) But the manufacturer told me that today's growth hormones boost growth so much that skins are younger, not as tough, and lack strength because of the rapid growth. He tore a piece in half with his hands - it wasn't difficult - to illustrate.
2. The key is replacing the oils lost with age. His No. 1 fix: Vaseline. (Obviously, not much of a choice for automobile seats.) But the principal is the same - supplying an absorbably oil for the leather. (Never use Neatsfoot oil or anything like it; it hardens leather.)
3. Moisture is the worst enemy. Sweat is the worst of the worst. Do anything to keep the seats dry and clean.
4. I guess the final solution is to do what the glove maker does: spring for kangaroo skins - light, flexible and strong. Hmmmm, the ultimate option.
I have found a product that takes out ballpoint pen stains...
It's called "Classic Soft Trim Step 1 Leather Cleaner" made by Classic Soft Trim, Co in Austin Texas 78746...
The comments about using something oil-based on leather is why I like HIDE FOOD more than Lexol....Lexol is watery, but HF is a cream that you can work into the leather and let stand. I get a softness and shine I cannot reproduce side by side using Lexol.
Regarding the cracking "problem", I doubt you would get any warranty satisfaction...cracking is a normal process in leather, which is why I always tell people that if you're not tolerant of deterioration don't order leather in your vehicle...it's just part of the deal, and the harder you use the seats, the more you'll notice cracking and thread-pulling, etc.
I think the reason that modern leathers aren't generally as durable as in the old days is that they are chemically treated and spray=stained all for the cosmetic effect...a natural leather would, I think ,remain much softer and be much more durable but one coffee spill and you'll have brown upholstery forever.
there have been reports of restorers brining back leather 40 & 50 years old, on some old European cars...this was probably Moroccan leather, which I believe is goatskin.
So it seems that the nicest looking leather can still be the least durable in modern cars...also it depends on what quality hides the manufacturer buys....Comanies like jaguar buy the best, and Volvo one grade down though still a good quality, and so forth down the line.
By the way, did I already bore you with the fact that it takes 5 cows to do a Lexus?
They key to keeping the cracks reduced or gone is to keep the leather clean and conditioned. I have used Lexol for years and it works better than anything I have found. If you let the dirt get into the leather it acts like little razor blades to tear the leather, and once the crack happens it can't be fixed with any success.
About the quality of leather. If someone showed you leather that would tear, it was old and dry. I sell Wheelskins steering wheel covers in my business and that leather is soft, supple and you won't tear it! But compare that premium cover (made from USA cows!
Don M.
Also, do you think tinting the vehicle's windows would help (reducing sun exposure) with leather maintenance? Just a thought.
Thanks for any info.
It hasn't been my experience that American hides are all that durable...they "dress" beautifully( i.e., they look good), as do the hides on the Italian cars...but I can't say I'm convinced they are particularly durable...average quality is what I would say is my current impression. Some Scandinavian hides are good because they don't use barb wire up there like we do. There's a complex grading system that the leather tanners use...whatever they use in Bentleys and Rolls and the highline German cars is simply beautiful and seems to wear very well, but I suspect that even the "luxury" car manufacturers use different grades for different price levels.
Leather with perforations? Are you quite sure it isn't a synthetic insert with leather trim? Mercedes has long used excellent sythetics (M-B Tex I believe it's called) But anyway, I think you're right, you would have to be careful not to glob a cream conditioner in those little holes...I think if you buffed it out with a rough rag (like a deep pile towel) you'd be okay, though.
Yes, It is great!!! Smells wonderful also, but a small benefit as compared to being a good leather treatment.
http://www.carcareonline.com/leather_care.html
And let us know how it all turns out please!
Don't shoot the messenger! For your new vehicle, a damp cloth/dry cloth should suffice. You might want to ask him what year Jag he owns.. Tell him you were curious about the long term effectiveness of hide food...
I have been using Lexol with success. The May issue of Corvette Fever magazine recommends its choices for best detailing products. For leather, they suggest Zaino leather. For paint finishes, they suggest Finish First and Zaino.
Has anyone compared the Connolly Vs Lexol. How long does it last?
I often see separate bottles of leather cleaner and conditioner, plus bottles that claim to combine the two. You speak of Hide Food like it's a conditioner only; if so, what would you use to periodically clean your leather? My car is new (bought it in November); any reason not to use Lexol (since my seats don't need restoration)?
others:
re: Zaino. I agree that Zaino polish is awesome stuff. But I must confess to be incredulous: how can they make EVERYTHING fantastically? That is, while I believe that Zaino polish is probably the best stuff around, I am having trouble believing that their leather cleaner and leather conditioner products are also tops. Just a cynic, I guess.
It's called "Classic Soft Trim Step 1 Leather
Cleaner" made by Classic Soft Trim, Co., in Austin Texas 78746...even gets out ball point pen marks....
Looks like we need to have a Lexol / Hide Food / Zaino Face-Off sometime soon at the Edmunds Town Hall Users Lab....
Is this a spot cleaner, or usable for generally cleaning the seats? I saw when you had posted it above, but the way you mentioned it, it was unclear that you could use it like you would the Lexol Cleaner (not the conditioner).
anyone:
1) I've seen a bunch of products that say they're good for cleaning/conditioning vinyl and leather. I'm somewhat skeptical about this claim: I would think that the two substances are two different for one product to work well for both
2) Any preferences for greasing weatherstripping around door and windows?
3) how about for cleaning the insides of auto windows?
I don't care for spot cleaners because one tends to work on that spot and rub the hell out of it and before you know it, you've got a discoloration in the dye.
I'm not promoting that lexol is "the best", but I've heard it is a good product. I decided on the lexol mainly, because it was available at my local Pep Boys. And, I didn't want to spend too much time chasing down other products.
The Leather cleaning/conditioning application was simple enough. However, since my leather seats are new and had no apparent dirt (especially the rear one that are never used) I can't say I noticed a difference. I went ahead and did the whole process as a preventative measure.
Hi Jess- Just curious, where did you hear that lexol takes 5 hours for oil to soak in?
At the lexol website they say: "20 to 30 minutes to absorb the oils and preservatives... After cleaning and conditioning, the interior should be allowed one to three hours drying time, depending on temperature and humidity." (My seats seemed to be dry in about an hour.)
For those interested, here are lexol's cleaning & conditioning instructions: http://www.lexol.com/docs.htm
Question: Since my van's rear seats are hardly ever used... (I don't have kids), do I still need to clean and condition them the same as the front seats- every 2-3 months.
It did feel a bit funny washing and conditioning leather seats that are brand new and spotlessly clean. Also, my rear windows are tinted, so the seats are pretty shielded from the sun. Any opinions about how often to clean/condition those seats you never use?
I would say on a minimum of 2-1 ratio; i.e., do all surfaces once a quarter. So you would do your drivers seat each 2 months.