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Called Jiffy Lube and they do it for $59.99, but when I questioned if it is the same for all cars she didn't know. A guy came on and did say that some Tauruses they don't/can't do and that I should stop in and they can tell me.
Looking like I may as well use a "real" shop. The guy I bought the car from had claimed it was done about 12,000 miles ago, less than 2 years anyhow. Yet, Ford says it looks very old. Maybe the guy was confused and he never did it because it was too hard? He would have done it himself...he did his oil and his trans fluid changes himself.
OH MY GOSH! I just called a "real" shop, they want $50-60 and FORD says it's $70. What is Pep BOys thinking? I may do Ford as my son can have an appt and wait. The other shop is a leave it in the morning shop, and I don't know if I trust Jiffy Lube.
I was going to "let it ride" for a bit as it is a $700 repair. The Parts guy today made a comment that it could just blow and we'd lose the steering. I hadn't thought that was a likely scenario. I thought it would get worse first, and that I'd notice it and act on it.
I am waiting because we've only had it 3 months and I fear there could be mechanical problems (no real reason to think that, except age and a couple stalls that are hopefully just the IAC). I am just leery of dumping that much money into it, yet we just bought it, so getting rid of it is not an option anyhow.
Any comments on how long I should or shouldn't wait? Afraid to let my hubby know about the cost since it's my son's car.
You haven't had too good of luck with that car. stalling, no start, and power steering issues - Oh My.
Per the power steering rack, if it blows you will lose power steering but not steering. The car could be steered but it will be much much harder to turn the steering wheel. To let you know what you are in for try turning the steering wheel when the motor is not running with the key in the on position. It will be quite a battle but the car can be steered. When the car is moving it will be much easier to steer. If after that experiment you think you could handle a power steering failure then I would say to wait. If the steering is too much without power then you'd better get it fixed.
My Sable has the other engine (the Vulcan v-6). I have changed the fuel filter twice and it wasn't too tough. You need to get the passenger side of the car up in the air, you take off two plastic clips and the fuel line hoses then just slide off of the fuel filter. A wrench takes off a bolt holding the fuel filter in place. Putting the new one in is just the reverse of removing the old one. Make sure that you have the fuel filter installed with the arrow pointing forward (towards the engine). Also the plastic clips are flimsey and I have broken them. The dealer gets way too much for that little piece of plastic so try not to break it.
The no-start you must be remembering was back when I thought I messed up the alternator by putting the battery in wrong. That one was on me, not the car. It turned out to be a fuse!
It has stalled on 2 nights, but we are hoping that the new idle air control valve will prevent that from happening again.
The steering is an issue I've known about for months, and have been watching. My son drives it and he is much stronger than I am, so he'd be better at turning it than I would probably be if it went out. I am trying to determine the likelihood of it actually failing without first developing a much worse leak.
I don't climb under cars...so I'll leave the filter to the pros...plus, I'd likely break those plastic clips! Today's concern is mainly whether to let the steering ride for a bit longer.
Thanks for responding!
I have Mercury sable 2002 3.0 liter engine 12 valve.32000 miles,I am hearing noise where the camshaft and valves,is like a old engine belt doing that but I replace with new one and sound coming top of the engine.I had it 2001 mercury sable had a same proplem dealer replace all the valves cost to 980.dollar.I dont want to pay 980 dollar again,if there is any recall for this issue,to live same proplem two diffrent mercury it must be defect of this cars. or if any one lived same proplem and how you resolved.sorry for my bad english and thank you...
One or two questions for you , if you don't mind. When you say blowback, what do you mean? Are you talking about how there is evidence under the car (I think under my trans pan) that fluid has leaked, or something else?
Also, what happened when yours went? Were you driving? How bad was it?
I have the appt scheduled for next week. I decided I will rest easier when he is out, knowing there is one less thing that could go wrong. Since he is 17 and popular with the girls and is always out, I have a LOT to worry about with him!
Thanks
The EGR is on at all times with an EGR circuit fault code. Before that it had a P0401 code, so I replaced the DPFE and cleared the code. it went away. This I checked the vaacum control valve it appears to function correctly.
Also this car has misfire code P0301 (number 1 spark) on several times. I compression tested the engine, replaced the wires, and so on. The only thing I haven't checked is the fuel injector(s)( except specs are right and it clicks) for that cylinder? Cylinder show no problem which is shared on the coil with number one.
The engine appears mechanically sound, good vaacum reading and compression, so I'm starting suspect the PCM is causing the weirdness.
Anybody ever had this happen to a sable, or taurus?
As for your hood not wanting to pop, mine does the same thing. Someone turned in front of me, and evidentally, the body shop that fixed it did not do something right. When it does happen, I pull the lever inside the car several times to be sure it is unlatched on the underside, then I ease my fingers between the front edge of the hood and the front bumper area.
During this time mileage has been terrible at 16 MPG city and 22 MPG highway. I normally get 30-32 MPG on the highway depending on how fast I drive. I have been buying the same 87-octane gas I have bought for years at Marathon.
Fuel filter and air filter were just replaced as they were overdue. I replaced water pump several weeks ago and it is working as it should. The only trouble code from the computer is 430 which it has been kicking out regularly for a year now so I don't think that is the problem.
Plugged fuel injectors on my 1997 sable appear to be causing the misfire on plug 1. The plug looks like a misfire/high speed glazed plug.
The injector and/or O-ring seal, or upper and lower manifold could be leaking causing a misfire.
Do a vacuum test and compression first. Min compression is 100psi no lower and the highest/lowest should be within 10psi difference. Mine reads 120, 122, 124, 123, 120, 121psi. on my engine.
Then use a vacuum gauge(about$20) to see if your engine holds steady engine running vacuum on 17 to 21 inches with no erratic/swinging needle movements(Mine is 18)..... These tests confirm a mechanically sound engine; then check plugs, wire, coil, injectors, and seals.
Good Luck
Hope this helps
I live on the oregon coast and I was taking a nice drive to salem to visit friends and family. 35 miles out of town I was going up a hill when all of a sudden the engine made a clanking sound and the engine started smoking real bad I immediatly pulled over and put the car into park and shut off the engine. I poped the hood where smoke was billowing out of it. after the car was done smoking I looked under the hood and noticed oil residue. I then checked underneath of the car and noticed that it dumped a [non-permissible content removed] load of oil. I tried to turn the car over but all i get is a click sounf which maybe due to the automatic fuel shut off. I dont want to turn it back on because I'm worried about the engine seizeing up. So what I need to know is how do i manually crank the engine to tell if the engine is already seized and any other ideas of what it maybe.
other problems are
1. the check engine light is always on
2. when the car is in overdrive the O/D light is always flashing.
3. I hate this car
It's a 2001 SEL w/mach audio.
My son has no idea how the kid did it. He just knows the kid also did it in his own car (different kind).
Is there anything I can check to make sure it is not wired to somewhere it definitely should NOT be?
I am scared he will fry some circuit or something, or drain his battery.
The alternator is a toughie to repair/replace in his engine (DOHC) because it is buried under there. Can he damage that by wiring in these lights improperly???
Please tell me if there is somewhere I should check to be sure it is not wired to certain things, or any advice you can give me would be great. Thanks!
A week after, I saw another puddle in the road. I freaked. Mt friend thought the pan gasket was wet. I worried the trans had a worse leak than just the pan. I worried the puddles weren't the steering and were the trans all along. (though I knew steering did have a leak for sure)
Trans place found only a tiny dipstick tube leak. Said the dealer must have spilled steering fluid (same stuff as trans)
onto the frame where it sat until it felt like spilling out a week later. He did find fluid evidnece there
"Short block, sable, taurus - 2.5l - 2.5L 86-90 $1,881.48" is on Team Ford Parts Online. They even list a V6, "Short block, sable, taurus, 3.0l - 3.0l, 3.8l - 3.0L, 3.8L 86-89 $2,178.38" I suspect this V6 would require some mods to fit, but as you can see the Taurus/Sable 4cyl. is 86-90, so those are the years. "Short Block" you need to look the meaning of that, but it's basically a complete engine block without a head and manifolds.
In the 90's it would need to be computer matched with the unless you had the whole car, the 80's were different computer systems.
You may be able to use any Ford 2.5 engine. Call a reputable Junk yard. The have used parts Interchange manuals that can tell you what you can and can't put under hood, or what has to be changed to fit a different engine.
This depends on where that switch is, but you may be able to fix this if the switch is in latching mechanism in the door by spraying inside the door latches with WD40 and closing them a few times. That works on the one Ford/Mercury put in the door latch unless something is :sick:
Mark.
James
:sick:
You need professional help so you don't destroy your car.
Mark
\
It looks like both are staying on even with the ignition off.
How much work and expense do you think it would take to have either the dealer or a stereo shop tie one (and only one of the two) to the ignition being on or off?
:confuse:
This is for taurus and mercury. Also I would of I were you google your car and see the normal problems that you have with your car. That is what I did with mine...it did help out a lot. Good luck and I hope you figure out the problem.
Love the car so far. This thing is perhaps the best I've ever owned. Quiet as a church on the road.