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If the sensor isn't replaced, will it kill the engine? Can it run the way it is for now?
Thanks
How do you know there is a bad crankshaft position sensor? Could be a number of things. THe DPFE sensor is an extended warranty item, at least on Duratech versions as the 2000 Taurus with Duratech is what I have.
All engines will be a little sluggish at startup until warmed up. Additionally all Tauri engines will rev at higher rpm-about 1000-1200 until warmed up to speed the warmup cycle and improve driveability when the engine is cold.
I would get a diagnosis done before just swapping parts. There may be nothing wrong at all, unless it behaves different than in the past.
Dealer probably just as soon deny connection. Talked to a Ford manager the other day. They are in money saving mode as some recent TSB's say to do nothing unless the customer complaint is specifically related. And how many customers find out about the TSB?
I ran my OBD II scan today and it came up with erorr code
155 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
Does anyone know what this means?
Thanks, Dave
Does anyone know if this tranny should achieve TCC lock when it is in D range instead of OD?
Most were never aware and got billed anyway.
Not automotive, but opinion.
There are many at different levels whose opinion would be that Katrina was a God send. Good for the economy because of the billions of dollars pumped into the economy. I would call it waste.
And much the same with automotive and planned obsolescence. Not that they couldn't economically make every vehicle last 500K, they don't want to.
I have a 2001 SES almost 104,000 miles. Great car! Tonight, however, my dome light wouldn't shut off when I shut the door, so it took a few shuts for it to shut off. Also, when I got out of the car while car was running and get back in, it would stay on until I got moving (which was normal). When I got off work tonight, it started working just fine!
So, what could it be and what can fix it in the future?
THANKS!
- Alex
I have a 2002 Taurus with 76k that is all of a sudden acting up.
First, the heat/air/ac will not work at all in any position of the vent or fan speed. This just started to happen two days ago and has not worked since.
Secondly, the car will roll backwards in the middle of the night in my driveway down the minor hill of said driveway.
Third, the belt is very squeaky and will not stop squeaking at any speed, and it's pissing me off.
Fourth, when I go over any bumps my front end sounds realllly loose and it seems like things are going to fall off.
Last, the ABS seems to go off at any minor bump in the road when I am using the brakes. I have never noticed this until now.
My 99 Jeep Cherokee with 150k on the clock has not had one thing wrong with it, and this Taurus I've babied and taken care of very well and it seems like within the past three days it's crapping itself. I bought both the Cherokee and Taurus new (Yes, I drive a ton!) and have changed fluids at the recomended frequency. Any help!!??
Thanks
Friend of mine has a 2002 Sable LS Premium w/24V. When we test drove it before she bought it, it was GREAT! Now, it is stalling at lower speeds and idling is rough and jerky according to her. The car fires right back up.
There is NO check engine light on.
Car has 58,000 miles, any ideas?
Ford is TAKING CARE AT NO COST! They even have multiple technicians on it.
Thanks!
- Alex
Any help or advice would be appreciated.
>sounds realllly loose and it seems like things are
>going to fall off.
May be the sway bar links. See earlier threads on this.
First, my car occasionally experiences rough idle at a full stop after a long drive on the freeway or even on city streets.
Secondly, after driving around for awhile letting the motor heat up to regular op temp and then coming to a full stop, then trying to accelerate at a green light, my car tends to misfire as if i am loosing power. My plugs are fresh i just changed them. What can cause this mysterious misfire/rough idle situation? can the two be related problems?
Thirdly, my speedo just went out. What can cause my speedometer to stop working and ow can I fix the problem?
And lastly my motor has a hard time heating to reg op temperature. could it mean a faulty thermostat?
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Car accelerates perfectly fine with no hesitiation.
Any ideas on what is causing this, as far as fuel pump going bad, fuel injector problems, 02 sensors???
I ahaave 150K miles and have replaced all 6 coils, spark plugs, fuel pressure regulator a year ago.
Thanks.
so i guess the only other thing i need to figure out now is my hesitation/miss fire problem..like i said, if im at a full stop after driving for awhile and give the car heavy gas initially after the full stop, the car seems to lagg in the beginning..it lasts for only the first few seconds or so but funny thing is if i back off the throttle a little bit then gradually give the car more throttle again, the car avoids its self from hesitating..maybe someone might know what may be causing this problem?
Very few cars have any kind of greaseable fittings...a few cars and trucks might have greaseable u-joints. Sometimes replacement suspension parts have greaseable fittings built it.
The neighbor replaced the ignition switch itself in an effort to fix thi, with a Brand X from the parts store. He later determined that there is "...something wrong with the metal rod and a plastic piece, bit the switch itself is ok...". This means nothing to me (yet). Does it mean anything to you?!
My question is, what's the fix?! Is the part likely replaceable, or would it be easier just to replace the steering column (not the airbag/steering wheel - I presume it's detachable from the column?).
Any replies can be sent to pferris AT cox DOT net. All hints & tips are much appreciated!!!
Thanks all!
--Pete
I have a 2001 SES and I just wanted to let you all know that if you are looking for a GREAT set of tires for this car, go for the Bridgestone Turanza LS-T. They are smooth, reasonably quiet, have AWESOME wet traction and wet braking, have nice straight-line stability, and handle well. They have an 80,000 mile rating. Even though they are a T-rated tire, I find they handle as well as previous H-rated performance tires.
If you go to Firestone during their "BUY 3, GET THE 4TH FREE" sale, you can get them for $500 with tax, lifetime balancing, lifetime rotation, lifetime repairs, and free tire replacement program.
The tires are also rated 2nd in their class (Standard Touring All-Season) according to Tirerack.com, only being below the BF Goodrich Traction T/A T.
Since I had lifetime alignment already at Firestone, these were a GREAT deal and I got them for $490 OTD and a FREE XM Satellite Radio Tuner for the car ($79 value!).
Let the tires break in 1000 miles and really feel them shine. They are much better than the Wal-Mart tires.
- Alex
P.S. If any of you experience a fuel cap light followed by a check engine light pertaining to fuel, use BP/Amoco 89 gas, and you will not have that problem - and cleaner burn.
P.P.S. My car has almost 109,000 miles and runs like new!
Thanks.
Larry
Thanks
After I switch from Drive to overdrive or vica versa, after awhile, the car will basically die with the service engine soon light as well as the oil, brakes, and gas light coming up. My car feels like it is breaking slowly and my steering wheel becomes locked
what causes this?
My oil temp was in the middle and i had around half a tank of gas left
Steve
National chain body shop wanted $1800 to fix my car's front end damage, Latino's Body Shop (yes, that is its name) did it for $850.
Rear-ended Taurus had estimated $2000 in damage, same shop charged $400 plus painted front bumper for an extra $150!
The engine is a 3.0L V6 Duratec DOHC 24 V and it does have a lot of getup and go. I thought the VIN would specify but it does not. The information sheet just says "Automatic 4 speed transmission"
I have been told the AX4N is a better transmissioin, but do not really know.
I will appreciate your assistance.
Silentwill