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http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/hpas.jsp
Then again I never heard of police tires?
"1986–94 A squeak or chirp coming from the blower motor can be stopped by installing an upgraded blower motor with improve1986–94—A squeak or chirp coming from the blower motor can be stopped by installing an upgraded blower motor with improved brush-to-commutator friction.d brush-to-commutator friction."
I also see that a new blower motor could be $495 (according to another post).
I know I can take the blower motor out, anyway I can solve (electric motor oil?)
Any thoughts?
The motor doesn't cost $495 but I could see where labor would. Someone at work paid a dealer $650 to change the heater core on his 96.
Lube may help but I bet the noise comes back. Normally I'd say just buy a new motor but now I wonder if the new one wouldn't have the same problem. There isn't much choice beyond those two.
On the other hand, the Taurus has a fairly firm ride. If you go with an H-rated tire or higher, you may find that the ride has gotten very harsh. I've used H-rated tires on sedans with less firm rides/less able handling and they've made the car much more responsive. I stuck with the T rated tires for my Taurus since the ride and handling were fine to me.
(I got Bridgestone Turanza LS-T tires on the recommendation of a local tire shop. I wanted decent handling, long life, and good rain and snow traction. After 3000 miles, I am very satisfied. Try them--they come with a 30-day satisfaction guarantee; don't like 'em, Bridgestone credits you the price. They are rated for 80,000 miles of treadlife. They are a new-for 2002 tire, and are unrelated to Firestone tires, being made in Japan.)
I live in the Detroit area and had a few Ford/Lear engineer guys in my car over the weekend. I showed them what it was doing and told them I planned to replace the rotors to see if that solved anything (this problem usually went away after grinding the rotors but would appear again in 3-5,000 miles). One of the guys said to forget it, that I would "never get rid of that problem w/the 2000 Taurus". He said it's a well-known problem w/recent model Taurus'. He even went on to say that many of them have a nasty shake - up to 1" of movement in the wheel - just driving at highway speeds.
Has anyone else experienced this problem or heard anything like this? I still plan on replacing the rotors to see if it gets better.
Thanks,
Rob
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Shaking during driving without braking can be caused by tire problems-like out of round, unbalance, or other front end problems-maybe even alignment if it has caused tire cupping. Possibly some front suspension wear? I suggest you get a thorough front end inspection.
I don't know about rotor design cchanges-my old 90 Taurus went to 98,000 before I sold it and I had none of these problems, however the rotors were replaced once fairly early on due to a recall because rotors were failing early due to corrosion. My 2000 Taurus has been fine, but I only have 20,000 miles on it.
Usually rotors are only good for one or maybe two turnings as the rotor becomes too thin to turn any more.
I had my rotors ground at 20k miles. I don't expect them to last too long. When they warp again I'll put on after market ones. I did that on my last car (Honda) after several factory sets and never had a problem again.
Have you had any work done lately? Pinched wires are a common source of shorts.
Is the trunk light actually off?
Did something, like the radio, clock etc., stop working recently? It could be related.
You can pull fuses one at a time and see which one stops the problem. This is tedeous without a meter since you have to see every morning if you can start the car. Once you narrow it down to a circuit then unplug all the electronics on that circuit one at a time.
Also, interesting sounds beginning to come from the powersteering when I turn right.
I also had the chirping in my blower for the first few years. It mysteriously stoped a while ago.
Any help in solving this problem would certainly be appreciated. THANKS!
If the oil smell is coming in through the ventilation system, take a look at my post of a week or so ago.
Question: Does this sound accurate? Dealership said it would be about $100...does anyone know of a cheaper way?
Thanks,
Rob
It has been a while, but I recall doing this myself with an extra key I bought when my Taurus was new. Check your manual. The keys them self are expensive due to the embedded chip, but it shouldn't cost you $100 if you do the programming yourself.
I am new to this discussion. I have a 2000 SE Wagon with 73k miles on it. I have two concerns about it. The first one is about the tire pressure. The front two tires recommend the max pressure of 44 psi, but the max pressure of the two rear tires cannot excess 35 psi. What type of tire is recommended to the Ford Taurus? Is there any problem I use different tires? Especially, does it affect the performance of the car? I usually keep the front tire pressure at 40-42psi, and the rear tire 32-34psi. What is the pressure I should keep in my case, especially in winter now? What about the rotation of the tires?
The second concern is about the gas mileage. After I did a transmission overhauls 3000 miles ago, it could reach 20/27. But after I just finished a maintenance, it can get only 18/24. What they did was just changing oil, replacing the air filter, fuel filters, and the plugs. Do you know the reason to cause this efficiency drop?
Thanks.
It sounds like you have two different brands/styles of tire on your car front and rear.
Do not exceed the max allowed (cold measured-meaning non driven for several hours) pressure on the tire in any event. I tend to run mine about 4 PSI higher than what the Ford sticker recommends for my 2000 Taurus sedan(around 34-36 psi), to allow some margin for the inevitable slight leakage that all tires seem to show over time, and because I prefer a firmer ride-and more pressure will tend to make tires run cooler during high speed runs, which is better for the tire.
I cannot comment on your other problems, sounds like whoever did your tuneup/transmission service may have screwed something up. Do you notice any difference in performance? Also, be aware cold weather operation usually sucks your mileage down.
Although it's covered under warrenty, I'd rather fix it myself. Anyone else with this problem?
Is it a simple fix?
Maybe "alcan" or someone else with more knowledge than myself will chime in.
I seldom need the A/C on even at 70-80F with the sunroof open but I like run warm air on the windshield to defog in early Fall here in New England or circulate warm air around my feet in January. Can't do these things without the compressor running.
Proposed solution: If I add a switch into the 12 volt compressor clutch circuit and locate in below the dash for easy access, does anyone know of any side-effects that might occur? My '91 Explorer has a push button to on/off the compressor and it works great.
P.S. My factory warranty extends until June 2003. Should I suffer until then and make the modification after the warranty expires?
It does come on for defrosting which is good for two reasons: it is way more effective, and the compressor needs to run now and then to keep the seals lubricated.
Another change I want to make is to have manual control of the recirculate door. I sit in commuter traffic and if I want heat, I get exhaust too. I wish Ford had made this system more flexible, I thought the brain-dead HVAC design went out in the 80's. The problem with this change is that the recirc is vacuum actuated so some sort of vacuum switching is required. It would be much easier if it were electric.
Thanks
I also had a smell issue but not from a coolant leak. If you have a leaky heater core it should become obvious when the floor gets wet. My smell was due to pulling in engine compartment air along with fresh air. It only smelled when the car wasn't moving. If this is like your problem then look back 10 or 20 posts for my solution. It was to put foam weather strip tape across the front plastic area under the hood seal.
gunk in the coolent.
It is rotting out the system and has
not clogged the heater core.
The service station said he can not get the
heater core un-plugged. He wants $550 to replace it. He has to remove the steering collum and the whole dash !!! The part is $50 !!!
Does anyone know any way to clean out the core??
One more thing.
There is a recall on the brown gunk.
Several years ago, the dealer replaced the
coolent expansion tank and flushed the system.
It did nothing to help.
I was thinking of going into the heater core
with long Q-Tips or vaccuum to clean it out.
Has anyone had any luck cleaning one out??
The gas station used compressed air with
no luck.
Thanks !!!
Also, on the heater core, in my old mustang days knew a guy who recommended every year pulling the lines to and from the core under the hood and blowing through with compressed air, this may help keep 'em clear. 'Course, the heater hoses in '67 mustangs were easy to get to... could this work on our beasts?
BTW, so far (2 1/2 weeks) I LOVE this car, vulcan engine and all.