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P.S. I'd like that list,that would be cool,my kids would really get a kick out of it. I think they own most of the Disney films.
any of these:
P0440 Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction
P0441 Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow
P0442 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (small leak)
P0443 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Malfunction
P0444 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Open
P0445 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Shorted
P0446 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction
P0447 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Open
P0448 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Shorted
P0449 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Valve/Solenoid Circuit Malfunction
P0450 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Malfunction
P0451 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Range/Performance
P0452 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Low Input
P0453 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor High Input
P0454 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Intermittent
P0455 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak)
P1441 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Flow During Non-Purge
Then more than likely the fuel cap is the problem.I would have them replace it and test the fuel tank system.(it is a test that involves a pressure check on the fuel system)>I'm pretty sure most DEQ/EPA test centers in CA do the test as part of the emmissions test.
I know this is frustrating for you and I apologize,but it is a matter of asking the right info and getting the right answers. The fuel up answer changed a lot of things on the diagnosis,so it put me in a different direction.
With out having the vehicle in front of me to check things,I have to go on symptoms,which is 10 times harder than having the vehicle to check things.Sorry for the frustration.
I'm so grateful for ALL of you and what you do to help others in a jam. Big hugs.
Every now and then he might live up to his nickname - but NEVER when he's trying to help one of the members of our community! ;->
Thanks 0patience - you really ARE a tremendous help - Town Hall is much the better for your assistance.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
Thanks in advance,
When you say that the check engine light comes on whenever you start the car,does it go out right away?
If it is,that is how it is supposed to work, if it doesn't go out,Ok,there is a problem.
The bad news is that your vehicle is the OBD2 system and it requires a scanner to access the codes.
Sorry.
Unfortunately, I guess my car is in 2nd case.
I'm going to bring it to a workshop and have it checked. Which one is usually better, the dealer or an independent shop?
I feel much more comfortable now since 0patience provided a homepage link with all the OBD2 codes so that I'm able to know what's going on with my car. I'll keep you guys updated.
I really love this community thanks to 0patience and many other nice people.
That is just my opinion,though.
And THEN.....yesterday evening, he called, ever so nicey-poo. "Seems we did find circuit trouble in the wiring harness, and your OS Sensor. Blahblahblah, and your gas was burning too rich. The suggestions were amazingly accurate for someone who never saw your truck." HOW'S THAT, GUYS??? It's still not ready, but I think this might be it, I hope. So much thanks to you and the others!!! Don't know what would have happened if I hadn't found you. I'll let you know how it comes out!! Over and out....a "Grateful Groupie..." XX00MM
If you need more help,you know where to find us.
Does anyone know what could be the problem and how to resolve it without taking it back to the dealer? Does anyone know how to reset computer?
Thank you
There is probably alot of advantage to having a stand alone unit that can also monitor, so I'll probably go with the Autoxray.
I did change the transmission fluid a couple of days before the light came on but maybe that was coincidence. Engine runs fine, so I took the word of one post here and tried resetting it myself by disconnecting the negative cable of the battery for about 10 minutes. It worked and has not come back on in two days so far.
One mechanic told me disconnecting the battery would not work on this and newer models, they would have to reset it themselves. Well, obviously he was wrong.
I have to side with the mechanic on this.If you get a hard code,you won't be able to clear the codes by disconnecting the battery,but you may know more about the system than I do.
Oh yeah,when you call the customer service number,they should give you an event number,make sure you keep it in a place you can find it.If this goes further,you will need it.Is there another dealer in your area that you can go to?
If there is,I would,the warranty is good at any dealer.
The neutral safety switch is designed to prevent cranking the engine while in gear,if you are in any gear other than neutral or park,it doesn't allow voltage to the starter.That is all it does.
So,in answer to your question.NO,the neutral safety switch will NOT cause the check engine light to come on.But,the back up lights are controlled by it if it is an automatic,if it is a manual trans then it isn't. It sounds more like you have an electrical problem more than a problem with the PCM. Best bet,pay a reputable shop to see if there are any trouble codes.Explain to them what is happening and that ALL you need is to retrieve the codes,nothing more,to obtain the correct advice as what to do,they may even offer assistance.
since they made me sign the work order before they
ordered the part?
NO,you haven't bought the part and they can send it back.Have they done any work that you haven't paid for?Call them and tell them that you called Chrysler and that they se up an appointment for you at another dealer and if they want to squack about the part,they can call Chrysler.
How do you know so much about
vehicles?
I've been a mechanic for just shy of 20 years,I handle the repairs for a fleet in my region and have to constantly deal with independant shops and dealers and the manufacturers.(Some of our vehicles are still under warranty)Mainly,I am a heavy equipment mechanic,but since our fleet has cars and pickups,I have to keep up with them.So they pay me to know how to keep the repair costs at a minimum.I have probably $5000 worth of information at home,too. So it helps when I need to review a problem.
Opatience: In my '97, which I guess ought to be OBD2, I am still able to get the trouble codes via the ignition key sequence (ie. On Off On Off On within 5 seconds). Any chance Debbi10 can do the same in her '98?
Debbi10: Do you have a digital odometer? If yours will work like my 97 does, try turning the ignition on and off, on and off, and back on. Do this quickly (within 5 seconds), then wait several more seconds. If it works then:
1) If you have the digital odometer, the odometer miles will temporarilly disappear and 2 digit hexadecimal trouble codes will begin to appear. The last trouble code will be "55", so if that's the first one to appear, then you don't have any trouble codes stored (at least if it works like mine). While the 2 digit number is displayed, the check engine light will also be blinking because....
2) Whether you have the digital odometer or not, the check engine light will "blink" the code. For example, if the light blinks 5 times, followed by a short pause and then 5 more times, thats "55". Etc. Maybe you can get an idea what the codes are before you go in. I have my factory service manual and can translate the 2 digit hex code to the Pxxxx scan tool code, if there are any.
I don't think they made any changes between the 97 and 98 model years. I don't know which Jeep you have, but I suspect they share the same computer system.
Yes,should be able to retrieve the codes by the key on/off method. Jeep/Chrysler(certain ones)is the exception to the OBD2 setup. Jeep/Chrysler uses both forms of trouble codes,the 2 digit and the P0 codes.
Thanks,I went braindead,I'm feeling much better now though.ha ha
One other thing. There is a MIL code 37 (P1899) "P/N Switch Stuck in Park or Gear". The DTC description is "Incorrect input state detected for the Park/Neutral switch, auto trans only". Might this be what the first dealer found?
I'm not sure if there's still anything wrong with it or the car just fixed itself automatically.
Anyway, I'm so grateful to all of your helps and comments here. I think I found a nice home for my cars.
Thanks, guys!
_____
| | |
---------
|E|F|G|H|
[|-|-|-|-|]
|D|C|B|A|
---------
Is that clear? If need be, I can scan in the picture in the service manual and post it....
When in Park (P), there should be continuity between B and C. (Because it has to be in gear, I don't know whether you can test it while holding it at the dining room table - maybe it has a mechanical lever on it that you can "shift" to simulate changing gears?).
When in Reverse (R), there should be continuity between A and E
When in Neutral (N), same as Park (continuity betwen B and C)
When in Drive (D), there is no continuity between any of the terminals.
When in thrid (3), continuity between A and G
When in First and Second (1/2), continuity between A and H.
Good luck.
The reason I ask is that I just read an IIHS report describing auto safety that had a paragraph that noted how the number of rollover deaths in the Cherokee is about the same as with other small and midsize cars. Which is surprising to them because SUVs tend to have much higher rollover death rates. They weren't sure why the Cherokee has such a low rate....
My 91 Olds Cutlass Ciera SL, (66,000 miles) which I just bought, is tripping the check engine light. It does so when the car is accelerated, and goes out when car is slowed down. Gas mileage has not changed, performance has not changed. No leaks detected, no odd smell. For what it's worth, it started tripping when I used the car heater during a cool spell here, that however, may be a coincidence.
Also I am wondering about disconnecting the negative cable on the battery to clean the computer out..i assume just for 10 minutes?
Thanks to anybody who might have a clue. I like this car and hope it will last a good long time!
So now I need some one to tell me what the code means. The code is 1 2 7 2 5 5. Also, should I bother going to a dealer or am I better off with a private shop?
I'm going to assume that you have 12, 72, 55 (if you were counting flashes there should have been a short pause between 1 & 2 and a long pause between 2 & 7, etc.
12 just means the battery was disconected within the last 50 Key-on cycles. The "check engine light" would not illuminate for this code.
72 (P0420) Means your catalyst efficiency is below the required level. The "check engine light" WILL illuminate for this code.
55 tells you that there are no more codes.
0patience may know whether the codes are the same for your vehicle as they are for mine.
http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html
These are two different references for the codes.
I did not see a code 72 though.
You can retrieve the codes yourself,go to this webpage. http://www.batauto.com/Gm.html
It will take you thru the steps of retrieving the codes and what their definitions are.
daddioof4,
The PO420 is a code 64 for your vehicle,so that isn't going to work.I went thru the codes for your vehicel and it doesn't show a code 72 for your vehicle.Recheck and confirm the codes.
Has anyone experienced this problem before or any advise? I'm taking it to the dealer tomorrow. Thanks.
The five star dealer here in Charleston has replaced the head gasket, the intake gasket, plugs, plug wires, solenoids, rerouted the plug wires, cleaned the combustion chamber, replaced injectors and now it's in to have the cats replaced because the car had been misfiring so much they said they're clogged up. They've done as much damage as good, since they've scratched the core support, scratched the fan shroud, gotten greasy finger prints all over the engine compartment and greasy footprints on the carpet. I asked them to clean it up and they forgot to do it several times. They can't even get the cowl seal that's fallen off several times to stay on properly!
I Went to Arbitration on 8/28/00 and it was a fiasco. The guy finished all my sentences and cut me off constantly. He's no ASE certified technician, in fact he's an architect but, he was able to tell me why the check engine light comes on and made it sound like it was no big deal, that all cars do it. The day of the hearing, I had to leave my truck for five days, bring it back in a second time for a few more days and now it's back in for a week. All since the hearing. And to top it all off the arbitrator spent all of one day to decide in Dodge's favor. What a novel idea! Get a "third independent party" paid for by the automobile manufacturers and let them decide your fate. And the arbitrator said it was not a safety issue, a value issue or a use issue.
Hard to believe that a truck that has left me stranded three times and had to be towed in is not a safety issue, a truck that has been in the shop eleven times for thirty-five days is not a use issue and it's not a value issue either. I guess everyone who has a vehicle in that many times knows it's worth more money on the resale market. I've tried all brands of gas and octane to no avail. Anybody got any idea besides burning it?
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference