Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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I have a 98 Honda Accord.It has about the same milage as yours.And I have the same issue of check engine light.
Did you find the solution.Cause I have check my Fuel cap and tightened it too,but the light is still on.
Mines was p1259 " Immobilizer to PCM signal error problem". I have no idea what that means.
Is there any chance you have two vehicles with two "smart keys"? I suppose if they are in close proximity on a key-chain, that might cause problems.
When you went to AutoZone, did they read the code and reset the light? If so, maybe I would try that again and use another key and see if the light comes back up. Maybe the key you are using has lost it's smarts or something...
Once again Thanks!!!!
i have a used 2004 toyota corrolla that i just bought 2 weeks ago..it has a little over 34,000 miles on it...i am ASSUMING it is the check engine light that came on (the car came with no manual)...it is the little orange light to the left of the speedometer...
not sure why this would come on? it is NOT th oil light, is it???
why would it suddenly come on and do i need to do anything?
thanks
tracie
greg
The engine control computer is seeing a low voltage signal from the post-cat O2 sensor. First thing to do would be to backprobe the ECM and see if the signal's low there, then move back toward the sensor to determine whether it's a wiring or connector problem.
He also said the front driverside bearing needs to be replaced. is the bearing the part that rotates the blake discs? what symptoms are caused by a bad bearing?
Thank you very very much!
Jane
That didn't work for me. I change the oil and filter and notice only 3 quart of oil was drained from my engine. Checked the spec and it suppose to be 3.7 quarts. The filter is small and the size of 8 oz cup. So the filter will not hold much oil. The dipstick, I thought, might be the wrong one on my 1.8 engine because I always fill my oil to just before the scratch mark say max begins. With American made cars of course. This is the first foreign car I've ever own. Anyway, I fill the oil to the MAX mark. Also, I disconnected the Ground Wire from the battery in hoping the computer in the care will reset itself.
I should have started the car with the oil filled to the max first and see if the "check engine" light went away. Anyway, the light is gone now and I will not know what was the cause. So, If you want to try gas cap first. Then the oil and filter change and make sure it is up to the mark. See it that works. If not, try the ground wire trick.
I only tried this because PEPBOYs wanted 79 bucks to get diagnose code from the computer.
The wheel bearing is the component which attaches the brake disc and wheel to the car and allows them to rotate. Typical symptoms are a growling noise, and if it's getting really worn there will be looseness in the wheel when the car's lifted and the wheel moved side to side. Leave it long enough, and the wheel will part company with the car.
Oil .7 qt low will not set a diagnostic trouble code.
I only tried this because PEPBOYs wanted 79 bucks to get diagnose code from the computer
AutoZone performs this service no charge.
When people say engine tune up, what are included in the service? the technician who quoted $350 bucks said he would replace plugs, wires, PCV, and do a flush (?). is that good enough? I read this thread and got the idea that so many places might go wrong. how should I proceed and what might happen after the tune up?
Thanks a lot!!!!!
My check engine light is "always" on even after I disconnect the battery- I can't get it to flash any codes when I short out the test terminal.
(Its a non fedral car so no reset switch for millage,,,,)
The light is on even with the green plug off of the computer. The manuals I've got say its a short in the B13 Violet and Yellow Wire that goes to the 'check engine light' and ground .
Any ideas any or help would be greatly apperciated- I don't know what to do next but I'm open to ANY help because the trip to the dealer costs more than the car is worth...
Thanks, Tom
You could throw a 1000$ worth of parts into it and never fix it-
LOTS of thing will cause idle to be rough- Bad wires or plugs,Fuel injectors, Idle Air controll motor.. .
I took it to Pep Boys, they told me has P0300 and P0306 codes, which it was misfire, and recommended tune up, which they did. Problem continues and they told me they couldn't do nothing else for me, because the problem didn't happen when they had it, and no codes were found even when the light was on (?).
If I drive it on the streets there is not problems and eventually light comes off, until I drive on the freeway again and start all over again. After I re start the engine, I can only drive for 5-10 minutes before the engine fails again, usually if I dont' do nothing to the car, next day the car will run good but with the "service light" on.
The van has 146k, and people in Pep Boys told me that It looks like, beside this problem, it was in good condition.
Please, give me some kind of guidance before I take to a dealer or somewhere else.
I have a 2002 Prizm. The day after I bought it, the "check engine" light came on for no apparent reason. The dealer said the fault code indicated an evap leak. They couldn't find anything, so they reset it and 1 week later, it came on again, also showing evap leak. This time they checked eveyrthing more thoroughly and tightened up all hoses, fittings, etc. One week later it was on again, so they looked and loked, got tech support from somewhere else and replaced a solenoid. Another week went by and now it's on again for a 4th time. I'm taking it back this Monday who knows what they'll come up with...
It seems to drive fine, at least I haven't noticed anything that feels wrong in the little over a month that I've had it. But that light keeps coming on. And yes, I always tighten up the gas cap. And never fill up when the car's running. And if it was the O2 sensor (another frequent comment) wouldn't they have figured that out by now?
One more thing, and this may be a big coincidence--this last time when it came on it seemed to be when the odometer turned over to 33000 exactly. Which made me initially wonder if it was an alert to have scheduled maintenance performed, but I couldn't find anything about that in the manual. I didn't mention that to the dealer, I want them to search hard and find the real issue.
Any guesses?
Check the EGR ports in the intake manifold, could be plugged up with carbon. A piece of speedo cable in a variable speed drill makes a handy "snake".
You can rent a scanner and scan the codes or ask them if they will scan it for you.
Then you can let us know and we can help you determine where to start looking for a problem.
Remember, the codes don't say to replace any sensors, they say to diagnose the circuit.
Sometimes that means the sensor is bad, sometimes it doesn't.
but ill get the exact code.
Well, The service engine soon light came on last night, I had the code read today at autozone and got the P0462 code-"Fuel level sensor Circuit low input" can anyone tell me what this means? I thought it was loose gas cap, but light is still on. Autozone manager told me that I "overfilled the gas tank and caused the light to come on" but I haven't gotten gas in over 10 ten days and the light didn't come on until the tank is half full. the autozone manager said I would have to go to the dealer to erase and they couldn't do it. how can I erase the code without going to the dealer? can a loose gas cap cause this light to come on? can overfilling the gas tank make this sensor go off, if so does it need to be replaced? Thanks for any help.
My car would drive fine for a while and then quit.
Yours could be a fuel pump, but your engine light going on seems to indicate something else. My engine light did not go on at all, nor did any fail codes occur.
You can check your fail codes by turning the ignition in this order with about
1 second delay between them. on,off,on,off,on,off,on,off,on (yup, *on* 5 times)
The engine lights will flash 21 then any codes you have, and end with 55.
I think that these are just the basic codes. I think that the shops can get more information than these, but there are quite a few codes. Check a maint manual to see what the codes mean. ~$20 investment.
If you end up replacing your fuel pump and filter...
I replaced mine myself. Took me about 5 hours. (I could do it in two now)
I bought a new pump and filter *and* fuel pump relay, just to be safe.
I bought a new plastic fuel pump lid/ring for $12 as I did not want to buy the
pricey special tool to remove my old one. I just took a small drill and *carefully*
drilled holes ~1/16 an inch deep along a vertical line, then broke the cap off
with a standard screwdriver. You do not have to take the tank off, just loosen the two straps that hold the tank up. I siphoned out gas to get the tank to about 1/4 full to make it easier to hold the tank up.
Oh, also, you could possibly buy one of the fuel pressure gauges ~$30 and stick
it on and leave it on for a test run when you want to have it fail, and you could
see if the gas pressure is low right when it fails. This is an indicator that the fuel pump is weak. They are finnikey if the fuel pressure is too low, or too high.
Maybe more details than you care for, but, that's the engineer in me. :-)
(HP Engineer that is... we make the best laserjet printers in the world!)
mveit_2@msn.com