Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • lorelore Member Posts: 17
    My old mazda was like that, though it only had 4 gears in automatic. If you are at 4000 RPM around highway speeds, then something is wrong. It does sound like you are stuck in 4th gear, it lasts for a while right? Id bring it into the shop and have them check it out. My new Jetta is in manual so I dont have that problem. And on automatics Ive only run into that problem when you step on the gas and/or are racing or something. But eventually it does switch to that highest gear.
  • wildstockwildstock Member Posts: 1
    I'm having the same exact problem on my 96 Jetta GLS. Tried changing the distributor as the Hal sender for Engine rpms is built into, and then change the speed sensor, none of these worked. Did you find any answers yet. What is your theory? Thanks!

    Ray
  • david55838david55838 Member Posts: 55
    Hey, has anyone actually changed their own oil on the one of the new Jettas? I love doing it myself and was wondering how hard it is?

    Thanks,
    David

    :)
  • glenjetta1glenjetta1 Member Posts: 4
    Just heard back from the service manager at the dealership. He took a test drive with me in the car last night, told me he didn't think it was going into overdrive. I thought I was home free and that I won the fight. He called me this morning and said he checked with one of his "guys" and was told that this was normal and that his "guy's" personal jetta does the same thing. This is AFTER he already drove IN the car with me and said he felt that the overdrive was night working. I am ready to go crazy now.
  • waiwai Member Posts: 325
    If your car always run at a high rpm, engine life will be shorten and of course you will not get a good mileage. If you want to keep this car, make sure you use fully synthetic motor oil to protect the engine. Good luck.
  • lorelore Member Posts: 17
    Glen,

    You might want to try to take it to another dealership to see what they say. 4000 RPM is not "normal" at 80 mph, mine hovers below 3000 RPM. Then again, how many speeds are there for automatic transmission? It certainly sounds like its stuck in 4th or something.
  • raghuramraghuram Member Posts: 5
    Yes..It was fixed for free and there was a recall. I will go through my Workorders from the past and will try to get you the exact reference number..
  • raghuramraghuram Member Posts: 5
    Ye..Your's lasted too long already ! There is absolutely a TSB..(where they do not notify you unless you drive-in with the problem to the Dealer)..They should be replacing it for free..
  • raghuramraghuram Member Posts: 5
    Today the Spring under my passenger Seat has fallen down...On talking with the dealer, he mentioned that most likely the spring 'holder' under the seat may have broken and not to worry about it at all unless I have any problems in adjusting the seat- ie. pulling it front or pushing it backwards..If I want him to replace it he said that he will have to put in a new Seat !! and he was honest enough to mention that it is not needed to be fixed !
  • plessardplessard Member Posts: 1
    I hace this door lock problem too.....when i lock the doors and alarm with the remote, the driver door don't lock, i have to push unlock first and then lock again and then it lock....i own a jetta GLS 2000 and it still under waranty but they haven't heard of that problem here so anyone can tell me what the fix is???
  • fredg2fredg2 Member Posts: 1
    Hello: I don't know the solution to your problem, but I am having similar difficulties with my 98 Jetta. The 2 Remote Controllers will lock and unlock all of the doors, they will also set the alarm and disarm the alarm. I purchased a new controller to carry and absolutely could not program it. I need to know how to clear out or erase completely the security system so that I can re-program the remote controllers so that all will work.

    I think that the door locking and alarm system program is somehow corrupted since the small red light near the drivers door lock no longer flashes when the alarm system is armed.

    Anyone know how to clear out and erase the locking and security system program?

    Thanks,

    Fred ">
  • tomd514tomd514 Member Posts: 2
    I have 72,000 miles on my Jetta and wondered if anyone else has solved this issue:

    -Very firm 1-2 shift under light to moderate acceleration
    -Shift points are over 3000 rpms
    -final upshift from 3-4 only happens if I get over 40 mph, then back off the accelerator slightly. Any gas pedal pressure seems to cause a downshift back to 3rd.

    I brought it to a transmission shop and they said there weren't any transmission codes stored and although they did observe the harsh 1-2 shift, they didn't notice any other issues . They gave it back to me and said their only suggestion was to tear it down and rebuild it (although they acknowledged the symptoms they saw didn't warrant it).

    If this was a non-computer car I'd swear the issue was that the transmission "kick-down" linkage needed to be adjusted (showing my age again).

    Any ideas?

    thanks,
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Does the xmission have the proper VW-specified fluid in it?
  • vanessa626vanessa626 Member Posts: 3
    I own a 2001 VW Jetta and it is sitting in the shop right now and the mechanics dont know whats wrong w/ my car. I'll start from the beginning...
    2 weeks ago I tried to start my car and it lugged/stalled and the check engine light came on. I then tried to start it again and it ran fine. I took the car to the VW dealership 200 miles away from home and they said that my spark plugs were bad so they replaced them and did my 80k service. Everything was fine. Drove home and happy. Two weeks later new problems came about! The other day I tried to start my car and it wouldn't start. All the lights came on but nothing. Had someone try to jump my battery but that wasn't the problem. Then my boyfriend started to put the car into gear ( its an automatic) neutral and park and he tapped on the gas a few times. He repeated this several times and finally my car started. I drove it home and everything was fine. The next day after running some errands my car did it again but this time i could not get it to start. I had my car towed to a VW dealership and they have had it for 2 days. Of course now my car starts and they dont see a problem. Im really worried because they told me to pick up my car. They did nothing since they couldn't find a problem. There is a problem!!!! What do I do. I am really scared that my car is going to break down again! Please help with any advice. Thank you. :sick:
  • flip2flip2 Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyone. I have a very trick situation I wanted to get everyone's opinions about.

    I own a 97 Jetta Trek. It was a very nice car that I kept in very good condition. It is fully loaded and has a 5 speed manual transmission.

    I was recently rear ended. Aside from the body damage, I now have transmission problems. I DID NOT have these problems before hand. It is now clicking when in gear and decelerating. I brought it by the delearship and they verified the problem.

    Here's where it gets tricky. The insurance company is refusing to pay for the transmission. In addition, VW is claiming that it is not their problem either. But here's some aditional info. I had a new transmission put into the car in 2001 due to similar problems. I have 92,000 miles on the car and it already needs its second transmission!!! I think i've put around 40,000 miles on it since it was replaced.

    How do you guys think I should handle this problem???

    Should I press VW to replace the transmission?
    Should I press the insurance company?
    Am I completely screwed? :cry:

    ALL opinions / advice is REALLY appreciated.

    Thanks!
  • bill62bill62 Member Posts: 1
    The clutch pedal on my 98 Jetta went to the floor and stayed there. After an interesting ride home I deduced that it was the clutch cable. I'm in the process of trying to remove the old cable, but I'm having problems reaching around and getting to the top of the clutch pedal to remove it. I can feel the cable at the top, but I can't see it. Has anyone removed the clutch cable on the Jetta and have a suggestion for me. Thanks in advance.
  • tomd514tomd514 Member Posts: 2
    It has the original VW fluid (I'm the original owner). When I had a transmission shop check it out he said checking the fluid on this vehicle is a multi-step process. He didn't see any leaks and felt the fluid wasn't the issue. thanks for replying.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Your intermittent problem is simular to others when the fuel-pump relay is going bad. Yours may be a different problem and I would expect a competent dealership to diagnose quickly using computer diagnostics.

    It may be worthwile to swap out the fuel-pump relay anyway...just to eliminate that as the problem.

    Also, your description does not indicate if the starter moter is cranking or not. If not, I would suspect that the neutral safety switch is the problem. (The switch that makes sure that starter will only work when in Park or Neutral)

    Also, the brake-pedal switch is KNOWN to be troublesome on the 2001s. (In fact my daughters 2001 had the switch replaced under warantee last month) The symptoms for the brake-pedal switch is usually the brake-lights staying on when parked thus draining the battery.
  • vanessa626vanessa626 Member Posts: 3
    Thank you for the quick reply. The dealership contacted me the other day and said that they could not duplicate the problem. They said my car started right up. They ran a diagnostic check and found nothing. Basically they said they could not help me and told me to pick up my car. The service guy did say that he thinks maybee I have too many keys on my keychain and that could be the problem. I don't know about that one.
    When my car did not want to start there was no sound when you turned the key. No click or tick. Just nothing. Thats the strange thing.
    :confuse:
  • vanessa626vanessa626 Member Posts: 3
    I have had the same thing happen w/ two of my jetta's. The dealership hasn't been able to fix it. My passenger door just sticks sometimes. Its a pain but I i've had no luck trying to get a mechanic to fix my problem. Sorry.
  • mebev2mebev2 Member Posts: 1
    vanessa -

    the same thing happened with my car about 6 months ago - 1999 volkswagon jetta. i had it looked at 3 times and nothing could be found to be wrong with it. i am still very nervous driving, but haven't had a problem again.
  • grand4444grand4444 Member Posts: 1
    hi, im in desprit need of help. ok so i bought a 95 jetta III GLX VR6 from a privat party. it has 120 k on it. since i have bought it i have put less then 200 miles on it and i already have replaced the tires, the clutch, the spark plugs, the wires, the oil, i have fixed a steering fluid leak, a leak from the windsheild wipper resivor, a belt tightener, the spair, the audio system, new brake pads, new headlights, new battery, new rear rotors, and a spectacular job on the reconditioning of the cars apperence... but problems just keep coming... right now there is a loud ticking sound coming from under the altenator. the noise speeds up as the rpms do. i believe that it might have something to do with the gear belt. but im not sure. :mad: this car has costed me alot of money and its also ran my leg over.. but i still want it to shine.... i dont know what im going to do but i cant be spending grands on this damn thing. so can anyone help me ? :sick:
    thanks
  • farmhomefarmhome Member Posts: 4
    My wife's Jetta will not Idle. You have to half pedal the brake and gas to keep it running. We had a mechanic try to adjusted the idle speed and there are no set screws to adjust the idle, so he loosened a cable screw and increased the idle. OK until the computer figured it out and back to 150+/- RPM to STALL. Now it's got worse.... I need help before we get somebody killed. Every stop sign and slow to stop in traffic. If you catch it soon enough you can drop the clutch for a re-start or you have to stop and re-start. There got to be a Great VW Mechanic out there that can give me some help.... Please Help! Thank You
  • create38create38 Member Posts: 3
    for some reason my 96 jetta has a hard time starting then when it does start the first spark plug loses its spark after i press down on the gas pedal

    any ideas?? suggestions??
  • farmhomefarmhome Member Posts: 4
    How can I adjust the Idle on a 1997 Jetta?? :sick:

    What is the "Idle Speed Stablizer" ?

    How can I test or check to see if the "Idle Speed Stablizer" is My Problem? :confuse:

    Thank you for your help :)
  • tim29tim29 Member Posts: 1
    Help I am unable to remove rear rotors from my 2000 jetta . If I remove the set screw that is in the rotor will i be able to remove the rotor? or do I have to remove the brace that goes around it as well. I all ready removed the caliber and pads. Let me know what I need to do.
  • farmhomefarmhome Member Posts: 4
    How can I adjust the Idle on a 1997 Jetta?? :sick:

    What is the "Idle Speed Stablizer" ?

    How can I test or check to see if the "Idle Speed Stablizer" is My Problem? :confuse:

    Thank you for your help :) Macmini did you get your VW fixed or are they junk after 100,000 miles. :blush:
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    The idle cannot be adjusted manually in 1996 or later models. The idle is controlled by the engine rpm control sensor - which is a $60.00 plugin module that needs to be replaced (you can probably replace it yourself if you are a DIY type). I would tell you where to order it online, but that is apparently frowned upon :( in these forums.... Do an online search for the make, model and year of your car, as well as the type of engine...
  • farmhomefarmhome Member Posts: 4
    :) Thank You,

    I was also told to check for vacuum leaks. What do you think?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (farmhome) If the idle problem started to happen "suddenly" (did not start small then get worse) Then most likely the problem is NOT the idle-speed stablizer.

    Also, since after you had a mechanic muck with the mechanical setting... the computer put the idle back where it belongs.. I would venture a guess that your "idle-speed stablizer" is DEFINATLY not at fault. (Did it not correctly readjust?)

    You MUST undo what that mechanic did. It is very bad to muck with the baseline settings in an effort to fix a problem. As you discovered, it will only make things worse.

    First thing to to -- undo what that mechanic did.
    Second thing to to -- CHECK FOR SPARKPLUG MISFIRING AT IDLE
    Third --LOOK FOR VACUUM LEAKS.

    Also -- CLEAN THE THROTTLEBODY

    Finally, If the problem still persists -- Look for somone with a VagCom

    The only way to diagnose your problem is by communicating with the on-board computers.

    Here is one way to find somone that may be willing to help: http://www.steve-hall.com/cgi-bin/VAG-Locator.pl
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I found a webpage that explains step-by-step how to diagnose your idle problem. It even points out some items to check to reduce stalling.

    Go to this webpage and click on "Checking the petrol engine management system" From there, just step thru the screens and read the yellow ballons that pop up.

    As an aside, my daughter is stopping by the house today with here VW golf. She has a CEL (CheckEngineLight) illuminated. I have my VagCom ready to hook up to her car to diagnose it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Great, Please report back and let us know how you do with it. Is this tool expensive?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Expensive is a relitive term. I paid about $250 for my VagCom. I already had a laptop computer so I did not consider that part of the cost.

    However, since there are currently 3 VWs in our family and I have used VagCom on all 3 cars for various reasons, that cost should be "amortized" based on several things.

    1) It costs at least $50 just to have a dealership plug his computer into your car. (even if they do not fix anything)
    2) I have already diagnosed and corrected several issues with 2 of the VWs in the family.
    3) The VagCom tool can also read codes from virtually any car with OBDII.
    4) I can "reporgram" the cars to behave exactlty as the owners wish (beep when lock, automatically lock when driving, turn on DRL....etc)
    5) I can reprogram the key-fobs when I replace batterys (dealers charge $$ for this service)

    I figure my VagCom will more than pay for itself within 2 years. Given that I have been working on cars since I was old enough to hold a wrench, I see my VagCom as another tool in my toolbox. No longer do I have to "guess" why the CEL is on or why the engine stumbles at idle when one of my daughters asks me to look at her car.

    With todays cars, just replacing the battery can cause the radio to go into "safe mode" and the onboard computer may need to be "reset" to keep the xmission from shifting poorly. Without a means to communicate with the onboard electronics, a trip to the dealership would be required.
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    Did you get this car inspected by a 3rd party mechanic prior to the purchase? I am sorry you are so "DESPERATE".
  • aefaboyaefaboy Member Posts: 1
    Over the last 12 months, the car has been driven very little. When we start the car and try to drive - we are having more and more trouble getting it into gear. Any insight is greatly appreciated.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Your description sounds like idler wheel bearing to me.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    It sounds as if your clutch is not disenguaging all the way. If you have hydrolic clutch, this would be a prolbem with either the master or slave cylinder.
  • etown1etown1 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2001 Wolfsburg Jetta with 61,000 miles. The car has been running well, but just as I pulled into work today the check engine light came on. What are some of the causes for this? I am a little over due for an oil change, and I just had the driver side mirror replaced due to an accident. I know they had to disconnect the electrical system for that. However, I have been driving it since Monday with no problems until today. thanks for your help.
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    Do you drive a 1.8t? If you have made it a habit to go over on your oil changes regulary, then you might have a sludge issue. How often and what kind of oil have you been using?
  • lauren8lauren8 Member Posts: 1
    I am having a problem with my 1999 New Jetta GLX, VR6 model. There may be something electronically wrong with the transmission, which my dealer is not sure about yet and I am supposed to just "drive around" to see if it happens again, which so far it hasn't seemed to, although I am not sure if this is related, but today I was stopped on a hill and my car just jerked. That really is the only way I can describe it. Now, unless the car behind me hit me and I didn't realize it, I have no idea why it would suddenly just jerk like that. Has anyone else had these types of problems? I bought this car used almost a year and a half ago with 54,000 miles and no problems. Now all of a sudden since about 67,000 miles in June, it has been having problems. Not sure what to do... :cry:
  • etown1etown1 Member Posts: 5
    I do have a 1.8t. I don't normally go over on my oil changes. I change every 5000, per instructions. However, I'm at 6500 at the moment. I use Castrol Syntec oil. 5w-30. Thanks for your help. Should I take it to the dealer tonight? It's still under warranty.
  • j3zterj3zter Member Posts: 1
    Try looking near the throttle body, there should be a tention screw on it ( screw in and out for lower and higher idle) idle speed stablizer or idle speed control, is on or near the throttle body ( diferant years i dont know) but thats where it SHOULD be. My ISS was my "supposed" problem on 2 diff cars with same problem. It "should" look like somthing you can un-screw a few screws and replace with ease ( black on mine) but there are a hand full of ways to screw it back on with differing results ( resulting in yet more ways to adjust your idle) It should be very in expensive to replace and is a hard plastic electrical part not mechanical, looks like this on both my cars ( a jetta and a dodge stealth) O= with the "=" being a place thats plugged in and the O being screwed to throttle body. :confuse: I don`t know if dif years in jettas have dif locals for the iss or dif tech specs, but it should be realtivly the same.Replacing my iss on my jetta along with adjusting the idle ( hand and hand anyways) solved my problems. give it a good look to find it, its very hard to notice off-hand, i dont know how to test it though?? anyone else know how? very valuable to know "just in-case" on any car ( idle speed stablizer, idle speed control, and idle speed servo, same thing, dif tech names ), ~*and heres a secret.. for new cars.. the gas in the winter time/colder states.. the gas b4 you get it, was stored in the underground tanks at the station.. collects frost, gets in your car and its now gas and water, messes everything up...... buy some "heat" if your sick of stalling out,loosing or slipping gears and just plain old power lose *~ ?? was probaly no help at all, oh well
  • cathy2cathy2 Member Posts: 8
    My advice...get rid of the car as soon as possible! My first "check engine" light on my 1.8T 2001 was the start of 2 years of frustration, expensive repairs, and towing of my car. Turbo problems, electrical problems, I can go on and on...and the check engine light will always come back on...my next car I will be sure to look at these forums first, to get the real deal. Just look at all the othe jetta postings.
    Sorry to be less than helpful.....
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You need to have you car hooked to a computer to diagnose the problem. It very well may be the MAF (MassAirFlow) sensor.

    The 2001s are part of a 7year / 70,000 mile extended warantee on the MAF sensor.

    In fact, I just diagnosed my daughters 2001 Golf using laptop computer with VAG-COM installed. If you do not have access to VAG-COM, many autoparts stores will "pull the codes" from your car free of charge.
  • jends23jends23 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 jetta and recently found out that the engine is leaking oil onto the spark plugs causing them to misfire. I hear it is expensive to fix and i have 102,000 miles. Along with that, the "arm" underneath the car is loose and needs to be fixed. Feels like I don't have any shocks, but the guy said that's not it.
    How much does it cost for these things? Is it worth fixing? I just paid it off and would like to keep it for another year or so. Any advice?
  • fraugfreakfraugfreak Member Posts: 1
    Hello, hopefully someone can help me. My driver door, on my 2000 Jetta GLS, does not unlock the first time, i have to keep hitting the unlock button on the remote until the knob stays up or open the door right when i hit the unlock button. I called the dealership (the only one in OKC :cry: ) and its going to cost between $350.00 and $500.00 to get it repaired depending on the problem. I was hoping to get it fixed before i sold it, but i can't afford that. Has anyone had this problem, is it a recall or can someone refer me to another place in OKC to get it fixed??
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Does the key work? If so, why not forget about the remote and just unlock it by sticking the key in and turning it? You know there was a time when that was the only way we got in our cars :D .

    If you plan to sell it, just tell the buyer the remote does not work and they will have to do things the old-fashioned way. I doubt the selling price will be $350 less just for not having the remote lock/unlock feature.
  • blongheierblongheier Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I've had a problem with the front plastic grilles on my 2002 Jetta disappearing. Not the upper grille with the VW badge, but the black plastic ones below it. There are two smaller ones towards the corners and a longer one in the middle.

    The driver's side grille had popped out twice previously. But just recently I noticed all three were missing. I think it's too strong a coincidence all three fell out at once. But based on the fact I had lost the driver's side grille twice before, I suppose it's not out of the question. My car is garaged, and the only significant length of time it is parked outside is at my office, which is monitored by security cameras.

    I just wondered if anyone else had experienced a persistent problem with losing these things, as I am getting tired of replacing them! Thanks!
  • deaner14deaner14 Member Posts: 40
    I've only managed to permanently lose my driver side grill. Once. A trip to the local VW dealer and $10 later I was fine again.

    The others have popped loose but not lost on two occasions. After I stopped pulling the front end over the curbs when I parked, the problem seems to have rectified itself. Seems the grills like to come loose when you reverse and the shroud rubs the curb and gets a little distorted.
  • cgnyccgnyc Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2000 VW Jetta with 41,000 miles. On two occasions my EPC & check engine light came on. The first time my car would not go over 25 mph. I took it to the dealer and they replaced the accelerator sensory unit & reset the computer. I got the car back and in less than 2 weeks, the same thing happened, only this time my engine was revving extremely high when idling. I got the car back last friday. They replaced the control unit, reprogrammed the instrument cluster & replaced the throttle peddle (tried replacing the throttle valve but it didn't help). Anyway, by Sunday, my car was back to square one with high rpms in idle state. Currently my car is at the dealership again. They called me to say that they think the cause of this is my battery (it is not running at full capacity) and are going to replace it. Do you think it will help? I've been trying to do as much research on line to find the source of the problem and to learn more about my car while I await the dealership to fix the problem.. Anyone have any ideas as to what could be wrong with my car? Thanks!
    :cry:
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