Edmunds Members - Cars and Conversations (Archived)

Michaell · February 2016

Taken last March.

Michaell · February 2016

Mr_Shiftright said:
Don't mess with dealers. Let Rick help you if he can. He knows everybody down there. I haven't seen the truck, so it's hard to say much about the value, but it'll fall in the $5K--$15K range I would imagine, unless it is something spectacular. Given that siblings are involved, it's always best to have an appraiser set a fair market value.

Michaell said:

Michaell said:

oldfarmer50 said:

Michaell said:
I've learned that my dad wants my sister and I to sell his 1970 Chevy C-10 pickup truck, and give the money to his four grandsons.

@Mr_Shiftright has given me the name of an appraiser in SoCal, so I'm hoping this person can look at the truck, give us a valuation, and help us sell it. Ideally, to someone who will maintain it like my dad did for the last 46 years.
Drive it down to Dallas and see what the Fast & Loud guys will give you for it.

Then wait until they take it to auction and buy it back for less than they put into it.
Not sure I'd want to drive that truck 1000+ miles from SoCal to Dallas with no A/C and no cruise.

But, jeez, could reach out to them and see what they say (!).
Turns out the Gas Monkey Garage has instructions on how to submit a vehicle for consideration. Just sent them an email, picture included.

Be curious if I hear back from them.

Left him a message; no return call yet. I'll try again.

We're hoping for $10K .. gives each of the grandsons $2500 for a future car.

stickguy · February 2016

Looks nice, so should be doable. Though I hear the real action is in short beds.

explorerx4 · February 2016

That unhappy former Tesla customer comes from a pretty storied family.
I used to work for his uncle.

Mr_Shiftright · February 2016

Hard to say without seeing it. Looks like some patchwork on the rocker panel and front fender, wheels need repainting, maybe a rust bubble under right rear panel ?? Price will depend on interior and engine bay condition as well. You can buy a pretty decent looking C10 for around $10K-$12K.

Michaell said:

Mr_Shiftright said:
Don't mess with dealers. Let Rick help you if he can. He knows everybody down there. I haven't seen the truck, so it's hard to say much about the value, but it'll fall in the $5K--$15K range I would imagine, unless it is something spectacular. Given that siblings are involved, it's always best to have an appraiser set a fair market value.

Michaell said:

Michaell said:

oldfarmer50 said:

Michaell said:
I've learned that my dad wants my sister and I to sell his 1970 Chevy C-10 pickup truck, and give the money to his four grandsons.

@Mr_Shiftright has given me the name of an appraiser in SoCal, so I'm hoping this person can look at the truck, give us a valuation, and help us sell it. Ideally, to someone who will maintain it like my dad did for the last 46 years.
Drive it down to Dallas and see what the Fast & Loud guys will give you for it.

Then wait until they take it to auction and buy it back for less than they put into it.
Not sure I'd want to drive that truck 1000+ miles from SoCal to Dallas with no A/C and no cruise.

But, jeez, could reach out to them and see what they say (!).
Turns out the Gas Monkey Garage has instructions on how to submit a vehicle for consideration. Just sent them an email, picture included.

Be curious if I hear back from them.

Left him a message; no return call yet. I'll try again.

We're hoping for $10K .. gives each of the grandsons $2500 for a future car.

Michaell · February 2016

Mr_Shiftright said:
Hard to say without seeing it. Looks like some patchwork on the rocker panel and front fender, wheels need repainting, maybe a rust bubble under right rear panel ?? Price will depend on interior and engine bay condition as well. You can buy a pretty decent looking C10 for around $10K-$12K.

Michaell said:

Mr_Shiftright said:
Don't mess with dealers. Let Rick help you if he can. He knows everybody down there. I haven't seen the truck, so it's hard to say much about the value, but it'll fall in the $5K--$15K range I would imagine, unless it is something spectacular. Given that siblings are involved, it's always best to have an appraiser set a fair market value.

Michaell said:

Michaell said:

oldfarmer50 said:

Michaell said:
I've learned that my dad wants my sister and I to sell his 1970 Chevy C-10 pickup truck, and give the money to his four grandsons.

@Mr_Shiftright has given me the name of an appraiser in SoCal, so I'm hoping this person can look at the truck, give us a valuation, and help us sell it. Ideally, to someone who will maintain it like my dad did for the last 46 years.
Drive it down to Dallas and see what the Fast & Loud guys will give you for it.

Then wait until they take it to auction and buy it back for less than they put into it.
Not sure I'd want to drive that truck 1000+ miles from SoCal to Dallas with no A/C and no cruise.

But, jeez, could reach out to them and see what they say (!).
Turns out the Gas Monkey Garage has instructions on how to submit a vehicle for consideration. Just sent them an email, picture included.

Be curious if I hear back from them.

Left him a message; no return call yet. I'll try again.

We're hoping for $10K .. gives each of the grandsons $2500 for a future car.

Yeah, not perfect. The hazards of living so close to the ocean. Was professionally repainted a number of years ago, but lives outside. I'll get more pictures when I'm there next week.

Mr_Shiftright · February 2016

You know, if you have a limited time out there, and if the truck has some rough edges, and if a real person with real money shows up--think twice before turning down a decent offer.

The 70s trucks haven't quite caught on yet like the 50s and 60s rigs--but they will in time. Most of them are modded rather than authentically restored at this point in time.

cdnpinhead · February 2016

nyccarguy said:
Is Accura the Canadian way of spelling Acura?

It's called attention to detail. Those who can't, don't, but at least they often make fun of those who do.

henryn · February 2016

explorerx4 said:
Looking forward to taking the F-150 on 120 mile or so round trip tomorrow. Some more 'get acquainted' time.

My 2015 F150 is now up to 1,400 miles. Two weeks ago, I did a 64 mile round trip, and got 25.1 mpg. I am amazed and astounded, this is truly mind boggling for a full size half ton crew cab pickup.

stever · February 2016

driver100 said:
I didn't know there were DIY kits.....how do you know how strong they make it.

It's just glue you squeeze inside. Hard to mess up - you aren't putting much pressure on the glass. The idea is to keep the chip from spreading into a crack - a side benefit is that it often makes the chip hard to see. If nothing else it'll help keep any water from seeping in.

Here's a blurb from Popular Mechanics.

[Deleted User] · February 2016

I started investigating the Audi paint by trying a couple of different products on a single spot with the goal to understand what will be need to make the paint spectacular. So, if you recall, here's that nice, shiny paint, right?

Well, maybe not so nice. Here's what it really looks like in a different light and at a different angle (you're looking at the trunk lid):

There's some work to do here, and it requires a higher level of compounding than I've done with my dual action polisher and products in the past, so I experimented a bit.

[Deleted User] · February 2016

I went with a semi-aggressive dual action foam pad and semi-aggressive compounding product and came up with this:

Better, but not perfect. The hazing you see is from the compound creating fine buffing marks, which are removed in the next step with a finer polish. Here's what it looked like after the second stage polish:

Better still, but what you can't see in the picture that my eyes could detect are fine scratches still visible. My testing has told me I need to go a bit more aggressive in the first stage. I'll be ordering a more aggressive foam pad and compound product this week and will plan to do this in three stages. First stage will be the aggressive pad and compound product, followed by a semi-aggressive pad and polish, and then finally a finishing pad and polish product. Once that's done, then I'll follow up with two coats of resin paint coating to protect the finish from swirls, UV, and scratches in the future. And then it will truly shine. I officially have a project on my hands

nyccarguy · February 2016

@tyguy - I applaud you! Did you register your punch over on CCBA? I get confused about who hangs out in both boards.

driver100 · February 2016

stever said:

driver100 said:
I didn't know there were DIY kits.....how do you know how strong they make it.
It's just glue you squeeze inside. Hard to mess up - you aren't putting much pressure on the glass. The idea is to keep the chip from spreading into a crack - a side benefit is that it often makes the chip hard to see. If nothing else it'll help keep any water from seeping in.

Here's a blurb from Popular Mechanics.

Thanks stever, that article was interesting and informative. They said some insurance policies won't cover a chipped windshield. The big problem seems to be that moisure can get inside and could blurr your vision, and this glue stuff can add strength so the chip won't branch out. I suppose it may add some strength so if another stone ends up near by it could add to the cracking.

It says this stuff costs about $10, and you actually do it with a suction to get out any air etc., and they liked the results. I think it is worth a try...they said a kit should be about $10. Probably better to wait until I get so many I can't see out of the window or until trade-in time.

stever · February 2016

If you go that route, you may want to put some tape over the chips - that's supposed to be the kludge to keep the water out until you get around to gluing it. Some Super Glue would probably do just as well if it's not in a distracting spot.

Back in the day, my car insurance would pay to have the mobile service come out and fix them free. After watching a couple get done I decided it would be an okay diy project and one that's hard to make worse. Most kits are pushing $20 but they are $12 at Harbor Freight. Seen 'em at Walmart too.

imidazol97 · February 2016

@driver100 Did you say there was a hairline crack as a part of the chip?

When the guys have repaired chips for my windshield, I believe they used a drill to open
up the hole where the shattered glass is. I believe one guy said the drilling relieves the
pressure in the glass helping prevent it from cracking further due to the pressures.

How deep is the chip? I had the guy come the last time and he said it was NOT deep
enough that he could do anything to it. It did not go through the top layer of the
glass.

The description of the kits in the magazine doesn't say anything about drilling the glass.

stever · February 2016

@imidazol97, yeah, I've done that too and the theory is sound. The issue is that your drilling may make any crack worse. It's kind of dicey trying to drill down to where the top layer meets the laminate material. Usually I look at the chip with a magnifying glass and probe it with a dental probe. I do the shallow surface cracks because usually they disappear with the glue.

I tried "fixing" a six inch long crack a few months back as described on a YouTube but had no success with that. I drilled that one but wound up missing one end of the crack. That dent filled nicely, lol.

oldfarmer50 · February 2016

Michaell said:

Michaell said:

oldfarmer50 said:

Michaell said:
I've learned that my dad wants my sister and I to sell his 1970 Chevy C-10 pickup truck, and give the money to his four grandsons.

@Mr_Shiftright has given me the name of an appraiser in SoCal, so I'm hoping this person can look at the truck, give us a valuation, and help us sell it. Ideally, to someone who will maintain it like my dad did for the last 46 years.
Drive it down to Dallas and see what the Fast & Loud guys will give you for it.

Then wait until they take it to auction and buy it back for less than they put into it.
Not sure I'd want to drive that truck 1000+ miles from SoCal to Dallas with no A/C and no cruise.

But, jeez, could reach out to them and see what they say (!).
Turns out the Gas Monkey Garage has instructions on how to submit a vehicle for consideration. Just sent them an email, picture included.

Be curious if I hear back from them.

Now that would be something if your dad's truck was featured on a national TV show. I'd watch that episode for sure. Be a heck of a tribute to remember him by.

oldfarmer50 · February 2016

Michaell said:

Taken last March.

That's in great shape for a 46 yo truck. I'd love to own it but could never afford what our experts say it's worth.

As an aside, how come Honda stopped all sales of Civics?

oldfarmer50 · February 2016

henryn said:

explorerx4 said:
Looking forward to taking the F-150 on 120 mile or so round trip tomorrow. Some more 'get acquainted' time.
My 2015 F150 is now up to 1,400 miles. Two weeks ago, I did a 64 mile round trip, and got 25.1 mpg. I am amazed and astounded, this is truly mind boggling for a full size half ton crew cab pickup.

I'm impressed with my Ford's milage as well. Amazing what auto makers are able to accomplish these days.

Speaking of which, it rained all day today and washed the salt off the roads. Baby may come out to play tomorrow.

imidazol97 · February 2016

oldfarmer50 said:
As an aside, how come Honda stopped all sales of Civics?

Missing or improperly placed piston pin snap rings may cause damage to the engine.

http://blog.caranddriver.com/honda-orders-stop-sale-on-2016-civic-official-recall-pending/

[Deleted User] · February 2016

nyccarguy said:
@tyguy - I applaud you! Did you register your punch over on CCBA? I get confused about who hangs out in both boards.

Thanks Bradd! Actually, I've never posted on CCBA. I figured I'd be laughed out of the place when I didn't replace my car on an annual basis

Michaell · February 2016

imidazol97 said:

oldfarmer50 said:
As an aside, how come Honda stopped all sales of Civics?
Missing or improperly placed piston pin snap rings may cause damage to the engine.

http://blog.caranddriver.com/honda-orders-stop-sale-on-2016-civic-official-recall-pending/

And, it's not all Civics - just those with the 2.0L engine. I don't believe the 1.5T's are affected by this.

stickguy · February 2016

big Oops by Honda there.

Michaell · February 2016

oldfarmer50 said:

Michaell said:

Taken last March.
That's in great shape for a 46 yo truck. I'd love to own it but could never afford what our experts say it's worth.

It's worth exactly what someone is willing to pay for it. While shifty sez $5-15K, he's going on one picture alone. I'm hoping his friend in LA will be able to eyeball it and put a better (read: more accurate) value on it and help get it sold.

I may also reach out to one of my dad's friends in town and have him get the word out - quietly - that it's for sale. I am not going the CL route with this one.

I looked at Hemmings, and most of those trucks have been modded to one extent or another and have insane price tags on them - $15K up to $35K. Most of them are stepsides.

I always thought it would be cool to get Chip and the "Overhaulin'" folks in on this one, given that the show is based in LA.

This has always been a work truck for my dad. Hauled lumber and tools in it all the time, and pulled a bass boat for many years. Probably gets driven a few hundred miles a year now, if that.

I'll take 'er for a spin next week, if only for old times sake. When I was younger, I used it for a time-speed-distance rally. A rhinoceros amongst gazelles.

berri · February 2016

Don't assume insurance won't cover a windshield chip. Some policies will cover it with no deductible. Also, some auto glass places don't charge all that much to fix a chip and may even have a discount based on your insurance company or other affiliations.

stickguy · February 2016

too late on Overhaulin, since they shut that show down. But could have made a case for him it sounds a few years back.

Mr_Shiftright · February 2016

If nobody in L.A. can help you and you're feeling some pressure, you can always send me some photos (I'll specify what) and answer some questions for me and I bet I can come up with a very accurate number for you.

Michaell · February 2016

Mr_Shiftright said:

If nobody in L.A. can help you and you're feeling some pressure, you can always send me some photos (I'll specify what) and answer some questions for me and I bet I can come up with a very accurate number for you.

Let me know what kind of pictures you want – I can get my son to take them since he lives in town

oldfarmer50 · February 2016

I just happened to be looking at the local CL and found these:

1965 82,000 miles, $8500

And this fixer-upper. 1968 $3200

Michaell's looks better than either.

Mr_Shiftright · February 2016

Usually 6 to 8 shots, typically of:

Photo taken from front of truck at an angle (not head on)

Ditto the rear

Photo of the bed

Photo of engine compartment

Photo underneath of front suspension, oil pan, etc

Photo underneath from the rear, showing gas tank, rear shocks, rear diff and some of the floor pan

Then a checklist using the rating system Poor to Excellent, with a + or - if the grade is a tweener:

“poor” or P-- means wrecked, unusable, definitely needs restoration
“fair” or F -- means serviceable, intact, but noticeably worn
“good” or G-- means some wear and tear but quite decent--like a 5-7 year old used car.
“very good” or VG-- means very sharp and clean but not perfect in a close inspection.
“excellent” or EXC--means "like new" in every respect. Show quality!

Body:
Paint:
Exterior Chrome Trim:
Bumpers:
Glass:
Gasket Window Seals/ Door Seals:
Tires:
Carpeting:
Seats:
Door Panels:
Instrument Panel & Dash:
Headliner:
Interior Metal Trim:
Engine (running and appearance)
Driveability: (can the truck easily go 100 miles?)

Title: Clean or Salvage?

driver100 · February 2016

imidazol97 said:
@driver100 Did you say there was a hairline crack as a part of the chip?

When the guys have repaired chips for my windshield, I believe they used a drill to open
up the hole where the shattered glass is. I believe one guy said the drilling relieves the
pressure in the glass helping prevent it from cracking further due to the pressures.

How deep is the chip? I had the guy come the last time and he said it was NOT deep
enough that he could do anything to it. It did not go through the top layer of the
glass.

The description of the kits in the magazine doesn't say anything about drilling the glass.

Well, it is probably as minor a chip as possible. It seems to definitely be a tiny chip, not too deep, maybe 1/32nd inch in and kind of powdery looking in the center where the chip is. Seems to be a short fine hairline crack or two coming from it. My guess is there is still glass between the chip spot and the laminate.

I for sure don't want to drill it. I don't think plugging it could do any more damage.

driver100 · February 2016

berri said:
Don't assume insurance won't cover a windshield chip. Some policies will cover it with no deductible. Also, some auto glass places don't charge all that much to fix a chip and may even have a discount based on your insurance company or other affiliations.

Good info berri....no harm in asking (except maybe a rate increase

)

stickguy · February 2016

no way a DIY kit would tell you to drill. Too much liability.

I had a rock hole once, and decided to let the glass guys fill it. Took one look, and knew I couldn't live with it. had them back out to replace the glass, which worked out fine. Thankfully they did it with a credit for the patch job, so didn't cost me extra.

berri · February 2016

Call a glass repair place or two first. It may be relatively inexpensive to do it without your insurance company involved. Windshields are an integral structural component of your vehicle and take more stress while the car is moving than you might think. It will get worse, almost guaranteed.

imidazol97 · February 2016

driver100 said:

@driver100 Did you say there was a hairline crack as a part of the chip? When the guys have repaired chips for my windshield, I believe they used a drill to open up the hole where the shattered glass is. I believe one guy said the drilling relieves the pressure in the glass helping prevent it from cracking further due to the pressures. How deep is the chip? I had the guy come the last time and he said it was NOT deep enough that he could do anything to it. It did not go through the top layer of the glass. The description of the kits in the magazine doesn't say anything about drilling the glass.
Well, it is probably as minor a chip as possible. It seems to definitely be a tiny chip, not too deep, maybe 1/32nd inch in and kind of powdery looking in the center where the chip is. Seems to be a short fine hairline crack or two coming from it. My guess is there is still glass between the chip spot and the laminate. I for sure don't want to drill it. I don't think plugging it could do any more damage.

The cracks are where the stress is in the glass. Those will continue to grow as the glass is heated and cooled. I'd see my agent because in ohio glass repair has no deductible. My last had no cracks,just the pulverized glass and pit.

stever · February 2016

The drilling suggestions are from the YouTubes, not the package directions.

roadburner · February 2016

Well, five days into M235i ownership and I'm absolutely convinced I made the right call. It looks like it won't see a track day until June, I could take it to the National Corvette Museum track in March, but I haven't driven it before and I'm getting too old to learn a car and a track at the same time. I'm waiting until a HPDE at Putnam Park, a track that I can drive in my sleep. My son now wants to take "his" 328i to the same event- it should be fun...

stickguy · February 2016

glad you like it. certainly a heck of a lot of car. And the power is going through the correct wheels.

snakeweasel · February 2016

oldfarmer50 said:

I didn't have an accident for 11 years except when, as a new driver, I was waving at a cute girl and tapped someone's bumper...no damage except to my ego.

Yeah but did she wave back? That's the important thing.

snakeweasel · February 2016

roadburner said:

Funny thing, when I first started teaching my son he was a pretty decent driver, but I was more nervous than when I strap into a car with a complete stranger and let him/her drive around a track at north of 100 mph. I told another instructor about it and he said my trepidation with my son was due to the fact that I wasn't working in a tightly controlled environment- on the track no one is driving in the opposite direction, no one is going to pull out in front of you, or turn in front of you. I think he had a point...

That and the fact that you were in that car on the track going at 100+ MPH being driven with someone you knew had extensive experience in doing that while with your son on the road you were being driven by someone who had no experience. I'll bet that when you were teaching your son to drive you did it by having him drive around a track at 100+ MPH you would have needed new underwear.

snakeweasel · February 2016

Mr_Shiftright said:
It is pretty amazing, when you step back and think about it---when you are driving, there are 2-ton vehicles hurtling at you at 55 mph, often a mere 5-6 feet away on 2-lane roads without a divider.

Now why did I bring that up--I'll be nervous for a week.

Think about it, how many accidents are head on collisions vs how many are striking a car going the same direction or turning in front of you?

nyccarguy · February 2016

tyguy said:

@tyguy - I applaud you! Did you register your punch over on CCBA? I get confused about who hangs out in both boards.
Thanks Bradd! Actually, I've never posted on CCBA. I figured I'd be laughed out of the place when I didn't replace my car on an annual basis

You qualify - definitely!

graphicguy · February 2016

oldfarmer50 said:
I just happened to be looking at the local CL and found these:

1965 82,000 miles, $8500

And this fixer-upper. 1968 $3200

Michaell's looks better than either.

First one, the paint is "gawdawful". So, I'd knock off $2,500 immediately for that.

2nd one looks interesting, because it "looks" solid and is kind of a blank slate to work with, assuming those patches aren't hiding some worse rusting issues, and it runs.

stickguy · February 2016

For some reason, I always hated when a different generation bed was put on a PU, so it didn't match the cab. But for a work truck,my guess NBD.

Mr_Shiftright · February 2016

snakeweasel said:

Mr_Shiftright said:
It is pretty amazing, when you step back and think about it---when you are driving, there are 2-ton vehicles hurtling at you at 55 mph, often a mere 5-6 feet away on 2-lane roads without a divider.

Now why did I bring that up--I'll be nervous for a week.
Think about it, how many accidents are head on collisions vs how many are striking a car going the same direction or turning in front of you?

True--another classic case of perceived vs. actual risk. Humans aren't that great at risk assessment.

oldfarmer50 · February 2016

stickguy said:
For some reason, I always hated when a different generation bed was put on a PU, so it didn't match the cab. But for a work truck,my guess NBD.

Good eye. I wouldn't have known that was a replacement bed from a newer model unless the ad mentioned it.

imidazol97 · February 2016

Mr_Shiftright said:
It is pretty amazing, when you step back and think about it---when you are driving, there are 2-ton vehicles hurtling at you at 55 mph, often a mere 5-6 feet away on 2-lane roads without a divider. . True--another classic case of perceived vs. actual risk. Humans aren't that great at risk assessment.

I learned to drive on Indiana country roads when the passing margin was smaller than on most roads today. Many of the roads that were paved were narrow and two cars passed with what seemed like a foot between the mirrors. Then there were the gravel roads where some people didn't slow down much as they passed by an oncoming car. Really gave the cringing feeling sometimes.

The edge of the pavement was the dirt of the side ditch. No berm to allow for error.

Meeting oncoming cars going 65 mph on the narrow macadam paved roads was a thrill for a new driver. A little mistake--dead. No safety features -- however, I did install seatbelts in my first car, 1962 Fairlane 500 Ford in the reinforced holes already in the floorpan for belts. Then my 1967 notchback Mustang had seatbelts and a padded steering wheel hub.

Mr_Shiftright · February 2016

I drove 6X6 gasoline tankers in the Army because I heard that no officers and no other vehicles wanted to be anywhere near you. This proved true. We were like a lonesome traveling leper colony----unless of course you needed gas.

Now I feel I can drive anything on wheels.

[Deleted User] · February 2016

LOL. My brother-in-law drove mobile missile launchers for the Air Force. Who's going to tailgate a missile? No one.

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