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Store Bought Car Waxes (No Zaino Posts, Please)
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Ok, I am going to keep it civil now.
See what happens when you criticize the Church of Zaino? Heretic begone!!!
Dave
Dave
If anybody wants to discuss the merits of Zaino, there is another topic for that, so let's keep Zaino out of this one. Thanks!
I have never heard of this before. You just order the damn stuff and put your phone number on the form in case there is a problem with the order. All mail order businesses do this. If not your phone number, they ask you to give them your e-mail address or fax number or street address (duh!). And most even ask to supply your credit card number (wow! real scary!).
I have seen nothing sleazy about Z sales tactics. Just fill the form, write a check, put in the envelope and send it. You will get your stuff in a few days.
If you want to talk sleazy, do a little homework - watch a few infomercials about stuff like Prolong, DuraLube, and other stuff like that.
As for Gold Class, I have used it and liked it. It gave my car nice shine. It also gave my car white residue in all cracks and creases and on the black plastic trim. Some products like Gold Class or Zymol contain mild abrasives, which in my experience gave me swirlmarks. And you have to work hard to buff off these waxes after you wipe them on (this also leads to swirlmarks).
It is funny how people b* and moan about too much effort. Then someone comes along and gives them an easier product - just wipe it on and go watch TV or have sex with your wife. When done, come back and wipe it off. And all of a sudden, it is too hard to wait for the stuff to dry (duh! sure it is hard if you sit there and watch it dry).
kewldude, I guess you have found a quick way to maintain the shine on your car using the Liquid Wet. Well, I have a quick way to maintain my shine as well. After I had fun applying Z (a few layers), I don't do it anymore. The shine has been lasting pretty well without any more applications. Now I just wash it, dry it, spray some Z-6 (same idea as the Liquid Wet), wipe it off and I am done - 1 hour or so with washing and drying. I think I won't have to wax my car until the winter.
BTW, I once got e-mail from Sal and that was an explanation on how to use Z-6. No calls. No threats. I bet I can call him and ask a question. Can you call, say NuFinish and have a detailed conversation?
On my new car I am simultaneously testing several waxes on the hood to see if something can beat Nu Finish for durability that doesn't leave white residue on black trim. This is the only negative I experienced with Nu Finish. I am only one month into the test and Turtle Wax Emerald Paste and Clay Magic Wet Wax have stopped beading. Nu Finish and Meguiars Cleaner Wax are still beading. I had hoped the Emerald would do better because it is very easy to apply and doesn't leave white residue.
ruski - As to time, I want a product I can put on and buff off all within one session. I don't want my car tied up waiting for a chemical to bond to the paint before I can come back and continue the job. (Exactly what is it doing to the paint anyway? Long-term effects?)
My life is far too busy to make waxing a long project. Those that treat their car like a showcar have placed an entirely different priority on car waxing than I have. So let's only talk about the rest of us in this topic and leave the other topic for the enthusiasts.
Here is a question I would like some input on. Has anyone noticed a difference in how long a wax lasts on different types of paint? New versus old, clearcoat versus regular? I will be comparing how long the Meguiars test lasts on my new clearcoat paint compared to the Meguiars on my wife's 11 year old car, but some other experiences on this would be helpful.
As much as i wax my cars, durability rarely comes into play.
Rick
I concur with you regarding your post #212.
Kewldude,
I apologize for my remark. I will agree I have some anal retentive characteristics but I do not live my life around my car. "Z" is durable and long lasting thus giving me more time to enjoy more important things in life.
Vivona,
I really feel that some of the users of "Z" are applying the product on too thick. I have not had any problems with drying. By the time I finish a few sections the first is usually dry. So, I have noticed that the application and removal is far easier and quicker than ordinary wax products. BTW, I live in VA where temps and humidity tend to vary a lot.
Take it to the Z forum. I couldn't care less about Sal but truth be told, within ** seconds ** of a post I made asking that (former Z devotee), Chris Parrish not criticize shoman for not blindly supporting Z, Sal called me and ranted on for half an hour about how great Z is and the supposed chemistry involved and the evils of shoman. I happen to have a Ph.D. in Chem. and knew it was a load of BS. Again, I am not saying that Z is bad. I like it alot, I simply do not support the "Z or you're a moron" philosophy or the absolute closed-mindedness of the Z devotees. Sal has his shills, pseudonyms and business associates populating the Z forum and harassing those who don't buy in .. that's something I want no part of. P.S. When was the last time you got called on a Saturday by the manufacturer of a car care product moments after you suggested on a public bulletin board that it might be a good idea to keep an open mind about products? I found that to be somewhat strange ... I am sure you would find that Sal merely cares about the customer.
Also I think a piece of clay will do more wonders on deep seated dirt than any petroleum distillates.
dsomers, I hope you don't think that I am a character made up by Sal (heavy Russian accent and all).
#218 - leftover wax and carnauba content
Before waxing you can tape off these areas with masking tape just as you would if you were going to paint the area. I have also used Eagle One Wipe'N Shine with a toothbrush or toothpick to remove wax from around emblems, etc.
Surprisingly , the amount of carnauba does not always correlate with durability. Zymol (the real stuff not the blue liquid made by Turtle Wax and sold at Wal-Mart) contains a lot of carnauba (typically 40% or more) yet is recommended by the manufacturer to be applied every 4-6 weeks to maintain the shine.
#219 - deep down and dirty
All painted surfaces have defects whether seen or not. These pores and scratches can fill with dirt that can be very difficult to remove. I have washed cars twice then clayed twice and yet still got dirt on the applicator from using a polish or glaze. These products are designed to dissolve whatever remains behind. Optimizing the surface by removing dirt and filling in pores and scratches with either wax or sealant helps to improve light reflection(i.e., shine). This is why both Zaino and Eagle One (in their video) use a detailer prior to the waxing or sealing process.
I have not tried their WET waxes. I avoid any wax product that says it contains Teflon because it represents hype. They are a mix of carnauba and polymers not unlike Meguiar's Medallion premium wax series.
I like the Eagle One car wash as it is very concentrated (less expensive per use) and leaves a nice shine. I also like and use Sonax gloss car wash, Finish First car wash, and Zaino car wash. I find that the synthetic car washes do not streak the way that carnauba washes can and leave a nice glossy shine on both waxed and sealed surfaces.
If you are happy with Zaino then I would keep using it unless, like me, you like to experiment with what's out there. It's a relatively cheap hobby that always leaves a shiney car in its wake.
Clearcoat paint is just clear (unpigmented) paint over colored (pigmented) paint. Some people have posted that doing nothing to their finish yields the same or better as doing everything. I did nothing to a Toyota that sat in the sun for two years and it became dull and oxidized. (As I've said before, walk in a junkyard and see how many old cars still shine.)
To rejuvenate it I tried Finish First, Klasse, and Zaino. I found that the Klasse All-In-One and High Gloss Sealant did the best with the least effort. All gave a good shine after the oxidation was removed but the Klasse did better than the Finish First precleaner at removing oxidation. Zaino does not currently have a product to remove oxidation.
Klasse reduced the oxidation and put on a real shine. They are acrylics but I haven't seen any yellowing despite the car still sitting in the sun. I got them from the Herrington catalog but they can also be purchased from the Canova Brothers in California at www.smoothfinish.com.
Has anyone else tried the Klasse duo?
I never got around to trying it again. Anybody ever hear of this method, or try it with good results?
I had let the 12-year old car go 18 months and it started looking dull and dirty, even after washing. One good waxing with Nu Finish and it looked great. It always amazes me how Nu Finish can clean dirt from paint and restore the shine.
12 years is good enough for me to consider that Nu Finish does not harm the paint.
#227 - peanut butter
In the HP Book "Automotive Detailing - A Complete Car Care Guide For Auto Enthusiasts And Detailing Professionals" by Don Taylor, on page 119, question #29 "How do I remove wax on my rubber trim and bumpers?" A: First, try a simple mist-n-wipe product and wipe the surface down with a terry cloth towel. If the wax remains: "Microwave peanut butter, agitate with soft toothbrush - peanut butter dissolves the wax and the abrasiveness of peanut butter lifts stains off."
As to whether with lots of stains - Should you use extra crunchy? - I'll leave unanswered. Other products I have used to remove wax include the ones from earlier posts - Eagle One Wipe'N Shine and 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner.
#228 - Nu Finish
Nu Finish was one of the first widely marketed inexpensive polymer sealants. Like the others, it bonds to the surface and would not be expected to harm the paint. If you like the way your car looks after using it then I would stay with it.
As you know, the topic and title started out as a "what is the best" kind of shoot out! The topic has since changed. Since goals can and do vary, there are less reasons for the competition that sometimes comes across as flaming.
Yes the Zaino product has good protection against UV.
Rick
No problem.
You should care for the new finishes just like any other finish. Wash, polish (with mild abrasives) lightly once in a while to keep the shine, and protect with a good wax. While clearcoat is thin, it won't wear out in a normal cars lifetime if treated correctly, even if you use a very mild polish regularly to keep the shine at new levels. Pro detailers can use mild polishes every week for decades on cars and never wear through the paint. The key is to use the right product and light pressure with the correct applicator. (and never let anyone near your car with a high speed buffer!)
I have never found a wax/polish product that can completely cover fine scratches and haze in paint (or clearcoat) no matter what it says or how many coats or layers you put on. To get a good shine and have it last the longest, you need to start with shiny paint. Start with haze/scratches and they will show through the wax sooner rather than later.
Carnauba waxes have worked the best for me. My favorite is Collinite. Better than One Grand, Meguiars, and not as expensive as Zymol. I have had good luck with Gold Class paste, which is NOT abrasive BTW, so you still need to polish for the best finish.
About rail or road dust, it can get in new or old cars, and if you happen to wax over it, you can still get it out with clay. No need to worry that you might have ruined your finish if you didn't clay right after the contamination happened. Clay is great stuff, it doesn't work miracles though, and does nothing for shine, just contamination in and on the paint.
Don M.
Adam
I have used both, and the Collinite gives me a better shine, goes on easier and lasts longer. When I started my business, I could have picked any brand to carry, but chose the one that had worked for me for years, and continues to beat the newest out there (including the various "Z" brands).
Don M.
But now my question is, which one are you talking about? There appears to be two, a cheaper one, and a more expensive one, and no way to tell what's what.
Have you ever used any of the other Collinite products? Some of the descriptions look interesting.
Thanks for the info.
I also sell the Sapphire Liquid Detergent Proof wax no SS126 for those that like a liquid wax, but the No 915 Marque d'Elegance carnauba is what I am talking about that I have used for years. It also seems to be VERY resistent to detergents. I always wash my cars/trucks with a mild mix of Ivory Detergent and water. Never stripped any wax (even non-Collinite) in decades of use and never harmed a finish. What it DOES is get your car cleaner and leave the finish feeling better than any "car wash" product I have tried. I get Ivory at my grocery store!
I have not tried any of the other Collinite products. I am sure they are great, but why mess with success! The 915 works better than anything I have ever used and is their top product. I personally prefer a paste wax. One can does your car dozens of times.
Don M.
At the end of one month only the Meguiars and Nu Finish continued to bead. At the end of two months only Nu Finish beaded.
The test is over and the results are in, Nu Finish lasted longest so I now have waxed the whole car with it.
The secondary part of the test was to see if the same wax lasted longer on a different car. In the past my wife and I would get essentially the same life out of a wax job. Both our cars were white Galants. I now have a silver Diamante clearcoat. She still has the Galant. Meguairs is still going strong after four months on her car, but quit at two months on mine. The number of miles, exposure and amount of washing was about the same. So it appears that the color, type, and even age of a paint can affect how long a wax job lasts. It is probably consistent between waxes, so I would expect Nu Finish to last longer than Meguiars on her car, but if I can get 6 months on her car with Meguiars, I might stay with it since it does gloss a bit better than Nu Finish.
On my car, I'll stay with Nu Finish because so far, nothing else has made it to two months. And I don't like to wax any more often than every six months at best. A year would be nice.
Thanks.
It just happens that an outcome of having a coat of protection (wax, polymer, etc.) on your paint is that it causes water to bead on the surface. So rather than beading being a goal, it is an indicator that the protectant coating is still there. When water stops beading, it tells you it is time to wax again.
Beading is an indication that some form of wax or polish protection is on the paint. It is as a practical matter, a mixed blessing. As you know, wax i.e. carnuba wax has a melting point/temperature. If after a rain, the sun comes and shines on your beaded protected surface, the sun now shines on many mini magnifying glasses, with subsequent wax degradation. It also acts to cook the water, which then evaporates leaving the particles borne by the water and water spots.
Rick