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I haven't used this dealer much, despite being on my second Taurus from the same dealer and having them a total of 13 years. Only have really used them for recalls and this one warranty job, but they have been very good. I do my own routine maintenance and have gone to independent shops for other service and repairs over the years, but I may reconsider and pay a little more for transmission fluid, coolant flushes, etc though this dealer, given the convenience.
I can't find any way of checking the auto box fluid anywhere. Also, Ford say I should change the fluid about now. Is it sealed on this model with a high quality fluid?
Also, they say the spark plugs should run to 100,000 miles. Can anyone confirm that realistically this works? Or should i get them changed.
I do 80% highway mileage.
Thanks in anticipation, still think these are underrated cars. Can't find anything that will give me the space, performance and comfort at the price.
As far as plugs, I am not near the mileage required for changing those, but based on my past experience with platinum plugs, they will likely go to 100K, but some people recommend changing them earlier as they claim that the plugs tend to freeze themselves into the head. This may just be an internet rumor. Unless you fear this and or have starting, running or mileage dropoff issues, I would let them go to near 100K.
I fully agree with your last paragraph. Hard to beat the peformance/price combination-new or used.
Good luck,
Rob
Regarding earlier posts about fluid, I too was told that shops were using Dexron in all transmissions a few years back, and the Ford type F was actually better. The government was using F exclusively since it met MILSPEC. I've only found 2 honest shops in Savannah in 20 years. Checking shops for a minor sluggish shift and leak, 4 shops wanted around $1500 saying it needed a major rebuild. The last charged me $30 to replace three minor items. My son-in-law blew the front seal 40K later, abusing it by pulling 2.5K pounds through hilly country. The last leg of 500 miles he blew it at the top of a hill because he tried to beat traffic by pulling out at the foot of the hill with it floored to the top. Incidently the honest shop was bought by a chain. The other honest one was a TX parts shop that rebuild TX and sold them as rebuilds. He got ran out of business.
Has anyone tried to force cold air through the center console?
Also I would like to know if anyone has found a product to reglue the liner to the door. Once it is peeled away from the metal, the original glue lets loose after a short time. Tried weather stripping tape and it lets loose as well.
- Rob
third trip to ford garage this month. First they said it was a front seal and replaced it. Still leaked. Second thought a small "microscopic leak in bell housing. Then they decided that wasn't it. and reassembled it. Still leaks and its back in the shop for the third try.
Any suggestions for what is really wrong?
Tom
Thanks to those who responded about long life spark plugs, i checked mine and they seem in really good shape.Also, i opened my eyes at last, and found the auto trams dip stick. Why the hell is that so in-accessible?
Thanks again.
Ian
I didn't argue w/them because I realized it would do no good. And for whatever reason I can't find the paperwork for when that repair was done, and I certainly can't remember the Ford dealer that did the work (I used to travel a lot). So...
1) How do I find out who did the work and when?
2) Is that right that Ford will stick to their guns on a 12 month/12,000 repair - even if it's recall related?
3) Where do I go to complain? I don't have time to sit on the phone with CSR's but I would like to write someone w/the details.
Thanks,
Rob
Is it in Dearborn Michigan?
I'd contact Ford Motor Co. with as many details as I can provide so they can retrieve the info you need. Tell them approximate dates of the service, dealer location (if you remember) and the obvious would be your car's VIN #, etc.
I wouldn't be too concerned about Ford's negative reaction to your claim. But if you don't try, you'll never know.
Good luck!
The "Service Engine Soon" light has been on for quite long time. But I did not feel anything wrong with the engine or transmission. The previous owner had it checked in some garage and was told it's nothing. Then last week I had it checked in another garage. The mechanic told me the code was "P0304", and he said it was something about Cam sensor, he checked the sensor and nothing was wrong. I don't trust his explanation about the code. I found this code means misfire in the No.4 cylinder in some OBDII website. I am not sure if this is right, because I think misfire would usually cause bad gas mileage or lack of power. I got 27mpg on highway, and did not feel lack of power any time. Engine idle speed is about 700rpm and stable. A bit confused.
Another problem is the steering noise. Within the car, it can barely be heard. But outside I feel terrible to hear this squeak noise near the wheel. The mechanic said it was the tie rod, but it was not too bad, and I can keep it for a while before changing it. I wonder if it is helpful to add grease to lub the connector? (Don't know if this car need grease for those joints)
Should I go to another garage and have it checked again? Is there a easy way to check the reason for misfire?
P0304 = Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0340 = Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0341 = Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0342 = Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0343 = Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit High Input
P0344 = Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent
Re the front end noise, if it's a creaking noise when the wheel's turned it probably has a bad outer tie rod end. They're not greasable, replace only and have toe in reset afterwards.
Generally speaking I don't think you can go wrong. I WILL say though, that if you're willing to consider another American car (foreign resales in this category just aren't worth the added $ in my opinion) take a hard look at the Grand Prix. The G.P. is a little sportier, rides lower, isn't as easy to get in/out of but to me it was a GREAT car for 100k miles. My Taurus too has been very reliable and low maintenance, but I used to really ENJOY driving that G.P. If I ever get another four door sedan I may upgrade to a G.P. GT...even though Pontiac made them look awfully similar to the Grand Am (foolish mistake in my mind). Good luck.
- Rob
Alcan, as far as I remember you have an SHO. Do you think, screw size is the same with 2000 SES. I need to clean the MAF sensor.
I have some annoying pinging. It doesn't happen all the time. Usually running against hills, accelarating etc and summer times. If I use FI cleaner, it goes away.
I will look into MAF before I get FInjectors cleaned.
Any input....
I've got the PCM reprogrammed per TSB. Didn't help.
If a DEALER is selling this vehicle for $2900 I'd be sure and check out the private used car market. My experience with used car dealers is that they mark the cars up anywhere from 50-100%. I'm not knocking that, everyone deserves to make a buck in this country, but you should be able to find some salesman who racked up a quick 100k miles and is willing to sell the car for a song. I truly don't know what used car prices should be but, now that I think about it, $2900 sounds awfully cheap - for any car. Then again the Taurus doesn't really hold value well. You might want to try calling a few Ford dealers (or used car dealers) and tell them you have a '98 w/91k miles and see what THEY'LL give you for it. That will give you an idea of what this dealer has in it. Odds are a new car dealer wouldn't touch it but a used one would.
Good luck,
Rob
I had to remove the MAF sensor on my wife's '92 3.8L once, and it has the same type of fastener (don't recall the size). I located a small set of hex bits which did the job nicely and only cost a few bucks (haven't used 'em since, tho). They look like torx bits but with a hole in the center, and I think the packaging referred to the corresponding fasteners as "safety star". IIRC, they were available at the local Sears hardware store.
This sounds very odd. There are 4 screws on it. Or either dumb service adviser lady doesn't know what she talks about.
http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
Thanks.
Has anyone experienced this problem in their Sable or Taurus car?? I'd like to have an idea before I go to the shop and get eaten up alive. My car is out of the bumper to bumper warranty.
I'll appreciate any assistance or advise you guys can offer.
Otherwise, you may have a squealing serpentine belt which is due for replacement-it may chirp only when the power steering pump gets loaded when you make turns, or possibly the belt tensioner is malfunctioning. These are just guesses, however.
I'll follow your suggestions and write back.
1) go to "search this discussion" and type in STEERING NOISE (or some combination thereof) and you'll find several posts relating to this topic.
2) several of us have had the same problem (mine is a 2000 Taurus w/104k miles). I had a mechanic shoot some silicone in between the wheel and the column. That seemed to help a little but the noise is not entirely gone - and you'll find it gets worse in winter. I don't know what the entire solution is unfortunately but you're not alone and I don't think it's real harmful...at least not yet.
- Rob
UPDATE: Just noticed the search function and found a bunch of others with same problem. Seems like aftermarket rotors are the way to go. Thanks everyone. I hope Ford takes notice. Anyone ever get Ford to cover any of the costs on this????
1/ I had the anti-freeze and a top radiator hose changed.
2/ I went over a severe typical Kansas City pothole which made a horrendous noise. I checked the underside of the car and saw dripping fluid, but it looked to be coming from the air conditoner discharge which appears to be working fine by the way.
I'm taking the car in to my garage on Monday 14th, but wondered if anyone had any ideas?
Thanks in anticipation.
Ian
All steering components and parts were checked and no defects or worn parts were found. Rack and pinion steering was lubricated and I was told that this should take care of the problem. It lessened or calmed the whining sound but didn't make it disappear completely.
Car was fully serviced as well as it was due for scheduled maintenance.
It would appear that I might just have to get used to this noise and learn to live with it while I continue to do research to find a cure.
Thank you very much to johnwng, badgerfan and strokeoluck for their valuable advise!
Note: we've already replaced the transmission (at 100K); and fairly recently replaced the timing chain, front brake pads and rotors, spark plugs, PCV, and water pump. Anyway, a test yesterday found combustion gasses in the coolant, so we're looking at bad head gasket-- $1000 to $2000 depending on which parts. In addition, the AC leaks, the heater core may need replacing, the motor mount may need replacing, and the bottom edges of all the doors are starting to rust (and touch-up paint won't help for long--they're rusting from the inside out).
So, my dilemma: put another $2K-$3K into this car and hope that will take care of it for a long time, or get rid of it and put the money into a better car? Cheaper to keep it, or would I be pouring money into a rat hole?
Thanks