Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
Options
Comments
Certainly ready for another tune-up.
Maybe I can help you but first my name is Tony. Base on the info you gave I think you should do the following: go to your local Ford dealer to purchase (1) a set of ignition wires (also known as spark plug wires), (2) 4 spark plugs, (3) 1 Distributor Cap and (4) 1 Distributor Rotor. Have a professional install these parts on your car. MAKE SURE YOU PURCHASE THESE PARTS AT YOUR FORD DEALER because they are better quality parts than, say AutoZone, R&S Strauss, or PepBoys. It's worth paying 5 or ten dollars once rather than paying $20, 30, or $40.00 dollars re-doing the job two or three times, or getting stuck on the highway. How much do you think the tow will cost due to defective parts? I learned from experience that you get better parts at the dealer than at a local auto parts store. If you really think about it makes sense. Parts at the dealer costs more because the parts have to go through what's called "quality control standards." In other words, each and every part purchased at a dealer is tested to make sure not only that it works but also that it works properly under different stress levels. Other makers of parts only copy the parts and do not subject their parts to quality control tests. Also while you are at it, you should change the air filter, PCV valve (if your car has one), and the gas filter. MAKE SURE YOU ALSO BUY THESE PARTS ALSO AT YOUR FORD DEALER. I know what I'm talking about because I have over 20 years experience fixing automobiles. If you have any problems, just post a message here. Good luck. By the way, what is your name?
Hi ,
Its Tony again and I forgot to tell you that I found a recall on your car. It's listed below. Also, while you're at the Ford dealer check with the service department to see if there are any open recalls on your car. Make sure you have your VIN number with you because you will need so that the service department can check for the recalls.
NHTSA Campaign Number: 96E017000
Vehicle/Equipment Make: FORD
Vehicle/Eqipment Model: FESTIVA
Model Year: 1993
Mfg Campaign Number:
Mfg Component Desc: SUSPENSION:FRONT:CONTROL ARM
Mfg Involved in Recall: FORD MOTOR COMPANY
Manufacture Dates: 04-01-96 through 06-01-96
Type of Report: (E) Vehicle
Potential # of Units Affected: 94
Date Owner Notified by Mfg: 07-96-96
Recall Initiated By: MFR
Mfg Responsible for Recall: MOOG AUTOMOTIVE
Report Recieved Date: 06-96-96
Record Creation Date: 06-96-96
Regulation Part Number:
FMVSS Number:
Defect Summary: EQUIPMENT DESCRIPTION: AFTERMARKET BALL JOINT/CONTROL ARM MANUFACTURED BY MOOG INDUSTRIES. DUE TO MISPACKAGING, CERTAIN BALL JOINT/CONTROL ARM ASSEMBLIES WERE INCORRECTLY PLACED IN THE WRONG BOXES.
Consequence Summary: THESE BALL JOINT/CONTROL ARM ASSEMBLIES WILL NOT FIT INTO THE FRAME RECESS WITHOUT BEING ALTERED. ALSO THE STUD IS UNDERSIZED AND WILL NOT FIT THE SPINDLE PROPERLY POSSIBLY CAUSING A LOSS OF STEERING CONTROL INCREASING THE RISK OF A VEHICLE ACCIDENT.
Corrective Summary: MOOG WILL REPLACE THE INCORRECTLY PACKAGED ASSEMBLIES WITH CORRECT BALL JOINT/CONTROL ARM ASSEMBLIES.
the above recall info retrieved from: http://www.allworldauto.com/recalls/NHTSA_96E017000_1993_FORD_FESTIVA_recall_464- 4.html
Please, some ideas what else could be wrong, even when the code for the catalytic converter comes on. They fixed it twice already!!
So the data (codes) need to be interpreted correctly. In this case, something must be making the catalytic very unhappy, some rich fuel mixture, etc.
So perhaps your mechanics are reading the catalytic's distress signals, but have not found the reason why the catalytic is so overloaded with work.
Now, my car is super choppy when I accelerate and the check engine light starts to flash after driving it for a few minutes. Any advice?
Also, the spark plugs. Were they the exact same ones as you took out?
If not, then that is half your problem.
Most newer vehicles don't like different brand spark plugs and VW and Honda really don't like different brands.
Who replaced the spark plugs?
Are they sure they got the plug wires on properly?
Lastly. NEVER, EVER, EVER listen to a parts person.
They are NOT mechanics.
can reset it without taking it to the dealer?
Hold the buttons for at least 10 seconds, until the indicator resets.
I have a 98 Avalon XL with 57,000 miles on it, Fed and Calif emissions, that developed a crack/split in the flex pipe. The local shop replaced the pipe and converter (one piece unit). Within an hour the check engine light came on, the car began running rough, smoke and stink from exhaust, surging... I put my OBD-II on it and came up with a lean condition, multiple mis-fires in cyls 1,3,5 and the Bank 1 Sensor 2 AF/O2 reads a dead o.oooV under all rpm. If I clear the codes, it runs ok for a few minutes, continuous monitoring still shows 000V from the rearmost monitor/sensor, check engine light then comes on and it goes back to running rough. Almost as though the sensor was disconnected.
I brought it to the same shop who put his OBD on it, came up with the same and a few more readings but was defensive to the point where "it couldn't be anything I did" which unfortunately I expected. Seems too coincidental, thoughts please?
As I'm a newbie to the list, I hope this post is OK. If off-list responses are more appropriate, please PM me.
doc
There obviously is a slim possibility that the sensor failed coincidentally on it's own, at the same time of the exhaust repair.
Perhaps if this is a shop where you have a relationship and do repeat business with, you can split the cost of repair. You pay for the sensor at his parts cost, and he puts it in for free.
what gives??
Some auto parts chains will pull the codes for you as well on a complimentary basis, you can then look the error codes up on the internet for your vehicle.
My Sienna threw the same code (P0420), and I have found that it could either be a bad catalytic converter or a the engine control module (ECM), as my sensors are good. The ECM's logic has been revised, and if this code appears, your dealer should replace the ECM, free, if your 96/80,000 warranty is still in effect. (Google: TSB EG047-05). I'm stuck though, with 127,000 miles...
~Pete
As long as it runs, step on the gas.
After retirement, we considered moving to the Peoples Republic of Puget Sound, but only for a second.
Today the road is full of snow while we're comfortable not sliding around the streets of Portland.
Sometimes you can reset the check engine light and it will stay off long enough to pass your smog test, but it's a good idea to have the codes read to see what's going on under there.
The CEL light should always be addressed regardless if you are in a smog state or not. It could be related to nothing of significance (Ioose gas cap, etc.) or it could be the precursor to your car blowing up.
They will ALWAYS say..." It's probably a loose wire or something minor"
Yeah, right!
A store HAS to assume the worst because that's usually what it is. It can be a bad transmission, bad computer or a bad converter.
We will appraise the car accordingly and so will any smart store.
Had a trade in last summer with an air bag light on. A Volvo naturally. The Volvo Dealer charged us 1200.00 to fix whatever it was. It wa NOT a loose wire!
Hmm. Chinese spam. Sweet sour.
The engine computer is monitoring all of the sensors in the car, and using them to adjust other things and keep the engine running at optimal condition.
Some sensors are always sending back a signal, and if you don't get a signal, you know something is most likely bad. For instance, each wheel has sensor, and when the vehicle is moving forward straight the computer would see 4 signals, all at the same pulse rate. If you only got 3, then it's relatively easy to figure out that either one wheel is locked up and skidding, or the sensor is bad.
Some sensors, the computer has to deduce there are problems, by the process of elimination. Or, it can never know exactly and call out multiple possibilities. The knock sensor is a sensor where you don't normally get a signal, except when engine is heavily overloaded and starts to ping/detonate early. If the computer never receives a signal, the computer thinks that the engine is running okay....yet the engine could be severly overloaded and spark timings and mixture should be adjusted.
The analogy I'd give you is a fire alarm. You don't normally hear a fire alarm in your building, and because of that you think it's a safe working environment. However, if you walk out of the office, and it feels warmer than usual, you may think the air conditioner is not working correctly. A little bit later, if you also see and smell smoke, then you now suspect there is a fire, and then realize that the fire/smoke sensor must be defective because it never triggered and reported a problem.
So sometimes it is relatively quick and straight forward to figure out EXACTLY what is wrong. Most of the time, the engine can very quickly deduce there's only a couple of potential causes to the problem. Other times it takes more analysis or longer time to monitor multiple situations before it's able to figure out the cause. Sometimes the computer will never figure out the right cause, and it takes a humanoid to figure it out, by process of elimination or deduction.
Thats where I'd be starting to look.