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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Suspect youu vacuum brake-booster is the problem.
  • Do I need to replace the booster and master cylinder: The VW people quoted about 500 in parts and four hours of labor. They will not quarentee that it will fix the problem since they can't "reproduce" the problem in the test drive. By the way, did you know that all the service department personnel get paid solely by commision. Even less from warranty work. The manager at one of the VW dealers admitted that to me; I couldn't believe it.
  • I just bought a 96 Jetta with 118k miles on it. After a couple days of driving it, it started to show a couple of problems. It idles a little under 10 (not sure if this is normal), when I start the car it hesitates and sometimes I have to crank it twice before it starts, also when I accelerate when stopped it waits and then jumps forward.
    Anyone have suggestions on what might be wrong with it??
    Thank you
  • I have a 1998 Jetta Wolfsburg and just replaced my ignition switch, including the electrical system, and starter. My car was a little different... it said the e-brake was always on, and it was loose and had troubles initiating the starter... i'd check into the TCM, then check the ignition system
  • do you know when your spark plugs were last replaced.. also check and make sure the distributor cap is ok and all cables are ok.. simple but might help... it sounds like your having troubles with igniting because other than plugs, those two problems shouldn't be too related.. i just replaced the plugs and wires (kinda have to on a jetta) and it has 120k and the stock plugs were in it!!! you should just do this anyways
  • i have a 98 jetta, and i'm pretty handy at it now, but how can i replace the light for my gauges, or one of them. for those of you with the older jetta you'll know the gauge doesn't light up, but instead a green light (or w/e color) just lights up the gauge. how do i get to these?? thank you anyone
  • Idling a little under 10 is normal. If the plugs, wires, distributor cap are all fine, you may want to have the ignition coil tested. I had a small crack in mine that developed further until the car wouldn't start at all. Starting my Jetta has never been a pleasant experience, especially when cold. That is even after new cap/rotors, better plugs, better wires, new battery, new ignition coil. Electrical problems are something inherent in gen 3 Jettas. Is the car waiting then jumping forward because the transmission is slipping?
  • I have an 01 Jetta VR6, that recently had the Emission Workshop message come on with the check engine warning light. In researching the net, people have suggested its only an O2 sensor, or vaccuum hoses, but I am noticing a serous lack of power in my engine, especially at low RPMs. I had filled my tank with some god-awful gas (literally, a no-name brand "FUEL") cuz I was close to empty, and I thought that maybe it had water in it and that was causing my problem. (The warnings came on the next day) I have since filled up with Hi-Test, and run it a significant amount, only there still exists the problem. Any ideas, any one?
  • I just leased a 2006 GLI. It's a nice machine, but since I also tried one at a competing dealership, I see now that the car I drove there must be a 2007 model--which I hadn't realized was on the market yet.

    The steering wheel in the'07 seemed a bit thicker. The driver's headrest, and, I think, the passenger's too, are a design which supports the head and neck actively in some way in the event of a rear collision.

    I've noticed that these two items are missing from the 2006 I leased.

    Are there other differences between the 2006 and 2007 GLIs?
  • usausa Posts: 8
    I got my car back Saturday. Two weeks to the day when the transmission failed. However I was disappointed to learn that the replacement is a reman not a new unit. I was told that they were ordering a NEW transmission. So the transmission I have now has failed at least once before.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,445
    Well not necessarily. The transmission you got NEW failed before---a reman might have been inspected and corrected for defects. You may not be worse off with a reman.

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  • steven39steven39 Posts: 636
    with all of the well documented problems and quality issues regarding the vw jetta,how anyone can buy a 10 year old jetta with over 100,000 miles is beyond are asking for trouble with the purchase of that used should have gone with a used toyota,honda,ect.get ready for some major league repair bills with your jetta.sorry to burst your bubble here.
  • I have a 97 GL, manual transmission 2.0 litre, with 121K miles. The problems have been very few, if any. Other that regular maint, I haven't had to do too much more to the car to keep it in good order. Recently though, a occasional problem with the brake light on the dash has revealed itself. This only happens when driving with the headlights on. The brake light remains lit even when the hand brake is completely disengaged and the reservior is completely full. This in turn shuts off my headlights, the interior lights stay lit. Sometimes when this happens, I can lift the handbrake handle slightly to engage the brake light for the hand brake, disengage the hand brake and the light goes off and the headlights relight. It seems to me there is a problem with either the sensor reading the brake fluid in the resevior or the sensor on the hand brake. Regardless, when the brake light on the dash lights up with the hand brake disengaged, it is dimmer than the normal light with the handbrake engaged. Anyone have this happen to them?
  • mwebb11mwebb11 Posts: 13
    well this has happend to me on two different occasions. in the past, i thought my ignition switch needed replacing to fix it because it was loose, but no, the whole elecrical part of the ignition needed replacing. however, when my light was on, my headlights WOULDN'T turn on... but if i wiggled the key it would go off and fix my lights... ignition! but, i just put new calipers and roters on the rear, and i had to disconnect the cable of course.. but when i refilled with some fluid and after a week of driving, it was fixed.. will this help, i dont know... it could definitely be the sensor.. check that the plunger that falls into the fluid is working
  • Thanks - will give it a try.
  • I wouldn't necessarily agree with buying a 10 yr old Jetta with a lot of miles. I will say that they are a hell of a lot more fun to drive than a used toyota, honda, etc. It's been worth the money I've spent to keep mine going. I guess it is a personal preference thing.
  • I currently have a 1994 Jetta with 135K miles on it, I bought it after my 1991 Jetta with 155K miles on it.

    The idle under 10 is a typical problem that I've encountered with my Jettas. I had that problem in the 91 for about 3 years before it got unbearable. From what I can gather and remember, I believe that the problem was the distributor. I've recently replaced the distributor on my 94 (and several hunred $ later) and I no longer have the idle/racing problem. With the slipping, I've also found that on both of my Jettas, but I haven't noticed it as much on my 94 since the distributor was replaced.

    However it did take about 1 month for the mechanic to diagnose the problem and he was hesitant to do it due to the cost.

    Overall I've found that older Jettas do have their issues, typical exhaust system repairs, suspension and an occasional water pump, but I feel as though I've gotten my money's worth out of it.
  • jessyjessy Posts: 4
    I have posted before but I am trying again becuase it feels like no one can hear me!:)
    I have had my new jetta ( lux package) since July, I love it except for the fact that I can hardly get 250 miles out of a tank, sometimes more like 200. I am a city driver but no one told me this would worse mileage than an SUV. VW doesnt care of course and I am really annoyed. I had a honda before and even when it was old I filled it every 2-3 weeks. Can ANYONE relate??
  • conessconess Posts: 15
    How are you breaking your engine in? I get about 200 miles for half a tank. Do you have a lot of stuff in your trunk? In otherwords alot of weight? If it's city driving, how many miles do you put on? My guess is that you haven't reached a point where you have broken your engine in and the stop and go is killing ur mileage.

    IMHO - You shouldn't exceed 60mph prior to reaching 1000 miles. If you accelerate, ease your engine down. But that's just me.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    What was your actual mpg in the honda and what year, model, and engine was it?
  • cosmocosmo Posts: 203
    Responding to your question is difficult because it is unclear what you mean by a tank. Some people consider the 1/4 level as a time to refill, others when the warning light comes on, and others when the needle is right on E. What is the actual mpg you have been getting?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Jessy - As I recall you got a lot of very good suggestions the last time you asked that question. It appears that the very same suggestions are being said again for this time you complained about MPG.

    You may wish to RE READ all those past suggestions.

    Bottom line:
    1) Consensly think about how you are breaking in your engine.
    2) Consensly change your driving habits to improve MPG.
    3) Engine is not "loosend up" in for at least 15K miles.

    Actually MEASURE your MPG.... judging from a "tankfull" is not accurate because of many factors including;
    *) size of fuel tank
    *) behaviour of fuel gauge needle (as compared to other cars)

    BTW: I constistantly get between 600 - 700 miles per tankfull on my TDI 8-)

    I also write down EVERY drop of fuel that is put into the tank and the milage. I KNOW that I can get up to 56 MPG on my Jetta.
  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    This has already been asked, but how much gas are you putting in your car when you fill up? If you are filling up with half a tank left then your 200 mile range is not accurate. 1/4 tank left? Please tell. 250 miles with 1/4 tank left on city driving is not too bad.

    I asked these same questions back in Aug and don't think you ever answered them.
  • mwebb11mwebb11 Posts: 13
    alright so here's my pickle... i just bought an aftermarket cold air intake for my 98 jetta, and the first problem i might have is keeping all the necessary electrical hooked up for it to function correctly... i dont' want my jetta to act up or any warning lights to be on... so if anyone has installed an intake on their jetta, an tips would be GR8!! secondly, if i do install it now, is it going to cause me problems in the winter... i don't want my fuel line to freeze up.. i'm pretty sure i won't have a problem with h2O getting into my engine cause it will be pretty protected, but should i install it before winter or wait.. I DONT WANNA WAIT THOUGH :) :confuse: oh yeah.. my dang blinkers both "work", but they flash too fast... and very dimly... should i just a higher wattage bulb in them... the fuse looks good, but can it still be bad without being burnt out?
  • Sorry for the late reply .. I got a VAGCOM code tested and it shows up as P0411, the o2 sensor code does not show up but I still have the cel on. Upon talking to a dealer - he thought the best way was to get it diagnosed there since they are better equipped and can better troubleshoot.

    Can the VAGCOM be different from what the dealer has?

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The VAGCOM is no better or worse than the computer which the dealership uses. The real trick is the SKILL which is used to diagnose a problem. Most dealerships DO NOT have some special skills.... but they do have access to troubleshooting information which many folks do not have.

    A VAGCOM used in conjunciton with troubleshooting skills is no less effective than a dealership computer.

    BEWARE: Most dealerships will CHARGE you to just hook your car up to their computer (somthing you already did with VAGCOM anyway.) Theere is no guarantee that a dealership will actually FIX anything... their main job is to make $$. They will gladly charge you for labor to change parts and charge you for the parts too. (irreguardless if they actually fix anything)

    I looked up "P0411" it comes out as "Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected" (but you already knew that)

    "P0411" also is VAG code "16795"

    Soooo you need to first understand what this errorcode is telling you... then you can begin to troubleshoot.
  • dwsjpsdwsjps Posts: 3
    The check engine light came on. Took it to the dealer who ran the diagnostic. HE said it needed a new catalytic converter. With only 82k miles this bothers me. I drove it off and said i need to think about it. the light went out for a while then came back on. Makes me wonder if I should pay the $830 the VW dealer is asking. HAs anyone had a problem like this or have ay advice? It's a 2001 2.0 Jetta.
  • mfb1mfb1 Posts: 1
    New to the board, please go easy on me...

    I have a 2000 VW Jetta GLS, 4 cylinder, 2.0 with 79,500 miles on it. Recently, I've discovered a strange problem with the car...

    The morning start (cold start) idles extremely low and sometimes dies on me. Once I get the car running, take it for a drive, the start/idle problems disappear for the rest of the day. Like a ghost, they're gone (until the next morning). I've taken it to just about every shop I can (besides the dealership) who I just don't trust. Nobody can explain it. I've replaced the fuel filter, checked the platinum spark plugs, nothing seems to cure it...

    Anybody have any idea what's causing this?

    Thanks in advance. Great site, great people. :)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    On your 2001, the Catalytic converter (and all the other emmissions equipment) are covered by the "Federal Emmissions Warantee" which basically states that the MANUFACTURER must cover all emmissions equipment for 10 years and 100,000 miles. (Different model years have different coverage thru the "Federal Emmissions Warantee")

    Read the "Federal Emmissions Warantee" booklet which came with your car when you purchased it.

    I believe the emissions warranty is part of the federal Clean Air Act, so the dealer shouldn't be able to duck out of honoring that part of the warranty.

    Basically, the Feds are the ones that mandated that the automobile manufacturers meet the clean air act... and their products must meet the standards over the life of the vehicle. (not just when it leaves the factory) If a vehicle DOES NOT meet emmissions standards... it is the MANUFACTURER that is responsable to pay for failed emmissions components (ie... catalytic converter)
  • I had similar problems with a 2001 1.8T very soon after I bought it (~20k miles) they did the converter (no cost).
    the engine lite went off for about 3 weeks then came back.
    I didn't note any problems after the light went on. Gas milage
    was consistant with that before the light went on. I drove it for 2 years until it was time to inspect. I took it to a
    reputable guy I know. The code (I don't remember) but he said
    the code indicated a rich mixture but because it was running
    GREAT he didn't want to do anything other than blow some air
    down the throttle body. Light went off for about 6 months.
    When I came back on, I decided to try the same thing only I did notice a buildup around the butterfly. I cleaned it up with some starting fluid and a tooth brush and the light went off. So what I'm saying here is check out what it looks like around the butterfly. If your not getting the right amount of air intake, the computer thinks there's too much fuel.
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