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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    Thanks for responding. My son't Jetta ended up being a bad starter and was strong 98% of the time. I paid $270 to an independent shop for taking apart and cleaning all electrical connection under steering wheel and under the battery tray. I had the mechanic have the car for about 8 days and drive it every day and on weekends. It never acted up fo him. he had read and cleared all the stored codes. They thought it was the fuel pump relay, but did not want to replace it unless they determined it was the problem.

    After I picked up the car, two weeks later, it acted up again. The mechanic that worked on it, came to my house and did all his tests and determined it was the starter. I replaced the started myself, $180 new with lifetime warranty from Napa. The car has been fine since then.

    Electrical problems are tough to diagnose and I am not worked up about spending $270 and not them finding the problem the first time.

    Joe
  • fws4fws4 Member Posts: 5
    My '00 Jetta simply shut down while driving and will not restart. Starter spins with strange noise, high pitched with a squeak when it stops. Replaced the timing belt and water pump - the timing belt was missing 6-8 inches worth of teeth. This did not fix the problem. The enging turns, maybe a little slowly - I can see the timing belt turn since I left off the upper cover for now. Same noise mentioned above. My next step would be the starter, but since the engine is turning...? Could the starter be 'weak' or binding, resulting in the noise? Also, the engine was about 1.5 quarts low on oil, a problem getting worse as mileage goes up (currently 190k miles), and I've had an antifreeze leak due to that wonderful Dexcool, but no sign of it in the oil. Any help appreciated.
  • robin52228robin52228 Member Posts: 11
    Thanx much!! I have my manual but guess I missed a lot of that. Draining the water from the filter every 5000 mi?!?!? OOOOpp!! Now I know!! I'm learning a lot here!!
  • robin52228robin52228 Member Posts: 11
    Awesome info, thanx!! :shades:
  • hhutchinshhutchins Member Posts: 1
    I am having this same issue with my 2000 Jetta V6. Does anyone have any suggestions?

    Re:My VW Jetta GLS (automatic) is giving me a new issue today. It started hesitating while the "Check Engine" light blinked continuously. As I was driving the car it would hesitate and would have a hard time accelerating and then at times it felt like it would finally shift into gear and would start driving normally again only to once again continue with the same pattern of hesitating, etc. When I would stop at a light it kept vibrating and hesitating. Do you all have any idea what issue I may be having?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    A blinking CEL is a sign of IMMENENT DAMAGE to some component of your drivetrain. (Like unburned fuel getting into the catalyst thus burning it to a crisp.)

    From your description of "vibrating and hesitating"...that sure sounds like one of the cylinders is not firing. A misfiring cylinder could send unburned fuel into the exhaust system.

    A CEL which is just "ON" is considerd OK to drive while a vehicle with a BLINKING CEL should not be driven.
  • bridgeatlbridgeatl Member Posts: 5
    Hi I have a 2001 Volkswagen Jetta with a 2.0 Engine. The check Engine light came on late last year....but after many tune ups, many mechanics found nothing wrong with the car. I got a reading from an Emissions Test that said my system was too lean....I've run an Octane Boost and am currently attempting to run a full tank of 93 Premium BP gas through my engine. The light is still on. Why needs to be done at this point. What has usually been the case for 2001 VW Jettas?
  • revmarketrevmarket Member Posts: 48
    My daughters ' 98 VW Jetta, will only shift if you let up off the gas. This goes for all gears. Once in gear it drives fine until the next gear up. All gears going down are found without any hesitation on the trans axle. Any help? Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    bpeebles is right, this needs attention right away. Being a VW, one is tempted to toss off the suggestion of checking the ignition coils, as these are always suspect on a VW and they would cause this symptom. The codes should be read to verify this.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd certainly start by checking the fluid level and if that's okay, have a transmission service done and see if that helps. Could be worn out internal seals, a sticking valve in the valve body, some kind of pressure issue....dunno without more testing.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If the light is on, there should be a code stored in the computer. Ask them to clear the light, then when it comes on again, read the code. Might be as simple as an 02 sensor.
  • bridgeatlbridgeatl Member Posts: 5
    ok...so I don't think it's the O2 sensor because today, I checked the spark plugs and they were all completely burned!!....I last time they were changed was in Fall 2007 I believe....maybe earlier..But it was definitely in spring or fall of 2007. After I did that...I reset the Check Engine light sensor and drove for about 50 miles. the light remained off....so things are getting there...but now I went back to the auto parts store to have them hook their code computer to my car. The Too lean and Catalyst issues are not showing up anymore....but now there is a "Fuel Injector problem in Cylinder 2". The Technician asked if I had just put gas in my car...I told him that I put Premium 93 BP gas +Octane Booster in my car. He Said that that shouldn't trigger the Fuel Injector Code, though. However..THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS STILL OFF!!!...So What do I need to do now?.....because I have a week left before I need to go back to the EMissions place to get my car retested for free before my tag expires. So Let me know ASAP!!! Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    So the light's off...why can't you just get tested now?

    What exactly did you mean your spark plugs were "burned"? What color were the tips? Brown and crusty? Black? Gray ash-like? Were they all the same condition?
  • bridgeatlbridgeatl Member Posts: 5
    Yeah, the plugs were a very dark brown and quite crusty. I believe it was time for them to be changed anyway....It had been about 60,000 miles since they were last changed. With it being an older model car...they probably should have been changed sooner. I'm going to just let the 93 premium fuel run through the system til Thursday to see how the check Engine Light is doing and to clean out the fuel system as much as i can. then I'll take it back to the emissions. Also, it's pretty cold in GA Right now....how much does temperature play in all of this, you think?....
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Before you do an emissions test, you should have been running the car HARD and HOT on the highway. You can also buy this "pass emissions" snake oil and some techs tell me it can work in certain cases. They (the snake oil maker) give you your money back if you fail, so why not?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I would put MONEY on the fact that your MAF (Mass AirFlow) sensor is failing. There was a "factory extended warantee" on your MAF because VW knew there was a problem with MAF.

    BOTH of my daughters 2001 VWs had their MAF replaced for free under this "extended warantee".

    Since I have a VagCom , I was able to diagnose their bad MAF. (running lean and/or rich)

    One way to help diagnose a bad MAF is to disconnect the electrical wire and drive the car. If it runs better, the MAF is definatly bad.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Sparkplugs which are "dark brown and crusty" are NOT considerd "burnt".

    A "burnt" sparkplug would be bright white on the tip because everything except the ceramic has burned off of it.

    A competnet mechanic can "read" sparkplugs and determine a lot about the condition of an engine. (fuel mixture, rings, valvestem seals, ignintion system, fuel grade...etc)

    Too bad there are not many COMPETENT mechanics around anymore.... many of them just hook computer to car and have little clue how to REALLY diagnose a problem. Also, many of them are paid based on HOW MANY PARTS THEY SELL and not by HOW MANY CARS THEY FIX.

    I have always wanted mechanics to be paid based on FIXING a problem... (not on TRYING to fix it) 8-)

    With that said - If all of your sparkplugs look about the same condition, this DOES NOT point to an ignition nor a mechanical problem and instead points to somthing IN COMMON to all of the cylinders. (MAF sensor, O2 sensor...etc.)
  • bridgeatlbridgeatl Member Posts: 5
    Hey Thanks!!...I will look into that tomorrow. But I have the manual here and there are apparently two MAF sensors: LOW INPUT and HIGH INPUT

    Which one?....and how could you tell?....is there a separate electric wire for both of them?

    And What do you mean, "If it runs better..."? Because the car runs fine....it's smooth and shifts consistently for the most part...but the Auto Parts Store Computer Reading was giving the Too Lean/Fuel Injector problem reading.....so how would I do that?.....would I run it without the sensor and see if the Auto Parts store Computer give the All systems Pass Reading (or whatever the technical term for all systems pass)?....Would the computer show the MAF sensor as "CANNOT BE READ" if I disconnect it?....Let me know....thanks....I seriously think this might be the problem.
  • bridgeatlbridgeatl Member Posts: 5
    Yeah...I will look into the MAF Sensor tomorrow....but if the spark plugs weren't bad....then why has the Check Engine Light gone off and STAYED OFF?....That's what baffled me.....even though the reading on the Auto Parts Store Machine said Fuel Injector problem. I thought long and hard about taking my Jetta to a VW dealer...but it would have been $106 just for a further examination and possible dianosis. I just wasn't sure I was up for that...what with being a College Student and all lol
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Once again, any diagnostic machine is only as good as the person using it. People are throwing parts at your car and hoping that one sticks, sounds like. Not being there, I can't start a "diagnostic tree", but basically such a "tree" is a system of logic wherein the...ahem...technician tests THIS, and if not THIS, then he/she goes to THAT....and if not THAT...and so on, starting from most likely to least likely based on the initial codes from the machine. Each THIS or THAT has a value to be read, or a function to be tested, to eliminate it or accuse it of the crime.

    So what i'm saying is that a code that says something like "misfire" or "bad injector" could be caused by many things, and the idea is not to replace all those things at once and then say "see, I solved it" (at the owner's great expense).
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    the idea is not to replace all those things at once and then say "see, I solved it" (at the owner's great expense).

    But most of us are happier paying for new parts to be installed, than we are paying diagnostic charges, as in:

    it would have been $106 just for a further examination and possible dianosis. I just wasn't sure I was up for that
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The thing to do in that case is to work it out so that the diagnostic charges are subject to cancellation if the diagnosis proves to be incorrect.

    I'm certainly not going to pay for a wrong diagnosis. I can do that myself :P
  • freeantelopefreeantelope Member Posts: 5
    I am having power loss on my 1999.5 Jetta TDI.

    The whole story is important here probably. Head needed rebuilding, has new camshaft, timing belt, tensioners waterpump since it was all open. I also had the turbo actuator valve replaced (the bladder gizmo behind the engine). Right after that the turbo worked great, car ran like a dream for about a weak. I then noticed when the turbo would spool when at high RPMs that it would skip and then plop into limp mode. It has gotten progressively worse so that now it will drop off almost from the first acceleration in first gear. It will usually fix when the key is cycled.

    when I run the codes I get P0101 an P1550 (regular handheld jobby), and under the the Vag-Com there are also codes for the rear ABS sensors.

    So far to fix this issue I have replaced the Turbo Solenoid (up by the windshield with the hoses going to it), I have replaced the MAF....I have taken apart the hoses going to the air filter (all clear). I have visually inspected the vacuum hoses and though a little frayed don't see any breaks. The air filter is relatively new.

    The connector plug (that plugs into the MAF) is a replacement plug so it leads me to believe someone looked at replacing that before I came onto the scene. I am thinking I should check to make sure that is wired well...but what else should I try. Any advice, happen to anyone else? I am reaching the end of my wits thinking about it....need some things to check so I feel like I am sniffing out the problem....give me your best shot!

    Oh something else you should know. The engine light doesn't work it was somehow disconnected or blown, I wager disconnected so they could sell the car.
  • jetta603jetta603 Member Posts: 1
    Prior to my car accident, I did not experience any issues with my car. A almost month after the accident, my coolant light came on. I couldn't even open the hood after the accident. I later got it to open and realized that the coolant tank was empty. Then I thought to myself I haven't heard my fans turn on in a while. Sure enough, the fans weren't turning on. I got my crappy insurance company to come pick up the vehicle and take it to one of the "approved" shops. A month later I pick up my car. I didn't like how they fixed my body kit, but I could deal with that sorta. 50miles down the road, my coolant light came back on. I looked and it was BONE dry. The shop towed my car back and for the first time a mechanic check my car. They call me back saying that there is a pin hole in some hose that has allowed air to get in. They then said it wasn't accident related and that I had to pay to the diagnosis. Is this possible for a pin whole is a hose to cause my fans not to turn on and my coolant to leak out at the point of impact? I just know that my car was in perfect working order prior to the accident, no lights indicating problems and regular check ups. Can someone help me understand please...
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The key here is your mention of replacing (the bladder gizmo behind the engine). That may have been a bad idea.

    First of all, that thing is called the VNT actuator.

    The turbocharger is a VNT (Variable Nozzle Turbocharger) and the adjustment on the 'shaft' of the VNT actuator is tuned at the factory. Altering it can have devastating effects on your engine. (like overboost!)

    the code P1550 you are getting is pointing directly at that as the problem ( http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/17958/P1550/005456 )

    Essentually, code P1550 is telling you that the computer senses a problem with the VNT actuator or its control piping. Also check your N75 valve.

    Here is a website that has excellent photos of the inner-workings of your VNT... pay close attention to the very last moving photo which shows how the VNT vanes move.
  • yoshomeyyoshomey Member Posts: 2
    have a '94 just got it (comuter car) very clean - the dang alarm is sounding when the batt is connected
    prior owner lost the master key and I had one made (not by VW) the barrel on the drivers door is broken but still cant silence the alarm even when actuating the door lock with a screwdriver!!
    and the key will not actuate the passenger side door! it DOES operate the ignition but with the alarm engaged, the ignition is locked out -- any clues?? or will a new master key being made fix this? thanks in advance for any suggestions!
    Joe
  • freeantelopefreeantelope Member Posts: 5
    OK so I looked at the VNT site you gave me, that helped me understand how it works. One of the techs at a diesel fuel system here in Bangor replaced it for me, and it didn't work well....he then found out the exact specs to set it at and when he did that, it worked great, for a week..and then this issue started happening. I have ordered new hosing for the vaccum lines in desperation...I have replaced the MAF since, aftermarket, and checked the MAF connector using a multimeter (14 volts to pin 2, and 5 volts to pin 4)...so I think the connector is working fine. I also just ordered my VAG-Com system and bentley manual yesterday, should be here by the weekend.

    Do you know the specs the VNT actuator should be set at for a 1999.5 TDI (new body style I think thats called MK4)?

    I had to replace it (it was rusted out and didn't move at all from the previous owner).

    Thanks for your efforts
    Jason
  • myfirstvwmyfirstvw Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2004 Jetta GLS....recently the floor on the driver side, front and back, is soaking wet - mat included. They've been there for about 2 weeks and show no signs of drying - I do live in the Pacific NW so its wet here a lot but the floor was flooded weeks before the rain really started. I can find no leak/hole etc. explanation for it and when I took it to a service station (not the crooked, dishonest, ripoff dealership) they wouldn't even look at it because it was on the driver side and it was just water on the floor. Apparently I'm supposed to contact the Water Doc but can't seem to find such business (in Kirkland, WA).

    Any thoughts or suggestions or similar experiences would be greatly appreciated, a door seal possibly?? I lost my job about 8 months ago so I'd like to avoid a giant repair bill if possible (or a giant bill just to look at it and tell me its nothing).
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I see you are in Maine... were you aware that a highly-rated TDI mechanic is in Maine? Herm Pasker is in Richmond Maine.
    I have even considerd driving from Vermont to see Herm for a TimingBelt change.

    You may consider at least calling and chatting with him about your TDI problems.

    You can find Herm and other TDI mechanics in this list
  • yoshomeyyoshomey Member Posts: 2
    well -- the first thing that I would do is to have someone sit in the passenger seat and with all windows / doors closed observe when you hit the car with a hose --
    spray along the front cowling, door seal and window for a few min to see if there is a sign of where the leak is coming from
    also just a thought -- have you noticed if the water is sweet smelling ???? this is a sign of coolant leakage -- just a thought and hope this helps a tad!
    Joe
  • microjmicroj Member Posts: 10
    I had an 89 golf that did the same thing. After weeks of caulking and sealing all possible leaks with no results, I figured out what it was. On the upper left and right corners under the hood up by where the window meets the chasis are two drains that were clogged with leaves. once I cleaned them out water was able to drain properly and the water in the car dried up within a few days. So, lift up the hood and take a look up by your windsheild and see if there are drains there that might be blocked. I'm not sure if its the same for 04 jetta's but it's worth a look and it wont cost you anything!!
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    Does anyone know how to slow down the oil consumption of this engine? The engine uses about a quart every 700 miles. The car has 91K miles and ir runs great. There is zero oil leak and there is no smoke out of tail pipe at any time.

    Is there any special product or oil to use? I have been using 5-30W name brand oil.

    Thanks,
    Joe
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You are either burning it or leaking it, there's no other way, so there is probably blue smoke that you can't see.

    You might want to have a cylinder leakdown test done to see what the problem is. If it's valve guides you may wish to consider getting that fixed. At a quart every 700 miles, you are starting to put stress on your catalytic converter.

    There's nothing in a can that cuts oil burning for more than ten minutes. You can gunk it up in there but that does more harm than good. If you are in a mild climate you can switch to a heavier oil, sure, like a 10W-40 or 20W-50, and see if that matters. I kinda doubt it but you never know. Or you could even run a straight weight oil if you can find one that meets your engine's specifications. But that could be hell in winter.

    Anyway, get a cylinder leakdown test done and then at least you can end the speculation about where exactly the problem is, in the engine.
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    I typed this up somewhere before but I can't find where in the world I typed it...

    Anywho, I'm trying to find a forum with people that actually owns the MKIV(99.5-2005) Jetta and actually chime in before a year passes.

    Does anyone know which models have or should have the rear cupholders? They are located under the rear coin holder thing. That small rectangular square is similar to the fronts and when pushed, a retractable cup holder comes out.

    While I'm at it, does anyone know if its available for purchase?

    :) Thanks in Advance :)
    -Cj
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    VW changed that interiour stuff so often that I cannot tell you specific years.

    If I were looking for that kind of item, I would visit several scrapyards and poke around the old VWs.... I often find this kind of stuff and they are GLAD to get $5 for it. (because there is not a big market for it)
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    I know. I went to a dealership that had 7 MKiV available! Some 99s had it, The 2000 GLX had it, but his 1999 GLS VR6 did not. The 2001 GLS 2.0 I was very interested in did not, but the 2002 Wolfsburg did...

    Unfortunately, the armrest in that GLS I looked at needed to be fixed/replaced and the dealership pledged to fix it, among other minor things, before the car is purchased. Maybe he'll get the one with the rear cupholder.

    The minor issues that car has/had is bubbling tinted windows (replaced), sunroof sunshade appeared to have ketchup on it that was tried to get cleaned but used some cleaning agent that also didn't work. He was replacing it on my last visit. Yes the Dealer does his own repairs on the cars he sells which is favorable and unfavorable. My aunt bought an Altima from them and has had ZERO problems, but this is a VW we're dealing with here... He is selling the 2001 Jetta GLS 2.0 w/ Leather package, heated seats, sunroof, &~113k miles for a negotiable $6,000. Ok with me.

    My biggest drawbacks with the Jetta is ALL THOSE DARNED CHANGES!! I just know I want the 6airbags(2 Front, 2 Seat Side, 2 Side Curtains) the 2001 model brought. I'd like the 1.8T but don't want to deal with sludge problems. I like the VR6, but only 2002 and newer when the MPG changed from 17/23 to 19/28 but those are too $$$. I'd like the 5MT but I live in an area with high traffic so its discouraging...

    Do your daughters still have the Beetle and Golf (I was reading some posts from 2002) and whats your opinion on them?

    -Cj
  • harvkharvk Member Posts: 2
    make sure the air conditioner hose from the condenser is draining thru the floorboard or firewall. also, if you have a sun roof make sure the drain holes are clear.

    good luck
  • foxrofoxro Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 VW Jetta GL, standard 2.0. Car began to be hard to start, then died. Repair shop told me it was fuel system rerelated. I replaced fuel filter, car started, ran fine for a few days then died again. Replaced fuel pump, and fuel pump relay, and fuel pressure regulator, still will not start. Engine cranks, there is spark, fuel is reaching fuel rail, but will not start. I am at wits end, this car has been such a constant problem, any help would be great, thanks.
  • revmarketrevmarket Member Posts: 48
    Again try to see if the Ignition Coil is bad. Well known item to fail.
    Better to use a part from VW parts dept. Since after market ones like from Autozone (where I work) seem to not be up to specs to handle the load a VW puts on the part.
  • revmarketrevmarket Member Posts: 48
    have a '94 just got it (comuter car) very clean - the dang alarm is sounding when the batt is connected
    prior owner lost the master key and I had one made (not by VW) the barrel on the drivers door is broken but still cant silence the alarm even when actuating the door lock with a screwdriver!!
    and the key will not actuate the passenger side door! it DOES operate the ignition but with the alarm engaged, the ignition is locked out -- any clues?? or will a new master key being made fix this? thanks in advance for any suggestions!
    Joe

    Did you get the new master key?
    This is the first thing you should do so you have the right part.
    After that you should make sure you have the code for the radio to reset the alarm.
    Get it from the dealer and pay a hefty price.
    Otherwise put an after market radio in, but watch the extra wire that may be there to tell when oil changes need to be made. It might interfere with the OBDII getting codes at a later time. It may ned to be cut and covered.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Yes - my daughters each still have their 2001 Golf / NewBeetle. Both vehicles have needed brakes/rotors... but that is not unexpected.

    My one daughter really drives her car hard (the rough roads dont help) and her 2001 Gulf has needed some suspension work (springs and various rubber bushings) Reciently the flexpipe between engine and cat broke at 100,0010 miles. Although the warantee is really for 100,000 miles, the dealership covered all except $23.

    The latch on the armrest cover has broken one every single VW we own.... fortunately, replacment latch is about $10 and easy to replace in the driveway.

    This past summer with my 2003 Jetta, both front fenders started to rust. VW honored their 12Year/UnlimitedMileage corrosion warantee and replaced both front fenders.

    Overall, I know if any of us were looking for another car we would, without question, look for another VW.
  • harvkharvk Member Posts: 2
    i read what you have replaced an still no fuel to fuel rack. reverse engineer. disconnect fuel line from fuel rack getting gas? if not keep going back until you get gas and then replace one part at a time till gas gets to fuel rack. if get gas at point where fuel line goes into the fuel rack then it could be the computer or injectors

    good luck

    harvey
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    My son's Jetta with 93K miles was acting up by temp gage going up and over heating. The fans were running, the coolant tank was at full level. I decided to change the thermostat and the coolant at the same time.

    It is amazing the VW dealer wanted $30 for a gallon of coolant. I bought Mercedes coolant from MB dealer for $18/gal for my E430. I don't know how VW justifies charging $30 for coolant. I ended up buying $9/gal Prestone that you can mix and use for all car brands. I question these car manufacturers coming up with their own coolant and ripping off their customers.

    Removing the thermostat housing was a nightmare. The lower bolt has the alternator right in front of it with no room to reach it, it took me hours with tools I had to rig somehthing up to get to it .

    I think VW's 4 cylinders are much more complicated to ge to simple maintenance items than some V-6 or V-8 engines. I have never seen intake manifold blocking spark plug access on a four cylider engine before.

    Joe
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    To address the cars' issues, it might be better to find someone with a VAG.com who can hook it up and trouble shoot or bring it to an independent VW vendor or in the worst case, bring it to the VW dealer. It will be throwing codes.

    Actually 30 for a gal is not bad given most of the other than dealer vendors sell a gal @ 25 per.

    This might not apply to the 2.0 engine, but the oem owners manual on the TDI engine specifies and requires G12. It is truly a lifetime coolant; unless of course, you have (a source of) contamination issues( head gasket leak etc) .

    I only replaced a portion of of my G12 (way less than a bottle of 1.5L, as you dilute 70% G12 + 30 % distilled water) when I had the 100k miles interval- TB/WP changed; as the container used for the G12 anti freeze catch proceedure was used for other peoples G12. (didn't want to contaminate mine with others and vice versa) If I had brought my own catch container, I would have reused MY old G12. So basically I made the decision to top it (@ the proper dilution rate).

    So if the 2.0 engine oem owners manual specifies G12 it is indeed a HUGE mistake to NOT use it. So if you did use other than the recommended anti freeze you probably have contaminated the existing recommended antifreeze.

    As an after thought, the time to question these things is when you do NOT own it.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I don't know how VW justifies charging $30 for coolant. I ended up buying $9/gal Prestone that you can mix and use for all car brands.

    I don't understand why you would want to risk using the wrong coolant in order to save a lousy $21. I'd don't think I would trust Prestone to know what is safe and best for a VW engine or what is safe to mix with G12.

    In addition, if there was no actual need to change the coolant in the first place, how is VW ripping you off? Instead by installing G12 in their new cars, they eliminate the need to pay for routine coolant changes.
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    My issue is every body having unique coolant for their engine...Exactly what is so unique about VW engine????? It is like saying use only VW oil filter. Over some 35 years of owning some 25 different cars/trucks/vans/SUVs never ever used manufacturer oil filter or coolant with the exception of the MB coolant. I figured $18 for MB vs. $11 for Prestone, I went with MB.

    I have had ZERO issues with coolant or engines. Are you still insisting on VW coolant? I have issue with them charging $30. What is in it that costs $30/gallon?

    VW's plastic water pump impeller breaks whether you have $30 or $9 coolant. I am not cheap but I do have problem with rip off prices.

    Joe
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The G12 antigreeze is a LIFETIME item that never has to be changed. It is a HOAT (Hybred Organic Acid Technology) formula. You should have SAVED what came out and put it back into the engine.

    Mixing ANYTHING else with HOAT has been known to cause a gell to form and may clog the small passagaways of the cooling system. You are gambling with making the engine into a boat-anchor by saving a few bucks.

    BTW: You can get G12 antifreeze from any diecent autoparts store. Do you really think that VW *makes* antifreeze..... I hope not.

    I use Pentosin which is the same company that makes the VW-labelled stuff.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You said ==> "VW's plastic water pump impeller breaks whether you have $30 or $9 coolant. I am not cheap but I do have problem with rip off prices."

    You could have installed the BRASS IMPELLER waterpump like I did.

    I hope you also replaced the TIMINGBELT, TENSIONOR, and verious pullies on that engine while you had it torn apart.... Otherwise you will be in there again real soon because the TimingBelt is PAST due for a change at that milage.

    HERE IS MY ISSUE WITH YOUR COMMENTS
    If you had simply followed the VW recommendations and REPLACED the TimingBelt, waterpump, tensioner and pullies at the recommended 80K miles, you would have NEVER EVER had this problem to begin with. It is your own fault that you arrived at this point.

    Also - The intake manifold is NOT blocking your access to the sparkplugs. The inner 2 plugs are angled in such a way that you can easilly replace them with a wobbleHead socket extension.

    I could go on and discuss why the intake runners on the VW 2.0L engine are the way they are... but you do not seem to be willing to LEARN about VWs and instead want to complain.

    HINT: Long intake runners create a wider torque-range by creating a ram-effect into the cylinders. This is one reason that VW engines are sooo easy to drive with a clutch because there is torque available right from idle.

    I owned a Honda Civic once... even after 120,000 miles I was still stalling it becasue it had no torque at all unless I spun the engine over 2000 RPM. It was NOT very driver-friendly in that reguard. Also, the oil-filter was IMPOSSIBLE to access unless the car was on a hydrolic lift.

    Conversly, VWs have always put the oil-filter right in the front where they are easy to access. I can change the oil in about 15 minutes by just opening the hood and sucking out the oil with oil-sucker.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    "It is like saying use only VW oil filter. Over some 35 years of owning some 25 different cars/trucks/vans/SUVs never ever used manufacturer oil filter or coolant "...

    That is fine, but in the case of the VW oem badged oil filter/coolant why would you rather NOT use it or Mann or Mahle? We have already mentioned the LIFETIME G12 made by Pentosin, etc, vs change every (whatever) mileage) for the Prestone. OEM Bosch, Mann or Mahle made oil filters are actually specified for 30,000 miles oil change intervals. In my case I run 20,000 mile OCI's and with the advent of ULSD actually do 25,000 miles OCI's. .
  • xlaurax362xlaurax362 Member Posts: 3
    This ended up being a fuel sensor that had gone bad. With only $40 I resolved the problem =)
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